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Buying an early build in the fall, but some issues with these cars are worrying me...
Forgive me and feel free to delete if this is an ignorant post, but here goes anyways.
I’m looking to buy a (preferably ‘14) manual BRZ in the late fall that will probably have about 50-70k miles on it in my $13-14k (writing a check, not financing) budget. First sports car, first “fun” daily car I’m able to buy for myself. Do I need to be worried about the valve spring issues and the TOB stuff with buying a ‘14 or possibly ‘13 car? I’d rather not buy the thing and then immediately have to dump cash (besides things you’d normally freshen up on a used car) in it to make sure a bad TOB doesn’t take the trans and/or whatever issues the valve spring stuff causes. My perception is that this is a pretty reliable, easy to work on, and fun sports car for the money. I’m just easily frazzled I suppose... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
At that many miles and used, suggested is go buy a new clutch, new tob, New clutch fork and new pivot ball. The valve springs are not a big issue, you can ignore it.
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Thanks for the tip. I’m not very mechanically savvy, but I’m assuming the parts you listed are synonymous with what you’d usually replace when doing a clutch anyways? Figured I’d have to do that sooner than later Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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Well being a '13-14 chances are they are on the recall list.
No biggie, it's a free service just takes time. As far as what to look for, throw out bearing, maybe coil pack(s). That's about it. It is easy to work on.....besides the spark plugs but it can be done, just a huge pain in the ass. |
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Sounds good. Yeah if I can I’d probably rather buy a 70k mile car that just had the plug service done than a 50-60k ish one that’s going to need it, if I can. Otherwise, it’s a bullet to bite I suppose Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
The 14s are not subject to the current recall and don't seem to be plagued with the same issues as the 13s. Pretty much the standard 60K maintenance package will be all you need. The TOB issue is hit and mis right up to the 17s so it may be something to consider.
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I can count the stuffs that might go out after 60k miles + there are good amount of wear & tear items that will need to be replaced & wont be covered by warranty after that mileage. I would get a 30k mile one if you are serious, trust me, you are not saving money by buying a 50-70k one. No point in gambling..... thou buying a used twin is kind like a gamble... :cheers: or get a carmax one with unlimit mile warranty for x amount of years & make a youtube series. :D |
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If I can do it again I would get 100k mile warranty from dealer when I bought the car brand new, my timing chain cover starts to leak oil after 58k miles. After countless canyon run & 10 ish track/drift event.....ya :burnrubber::bonk: |
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I'd go for extended warranty because it doesn't take much to pay for itself UNLESS you are going to heavily mod it.
High pressure fuel pump alone is over $2k. Plus used, you never know what the last owner did with the car Get a PPI either way. Don't trust 1 word the dealership or salesman says. Most cars were garage kept and belonged to the manager OR owner of the car lot LOL |
Bought my 17 used with 4400 miles. Also bought the longest top tier $0 deductible National Warranty. I’m covered under factory warranties then the National until 100k and 1/1/2026.
I work on cars every day. Nothing worse than having to fix your own car. Drop it off at Subaru and pick it up on the way home. These cars seem to follow the same rules in Porsche land. Buy the newest lowest mileage car you can afford. You never know how many drift laps or donuts a used rwd car has been through. |
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I’m hoping that’s the case haha. Everyone else is making me think I’d be better off buying a used S2K or something. It’s surprising to me because I really haven’t heard of these cars having a whole lot of issues at all, being Toyotas and all Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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Seems like bigger issues some people are having may not necessarily be representative of the majority of cars. I figure I’ll be fine if I get a car that was well taken care of. I’m not tracking the car at all, just dailying Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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I think that only works with Land Rovers... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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This was more of what I would have expected from a car like this. Sounds like buying right is really what it comes down to Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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You can see by the dates on the TSBs that the 13s suffered the most as you would expect with a brand new platform and engine. https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21868 |
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I would inspect the car on a hoist with a mechanic if you can, check if there are oil on the underplate/header & anywhere around the engine. Rest are easy fix really. then pray for the rest.....like he didn't FI the car previously. :bonk: |
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For sure. I’ll be having a PPI done and having someone go with me as well Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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Dude you got raped. |
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The twins are much more Subaru than they are Toyota... so while they are generally pretty reliable, they aren’t exactly a Toyota Corolla. Buying any used car (particularly a sports car) is a gamble, so buy one that is still under warranty or put some money aside for potential repairs. |
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$2k still seems high, looks like $500ish new, $150 used. That’s a lot left over for labor. |
The engine is Subaru. The fuel system is Toyota.
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I have 120k miles and the following parts have failed.
Fuel pressure regulator (water in gas tank) - $100 Door lock actuators - $184 Third brake light - $40 Homelink mirror adapter - $10 HID bulb flickering - $60 Over 5 years I don’t consider this too bad. Luckily I don’t have the valve cover leak or the cam plate leak. I think a 2013 with a build date after 06/2013 will treat you nicely. |
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I think I paid $1000 for the warranty when I bought the car. The oil pump gear exploded at 65K miles, resulting in a $6800 engine replacement that I didn't have to pay for. The warranty more than paid for itself then. Now at 97K miles the timing cover was leaking about half a quart of oil onto the exhaust manifold between oil changes, stinking when I drove it and getting worse as time went on. I'm going to pick it up today, so I'm not sure what the cost for that would have been. Granted, I figure this is atypical for this car, as most seem to be pretty reliable. However, a warranty is insurance. I would have been fine paying for it for the peace of mind even if I hadn't had to use it. Twice. Quote:
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Second, this is not really a Toyota. It's not really a Subaru. It's something in between. So you really can't use one brand or the other as a benchmark for your expectations for this vehicle. Quote:
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I'd also still buy the warranty, even though I wouldn't expect to have to use it. |
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They sell extended warranties, push them quite aggressively actually, because they make a TON of money off of them. My 2013 has had zero issues so far. 78000 on the clock. Bringing it in for the valve spring issue..no charge to me. They even said they will change the plugs for me free of charge. Wasn't looking forward to that job. Hard to see the plugs let alone change them. lol |
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Simple fact is, extended warranties are backed by insurance companies, and they operate on the same principle as a casino, the odds are always in favor of the house. Just like any gambling, you are betting you'll have tons of problems and recover the cost of the warranty and possibly more, and they are betting you will have no problems and walk away with all the marbles. Well actually, all the marbles and then some because they most assuredly invested the money you gave them up front in something that paid some kind of dividend. There's nothing inherently dishonest, it's just the way all insurance works. They couldn't stay in business if they had more winners than losers. On the bright side there might be some benefit to buying an extended warranty besides just peace of mind. If you decide to sell the car before the warranty runs out, I believe many insurers will let you transfer the remainder of coverage to the new owner. This might enable you to sell the car a little easier and possibly for more money, depending of course on how much warranty is left and whether that buyer is willing to pay a little more for that extra "peace of mind". |
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My wife has had her 2013 BRZ Limited MT since summer of 2012 and just hit 40K miles on it. No major issues and have it scheduled to go in for the recall fix. The recall was very limited in scope and year. The only annoyance that she found is her clutch-safety-switch - she thinks the sensor might be on the way out or that there might be a slight gap either with the clutch travel and point of engagement with the sensor. She still has it under warranty, but if they don't diagnose it properly, she'll probably just fix it herself. She loathes push-button start cars now.
I have an 2013 FRS MT - got it a couple weeks before her and have about 46K miles. No problems other than people not knowing how to open up their car door properly without dinging the car next to them.:mad0260: My car is currently in the shop for the recall. We both put catback exhausts on them and tints - i have bigger wheels/rims and dropped it - she pretty much kept it stock. |
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