What have you guys done to relieve any vibrations inside your 86?
 

I'm researching all the potential vibration spots on the inside of my BRZ, it takes a beating on these terrible roads in Ottawa, Ontario (Yes, nation's capital can't afford to fix pot holes every 10m). What are some of the things you guys have done to eliminate any vibrations inside the car? Thank you in advance!

Well almost anything you do involves some sort of trade off but there are options.


The big three:


Sound and vibration Matting - Will reduce noise but to do right is a pile of work and adds weight.


16" Wheels - Have a deeper sidewall to absorb bumps better but will reduce handling in the corners.


Softer struts or coilovers - Same effects both good and bad as 16" wheels.

I realized most of the vibrations I was hearing were in the plastic interior panels... so I just removed them. Free weight savings. Increased road noise from my tires coming through from underneath though, but eh, now I don't hear any vibrations.

You might consider different tires.

Reducing the tire pressure a few pounds usually helps.


humfrz

Should mention my car isn't running completely stock, I've got 18" rims with 255/35 tires, barely lowered. My coilovers are a bit stiff though so I'll look into fixing that

https://www.parts-express.com/sonic-...12-4---268-046

add a layer directly on top of the metal in the inside of your car, then put everything back on top of it

1. Reducing tire pressure - sometimes even 1 psi will make an appreciable difference in noise and comfort

2. Bushings - surprisingly fitting rear subframe bushings from Whiteline made the ride more pliant and less crashy. The clunks went away as well. I gained a bit of noise but the good kind. In fact, after fitting all the trans/diff/subframe bushings and inserts, friends say the car sounds like it was tuned. But it's less clunky.

3. Knowing what causes them - sometimes it's your work ID badge in the door pocket that keeps rattling. Sometimes the passenger seat isn't fully clicked into position. Sometimes it's the seat belt buckle against the door. The rear seat back being clicked into position on only one side drove me crazy for months til I figured out that's what it was.

Other than that, no rattles really.

and you're blaming the ROADS - ;)

humfrz

If it's the vibration from the road, the only thing you can really do to affect that is the damping of the suspension, stiffness of the shock, and the tire that you're running on.

For me, I am running Tein Flex A (the one with hydraulic bump stop) at 15 clicks so it's super soft. The springs I believe are 6k, but anything about 6k is pretty stiff. Tune your suspension for max softness. For the tires, what is going to matter is the sidewall stiffness and tire pressure. You want a more passenger-like tire, I'm running Michelin Pilot Sport 4S @ 35 PSI and it's a little stiffer than I would like, but if I drop it below 35 PSI my MPG takes a 1-2 MPG hit if not more. You may want to try to drop your PSI to 32.

I'm currently trying to find a comfortable and quiet tire in 255/35 R18 However, most tires in that size are performance tires.

install loud ass exhaust so you don't hear vibrations anymore. lol. jk.. idk i kinda just deal with mine and enjoy my BOV noises.

18" rims are like running tires made of rubber bands. Not the best for rough roads.

https://i.imgflip.com/xhss9.jpg

get a louder exhaust, install a sub and empty your care cup

Living on the west side of Vancouver, I have my fair share of potholes around my house. Ironic, how houses in my area are all around $2M-$5M a pop, yet we have such shitty patchy roads. In contrast, east Vancouver has much nicer roads, repaved, but houses are averaging around $1M.

Anyways, I find it's much worse in the winter. I also find that a clean interior helps with NVH especially when you wipe stuff down with 303 aerospace wipes or armorall. the tradeoff is residue.

Oh, turning off the vibrator in the passenger seat also helps.

It's got a catted Magnaflow exhaust, the vibrations are loud from coming from inside the cockpit, probably the 3rd brake light vibrating against the rear window?

Well, Bubba says to stick a sock behind it - :D


humfrz

https://www.parts-express.com/sonic-...-ft-l--268-050

stick that between the brake light and the window

Thanks bro that's actually really helpful, appreciated!

Took the door panels off and covered the window switches in electrical tape (wish I had a photo but I don't). Also tapes together any loose wiring in the doors and re-sealed the weatherproofing plastic. I put Roxul insulation in my trunk where the spare tire was as a test, significantly lowered road noise from behind the driver's seat.

The window switches were the biggest to-do, I'd recommend the mod to anyone with electrical tape and a screwdriver

I tighten shit when it gets loose.

Yep, I've heard about your garage - I'll bet you do have the tool for the job - :D


humfrz

Who the bloody hell afford houses that cost that much money.... I must be in the wrong gig or doing something wrong :bonk:

This is what I have done for metro Detroit roads:

1. Anti-rust coating on the bottom. Helps a little, but still, helps. (Anti-rust foaming inside doors, etc., might help more though).
2. Put a spare wheel (usually a winter wheel during summer, or a summer wheel during winter) or some dead weight in the trunk. That way your TPMS won't light up while on aftermarket wheels either.

?
https://www.imodium.com/sites/imodiu...ension.png.jpg

In Vancouver?


http://wpmedia.calgaryherald.com/201...5&h=420&crop=1

#3 speaks to me. I lost my mind on a ride home thinking I had a front right endlink, tophat, or balljoint failing and it turned out to be a red bull can a passenger had left in the door.

Choosing parts that have a tiny bit of compliance make a big difference, like using OE or Group N Top hats instead of camber plates.

I found that doing the whiteline positive shift kit, and rear subframe bushings really helped with some of the rear end clunks, drivetrain shudder and wheel hop that was annoying and noisy.

I get a weird rattle/squeak from the top dash speaker panels. I believe its rubbing against the plastic a pillar cover, as it seems to stop if I put pressure on either panel. I wedged a ranger band that I cut in half in between the panels and it seems to have stopped it.

For those that don't know, ranger bands are just thick black rubber bands;
http://2rdrtx4bt29lo91s31mjhkji-wpen...rap-tool-5.jpg


I have the rear deck rattle (i think) but I haven't fixed it yet.


I don't mind minor vibrations or cabin noise so much, but rattles and squeaks for loose fitting panels or other things really bother me. Makes me feel like the car is falling apart.

I take it out and throw it in my closet. That where the rear seats, panels, spare tire, etc live.

My 2013 FR-S doesn't have, nor ever has, any squeaks or rattles (that I can hear at least - ;) ).

However, if it did, I would put someone behind the wheel to drive and I would go "hunting" with a spray can of silicone, a long, thin screwdriver and a roll of black electrical tape.


humfrz

legit

Quick update: Went to the local crafts store (Michael's where I live) and picked up some cushion foam. The rattle from the back comes from the 3rd brake light's mount.


Open your trunk, look inside the ceiling of it, directly in the middle is a hole that will show daylight, and a black wire heading up through it. Cut some blocks from the foam and stuff it all deep inside that little hole, there is yet to be a YouTube video showing this method, they usually tell you to put the foam in "any hole you see". The hole I mentioned is the root of the problem, zero rattle ladies and gentlemen.

I think I have the same rattle. Noticed it more with the seat down during this last road trip. Will check. Thanks!

I stripped my interior and did a full damping/noise reduction treatment (Google sound deadener showdown for guides). It definitely cleaned up my interior of any creaks, squeaks, and rattles. I'm completely satisfied in that respect BUT highway speed wind noise is still an issue for me(60+mph). I might need more melamine foam coverage in the headliner as I only had enough to cover a piece. If anyone has successfully tackled high speed noise that would be good info. Under 60mph in cabin noise is well controlled after treatment.


I bought the Flex A hoping for more comfort but at 11-12 clicks I thought there was significant body roll in the turns so I settled for 9 clicks. After only 2 months I feel like the suspension doesn't dampen as well as when new.

Let me know how it works!

Keep the rear seat backs up. A lot of noise comes through from the trunk area.

I turn the tunes up until the window buttons start vibrating then turn it down just a hair :)