The hell did the dealership do?
 

I took my FR-S into the local Toyota dealership for a 27k service (the last service on my ToyotaCare deal). Just wanted an oil change and a fluid check before the big 30k comes around. They also suggested a mass air sensor cleaning (?) and a de-carboning of the engine intake area (hmm...)

They also suggested a brake fluid flushing which I turned down, since I was going to install braided brake lines soon in the future.

When I got the car back, everything seemed okay. While I was driving, I noticed that when I came to a stop, if I pushed in the clutch with the shifter still in gear, the engine would slowly rev up to 2000 rpm, then slowly reduce to idle at 500. If I pushed the clutch in and put the shifter in neutral, the revs would simply go to idle without the odd climbing.

At first I thought it was something to do with the mass air sensor cleaning, but now I'm thinking they did some kind of software update to combat the famous "low idle" issue these 2013 models had. There's nothing in the receipt about a software update but maybe it was a Service Bulletin kind of thing. It almost seems like some kind of "rev match" feature.

I'm going to call the dealership to ask what the deal is, but I thought I'd ask here first. Any info would help.

Needless to say that's my last trip to the dealership for service, now that the ToyotaCare deal is over.

I doubt anything happened. I've always noticed my car revving/idling a little funny after every dealer visit but after a bit of a drive it goes back to normal. Always thought it was due to maybe the dealer disconnecting the battery and the ECU having to relearn..got a video clip? 2 k RPMs is a big jump..

I will make one.


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don't know about your specific situation. But I would unplug the battery then let the car idle for about 5 mins before touching the gas pedal

Oh, I wouldn't worry about it. The car is just giving you a sigh of relief that they didn't mess it up - :eyebulge:

If they messed with the MAF, your car's ECU is most likely just adjusting. I'd suggest you give it a couple hundred miles to settle down.

:)


humfrz

I agree with Tom, If they cleaned the maf sensor, I'd pull the battery lead. Fyi, when you do this it resets the ecu including the throttle position learning.. it will feel like dead peddle, this is normal, it'll fix itself.

imo next time if it aint broke dont fix it. maybe they used too much cleaner and it needs to burn off/dry off.

It is the MAF cleaner. Well documented symptoms. Also totally unrequired. Same as the "de-carboning of the engine intake". If you have carbon build up in your intake you have bigger issues!

I'd suggest you check the maintenance guide that came with your car. For my 2013 FR-S, the 30,000 mile maintenance is no big things.

But, your dealership may try to make big things out of it …. :eyebulge:


humfrz

Why did they do this? The FA20 in the FR-S/BRZ/86 doesn't have carbon build up issues like other Subaru direct injected engines, such as the FA20 in the 2015+ WRX. Our engines have port injection along with direct injection, which helps keep the intake ports and intake valves clean, so "de-carboning" shouldn't be necessary.

Not to mention that no mater what injection system they use there should be no combustion nor carbon build up in the intake.

All good points. Just goes to prove that dealerships RARELY suggest things that are actually needed for specific cars.

Just proves THAT dealership does. Not all are like that.

There shouldn't be, but on directed injected engines it's pretty tough to avoid unless you delete the EGR (if it has an external EGR valve and isn't done through camshaft timing like our engine) and install an air oil separator. The build up on the intake ports/valves in my friend's WRX wasn't exactly carbon. It was more of a thick, black, oily goop.

My dealer is excellent. YMMV.

I don't know about this specific car, but carbon build up on the intake valves on Audis and VWs is completely normal. Because of direct injection, no fuel runs over the intake valves to clean off the carbon build up. I'm a tech at an Audi dealership, and whenever we do a job that requires removing the intake manifold we almost always recommend a decarb. It can get pretty bad after maybe 100,000 km. I probably wouldn't have recommended it at 27,000 though.

Welcome to the gang - :clap:

Just for your information, as mentioned above, the FA20 engine is both direct and port injected, so the port injectors usually take care of most of any carbon that tries to buildup around the valves.

:thumbsup:


humfrz

Thanks! :thanks:

LOL
As Hum pointed out this should not be an issue with this engine.
As you pointed out even engines where it is an issue 27K miles is a ludicrous number to say it should be done. Hell, Granny's Impala that never see's over 30MPH could go longer than that.
As I pointed out if you have carboned up the intake on one of these engines you have bigger issues than build up to address.
As a few have pointed out this add on was a totally unnecessary up sell and the sort of stuff that gives all dealers a bad name whether they deserve it or not.

so was this issue resolved besides never going to a dealership for a tuneup

Apparently, it's related to the cleaner used on the MAF sensor. I'm waiting for it to clear itself, and it seems to have reduced slightly. When the engine warms up good, it still revs up when in gear and the clutch is pressed. If it doesn't stop by the weekend, I'll pull the battery cable and reset the ECU to see if that helps.

Good. I have 80k miles on my 2016. I recently had the plugs changed but only because I had to take my FRS in to get a new TOB. Yeah, i know the plugs and TOB are unrelated but I figured as long as the car was at the dealership, why not?

Only other maintenance has been oil and filter changes every 4k miles. Oh, and I changed the air filter once.