Uneven camber with the camber plates maxed.
 

Just as the title says I have bc coilovers and both camber plates are maxed out. But it’s very uneven. I have -3.2 on the passenger side and -4 on the driver side. Any idea why. I’ve tried doing my own research it couldn’t find anything. I got an alignment but one camber plate is still maxed out while the other side(driver side) has been adjusted to match the -3.2 degrees of camber on the passenger side

This isn't out of the ordinary. Each chassis will have its own native alignment due to manufacturing as well as driving the car such as, the positioning of the sub frame, the toe alignment, and any flex or settling of the frame itself. Its hard to manufacture an absolutely perfect car and keep it perfect throughout its life. My camber in the front is maxed out at -1.3 with camber bolts even though one side is capable of -1.8 with 0 toe.

Sorry but you are technically maxed at the least common measurement between the two sides.

My car also pulls to the left when accelerating and once off the gas it shoots back to the right and straightens out. This is after my alignment.

Full alignment specs (or picture of the print out)? Who installed the suspension, is everything properly installed and torqued?

I have the specs at home I’ll get pic when I get off work. But I installed the coils my self and made sure everything was done correctly. Everything felt perfect when I was on stock wheels. But once I got new wheels and tires and an alignment it been driving terrible. I have 18x9.5 et+22 paired with 225/40r18

This sounds like either low pressure on one of the rear tires or a bad rear tire.

- I wouldn't ever guide when aligning, just by position on camberplates. There are some variances between cars/parts, slack of mounts/bushings and as result more then possible differences between what is "max", "min" or specific position in between.
- Do camber on camber rig, where you see what alignment really is and dial to what you want to get to get those measurements right/even, ignoring, "what's measured on plates".
- Camber may naturally increase also from extra (driver's) weight. Usually way less then 0.8dg for you though, imho more like 0.1-0.2dg. But if one is anal about that, one may ask suspension techs to dial alignment while one sits in car.
- IF you have checked that tire pressures are even, and IF camber is even (as per alignment rig results, not by "maxed out") i'd suspect toe being out of whack / not even side to side or toe not properly set to track straight front vs rear. Worth remembering that on our cars changing toe changes also camber and vice versa, so hopefully they didn't just dial toe, and then separately camber, ignoring changes to toe from camber adjustment. But first thing i'd check (simplest/quickest/for free) would be tire pressures and if tires are mounted right (if tires are directional) on wheels.
- btw, do you track car? -3, -4 .. camber sounds way too much for car IF that is only daily driven (0 to -1.5dg for camber sounds more reasonable for DD use). One may have more grip when cornering very hard and fast (if on public roads, then usually that means one most of a time going way above speed limits / hooning / endangering self & others) with more static camber, but this is too much for just daily driven. As side ill-effects for too much camber for driving type there might be less grip in wet/worse grip in straight line/car more tending to follow longitudinal road groves, and uneven tire wear (inside edge).

Get camber bolts and balance the alignment that way instead of being uneven on the camber plates

I recommend setting your camber plates equally, and fine tuning with a camber bolt. This may help reduce your pull.

- Andrew

Beat me to it.

- Andrew

Did you leave it at -3.2 R and -4.0 L? Maybe that's why your car is pulling.

Camber front left is -3.1. Front right is -3.2
Front left caster 6.1 front right caster 6.2
Front left toe. .02 front right toe .01
Back left camber -3.5 back right camber -3.4
Back left toe .10 back right toe .05

Good advice, but if you notice he is on 18x9.5" wheels with 225 section width tires. Sounds like this guy is focused on going full stretched tire tilty boi, so I don't think he is worried about having things like traction or even tire wear or endangering others on public roads.

They certainly should have done better job on with toe, especially in rear. No wonder car with flooring or releasing gas turns a bit. Think of toe as presteered wheels to (toe-in) or from (toe-out, negative values) from centerline. Giving some beans, mass transfer to back, where one of wheels is more turned. Total track also doesn't look to me straight.
But wait, initially you mentioned -4 & -3.2 front camber. Did you dialed in more camber by yourself after this? Great chance to make alignment even worse, if done not on rig or with some extra measurement tools to show result of changes.

I briefly had tires on the rear of the car that were the same make and model, but one had a good bit more tread. The mismatched circumference made the same thing happen to me.

-4 camber was before the alignment

Goin for a slight stretch and a nice stance

Better leave out stretch and stance from this, probably more alignment related, thread? "slight" & "nice" differs a bit for ones that care how car handles/performs over arguable looks.

I don’t track my car. My car is just really low and I need to have some camber to fit the wheels

Yeah this is more of an alignment thread

Hey, the guy set you up for a clockwise circle track. Stand on the gas and up the track you go, take your foot off and dive for the corner. {Although usually done with stagger.}

Maybe something that would be easier next time around would be to get wheels that fit. So your alignment isn't compromised. Not that I'm a big stance person or anything but you don't necessarily need camber for a nice stance.

I'm legit trying not to be rude, but if you didn't want to compromise how your car drives you should probably reconsider the path you're headed down. You might try starting at Will this fit? (width, offset, and tire size Qs) to get a different set of wheels and tires that properly fit and then go get a proper street-oriented alignment.



If your objective is a stanced out appearance with stretch tires on big wheels, then I guess by all means go for it, but you need to understand your car is going to drive like shit like that. Your issue in this thread can be corrected by backing off from max camber on your plates and getting your toe adjusted out by someone that knows how to do an alignment, but even then on the street you're going to have a rougher time driving.


At this point, the stance scene isn't even unique, it just makes you look dumb.

What model/brand of 225/40/18 do you have on your 18x9.5 +22 wheels?


Besides BC coils: what other suspension parts do you have installed?


I am not a Suspension GURU, but from what I understand the more you lower the car, the more parts are needed to keep it driving ok. Like adjustable endlinks for swaybars, adjustable rear toe arms, adjustable trailing arms etc...

Bridge stone. Everything else is stock suspension wise besides the coilovers

I like how it looks. But if the alignment is good enough the should be able to drive straight. I understand the ride quality isn’t gonna be the same.

I don't know how low you actually are, but I am guessing that you don't have much shock travel left. At this point the OEM suspension is past the point in its height usage range to function properly.

I can’t seem upload a picture but if you want you can check my instagram @fr_steez

For a street car, you it wrong

Wrong rims
Wrong tyres
Wrong alignment

Your car now handles worse than OEM

Your braking is now worse than OEM

Read more

Your doing it wrong, unless of course all you care about is how "you think" your car looks best hard parked.

The alignment is not good enough, you need to balance your toe left to right or it will continue to pull to one side.

I’m gonna get back on the alignment rack soon

That alignment is good enough. 0.1° toe in on one rear and 0.05° toe-in on the other side is really not a big deal.

If car pulls to one side on acceleration, *and* the rear tires are at the same appropriate pressure, *and* same make model and at similar wear level, the thing to do is swap rear tires left to right and see if the pull changes direction. If so, bad tire.

Well it's not uncommon that camber plates need to be in different positions to get equal camber on alignment rig but yours seem to have quite a big difference. Are both of your coilovers set to the same lenght ?

Hello MrSkubi

The coilovers are set at the same ride height.

Did your alignment guy max out the camber bolts before adjusting the camber plates?

Hello,

There is no camber bolt on the stock suspensions of a scion frs and i installed the coilovers with the oem bolt so there is no lower adjustement for the camber. The only way to ajdust camber in my cas is by moving the top camber plate.

BC coilover has a slotted upper bolt hole for camber adjustment with factory bolts.

https://86speed.com/images/thumbs/w_...w-frsbrz86.png

Seems like any car I've done suspension to in the past decade.
Camber plate are for quick eye camber adjustment NOT for centering the car.
Most of the cars that I've dealt with were as easy as fixing the camber at the bottom of the strut. Then of course, 2 of the cars needed the entire subframe shifted.