RCE yellows springs vs ST coilovers
 

I have a used 2013 frs with 60k miles on the odo. I am looking to lower the suspension just a bit to give it a bit better stance once I get my new wheels. I am wondering if I should byte the bullet and pick up some decent coils vs changing the springs. STs are about 850$ brand new on sale at FT86 speed factory atm. I am just worried the stock strut will go sooner rather then later... And then I will need more work to replace the struts

at 60k miles I might opt for a coilover. CSG makes a great Tein coilover!

at 1400$ it's a bit out of my range. My car is mostly daily driver, back roads and a few hpde per year.

@Racecomp Engineering should have some interesting thoughts on this topic.

I welcome inputs. If there is a better combo out there I want to know about it.

IMO, spring for new shocks at a minimum. I'd try to find some 2017+ used ones if you can, they're a good deal and better than the earlier shocks.

I wouldn't buy coilovers for your usage, good stock shocks (or bilsteins) and springs sound like a good combination for you.

Yeah I'd take ST coilovers (with a proper set up) over RCE Yellows with old and tired 2013 shocks.

If you can find some new and low mileage 2016 or 2017+ shocks, go for it with the Yellows. The ST coilovers are a fine choice for a basic street set up but with any coilover you'll have to pay a little more attention to set up.

- Andrew

The plain Tein Flex Z can be found for cheaper than the ST coils. Comes with camber plates while the ST's do not.

I like the ST for it’s superb comfort, but my friends and I have always had our front struts blow with ST. While you send the shock in to get replaced, they don’t give you a temporary shock so your the car will experience down time.

Camber plates aren't good for everyone, so that might not be a plus (other than selling the plates) if they aren't good for the person's usage.

It does make for an easier install. No having to remove your stock top hat.

A new set of stock top hats are just as easy... point is, camber plates aren't for everyone.

Only if you don’t have proper tools.

To install ST you don’t even need to remove the top hats, just disconnect the stock struts and remove the center strut nut and the whole thing comes out.

It is so worth it to buy a $20 pass through wrench system to use in tandem with an Allen wrench to avoid spinning the strut.

Loosen the upper strut but while it is on the ground to take stress off the nut.

Would be nice to find some of the new PP setup. Maybe I will try for those and pair with a set of yellows.

Can you elaborate on "proper setup"

From what I've seen PP shocks are harder to come by and generally people ask a fair bit more than they probably should. Probably not worth the difference vs a low mileage set of '17+ shocks, which are already quite an improvement over earlier cars. I got a set of '17 shocks w/ less than 400 miles for $280 shipped. Likely putting Yellows on for next track season.

where did you manage to sang them?

A good alignment (and I mean a GOOD alignment, not factory spec crap) and ride heights set with performance/ride in mind, not just looks.

- Andrew

In the Suspension FS section of this forum

What's a good shop in socal that can do install plus a solid alignment? Anyone have recommendations?

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I just tracked down a almost brand new set of 2017 Dampers off a BRZ with 200 miles for 80$ without top hats. Just re-use my current stock ones. Going to pair it with RCE Yellows and camber bolts up front. Now the question is with the back.

Is it worth it to get some Whiteline LCA to allow for camber adjustments in the rear? I am planing on either Enkie RPF1's in 17x8 ET45 or 949 RACING 6UL 17X8 ET40. I want as neutral of a handling car and figured have LCA will let me get camber dialed in correctly. Rather do everything right since I am saving money rather then getting cheap coilovers. Also thinking of adding a 5mm spacer in front and 10mm spacer in back. I don't like the tucked look when you drop this car with near stock offset. Thoughts???

Go for the lcas, sounds like you care.

Changing wheel spacings changes handling.

@Racecomp Engineering

Can you help recommenced a good alignment spec for my car. Mostly a DD and canyon carver with a few HPDE a year.

2017 Dampers off a BRZ
RCE Yellow Springs
SPC LCAs
SPC camber bolts for up front

17x8 et40 and 225/45/17 Firestone Indy Hawk tires

Nice set up!

Front camber: -2.2
Rear camber: -1.8
Front toe: 0
Rear toe: 0.14 in

You might not be able to get -2.2 up front with just your bolts, but max them out and make sure it's even.

- Andrew

West End Alignment in Gardena, CA is a reputable shop! Ask for Darin! (310) 808-9233

https://www.yelp.com/biz/west-end-al...vice_attribute

Will this cause excessive tire wear?

HPDE by itself will cause excessive wear. More camber will even wear pattern (and add grip), to not rip just tire outsides on track.
Suggested numbers by RCE are somewhere in between for DD only car (with optimum camber in -1.5 to -1 range) and track (-3+ front, -2.5 rear), just as you asked.

Or if you asked about impact on DD wear .. too slight to care imho. Camber impact on wear is minimal, and of extent to -2.5 shouldn't be noticeable. Excessive toe do wear tires much more, but hence the suggestion by RCE for zero toe front, and slight toe-in rear (some extra stability for acceleration out of corners). Those suggested numbers will also make car understeer less in turns (stock camber is 0, rear -1.1, so more camber front will make it push less).
From my experience, total wear from 5 trackdays was way more then DD wear from whole season. So imho you shouldn't care much about DD wear, but on track with more camber wear will be better :). Tires are just consumables, like brake pads & fuel. On track they wear much much faster.

Also one can get two camber bolt set (spc 81305 + whiteline KCA416) for both lower mount holes. Together maxed out worth upto -2.3 at stock height, -2.5 for lowered.

Depending on usage, you could end up with improved tire wear. :)

- Andrew

Well I got my new to me OE 2017 brz dampers and rce yellow springs installed with spc LCA's and camber bolts up front. Drop is suttle but looks better then the stock height. Also the car with is set to zero camber in the front and rear ATM till I get my alignment done. But the car feels a bit smoother then the old 2013 stock suspension with less travel. Thanks again everyone for there advice. Can't wait to get my proper alignment done at West end and go for a drive.

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