XFORCE Unequalled-length header for Toyota 86
 

These new headers seem like the cheapest alternative to getting some power gain while keeping the boxer rumble. Just not sure if these are any good or am I wasting my money.

I already got a stage 1 tune at the moment and Toyota 86 GT is nice and smooth while also increasing power. The launch control is also a nice feature.

Any ideas what $400 Aus dollars will get one with nice boxer rumble.

Attachment 170734

The lower end headers can be hit or miss from a quality standpoint. If money's tight, I would look for a used, higher quality header.

That's one way of going about it, not a lot of second-hand stuff here in Australia in terms of car parts.

This the other alternative at about $400, but this is equal length and I hate the tinny sound that it makes.

Attachment 170735

Xforce is supposed to be pretty good quality in Australia, correct?

Their middle of the road, ive heard people complain about their exhausts being really quite even the full 3"

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Summerwolf

Yes, they are $430 at the moment and the only one I can find at that price point and unequal length.

Birthday coming up hummmmmm

website a bit dodgy for the URL link, but it is the real thing:

https://www.sparesbox.com.au/part/xf...AaAnIIEALw_wcB

The primaries are smaller than OEM, but this new X Force one is 4:1, unlike OEM 4:2:1.

The removal of the cat is a plus.

4:1 is better up top

4:2:1 apparently has better midrange.

Same for primary size, smaller is better down low, bigger up top.

Same same for secondaries

Same same for length to pipes

Oh, and collector design.

I don't know and cannot find any info on the X Force IRT R&D.

They are cheap, website says $599 though.

So, in summing up, the only power gain is most likely from removing the cat.

I may be over thinking this, I'm a few Whiskeys down.

As I understand the Toyota 86 has a primary cat and a secondary card. One in the header and the other in the CAT just up near the front?

I don't want to remove the secondary CAT just to keep within the environment limit and don't want to get pulled over or found out for not CAT on my car.


[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2tl4LLMWnmo[/ame]

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tTsrC5taJGs[/ame]

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YQSR1mwH6NM[/ame]

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RyApNvgmiQ4[/ame]

I've got the X Force 2.5" header back now, I originally just had the X Force cat back but it still sounded stock, the additional X Force front pipe with the high flow cat gave it a good sound.

I have been contemplating their header, the EL one though.

And don't go by the sound clips on their website, their "cat back" on the website sounds louder than my over pipe back.

I would hazard to guess what they say is cat back is actually a full system.

If you do get it and get a dyno post up the graph, I'm curious on its effects IRT the torque curve.

It shows on their videos about 166.9 HP at the crank, not sure of the WHP.

Looks like the next upgrade for me. I paid a guy online to create a tune file that I could write to my ECU and despite the risk, it was a good investment. I thought my engine was knocking slightly before on a 98 octane fuel, much smoother and 10-15 more power.

I am hoping a Sage 2 tune will take it further power and nicer racer sound. Then I think that be it for my tuning, supercharger looks nice but $5,000-$7,000 on it is a bit out of my budget.

Thats 166whp, thered have to be something seriously wrong with it if thats crank hp lol

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166.9 HP at the crank looked odd to me also :iono:

:lol:

From what I understand, there is no equal

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Shiny...

I would rather go Gruppe-S uel header

There original design was EL 4:2:1 design, or close to EL anyway.

I ordered the Xforce UEL Headers and will be coating them with some heat paint. I managed to pick some paint up yesterday and its rated at 1093.33333 Celsius or 2000 Fahrenheit.

From previous videos on YouTube people have complained about the brand of paint coming off after a short period of time. I don't think they were using a high enough rated paint, so $70 worth of paint and when I get my headers I will paint them with a primer and then a nice flat red to go with the colour of my car.

Attachment 171770

The guy at the shop said after some time the headers will turn black, but most people just re-coat the headers.

You don't really get a coating from a rattle can but the undertray should allow it to last for awhile.

Hopefully, mine will sound like this and this is catted header :eyebulge:

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B93PkCAWpIE[/ame]

You get what you pay for! Plenty of them cracked, and needed re welding! Stay away

Why coat them anyways? What is the purpose of it? You wont see the header anyways. And that paint will do nothing in terms of protection. Do a ceramic coating in black or silver and call it a day.

Thanks for confidence boost......I hope they don't crack, the sensor read 550-600 so hot stuff.

I will update on how they go.....the flat red I got reads ceramic coating on the label.

We all do crazy things to our cars.

That red is nowhere near the proper ceramic coating. IS just a paint that will flake in couple of months time. Ask me how I know :)


Good luck with them.

See how I go, if it peels right off then I won't do it again, but found this video:

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h7oBCJjokmM&t=29s[/ame]

Well, here is my preparation:

Attachment 172153

Attachment 172154

White Primer

Attachment 172155

Attachment 172156

Next Red ceramic coat (so the tins says)

How did this turn out?
Did you dyno the header?
Do you have any pictures of the collector?

I got I tuned with a stage 2 and also did a dyno run.

I recently changed the crank pulley to a lighter pully (Perrin).

See Attached

Attachment 176537

Torque all the way through.