Mitsurugi: Reforged
 

In June my 2013 FR-S spun one or more bearings at the track. After carefully considering what it would cost to rebuild or replace the engine I decided to LS swap. Rebuilding didn't make sense because of cost and a used engine from the junkyard seemed like would present a high risk of breaking again like my last one. This thread will serve as my build thread for the project as I don't operate a standard build thread. I'll try to add as much detail as possible for others to learn from.

I'd like to thank @Sportsguy83 and @ILLSMOQ for answering my questions to get me to this point. The thread will likely progress slowly at first as I get everything set up and wait for parts, etc.

I have chosen to use the Element Tuning mount(modified CX Racing) kit, clutch master cylinder, and electronics/engine management package. They are utilizing their own Hydra ECU to replace the stock FRS computer. As I understand it, all functions except cruise control will operate normally. This can be added with a module from Summit or wherever. There is added functionality with the Hydra in that the traction control and stability systems can be tuned.

I first chose the L33 (5.3l aluminum truck engine) then switched to the LS1 as Element had concerns about the intake manifold fitting and certain other details in the engine that they weren't familiar with. Now it may have worked just fine, but I didn't want to risk it being problematic. I want this to be as turn key as possible(LOL this didn't fucking happen). I purchased a LS1 from a 2000 Corvette with 49,000 miles for about 2200$.

Sportsguy83 used a TR6060 from the 2010 Camaro SS. He claimed the shifter sat in the perfect spot so I got one too as opposed to the T56 Magnum XL from Element or Vorshlag for twice the cost. Of course this is a used transmission, not a new one but I needed to save the money, especially with the more expensive motor. I got a great deal (I think) on a 2010 Camaro SS transmission for about $2300 with the bellhousing, throwout bearing, and all sensors. Picked up a stock shifter on eBay for $50(got lucky on an auction) which I will be reselling soon as I just got a MGW short shifter for about $225 used on eBay. Hopefully everything lines up. -update- MGW shifter put the knob/stalk dead center with the shifter bezel. I don't believe without this shifter that it would have sat perfectly but probably close enough if you don't want to spend more money on a short shifter.

Clutch is the Stage2 from Monster Clutch Co. I got the lightened flywheel.

UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE

The build is complete. I'll always be adding stuff but for all practical purposes, I'm done with the swap part. Here I'll talk about the build over all so new folks to the thread can get an idea of what going on with an LS swap without digging through all my posts to piece it together.

Cost: holy shit. If you don't have deep pockets, don't even bother reading any further. This was incredibly expensive, I mildly regret doing it based on the money I spent. I didn't keep track but I'm confident I'm well over $20,000. And that's without a 500hp crate LS3. This is not cheap. It can't be done cheap, just cheaper. Much cheaper and you'll be sacrifice a lot IMO. You could forego all CAN connectivity: traction control, abs, gauges, but it's still gonna be bad. Probably the cheapest you could do it is pretty close to 10 Grand.

Motor and transmission: LS1, TR6060. LS1 was cheaper than the LS3s and lighter than a truck motor. Element doesn't work on LS1s so I've had problems there. Had to repin/extend the wiring harness, some tuning issues. Intake manifold fit ok with the MAP sensor broken off and plugged. Manifold is 3 bolt so an adapter is required for most throttle bodies. This makes the throttle body longer and interferes with the hood. If you can, get an aftermarket manifold, or use a drive by cable throttle body off a Camaro. Otherwise no real issues. Much lower power than an LS3 though. TR6060 transmission was cheaper than the T56 magnum XL but it did require a special driveshaft flange and fluid cooler. My TR6060 seems to have a lot of slop(rotational) at the drive shaft which translates into bucking when at the speed barrier between coasting and getting power. Not sure if this is normal but it's annoying. Without MGW short shifter, the shifter would have been too far rearward by about an inch. Highly recommend the shifter upgrade. When widening the transmission tunnel, cut out ALL the bracing. It'll save you trouble later.

Hydra EMS: This was the ECU from Element. Came with an adapter harness. I saw there were some of these on eBay for other cars for like 500$ but you'll still need a harness and a tune to use. I'm satisfied with the Hydra. Seems to work well. The traction control is amazing. You don't even feel it activate. Everything works except cruise control. For the cost, I have to recommend it. I think I say later in the thread I don't recommend, but ignore that. I feel like it is missing a few features but for 20% of what a Motec costs... I can't complain.

Element Tuning: Phil has been... Difficult to work with. His modified mounts and other parts are not of the fit and finish I'm accustomed to. But they seem to get the job done (mostly. Since assembly/modification required). My harness (modified by Element) was wrong. I had to fix it with nothing more than a big THANKS in an email. He doesn't like to answer his phone and emails are usually sent once per day. This is very time consuming and frustrating. If you aren't very adept with wiring and this kind of work, you should probably go elsewhere. The support is pretty rough. I believe he is simply too busy running 2 companies and racing time attack to effectively offer good service. He REALLY needs to hire some effective techs who can help with customer service. That being said, I think many of the questions I bugged him with were likely unnecessary, or would have been if I had a little more skill with wiring. He has given me advice on things to upgrade like my battery and starter, which I resisted since I didn't want to spend the money. Well, for whatever reason, I actually needed the upgrades. He was right. He really is pretty helpful, just again, he doesn't have enough time.

Everything else: this is where a very large portion of you money goes. Fittings, hoses, tanks, wires, battery, replacement parts, add ons. It adds up fast. Most stuff fit pretty well. Firewall is an issue. I recommend cutting a hole and routing the heater lines through that instead of using the stock hardlines. Most of this stuff isn't too hard to figure out.

Overall performance and opinion: feels great to drive. If anything I feel like I have to baby it because you can get into trouble so easily. You can't drive it like an FRS anymore. No flooring it through 3 gears at a stop light and still only be 10 over the speed limit. In that sense, it's less fun. Holding back isn't fun... But when you can cut loose it's a blast. The looks and attention feel great. The drive feels great. Still handles well (haven't tracked it yet though). Motor (at least my setup looks greathttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...49e78ee014.jpg

I do regret how much I spent too get this far. And I regret all the troubles I've caused my girlfriend. But I love this car, and I'm very happy with the outcome. If you have the skill, and the money, and PATIENCE... Then this may be your thing. If you lack any of the above, move along. Buy a Corvette, or replace your blown motor with a fa20. This isn't for the faint of heart.

I'm going to go through the thread and edit some posts with updated information.

I like to play it safe doing swap or major work in the sense I don't want to have to redo something a week later.
I would run an ok transmission fluid for a few days, drain and put in good stuff. Same with oil. Never chance a junkyard motor.


Let us know final tally cost as I may do this down the road.

It's looking to be about 15000$ with all the fittings and whatnot. You could do it a little cheaper if you use normal hoses, and reuse more parts. I'm using all -AN fittings, aftermarket coolant expansion tank, etc. I would say you'd be hard pressed to do it under 10000$.

This is another thread I will be regularly checking. Good luck!

I want to see this swap completed...set up a gofundme if it comes to that and I'll toss something your way :cheers:

I dunno what to say man... Your chokin me up bro. I never thought to start a gofundme. I did consider looking for a local sponsor though so I guess it's the same thing. https://www.gofundme.com/scion-frs-l..._co_campmgmt_m

There's the link. Hopefully that's not against the rules. I'm not asking anyone for donations but the option is there if you want to I guess.

Alright, first question for you guys. My TR6060 has ports for a transmission cooler. Apparently the stock cooler is part of the radiator in the camaro. Im looking at coolers on Jegs and you can get pretty much any size, shape, etc. I already have an oil cooler. What do you think would be the best way to mount a trans cooler? I'm concerned about blocking or spoiling too much air going into the radiator and making the engine too hot. But I'm not thinking of an effective location other than in front of the radiator. Long skinny cooler? Square shaped kinda like my oil cooler(mishimoto)?

Do you think it is necessary? You aren't pushing much weight, unless you're beating the hell out of it I can't see why you need one. If you want to run it I would put it next to the tranny, fit the undercarriage aero parts as tight to your new tranny as you can and cut out an opening for it. Mount it just above the aero parts to create turbulence and air should run through it.

I put a small core in front of the AC condenser.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The TR606 is unusual (it uses AT fluid instead of the usual MT thick fluid). I would just run a cooler even if a simple one.

The car will be tracked so it should probably have one since they thought it needed one from the factory. I considered hugging the transmission but it's gonna be awful close to the exhaust and there really isn't much room. I'll likely go with something similar to what sportsguy83 suggested. Do you guys expect there to be much performance difference between the style sportsguy83 mentioned and the tube and fin style coolers?

Big difference between stacked plate and tube and fin. Get the stacked plate cooler.

Big thing I'm waiting on right now is my engine mounts so I can see where this thing and the transmission will sit and where the transmission tunnel needs "modified". Then I can paint. There is some small work I can do though.

Today's project included the installation of a 1998 Chevy Tahoe 140amp alternator with the ICT Billet relocation bracket. Also CBM LS -16an thermostat housing with Jegs 160 degree thermostat. And the Phenix Industries(cheaper than CBM) long water pump neck. In the first photo you can see the bracket, therm housing, and me using a pipe to wobble the stock barb fitting loose. Second has it installed. I soaked it in blue Loctite and used a block of wood to protect the fitting as I hammered it in. It didn't go in up to the seat but I was hitting it hard enough I was concerned about damaging the fitting. I'm confident it won't fall out any time soon.

Also, partial install on MGW short shifter (2015 Camaro) I got on eBay used for about $225 shipped with shifter retention pins from GM. Part number 25753853.

Next I'll be installing the reverse lockout module from Jegs. Install looks simple. Power, ground, VSS, lockout solenoid. I bought a couple pigtails for the VSS in the transmission and reversed lockout solenoid. Reverse light plug will be cut and replaced with the stock FRS plug. VSS pigtail came from Wirebarn.com and the lockout solenoid plug I think on eBay. It was surprisingly easy to find compared to the VSS plughttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...05991206ef.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...327b01496d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...739ab3a2c1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...0f2f171193.jpg

Installed the Jegs reverse lockout unit. Put it at the rear of the center console. I moved that airbag sensor up out of the way to make room.

A while back, before I started the thread, I added a Deatchwerks DW65C fuel pump and Verus pump hanger "door". The Verus piece it's just a little aluminum flap that goes over the inlet opening in the stock fuel pump hanger. This essentially turns the fuel pump hanger into a low volume and fairly leaky surge tank. While it doesn't perfectly seal the bucket, it slows the escape of fuel long enough to not starve the pump. Tested on a supercharged brz/FR-S down to the fuel light coming on. I was in the bucket for the pump anyways so it was the perfect time to upgrade. I don't have pics because I did it shortly after I started the process 2 months agohttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...0b049e7d80.jpg

Last one today. As promised, diffuser teaser. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...026c433eeb.jpg

Do it!!!!

C'mon guys. A few bucks from several members will go a long way!

Thank you man. I REALLY appreciate it. Looking at buying -AN fittings now... It's gonna be spendy as fuck

Sorry for the lack of progress. Still waiting on parts. I got in some fittings and picked up a cooler for the transmission which I will detail more when I install it. I'll just have 2 pics here... AC compressor adapter and -AN adapters for the transmission coolerhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...11419bd2ca.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1d636c0861.jpg

Is that the factory corvette ac compressor? What year? 01? 02?

2000. Came on the motor so I assume it's factory

Making some progress today although still not what I wanted. Most of my parts will be here Monday, like my mounts, then things can get crazy.

Fuel hardlines are as follows from top to bottom (or firewall towards the radiator) port inject, evap, direct inject.

More posts to come today and many in the following weekhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d45f95df91.jpg

Heater outlet compression fittings, one is stepped down as the heater inlet is the same on both sides.

I had to trim length on all the heater compression fittings.

Water pump->heater is the larger, front port. Heater->water pump is the smaller rear port. I believe the heater core inlet is closest to the battery if I remember my hoses correctly. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c42132c3b0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...62edc6da1b.jpg

Engine bay prepped for paint. No more brown primer. Going with Electric Blue II Effect used by Mini. Transmission tunnel is ready for paint. Had to "modify" both sides, cutting part or the bracing out and hammering on the lower half towards the front. Remember I'm using the TR6060 from a 2010 Camaro SS. Shifter looks like it will line up fine. I'm adding steel plates to the interior to brace the mounts for the new transmission. You could weld them in on either side of you wanted but I don't have a welder avoidable nor am I willing to gut my interior to do it. I'll bolt them in. I'll post pics of this later when I get them in.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9591bfdda5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e6c4c5fc15.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e65cafc487.jpg


UPDATE: when you modify the tunnel, cut out ALL the stock bracing

Broke the MAP sensor off this little offshoot unit fitting the motor. Turns out my new ECU, the Hydra Engine Management System has an internal MAP so I'm deleting this elbow looking thing. This elbow, which mounts the MAP also feeds the brake booster and another vacuum line, is right up against the stock heater hardlines. I didn't get a pic of this but it's gotta go. The LS6 has this same unit but the LS2+ does not. I'm going to drill and tap vacuum ports somewhere less troublesome. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d9302bcef9.jpg

Edited for fuckup. Please ignore

Installed the new ECU. Just unplug the old and plug in the new. Still have to run a vacuum line for the MAP though. Lost my glove box too. This thing is much larger than the stock ECU. Might be able to stash it if I tore out the dash board, but I'm not willing to do thathttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...79c77b4492.jpg

Got the new drive by cable gas pedal figured out. Mounting it anyways...

This plate attaches to the stock pedal mount, new pedal attaches to the plate. I thought I had a picture of that but apparently not, so here's a picture of my cat insteadhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e7845b4d95.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9228dcb270.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...bc120077cf.jpg

Very nice, i am about to do the same on the gas pedal. What cable/length cable did you use. Any other pics of how you are attaching to the regular pedal setup?

Cable was supplied with kit but I can measure it in the next day or 2. The 2 holes on the end of the bracket with the little radius cutout mount to the 2 existing studs while the 2 other holes mate to the pedal. The large radius cut faces the wrong column. I thought I had a picture of this but I guess it didn't take. I'll get one soon when I permanently mount the pedal. Painting tomorrow so everything will come together very quickly now. If anyone has any questions or requests just let me know and I'll do what I can

Cable is about 60 inches long.

Plugged factory dipstick hole with GM part number 9421743https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...783afec7d3.jpg

Paint is done. Putting the body harness, ABS, brake booster/MC backhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...778decf151.jpg

Clutch master cylinder mostly installed. Clutch pedal bracket needs modified to fit the standard thread post on the MC. Looks like the vendor scratched the sticker off the box because it was covered with painters tape. Hopefully these pics are enough for someone looking to buy one on their own. Also, here is another picture of the gas pedal bracket which is also now installedhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...01effeea1f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3548d86d98.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e43a979dcf.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d6f3df6956.jpg

UPDATE: I believe it was @spitsnaugle used a Tilton master cylinder with a custom bowl mount. I recommend this approach as the master cylinder interferes with the engine. They may not occupy the same space but it certainly makes installing the motor difficult.

Say, anyone know what wires are which on the alternator plug? I need to mate it up with the new alternator but I can't make sense of the electrical diagram

Tucked my harness into the transmission tunnel and installed stage 2 single disc clutch from Monster. Starter looks like it will mate up just fine. If I did my math right I have about .155 clearance on the slave. I'm gonna add the .055 spacer from Tick performance. I installed the oil pan also but didn't get pics. I'll try to get them tomorrowhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...71acd7e101.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...36cb756819.jpg

UPDATE: Don't tuck the harness too far. I ended up pulling the plug back out and I've had to unplug it several times now. Making the plug hard to access might be pretty but it turns trouble shooting into a cluster fuck

Following. I too am using a Nemesis with a 5.7 LS1. Who are you goi g to have tune it? I'm still collecting parts and 80% complete.

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Someone local. Dunno who yet. You're not in the Omaha area are you?

Located in NC.

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Tapped a new barb fitting into my intake manifold since the old one occupied the same space as my heater lines. I teed it off for the vacuum line to the Nemesis unit. I'll try to beautify this coupling somehow later.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2e019d3a71.jpg

Clutch slave installed with .055 shim, remote bleed, and a quick disconnect. Had to get an -AN adapter from Monster Clutch.

Drilled for my transmission tunnel bracing. Drilled all my holes too low the first time [emoji26] so now I have a bunch of holes in my transmission tunnel. Not sure how I'm gonna plug them yet. The transmission tunnel hangs below the underbelly of the car by about an inch. If you are going to use similar bracing to me, put the plate where you want it inside, and drill from the inside. At least for the first hole. I didn't want to pull out my entire interior to drill so I did it from below without checking inside before drilling everything. Lesson learned.

The plates were scrap pieces I had at work, drilled on my drill press. Nothing fancy. Probably 1/8"thickhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...328c0c591f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...859451ce97.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a9250da037.jpg