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E85 Overrun Pops & Fire on NA
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After tuning for quite a few CALID's of the 86 community I now have a better understanding of my version of pops and bangs. You'll want to edit mainly 3 things. Overrun Enrich RPM Delta: This is the amount of RPM drop that needs to happen for Overrun to start. (I use -1, change to whatever RPM you want it to drop by before engaging enrichment) Overrun Initial Injector Enrichment Pulsewidth (I have used anywhere from 0.8 up to 8.8ms) and Base Timing Idle In-Gear Above Speed Threshold (So far in the 176 coolant temp row, -12.97 at 1500RPM to 1800RPM seems to be the right amount of timing for pops/bangs and for those with catless setups, fire.) Make sure you use the fixed xml definition files that are here on the forums for v4.03 OFT tunes. There are some xml files provided by OFT that may not have been fixed yet, that have errors in it, and it will make the In Gear Above Speed Threshold table look way different then it should be.
For those who have issues with throttle delay, either use Pulsewidth's closer to 0.0 or turn it off completely. Long pulse width's like 8.8ms can cause issues with throttle delay especially after lots of pops, but you need to give it some time for fuel trims and the accelerator pedal deadspace to go away. It takes about 50-100 miles of driving in closed loop learning mode before fuel trims settle and throttle dead space goes away. After at least 100 miles of driving, it should be much easier to rev match and throttle delay should not be as much. There will inherently be some delay afterwards and this is because it is using negative timing and a richer mixture at the exhaust cycle. You can't make power with negative timing, only with advanced timing. There are tradeoff's of course, and this is why there's the jerkiness with the traditional B-Timing table pops, since that table directly influences power. In Gear Timing tables luckily don't cause jerkiness on/off throttle. If you can't get used to pressing in the accelerator pedal more for rev matching or the throttle delay is too much, then don't use overrun, just In Gear Timing. CALID's that aren't compatible are pretty much all Auto trans versions. If you make these changes on a auto trans version, autorev matching when using paddle shifters or gear shifter in manual mode, will NOT work. This is because the auto trans ecm gets confused by the negative timing with In Gear table. Manual users shouldn't be affected by this. Ecutek users: I currently have Ecutek RaceRom v9 and using Ecutek's autorev match function on manual with In Gear Above Speed Threshold negative timing, DOES work. So Ecutek users can use the same method on manual trans. I have yet to test on Ecutek with auto trans. There is only 1 Overrun table in Ecutek, and it is for injector's kicking back on at certain RPM's. There are none of the Overrun tables you see below in Ecutek unfortunately. Link to, how to fix xml file's. http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=126180 I'm on Ecutek and when I want to run afterfire this is my rescaled table on Ecutek. |
You figure it out?
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I'm interested if this ended up working as well. Although I already had my fun with the pops and bangs tune edits on 93 and wouldn't put it on e85, I'm very interested on whether or not it worked. Also e85 is worse mpg as it is, I wonder how much of a hit this added as well. |
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Overrun always causes rev hang or sometimes even auto rev matching type effect when I try it..
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Post has been updated everyone. Sorry it took so long to kinda finalize this, but I didn't want to post my finding until I had tuned enough different CALID's to see what works and what doesn't.
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If you want to incorporste the tables defined in romraider in ecutek tune. Start with stock rom ( one without lc\ffs patch) Edit this stock rom with romraider to add the undefined changes Save editied rom then open it with ecutek Then make any other changes you need then add ecutek racerom if needed If you dont want to add reaceom you can just use a rom with patches, but make sure its a narive rom and not calid hacked. The calid hacks or lc\ffs patch will conduse ecutek and also stop you lading racerom patch |
Can confirm this works better than the jerky tune.
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It's basicly grouping all of the same values in to one table to gain 3 more tables. https://images2.imgbox.com/02/db/HyGdbskr_o.png (These are settings for a daily driver, just some light added burble) |
Was thinking about trying that a long time ago, but never got around to testing it on my own BRZ so I never did that for anyone else. I don't use anyone I tune's twins as guinea pigs so I test on mine first. I'm on Ecutek now, I might give this a try. Didn't want to risk bricking my ECU when I first started with In Gear pops testing over a year ago, so I never tried rescaling stuff like that.
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After about a week of using this revised method, I will not be modifying the B timing any longer. The overruns posted work fantastic for a nice burble.
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Pops were more aggressive having ran this revised tune.
And my buddy caught me popping flames on his dashcam. https://youtu.be/ztTL9olO9oQ |
Funfact. 2nd gear high RPM heavy throttle. Release throttle and then immediately tap it for ultimate rapidfire.
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I just want to backfire on upshifts when banging gears. my buddies brz does it and he only has base b at -10..... I tuned my car the same way and it doesn't happen for me. I dont understand lol. we have the same exhaust mods as well
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I'm on the V4 e85 stage 2+ with catless headers, catless front pipe and a catback exhaust. If I want to make pops and some small flames, do I just need to make the edits from the original post by erebuswarrior?
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Editing these will result in a bricked ECU. Use this updated definition (Only use for V4 roms, do not use these for older V2 tunes) Those tables are included, then you will see the same as my screenshot. OFT V4 A00C |
After rescaling the in gear tables, to only have negative timing 2500 RPM and up, I also moved to -15.8, and here's a video of the fire I didn't know I was shooting lol.
https://youtu.be/PBUcT3WOdF0 |
So I'm testing this tune out on my 17' BRZ and it works fine. My question though is, can you send me an instruction for how to rescale the mapping for higher RPMs? I don't like the constant burbling/popping at lower RPMs
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It's basicly grouping all of the same values in to one table to gain 3 more tables. https://images2.imgbox.com/02/db/HyGdbskr_o.png You can edit the top row with the rpm's also, just copy my table and add your own values. My values are for a daily driver with some very light burbles. |
Thanks ElBarto! I just adjusted mine similar to what you have yours as I don't want all the bangs all the time.
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This is my rescaled version on Ecutek.
https://youtu.be/PBUcT3WOdF0 |
I cant see the rescaled table for higher RPMs. Can anyone repost please? I just want pops and flames from like 3500 - 6500 rpm. I also am boosted with Vortech, but I dont think that will affect this.
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My temps are in Celsius (left values of 70 and 80), but doesn't matter for the timings https://images2.imgbox.com/5d/aa/sVognHXo_o.png |
Also a Side question for anyone with the answer. Where the hell do I get the updated Brz template for the OFT?!? Is it a file someone can email me
or do I have to put a request to openflash for it? Thank you in advance. |
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Here's my tables, how does this look?
I'm running vortech and on E85. |
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Can't help you with the Vortech/E85 question. Adding aftermarket forced induction is illegal and E85 is non-existing in my country. |
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It was changed to the Ferrari for all supported cars. |
Oh, I was way off. Thank you.
After reading that some people will tune their Idle control valve to stay open on overrun for a more desirable flame or pop. I've been looking thru tables on RomRaider, I cant find a way to use the idle valve on overrun but I found some tables for Mass Air Flow which will leave the throttle plate angle more open on decel. I'm assuming this will have the same affect. And possibly not have to play with Pedal to get pops this way. Does anyone have any input on this idea? |
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I tried changing the MAF desired overrun A table this morning. I applied a multiplier on everything from 2000rpm/ 158 degrees on up. I tried 1.1x then went back to 1.05x. It does keep the throttle plate slightly open, but it doesn't keep the injectors on so you still need to do the overrun fueling thing or feather the pedal. So you end up with slightly less engine braking and in my case longer lasting and quieter crackles and pops. I don't know how I feel about the change in engine braking, but I like the change to the sound enough to run it for a while. This is with an OTS E85 tune, catless header and frontpipe, and a stock catback. The rest of my settings are below.
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Mine is a manual, 98 petrol. |
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