replacing the crank pulley on automatic
 

I will be replacing my crank pulley with fluidampr in a couple of days. My FRS is an AT and I read that I will do the replacement with transmission in Drive position. Do I need to do this Neutral instead? I bought the Company 23 crank pulley tool

I don't see where it would make any difference. - :iono:


humfrz

I made a tool much the same as in the pic but cruder.

I left it in park, inserted the tool at an angle towards the floor. Then I stack wood bits under the handle until it was wedged good and tight. I then got out the breaker bar, pipe extension and gave it a quick jerk to break it free.
Rinse and repeat to install it and torqued it to spec.

Then I reversed the procedure a few K later cause I bought garbage pulleys. Live and learn. :bonk:

If you got the tool you should be fine in any gear


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I’m about to do the same fluidampr in my AT. I got a slightly diff tool but I think used the same. Anyways not sure but I read there is like a clip or someway to lock in the crank from moving to get pulley off. Not sure exactly. Should do a quick write up for me after you finish :cheers:

Okay, thanks for the feedback so far. My main concern is avoiding damaging transmission or engine. I will let you know.

Put the breaker bar against the ground and flick the key. Just make sure you have it the right way.

I'm spoiled with a MT so I simply throw it in 6th with the ebrake. No tool needed. :)

Not sure you've read the torque specs for putting it back on but it's 15ft-lbs and then an additional 90deg. Make sure you oil the threads and head/washer before torquing it. You will also notice the bolt has hash marks every 90 which is handy.

I've used this method and it works well but I never suggest it to others due to the part I bolded. It's too easy for someone to not place the breaker in the right position and have it swing around smashing into crap.

Think about it this way. The car has 200hp and doesn't harm the tranny. No way will you be able to harm it with your arms and a breaker. Throw it in neutral with the brake set if you're really concerned. This will also allow you to freely rotate the pulley to whatever position works best for your tool.

I had to buy a tool, I couldn't get it to "break" the bolt since the car was moving several inches when I would try to apply torque to the bolt. Now I own a Company23 crank pulley tool I only used once. :bellyroll:

The key is 6th gear.. not just any gear. The other trick is to put the breaker on the bolt with the handle as far to the right side of the engine bay as possible. Then put the car in 6th with the break off and then roll the car forward. This will plant the breaker all the way to the right and take up some of the slack. Now pull the brake. When you pull the bar it will only move about 10deg before all the drivetrain slack (mounts, gears and clutch disk springs) is taken up leaving plenty of room to break the bolt loose.

The biggest key though is 6th gear. It takes way too much movement of the crank to take up all the slack when in lower gears.

I have been driving with the Fluidampr since several days. The engine is running smoother at every rpm, even at idle. There is definitely less vibraton when engine revving up to 6-7k rpm. Very happy with the result.

AT definitely needs a tool to hold the pulley. I bought Company 23 pulley tool with FA20DIT Intake/Exhaust pin kit. The OEM pulley has large holes and the crank pulley pin kit works when removing the stock but these do not fit in the small holes on Fluidampr for holding it during installation of the new pulley. That is why Intake/Exhaust pin kit is necessary. It was a very easy installation with two important things to consider.

After the bolt is out, wiggle out the stock pulley very gently to make sure oil pump cover and the thin black o ring are left in place. If those are displaced, place them back very precisely. Once the stock pulley is out, apply oil to bolt head and thread, insert the new pulley after aligning the pin on the pump cover with the hole on pulley. Make sure the new pulley is sitting flush and secure, insert and tighten the bolt to 94 lb-ft torque. Install the belt again. Done!

If one is dumb enough to try it without thinking about it then one will eventually do something else that is equally stupid. Might as well get the lesson over with quickly. :D

Well, tool is still needed to tighten the bolt to specified torque with AT. It took less than 30 seconds to loosen the bolt using the crank pulley tool.

Everybody, don't use the starter method, especially if you have the push button! :bonk:

:lol:


Ultramaroon has spoke the truth - :thumbsup:



humfrz

:lol: If someone were to try that I'd tell them to buy a power probe, it has more uses than just engaging starters.

It took me one flick of the key to get the pulley screw loosened. I did it to install a lightweight pulley which was a mistake btw.

Mistake? In installation or in the pulley itself?

Well, mine's 30 years old. I have multimeters older than that. :thumbsup:


https://i.imgur.com/Mkxf9sRl.jpg

I wonder if other tools cannot be reused for that :)
https://www.scienceabc.com/wp-conten...elete-meme.jpg

It was a mistake to replace the stock pulley imo.

Why? Did you have any issue?

According to Toyota it contributed to a failed crank bearing but they still warranteed it. Who knows? Either way I'm done with pulleys.

That is extremely nice of them.

I saw that you were using ofh and e85? In general, for high load applications such as superchargers or e85 it might be better to use the original pulley set or the fluidampr. An alternative is to use new strengthened connecting rod bearings, but this can be done only if someone builds the engine.

:popcorn:

There were some owners in Japan having issues even with the stock crank pulley, but they had turbo or supercharged cars. It looks to exist a correlation with high load applications. In such cases they even suggest to use the Fluidampr pulley. I had mentioned it before.

I will go drive with my smooth engine instead of getting into another light-pulley fight here. Everybody does whatever they want to their cars. Don't eat too much popcorn before dinner!

Fight on what? Get a bit serious ... No-one said you did anything wrong.


And by the way, here is the old post:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...2&postcount=24

I was on 93 with header and tune when the motor failed. Spit a rocker at first. Rest of motor was inspected and bearing problem discovered. Toyota was fantastic! I doubt bearings are insufficient for e85 use. Not that much of a load increase.

Toyota did me a solid. If it were another brand I'd be fucked.

Reverse the vacuum on these motors (f.i.) and all bets are off.

Do you know Edelbrock has powertrain warranty and there is not anybody that I know claimed warranty yet. Jackson Racing tracked their cars several seasons already (they won the championship actually two years ago)? There are proper ways of going FI and there are other ways.

Load on bearings doesn’t increase when power output increases. Load on bearings increases when starved of oil. Bearings are only there to create the perfect clearance for the oil to create a “bearing”. As long as the oil temps are in range and pressure is good then the bearings never make contact. But throw in a bunch of vibration from something being out of balance and you will potentially wear bearings. I personally would rather stick to a dampened pulley and go with a flywheel to reduce rotating mass. There is more to be had in the flywheel anyways.