What is the best way to have 250bhp on FRS?
 

After few track sessions I saw that I don't need more than 250bhp on my gt86 - I'm not that brave and skilled to tame 300bhp.

I want to spend not too much money and have 250bhp (on crankshaft, not whp). What is the most reliable solution? Wanna have improvement through all the rev range, but keep the engine rev-happy, like naturally-aspireted, with linear delivery of power.

I don't plan to have more than 250bhp. I will track the car (lightly, no racing tires and suspension), so the config must be reliable under beating. What is the best way to achieve this goal?

If that is your goal you may also want to explore getting the best header and tune you can possibly find. I expect that will be nearly as fast around a racetrack for less money than a supercharger. Not to mention quite a bit simpler.

Dude. SC threads have a billion pages of this info. Go check it out

I believe you can reach just a little shy of 210 rwhp with E85 + header + exhaust and tune. It will be a LOT less maintenance and headache for you down the road, especially on track.

Pick a good header + a custom tune. If you're going for max results and have the budget, ACE + their Delicious tune is probably best. Then flex fuel if you have E85 conveniently available. Then look into a 4.55 final drive mod. Possibly add some intake spacers (Crawford Power Blocks) when you get your custom tune. You'll have a car that meets your goals, especially if you have access to E85. And you won't have any potential FI related headaches.

We don't have E85 in Russia

Ah ok - I still think you could achieve your goals without E85. If you want the next step up and keep the rev-happy linear nature of the motor, then you'll want to look at a Jackson Racing C30 supercharger kit with the stock pulley.

I would try to find a used supercharger kit

E85 flex fuel from Delicious Tuning and a good exhaust like PPE EL or ace header will get you 200 at the wheel 225ish crank. What octane do you have in Russia?

supercharger is the easiest way. I would get a nice linear one like Harrop or Edelbrock.

Caught you not reading!

you got me

Aftermarket pulleys will get you there no problem.

250bhp is very expensive NA.
intake, BPB, ace 250-150 header, catless FP, header back, custom tune on 93octane could get you 200-205whp or 230-235bhp. With E85 then don’t use BPB and can prob add another 6whp. To get that extra 15bhp you’d need cams and valvetrain to rev to 8200k and that would be pricy.
Or just toss in a sprintex 210 at 8psi and you’ll be at 225-230whp, header back prob another 10whp

The other option if FI isn’t an option or even if it is. Weight reduction can quickly increase power to weight and you could easily NA get the same ratio as stock weight to 250bhp with some weight reduction. 250bhp to 2774 = 11.1bhp/lbs. 174lbs weight reduction with 235bhp = 11.06bhp/lbs

SMH nice.....

Most stock cars (200 crank) on a dynojet come in around 165-170whp. A top tier catless header and good custom tune, will get you around 200whp, maybe more. Ptunings header made well over 200. That's on 93. 200/165*200= about 242 crank horsepower based on stock being 200 at the crank. But more than that, it will feel much livelier across the rev band. Power blocks, with correct tune, will fatten up your upper mid range, and only sacrifice a couple hp north of 7000 rpm. Add to that the final drive mod and your car will feel quite perky. Past that, like the other poster mentioned, it gets expensive - better to bite the bullet and go FI, where you can get bigger power (and potentially bigger headaches, or at least more fiddling).

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Ace header, Race gas, and tune, will get you most of the way there.

are there any videos in the Net with a race between headers+tune BRZ vs stock? I hadn't found any. I want to compare the income

why do the people keep saying that turbo or supercharged BRZ has lower reliability than stock one? I had STI 2005 ej207 st1, didn't have any problems at all.

we have very garbage motors for reliability and power output.

If one shaves weight and adds more power and a 4.56 final drive. Well it's the BRZ version of taking the red pill ;)

Nah.. pulleys won't be enough. He might need additionally the red STI start button and maybe the red belts..
:bonk:

1) FA20 is not engineered for stresses of forced induction, STI motors are.

2) Factory FI systems are typically better engineered than aftermarket add-on solutions.

3) Installer error can have expensive repercussions, vs. a car that rolls off the factory floor with FI.

4) People tend to cut costs and not employ fail-safe measures when installing aftermarket FI.

Risk vs. reward. If you go FI, just make sure you have the funding to rebuild a blown motor. If you don't, and you're satisfied with an incremental bump in power, go the NA route. You can really change how the car feels with just a few simple non-FI mods.

Header + tune + 4.56 or 4.8 FD will really wake the car up.

are there any videos with race between aforementioned and stock?

Don't hate on my awesome red STI start button :thumbup:

250 bhp slightly crosses into the FI territory. 200 whp (230 bhp?) is possible with high-end NA mods. You can do ACE header + tune to reach the high end NA level and continue with weight reduction. But weight reduction is not cheap either. I think supercharger will be the easiest way to reach your goal. You will probably get more than 250 bhp that way. But I am sure you wouldn't complain about it.

Probably someplace but who knows... however there are a lot of before / after dynos , 0-60 , 1/4mile of various mods and levels of mods. And you can compare that vs stock. In an auto I went from low 8s to high 6s 0-60, not sure what my stock 1/4 was prob low-mid 17s, but I broke into high 14s. with bolt ons, 4.56Fd, and tune on 92octane.

Have a look at this video


[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bhnMYvn5S4[/ame]

What about WRX engine. It is FA20 with FI from factory.

86 has fa20D 12.5:1 compression
Wrx has fa20F 10.6:1 compression

That is a very misleading review. I am not sure what was wrong there. Probably, at a high altitude both engines were suffering.

True, the numbers are quite low. I posted it to show more how they felt about Tuned vs Supercharged.


I thought the fact that they were split was kind of ironic lol

The most cost efficient way would be cattless Header + E85/flex Tune. However since it seems that you dont have access to e85, a supercharger that comes with a tune such as the Edelbrock will be easiest.

Personally I’d stop messing around and go full aluminium V8 swap with sequential gearbox.

Lol. I wish...

Do a header and tune first. I was surprised at how good my car felt with the torque dip ironed out and just a few extra ponies. Certainly NOT 250hp at the point, but it was way more driveable.
(The FF was great too although ethanol isn’t too easy to come by here)

Great video, however, they failed to show how much faster the supercharged car was over the one with tune/headers/exhaust.

This is how much faster the car is with boost. Me and a BRZ getting our asses whooped by a Vortech supercharged 86. Our cars weren't stock either (headers/exhaust/tune)

[ame]https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=jV0ptSov4VA[/ame]

[ame]https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=73v-K-EKgwE[/ame]

Been supercharged for four years now, no regrets! Like the other reviewer said, it's much more expensive, but oh so worth it. If you can afford it, do it.

Think the biggest factor would be what is your current budget? And or future budget?

From the sound of things you would be a good candidate for a lower boost supercharger setup could run 7-8psi at 240whp all day. However this route when everything is said and done probably 7.5k$ for kit, install, tune.

Or a ace header + custom tune setup for roughly 2.5k$ and about 200whp.

However neither option restricts you from the other and they both benefit eachother. U could sc now and add header or header back later or vice versa.

So depending on budget you may want to go header first, and if that is enough or getting close to enough power then u don’t need to invest in sc.

If committing to NA and not SC then a CAI if maf scaled and if no E85 then billet blocks.
A lot of ppl say ace 350, that is best daily driver low / mid range torque. If you want to stay rev happy and have some mid / top end power the ace 250 is a bit cheaper and offers more 4K+ then the 350 but doesn’t 100% eliminate torque dip.

And lastly like I mentioned earlier weight reduction. The first 100lbs or so is free/cheap and can make a huge difference. On stock car 100lbs is about 7.5bhp. From a ratio standpoint.

I warned myself not to come in here. Now I’m getting the SC fever again.

If you haven't already go to the track. You will be humbled...


For me, a SC has been put WAY back on the back of the back burner :bellyroll: