KW coilovers and camber (without camber plates)
 

Figured someone else might find this useful eventually...


If you want good useful camber up front, but don't want camber plates, you can get ~ 3.8* by using the SPC lower bolts, stock lower bolts in the upper hole and maxing out the negative amount in the slotted upper hole on the strut. Another benefit to this combination is you can max out the camber on the upper hole, then use the lobed bolt to dial it back very easily. A lobed bolt in the upper hole doesn't work in the slot to easily dial back camber.

This is interesting info. I've thought about trying it before but was afraid having a crash bolt on top and a lobed camber bolt in the bottom might not be strong enough or could slip. With just the 14mm crash bolt on top I get about -2.5 max camber.

If the upper bolt is going to slip, it's going to slip towards more camber (loosen off the bolts with the weight of the car on the wheels and it goes max camber), that's why I maxed out the upper and used the lobed lower bolt to dial it back.


I bet with the stock upper bolt in place it would still get to about -3 or -3.1*.

I'm going to try this to get my front camber to -3.5. Which SPC part number did you use for the lower hole? Want to make sure it fits.

I have tried:


Lower oem bolt in upper hole and 14mm SPC (81305) in lower hole.


14mm SPC (81305) in upper hole and oem lower bolt in lower hole.


14mm SPC (81305) in upper hole and SPC 12mm 81250 in lower hole.


12mm SPC 81250 in upper hole and 14mm SPC (81305) in lower hole.


14mm SPC (81305) in upper hole and 14mm SPC (81305) in lower bolt in lower hole.




Am currently using:



Lower oem bolt in upper hole and 14mm SPC (81305) in lower hole.


I never had any of the bolts move after TQ them down to spec.

That's exactly what I was hoping to hear! What torque specs did you use?

SPC 81305


Upper and lower on mine are torqued to 100ft/lbs, the SPC spec is 97, but whatever :D

Hey, what endlinks are you using? I just installed the SPC 81305 in the lower hole and was able to get -3.5 degrees up front. Only problem is now the bottom of the strut is hitting the endlink when turning near full lock. I'm thinking the lobed bolt must have changed the angle of the strut in relation to the endlinks.

This is what it looks like when the steering wheel is turned to near full lock. The bottom of the shock body is making contact with the endlink. I think maybe some adjustable endlinks that could go a little longer would fix it.

Stock, no clunks but haven't looked for signs of rubbing.

Well, it's a moot point now anyway. The SPC camber bolts already slipped and hosed my front camber bad. Went to -4.3 FL -3 FR after they slipped. Decided just to re-install the 14mm bolts in both holes and max out the camber at -2.8. That will have to do until I can get some camber plates.

smg1138: have you tried old trick of using loctite/fingernail polish/paint to "glue" bolts in place? For some it worked and they said bolts never slipped for them.

This thread on nasioc suggests strongly not to use aftermarket camber bolts at the top of the front, however your suggestion is to use the lower oem bolts at the top. Is this still not sacrificing strength as the lower bolts are thinner than the upper ones?
https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho....php?t=1590221

That's what I did, but they still slipped. I used the OEM 14mm bolt on top and the SPC lobed camber bolt on bottom. Not really sure why they slipped because I gave the alignment tech the torque specs for both bolts.

But isnt using the lower OEM 14mm bolt in the top spot still sacrificing strength as the OEM top bolt is thicker (~16mm)?

Hmm, I installed an SPC camber bolt on the bottom mount. After I got an alignment, -3 deg, I noticed that the right front wheel is a bit more hidden when compared to the left front wheel. When I took the wheels off, I noticed that the right wheel, the SPC tab was actually pointing inwards while the left wheel had it slightly pointed outwards-down.

Even though the camber is the same, the SPC bolt can push the whole wheel inwards or outwards while the slotted mount will compensate.

I have heard a rather large clunk when going over really sharp, huge bumps (on straight roads) on the right side, the side with the wheel that's more inwards. The left side has no issues. I thought it was the wheel hitting the spring but I'll look into the end link as well. I also ordered 25mm wheel adapters to see if it helps.

This only happens on OEM wheels and not my 17x8 +35 720form wheel.

Yeah that makes sense. After I installed them the bottom of the shock started hitting the endlinks near full lock. Think the SPC bolts must have moved the shock body more inside. I'm not a big fan of the design so I'm just going to stick with the OEM 14mm bolts on top and bottom until I can get camber plates.