New (to me) 2013 FR-S - What should I do for reliability?
 

Hey guys,

Just got an FR-S -- LOVE driving it so far. 52k miles, I had bought it without researching year models, thinking that nothing changed between 2013-2016.
That being said, I have done quite a bit of searching and reading on issues that the 2013 FR-S might experience. I want to autocross it but just want to make sure I have everything in best possible shape before I do. I would like to know if I am missing anything as well as some clarity on some things.

-Direct injector seals, I read that if the VIN starts with "J" that this isn't an issue?

-Tune issues, should I just buy an OFT with zero mods?

-Oil pan baffle? Is this a must? Haha...I'm afraid to take a left turn hard!

Anything else I should know about? I'm totally willing to throw some money at the car to give my self some piece-of-mind while driving it hard (with spun rod bearings haunting my thoughts).

Thanks!
-John

Just do the maintenance like oil changes and the car should be fine.

All of these cars start with J so they are made in Japan.

What's the build date (located on driver door jamb)?

Likely should get a tune being a MY13, but build date will tell us for sure. If there is damage to the DI seals already it wont fix that but can help prevent future damage by not running a crappy tune.

Then do maintenance as scheduled.

Manufactured in 06/12.

Definitely get a tune

Okay, OFT on the way! Any opinion on the oil pan baffle?

Unless you plan on tracking with super sticky tires, meh.

Leaving it alone is best for reliability. Aftermarket stuff is no longer in beta stage which is a good thing but nothing like good ol oem parts.

This^
Even though there are loads of guys running around with modded cars that work perfectly fine the more you change the more risk you introduce. Work within your accepted level of risk.

OOOOOOOOOF, 6/12? damn. I thought my 6/13 was an early production 13... lul


Anyways, get a tune. but I don't reccomend OFT.


OFT uses what an "off the shelf" tune. It's like a one size fits all, except in this case if the shoe doesn't fit it might cost you a motor.

Get a EcuTek and get a real tune, OR just get your ECU updated with the newest flash from your dealer. If your production is that early you should be eligible for a free reflash due to rough idle tsb.

Keep in mind, this is a SUBARU. not a TOYOTA no matter what your vin says or who mails you your bill every month. that being said, these cars can not be maintained or driven like your average Toyota beater. Take care of her and she'll take care of you. Let her warm up before you dog the hell out of her, check the oil once a week and dont let your oil changes go past 4k miles and enjoy the car lmao

Get the updated tune if not already done


Don't hold down the clutch pedal if not necessary to extend TOB life


Check your coolant tank regularly and top off, disappearing coolant is known issue


Change oil at recommended intervals, check oil level often



Only use premium gas, I recommend from reputable gas stations instead of 'cheap' brands

The best thing you can do is keep it stock.
For autox all you need is seat time.
Then later proper tires and a dedicated set of wheels so your not burning up tires.
People say get a tune, I say you can spend that money on better tires.

When his DI seals fail and the motor goes kaput new tires aint gonna help much lol

Oil does not need to be changed every 4k miles. It may be a Subaru but it aint a turbo one.

And if OFT was costing people motors Im pretty sure there would be plenty of threads on it by now. Just like the absurd amount if posts about the car being "cursed". Many companies use OTS canned tunes without blowing motors, like Openflash/Vishnu or Cobb with the AcessPort. They tend to make the tune safer so it just has less power then a custom tune.

Going the TSB route for an updated tune is an option should his car show those symptoms. Im a 4/2012 build and never had those problems.

OP you could ask them to disable to DRL which there is a TSB that calls for ECU replacement since it then screws up your highbeams. Itll cost you the labor for them switching the DRL off which should be .5-1 hr depending on the dealer.

I am also a new owner of a 2013. What are the symptoms of failing direct injector seals?

Typically if you find that usually, almost always, but sometimes never occurring during regular operation of motor vehicle, maybe when if automobile is driven, the event of failure of which resulted in possibly many other failures or simply a factory defect, the car can sometimes inhibit like symptoms of irregular operation, but can also, within abnormal intervals, display exceeding performance of automotive transportation devices abilities from a distantly fortuitous use of the throttle when in a rare, yet, often re-imagined state of mind practiced by the average human being, in which, this anthropoid may feel enjoyment, excitement, bliss, splendor, arousal and so on; mimic'd by other hominids capable of complete and effective usage of said motorcar.

































You should probably just google it.

"Keep in mind, this is a SUBARU. not a TOYOTA no matter what your vin says or who mails you your bill every month. that being said, these cars can not be maintained or driven like your average Toyota beater. Take care of her and she'll take care of you. Let her warm up before you dog the hell out of her, check the oil once a week and dont let your oil changes go past 4k miles and enjoy the car lmao"

One of the truest statements in the last 5 years imo. This ain't a Corolla. Just ask the Toyota techs who screwed up on my first short block warranty.

Or as James May would say... It offers a fizzy feeling in your pants.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41130

Read through that thread for proper information posted by CSG mike at some point.

The man issue was a tune problem, the remedy output by toyota for those effected was a new tune and replacing any previously damaged injector seals. For future models built and as a preventative effort for current ones they updated the tunes via a TSB for most owners effected. You can check with a dealer if this TSB was performed but most of them give issue with flashing updated tunes to out of warranty cars.

Any OFT tune comes pre-loaded as well as most ecutek tunes with the DI fix baked in, if you dealer refuses to update your tune and it does turn out your car is effected and in the risk zone, you can always look into buying an OFT and flashing a stage 1 tune on there.


1) Look at the above answer with the thread post of the infamous issue, as well as TSB posted in that same thread

2) OFT stage 1 91 or 93 tune will be useful piece of mind as it would come baked in with the DI fix, also you'd get an extra or two like flat foot shift and launch control and a smoother idle. But it isn't completely necessary, chances are if your car is high mileage enough the DI thing isn't a problem


3) Bottomline, do your maintenance and such on time and you will be fine, also I don't know whose been saying oil baffling is necessary but it really isn't unless your a hardcore track or autocross nut who's turn up your corner Gs with a better tire and wheel setup.




You have some in your post. The one size fits "all" statement is technically true but there is no case of an engine blowing up with OFT shiv has tuned them pretty conservatively to be more than safe for the cars, and I dare you to find one case where it did blow up. An ecutek tune suggests he'd get his car dynoed for simple bolt ons or less which is completely unnecessary for our cars. I don't see it feasibly affordable to get your FRS/BRZ dyno tuned if all you're going to run is a header/exhaust/intake or a stock stage 1 tune, there is no real risk with an OFT tune or ecutek e-tune. He won't be eligible for a free reflash if his car is out of warranty, TSBs are not equated to recalls they will not do TSBs unless it is in the warranty period. With that you'd deal with how nice the dealer is and if they'll do it for free or not, but a preventative re-flash will still cost a tech labor time that won't be reimbursed by toyota like it would normally in warranty with a TSB.

Also 4000 mile oil changes have been proven to be a waste of money, 100s of people on this forum have been getting oil analysis done and it's factually proven that the OEM 6000-7500 mile interval is fine with the synthetic oil this car calls for, assuming you're not doing track work or running E85

https://i.imgur.com/I0hxJwS.gif

Thanks man, appreciate it.