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Hub Centrics
So i've lost my hub centrics, what size do i need ?
I run xxr's 550 17x8.5 Wheel bore is 73mm if im correct, just need clarification. Thanks. |
Do you have a receipt from when you bought them?
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You dont need any.
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Hub bore is 56.1 17x8.5 is a rare size. :cheers: |
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Wrong. You cannot locate the wheel reliably using the lug seats. Bolt circle tolerances don't work that way. |
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Flat seat lugs would be an issue, but conical (spherical) or tapered seats are 100% fine. http://www.agcoauto.com/content/imag...ug_designs.jpg |
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Yes, a hubcentric ring will help support the wheel on the hub and make sure it is centered better than just the lug nuts. However, will using only the lug nuts to keep the wheel centered work? Yes, and you probably won't have an issue, depending on usage. It's just less robust. |
Hub Centrics
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I'm not worried about the conical seats. The hole pattern in the hub is not nearly as accurate as the surface of the hub bore, hence why I mentioned bolt circle tolerances. I've used conical lugs without a hubcentric ring and gotten significantly vibrations in the wheel. I'd rather use the hub surface if it was designed for it. |
What kind of shitty wheels are you guys using that a spherical lug hole wheel needs to be hubcentric to avoid vibrations?
My stock miata wheels aren't hubcentric and work perfectly. I can't imagine an OEM would use non-hubcentric wheels if it was going to be such shit. |
Hub Centrics
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Volk TE37s. Maybe I'm just anal and what is a significant vibration for me isn't for most people. |
Sometimes disbalance might come also from other unnoticed reasons. For example if tire on wheel is non remounted/rebalanced for years, some uneven wheel/tire wear/damage or fix/patch w/o rebalance, or if some balancing wheels happened to fall off at some point, if one tightens lug nuts in wrong order not in cross/star fashion. By my experience in most cases even without spigot center rings lugcentric wheels itself always centered right with properly tightened lug nuts on all cars/wheels i had so i'd rather blame other reasons as more possible. Though then again hub rings are cheap, so one's budget won't be broken if one buys them for ease of mounting and some piece of heart/extra ensurance. Just that imho they are not must have/mandatory on lug centric wheels, but cheap nice to have extra.
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I never used hubcentric rings back in he day. Then one car I had needed them, and I had to wait to get them. Now I always get them. They do not cost much, and can save a big headache.
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If you're properly torquing down wheels (wheel in the air, star pattern a bit at a time), the wheel will absolutely center itself. If you set the car down before the lugs are seated properly, then you'll definitely get a wobble. Going into my 6th summer with the car running RPF1's without centering rings, no vibrations ever. |
If you google it, it does answer pretty much all the stuff you're looking for.
This site shows XXR 550 specs. Which show what size centerbore is. Member already answered stock hub bore size in the post. With that info go to Amazon or eBay to search hubcentric ring: "(wheel centerbore)mm to (hub bore)mm". |
My rings are made out of aluminum.
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Same. Plastic hub rings are bullshit. |
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Yes. If it wasn't necessary to have the wheel centered on the hub bore, the OEMs wouldn't bother with it. The lug bores have tolerances in them and they are much looser than those in the hub bore. I don't claim to know the OEMs internal requirements, but if the car was designed with hubcentric wheels in mind, I use them. |
And how do you decide if car was designed with hubcentric wheels in mind, given that our cars have conical lug seats like most lugcentric wheels? I'd get your argument if stock lug nuts on twins had been flat head ones instead of spherical or conical like they are. OEMs order making (in our case from Enkei) wheels in big batches. They can order/customise making it to whatever specs they can, it won't affect price. That can reduce unprobable but some misinstallations. But still, that too doesn't sound to me that "car was designed with hubcentric wheels in mind", nor that those rings are mandatory/must have for properly installed aftermarket lugcentric wheels with larger then stock axle bore size to cover more cars with same size wheel made in much smaller volumes by order or two then OEM stock ones.
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On today's topic. A bunch of people who may have or may have not changed a wheel in their lives are suddenly experts at the matter.
:popcorn: By your standarts, my wheels should've fallen off, broken the studs, or vibrated the car to pieces? Want to take a guess at how many times I change my wheels per year? How many of those were done with hub centric rings? Or how many have fallen off or have weird vibrations? :iono: |
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I didn't make any of those claims. People have different thresholds of what they consider a significant vibration. There's a reason why most cars, and every luxury car is hubcentric. It just works better than lugcentric. Bolt groups require looser tolerances than a single bore, that's just how they work. This discussion is moot anyway, either you won't notice, or you'll think it's annoying, in which case get hub rings. |
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Your argument about the tolerances on the lug holes is moot because the taper seat takes care of that. It doesn't matter that the hole through the wheel is larger than the stud, the lug seats properly and holds it perfectly centered. I have zero tolerance for vibrations, and I get none at all without rings. I can feel the slight vibration caused by picking up loose chunks of rubber on a track, so it's not like I'm numb to what is happening at the wheels. |
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Obviously if someone don't know what they are doing, it's easier to messed up with no hubcentric or no centering ring, but that doesn't mean it's necessary. By the way I almost always use centering ring because it slightly easier and for peace of mind. But them being in plastic, it's not really them who are doing the centering. |
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