Differential Temperature
 

Thought I'd post this up as informational. I was curious as to the temperature that my diff was reaching, mainly because I've put in the MFactory mechanical LSD and want to make sure I'm not going to toast it on the track.. The fluid that I use is Torco RTF and the viscosity of that fluid goes down quite a bit after 220F.

Anyway, I installed a new cover and added a temp gauge and so far under both normal and canyon driving I've hardly been over 140F..

I'll update this thread once I get back out on the track as I KNOW I'm harder on the car there than the canyons.. to paranoid in canyons..

Good info, thanks for sharing.

which cover did you install?

FWIW, I overheated my OS Giken at the track... this is with the Cusco diff cover. My setup is a bit extreme though: 5.29:1 final drive, 11k engine RPM. This was before adding an external cooler and temp probe.

what engine was turning 11k?!

3.0L Synergy V8

I tried this one out. I had to notch some of the fins off to clear the Perrin exhaust.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/SICKSPEED-P...FWgXlJ&vxp=mtr

I love your build!

I'm rocking a 4.88 FD... and no v8... and no 11k... but what cooler and pump did you install?

Tilton oil pump and Setrab 1-13. We'll see how it fares!

@mkivsoopra can now pass miata's with ease!

woohoo!

Another question, what temp were you seeing when it overheated, do you know?

Unfortunately, no, I don't know. My LSD was stuck locked while on track. When it cooled down, it seemed ok again, but it permanently became an open diff after that.

This is not good :( has anyone with stock gearing/stage 2 motor experienced this or its because of 'power' and speedier ratio?

Cheers,

Lutfy

If you're not seeing track time I wouldn't worry about it overheating.. He's got a pretty extreme setup..

Au contraire. The car hardly sees the street.

Or sees .. from above the trailer? :)

Yikes! Then you may want to monitor that shit! Can I assume you have an OS Giken diff as well? Or do you have a different mechanical LSD?

Does OS Giken have a lifetime warranty? Or did they help at all with replacing it?

Will most likely have to pay OSG to rebuild it, but not sure yet. I'm in the middle of swapping in a new unit right now.

OSG is really good at telling people to get bent. had a friend kill two of their diffs in a E46 ZHP and they told him sorry, sucks to be you and we know its garbage.

Good to know! Now I don't feel so bad for not buying one! I was under the impression they were the bees knees!!

They might be better on this platform. The only other OSG part i know of being used is a quad disk clutch in a friends 1200whp supra. it seems to do well.

What are your impressions of the cover so far? happen to have pictures of it installed?

Definitely serves it's purpose! For the price it works great.. I didn't want to buy the Greddy or Cusco and then have to cut it up.. plus this part doesn't require R&D like a header..

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/w8...azYsJbEA=w2400

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-y...TRW_TTQw=w2400

A properly configured LSD will last quite awhile and will be consistent.

What diff do you guys run? Any cooling added? Do you think the OS-Giken just couldn't handle the JUN V8 with higher FD?

We have used units including Tomei, Kaaz, Cusco, ATS, OS Giken, Guard, and some Drexler types. Cooling is dependent on how the diff is put together and what your application is. Setup configuration is important to consistency and reliability for its intended application. :cheers:

Do you guys have any data showing different temperature ranges for different setups? And what I mean by setups are changes to preload and lock capacity within mechanical LSD's. I'd be curious to see the effects of different driven/drive friction plate combinations on temperature!

I set my MFactory up myself and have enjoyed the way it engages and reacts. I also had all the plates WPC treated before putting it all together.

David I trust your judgement. I have recently installed a tuned (to my spec from OSGiken) clutch type diff with stock gearing with a stock casing. Stage 2 running Hoosier R7. Car will be TT mostly with occasional DE (testing or such). Is the diff cover required for our cars or an overkill?

I dont mind installing it if the stock cover and fluid capacity is a bottle neck for my NA application. But dont want to put it just because..... @CSG Mike

TIA!!!

Lutfy

Each driver and setup generates different amounts of heat, so unless one of those becomes static (typically driver), the data is purely anecdotal and ultimately not too useful.

As a general rule, if it's not slipping, it's not creating heat.

I'm not exactly sure what you're asking. A larger diff cover is an increase in heat capacity, but also means you have to shed more heat afterwards. Unless you're endurance racing, it's generally enough, short of a unique setup.

I use a GReddy diff cover.

Thanks Mike! Definitely understand that everyone is different and will generate different levels of heat in their differential. Also agree with the not generating as much heat if not slipping, I think there is always some level of friction generating heat when the car is in motion.

Did you notice any overheating without the GReddy diff cover? Or was it precautionary?

With my particular setup, yes. The GReddy adds enough capacity that I can do 50 minute sessions without overheating the fluid now.

Nice! Do you plan on adding a cooler?

Not at this time

Quick update -

I did my first track day with the cover and temp gauge. I saw temps up to ~205F. On the highway up the temperature was between 150-160F.

To give you an idea of my setup as well, I was out on the track for 30 minutes with slicks (245 40R17 continentals) and I was on this track - http://highplainsraceway.com/

Overall I think it's within the limits of the fluid (currently running Torco RTF). I'll probably still take @ATL BRZ advice and switch to Miller Oils for Engine/Tranny/Diff. I'll add it to the never ending list... :D

Great information, thanks for sharing!

Does the diff cover have a gasket or did you use a tube of something?
Does the diff need to be fully removed to install the new cover?

Diff covers don't use pre-made gaskets, you use RTV or some other liquid gasket material and no, you don't have to remove the differential to replace the cover, if you're referring to the carrier itself, then I would say yes, it's a good idea to remove it from the car to replace the cover, otherwise it'll be super hard to get the cover off and get sealant where it needs to be.

As others have stated on here before though, if you are going to take the carrier off, be really careful with the 2 bolts that face upward! They cross thread very easily.. I've had mine off many times and I cross threaded it once. Had to buy a tap in that size and clean up the threads along with a new bolt.