Flippin Dip Stick!
 

Hi guys,

I'm coming up on an oil change so I tried checking my oil level. I don't remember having this issue before but I can not read the oil level on my dip stick to save my life. I've tried checking when the car is completely cold, letting it sit for 5-10 minutes after a warm-up cycle, and also after parking from a cruise (also after giving the oil time to settle). And yes, I've made sure the car is sitting on a flat surface. I've even tried checking while the car is sitting in three different level areas (driveway, garage, and parking garage at work).

I've tried etching into the dipstick to give it more grip on the oil, but it seems EVERY time I pull it out, the oil is on the edge of the stick and not at all on the surface. I've wiped it off, reinserted the dip stick and when I pull it out, the flat part is completely dry to the touch while the oil sticks to the edge. If I check the opposite side, it's also completely dry with no oil whatsoever, even on the edge. I've also tried turning the dipstick 90 degrees before inserting but I get enough resistance that it's obvious it only wants to go in at a certain angle. I also tried 180 degrees from where it was (proper angle, just opposite side of the stick) as it's very slightly bent, but still no luck.

I was paranoid that maybe I was running dry, so I tried filling a small amount (about 1/10 of a quart) and I can see the oil level rise accordingly on the dipstick (reading from the edge). Now I'm even more paranoid because if that oil level is accurate while it's showing on the edge of the dipstick, then I am now OVER the limit. (See pic)

Just to clarify, on my last oil change, I was able to read the dipstick properly after filling up and was just under the FULL dot. Filled with EXACTLY 5.7 qt of Redline 0W20. I've already tried searching the forums and I see others have had this same issue where it only shows on the edge of the stick but I haven't seen any way to get a proper reading.

It's embarrassing to not be able to check my own oil level. lol. HALP!

It has to be checked warm. So run the car, wait 5 minutes, check. Flat surface. Check both sides of the stick. This is very important. The lowest reading is the true reading.

If there's no oil in the drilled through holes, You're running way low.
The curve in the tube at the bottom puts it in at an angle. Won't be level across the width of the stick.
Should be readable if there's actually oil in it.
There will always be oil on the tube walls that will scrape out on the edges.
Unless it's reeeel empty.

I have ran into the same situation myself when I first changed the oil on my FRS lol.

I did the same exact procedures you have done and still can't accurately read where my oil level is. I had at least 2 other people with me to double check my oil level to give me peace of mind.

Add little by little, to see if there is any difference on the dip stick rather than adding too much and have to drain the oil again. I recommend having a fumoto oil drain valve for this situation and for easy oil changes.


I think following the owner's manual on how much oil should be put in should help. There is also a dipstick that ft86sf offers that they say would give the "most accurate" reading if that is what you want.

Hope this halps! :thumbsup:

Looks to me that the dip stick is not "dipping" into the oil in the pan which means you're either not on a level surface or you are running very low. Do that oil change ASAP and measure how much oil you actually drain out.

That's what I'm afraid of. I just don't see how I can be so critically low. My last oil change was maybe 5k miles ago, I have no leaks and I'm not burning oil. I'm tempted to just flush and fill tonight but the oil filter is still on its way. Would changing the filter post-fill be okay? I'm trying to avoid oil starvation and the dreaded spun rod bearing.

One of these might help? http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/supe...2013-ft86.html

bcj is right on, no oil in the hole at the bottom - you are very low.
It sounds like you do not check on a regular basis, if you wait for the light it is almost too late.

None that you know of....

I almost bought that drain valve but I wasn't sure if it was magnetic. I like to see how much metal has built up, so I have a magnetic drain plug (no valve).

As far as FT86SF's dip stick, from what I can tell it just has a button that relieves the pressure caused by the O-Ring. I think unscrewing the oil fill cap has the same effect, but I'm no expert. It also seemed a bit overpriced for a dip stick, so I didn't give into it.

Allright, you guys scared me enough. haha. Will be draining it tonight and the filter will just have to get replaced when it comes tomorrow. I don't want to wait any longer in case it really is that low. Will post with an update.

I would add oil right away asap. Check the oil level and ensure your at the right level. Then do an oil change. If you can't or don't want to waste oil then buy a 5q jug of oil and a single quart bottle. Drain completely then refill with the entire 5q jug and about half the quart. Manual calls for 5.7quarts I believe. Then run car and sit for 5 and re check, get in the habit of checking your oil weekly or by weekly.
My personal tip is Walmart online seems to have great prices on oil, I always buy from there.

True, if the full 5.7 qt doesn't drain out, I'll look around a bit more.

I feel like it would have to be dripping from the drain plug for me to not notice and I did torque it to spec when I did the last change. I checked the common leak spots for the 2013s. Don't know the name of the part, but one is here: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...t=26197&page=2

And the other is the base of the dip stick holder itself. If there are any other common leak areas for 2013s, someone please let me know so I can inspect those as well.

@Tcoat page

You're replacing the crush washer in the drain plug? If no, chance that's the cause. First see how much oil drains... But I'm in the camp of "it's low"

If you weren't planning on changing the oil, just add a qt. and check again.
If same, repeat.

pricey for what it is, but i've been thinking of getting it anyway because reading the stock dipstick kind of sucks

Your low bro.
Or on an unlevel surface.
That's only two (possible) reasons why you can't read your dipstick

..in my experience checking the oil level through the dipstick for the twins is pretty hit or miss, kinda just tells you whether there's oil or not.. if you know how much you put in on the last oil change and you know there isn't a leak then i wouldn't be too worried and take that dipstick reading as good.

Rub dipstick with scotchbrite.

Run engine for 5 min.

PARK ON LEVEL GROUND.

Shut engine off, pull dipstick.

Let sit for 3 minutes.

Insert dipstick, pull out dipstick

Read both sides, lowest side is right.

you shouldn't be seeing a significant amount of metal on a magnetic drain plug at all. 90% of the FA20 engine is non-ferrous metals so they aren't magnetic.

My recommendation for you here is to get the Fumoto valve, and send a sample to Blackstone for analysis when you do change the oil.

Had to google that and obviously had to buy one. Hahaha.

Thanks for the tip!

If you're really serious about ferrous metals in the oil,
get some neodymium magnets to put on the outside of the oil filter.
It all gets stuck in the filter and you can re-use them on the next filter.

I installed one on every single car I owned and it makes oil changes a breeze, and way less messy. Pro tip for the BRZ though, get the one without the nipple, I believe its the "s" designation for short. The nipple sticks out below the metal cover and gets hit by debris.

I read a review on Amazon that it sticks out 3-5mm past the engine cover on the FRS. So I went with the SX that has the really short nipple. I thought about going without a nipple but I live right off a river so the wind rips at my house most days and makes a mess when changing the oil. Hopefully the stuby version doesn't come past the cover.

My workaround is a clear flexible plastic tube that fits snugly around the end of the valve without a nipple, and doesn't interfere with the valve switch operation. drain that straight into my oil receptacle.

F108S for the win!

Bring in the cavalry! XD

I did do this on the last change but almost forgot those need to be changed as well. Picked one up from the dealer last night. Thanks for the reminder.


The problem with this is not knowing how much was in there. I was scared of overfilling, so I just swapped it out.


I DID have a bit of gunk buildup on the OEM plug when I swapped it out. I did all my fluid swaps first thing when I got the car. This is now my second oil change, and no gunk on the new drain plug. I would send in the oil but I'm lazy and overwhelmed with work to put in that effort.

Interesting, never heard of this one but it makes sense. Would this restrict the oil flow?

That's a shame, I love nipples. :lol:


Allright, here's the verdict. I swapped the oil out last night. There was still quite a bit in there, but I'm sure we'd all agree it's considered low for these cars. I had about ~4.8 qt drain out and it was pretty dark. There were no signs of leaks whatsoever. I took off the under panel and there wasn't single drop to be found. I guess these cars just eat oil? My driving habits: DD, no track use, daily stop-n-go commute both ways in LA traffic so I don't even get to open it up all that often, but I do drive "spiritedly" on the weekends when there's less traffic. I could count on one hand how many times I've taken it to redline. I WAS checking my oil often after my first change but will admit it's been a good 4-5 weeks since the last time I looked. I know, I know, shame on me. Life just got in the way.

I guess considering how much oil was missing, I might cut my oil change intervals in half. I was going by the recommended 7500 mile interval, but it was 5k since my last change and it looks like it was overdue. Also going to add the Fumoto Drain Valve to my wishlist for the next change since I'll be doing them more often. I did like the Greddy Mag Plug while I used it, but seeing that there was no gunk on it this time, quicker swaps seem like the better deal.

I also experimented with the dip stick a bit more since I knew it was full. I can get a proper reading now, but it's not consistent. I still get oil only showing on the edge sometimes, following the exact same steps. I'm going to look into reviews before buying FT86SF's dip stick. I usually shop from them the most, but that dip stick just seems way overpriced.

Thanks for all the help everyone! I didn't want to seem like a total noob since this isn't my first oil change, but this flippin dip stick had me stumped. :thanks:

Modern engines are designed to burn a bit of oil for the sake of longevity and mpg. Just check it every week or two and top up when it's near the low mark.

Also, always wipe your dipstick. :thumbsup:

Alsoalso, this seems familiar...
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=119993

Actually I went back and looked at my order. I didn't get the SX I got the S.

There are these versions:
F108: No nipple
F108N: Long nipple (this is the one that I read goes past the cover)
F108S: Short nipple
F108SX: This one has a short nipple but is at a 90

I'm thinking I should have gotten the SX. Oh well, too late now.

So, does the F108S extent past the engine cover? I really hope not, that sounds like a recipe for disaster. From your picture it looks like it is safely recessed.

Oh yeah, can you confirm that you are pulling the dipstick out, wiping it clean with a paper towel, then reinserting it, removing it, and taking a visual reading at that point?

Also you mentioned color a few times, the color of the oil doesn't have anything to do with the life of or "capacity" left in the oil.

That's the one I have. It does not as I recall. I'll confirm when I get into my garage tonight to check.

Nope

Never got the notice but doesn't look like I caould do more than repeat what has been said anyway.

This ^ alway do this. A mildly abraded dipstick is a happy dipstick.

This as well ^ If you are getting loads of chunks of ferrous metals on a magnetic plug you already are too late to do much.

Not sure what the benefit would be. If the metal is large enough to make it to the filter then it will get ... well.. filtered. If too small for the filter to grab it isn't causing any issue anyway.

That was my thought. Looks like the dipstick when you initially pull it out. Still could be low though

Perfect. Thanks for the info!

'cause... Magnets yo!

They would catch particles going past and keep them there,
though wouldn't have any effect at all on aluminum, brass, bronze or gasket snot.
So not much really.

I did say "REALLY SERIOUS". Someone who was convinced it works gave me some.
They're still in the box on a shelf.

No. Wouldn't restrict flow at all.

I check after parking my car overnight.

Pull dipstick, wipe
Insert dipstick the same way you pulled it out (Otherwise the dipstick will not show correct mark)
Wait a second or 2
Pull out dipstick, making sure not to allow oil to move up dipstick
Read the side of dipstick with lower reading that the entire width is covered

There will be some slight oil along the edge of the dipstick due to dipstick going in and out

If there is oil in the 'low oil' hole then you at least have oil at the min mark