I/H/E/ Parts For My 2018 BRZ tS. Help!
 

I have a deposit down for a 2018 Subaru BRZ tS. The first thing I am going to do is I/H/E/Tune.

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Intake: Grimmspeed CAI - $330.00
Reason: To get rid of the sound generator and clean up the engine bay.

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Header: JDL UEL (Black Finish) - $849.00
Reason: I want the boxer rumble and a quality header with good welds that will hold up over time.

https://jdlautodesign.net/wp-content...-Res-MBBBB.jpg

Over Pipe / Front Pipe: JDL OP/FP Combo (Dual Resonated) - $849.00
Reason: I want to use the same company as my header. There is no emission testing in the state that I live in so I do not need a catalytic converter. However, I do not want any raspy'ness so I am opting for dual resonators in the front pipe.

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Exhaust: FT-86 SpeedFactory V1 (Resonated) - $880.00
Reason: I've watched many YouTube videos and customer testimonials and believe this will be a quality exhaust to use with the rest of my parts. I am getting it resonated so it will reduce any chance of raspy'ness.

http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/medi...tablet-3_1.jpg

Tuning: Openflash Tuning - $499.00
Reason: Easy tuning solution with good Off-The-Shelf Tunes.

Total will come out to around $3,400.

Do you think this is a good setup? Will I have any issues with fitment with a 2018 model year? Do you think 3 resonators are overkill for raspy'ness?

Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Bro, actually wait for the car to come out first. Who knows, that shit might not fit the 18. And you’re not going to buy all of that once. Wait for car to come out first, do research which parts will fit then purchase.

What was the point to buy tS on first place? I mean if i buy something tuned by subaru technica international i probably leave stock for a few years or so and start mod it whatever i dont like imo. If would mod it right off the bat, why not buy the early model?

Get the catted over-frontpipe. It'll smell less, be a bit quieter, and not hurt performance.

If you were after max gains or noise, or hard racing, then maybe. But otherwise I'd keep a HFC.

Also will out in a plug for the JDL D² exhaust. I used it with ultra-quiet over-frontpipe (with a Nameless header) in 3" and really liked it. Considering a different route on the new car since the header didn't make it and is hard to find... But likely I'll keep it.

Not sure OFT has shipped their 17+ tunes publicly. That's the only possible wrench in the works.

I guess you don't remember what the air quality was like in the 1970's before catalytic converters. Just because you don't have emissions testing doesn't mean that you shouldn't have one.

Just go with the full HKS catalog!

sell me the wheels first i know they are too narrow for you

From the research that I did, it is the same as the 2017 model year. As long as all the parts fit the 2017 MY, it should fit the 2018 MY.

The point is to find a sporty replacement for my old 2008 Honda Civic Si Coupe.

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The BRZ tS has a re-tuned suspension system, 18-inch wheels, Michelin Pilot Sport tires, and better brakes. STI did nothing to the engine and the FT86 has an infamous torque dip. I am attempting to mitigate that first and foremost with a proper full exhaust and tune.

Thanks for all your advice! I tried to find some YouTube videos of the JDL D² exhaust but I could not find any. :(

90's kid master race checking in. j/k

I am so used to not having catalytic converters on my motorcycles when I get a full exhaust that I don't second guess ripping it out of my cars when I get them.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8339/...38b57bfc_o.jpg
My 2012 Ducati 848 Evo with Akrapovic exhaust

Price is $2,805. It comes with an EL header. I prefer to get an UEL header. I also could not find a YouTube video with someone running their full exhaust. :(

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I am keeping the wheels, brakes, and suspension stock.

Have you even driven the BRZ? The torque dip is way overblown and really not as bad as people make it out to be.

I test drove one 4 years ago. It was a quick test drive but to be honest I don't really remember the driving dynamics. What I do remember is how driver-centric the car was and I loved it.

The torque dip is not the only reason. I also like to hear my cars and since this is my first proper Subaru, I want to hear that boxer rumble.

So the boxer rumble that's being phased out of every single modern Subaru? Makes sense.

The torque dip is not overblown. Once I heard about the dip and took the engine beyond 5000 rpm I could no unfeel the torque dip. With a full exhaust and tune torque dip is gone. Car no longer starts wheezing at 3000 rpm and torque delivery is much smoother

imo OP's mods are reasonable and well researched. The ts version from what I've gathered makes improvements to how the car handles and OP is trying to fix or optimize power delivery and the sound the car makes. The best thing you can say about the stock sound is that it is boring. The only thing I'd worry about is if the exhaust hangers for the catback don't fit the 2017+ model year cars.

Also I'd skip the cold air intake unless you want that good S U C C

Why would you be driving in the torque dip for any kind of fun driving? Kind of defeats the purpose of a car that needs you to wring the engine for everything it's worth, and you can't do that if you're below 4k

Why even have a torque dip when you can easily get rid of it?

Because fuel efficiency?

but the car was designed to be enjoyed above 5k rpm

its nots bloody v8 lol

I hate to break it to you dude, it's a Toyota through and through.

My gas mileage went up by about 2-2.5 mpg after cs400/ecutek.

So it got more fuel efficient? Sounds like you bought the wrong car entirely. What's the point of having a fun car that you're not driving like a fun car?

I don't understand. I added more hp to make a fun car more fun, and it also happens to get better mpg when I'm cruising.

You seem especially bitchy today. Did someone leave you a pile of coal under the tree this morning?

But it has the beating heart of a Subaru

Its almost as if fun is relative and subjective as opposed to concrete objective truth

Op imho I like where your going with your set up. My suggestions don’t get the intake instead just replace the intake tube and put a drop in high flow air filter. You will see better gains, lose the noise maker and clean up the engine bay while saving $$. Second nameless headers are good ACE headers might be better and alpha sunk2 are good as well. Keep the high flow cat. I would look in to FUJITSUBO AUTHORIZE R CATBACK (POLISHED TIP) - 2013+ FR-S / BRZ / 86 for the exhaust. Stay with the oft tune is awesome. My biggest recommendation is first break in your car properly follow all your breakin from the book!! Then after about 4-7k start with the mods slowly with the intake. Don’t touch anything else till after 7000 miles. I would recommend changing the oil after 3000 miles. Then again at the first scheduled change. A magnetic oil plug is always a good idea. I don’t know your climate but if you can I would suggest going to 0w30 or 5w30 for longevity and better pressure possibly an oil cooler down the road if your going to track it or drive it hard. Keep us posted.

Torque dip really is over blown & isn't as bad as you think unless all you do is lots pulls between traffic light. It's not like you gonna win with the dip removed anyway. lol... Oh & it doesn't really matter what they tell you, they can fix most of the dip, but it will still be kind there. You can feel it even with tune, it's just not in your face anymore.

*Get a tune all you want with E85 thou, car does needs it especially if you don't drive the car that much. But know that torque dip is just gonna be not as prominent after the tune.

Stock tune is just really good for fuel efficient.... i drove from vegas to seattle in 4 tanks of gas & all I did was set the cruise control on 86miles most of the way. lol



I would say just leave the stock intake, but get a different intake duct for intake sound.

If you have to have rumble, HKS UEL is really good & is "designed for sound" .......other then that any long tube uels is gonna sound amazing along with fujitsubo authrize R keeping everything civilized.

The torque dip is definitely a main issue with this car, but seriously... buy a decent catback, save the money until you go FI. NA gains with this car are pathetic so just gear everything you do with forced induction in mind.

Personally, I wouldn't modify a tS car. If I wanted to make changes, then I would buy a base car or one with the power package.

It's completely subjective. If it bothers someone there's no need to live with it just because someone else thinks they should ignore it's there.

Read my whole paragraph, thanks dude.

I have complete exhaust/intake setup with tune myself if that answers your question.

Read it already. It doesn't change a thing.

No, If torque dip is really that huge of an issue. Turbo is 4k, why spend 2.5k on your intake exhaust/tune.... :slap:

you are not gonna change how this engine is like NA, there is no magical "removing torque dip".......unless you get something like ace header, but op wants UEL.

You didn't read my paragraph, you just thought you read about it. :sigh:

Or maybe you just don't understand what you post, because nothing can qualify your opinion that "the torque dip really is over blown [sic]" as anything but subjective.

DUDE!!!! I literally have this EXACT setup hahaha. See my build thread in signature. I love it. Only thing missing is the overpipe and front pipe.

Ace header + Ecutek would cost you less than that, and net you more power.

https://i.imgur.com/Rb0XQ6Z.jpg

As the final part of my build for a daily, I plan to go supercharger anyway. I feel happier doing small gradual, piece-by-piece updates over 4 months.

After that, I won't mind waiting around 4-5 months for one piece. Sure, I know I could have only been $400 away from a Sprintex/Innovate 210 if I hadn't spent the money on I/H/E/T, but I like the slow and consistent progression I've done so far.

In the end, I'm going to have it all anyway. :D




I have no life and nothing else to spend money on :(

No uel sounds :lol:

Hey, if you are NA. You gonna have torque dip. Plain and simple, tuned or not.....

To each of our own, I don't really think it's that big of an issue, but I'm just sharing my experience. Cause I buy into that crap ppl talked about on "internet".
All the tune does is more fuel and more timing early so you don't feel the dip as much simply cause there is more power everywhere but dip is always there if you are NA.

& I spent $ for it. 4-2-1 hearders check, front pipe check, Fujitsubo authrize R check. CAI check; intake duct check. *I also have an Apexi N1 evo with the tiny diffuser sitting in my storage... :(

Shit just intake/exhaust/tune i already spent over 6k if i brought them at msrp. :bs:


Did Torque dip disappear? NO ok? Now you see where I'm coming from?

Stock throttle mapping is just really laid back, that's why ppl get bother by the dip so much... :mad0259:



Problem with this car is that upgrades never stops. :cheers:

Sounds like you bought the wrong parts or have unrealistic expectations. My experience with headers and tune is that the torque "dip" is now imperceptible (~5 ft-lb dip from ~150 ft-lb vs. ~20 ft-lb dip from ~125 ft-lb). And this "dip" in my torque curve still puts me at about 20 ft-lb over the peak stock torque. And I get 2-2.5 mpg better on the highway. Moreover, it's much more fun to run the car through its mid-range now instead of having to deal with a dramatic dip or drive around it the dip. The car is much more enjoyable and I'm almost beyond words sitting here reading about an "overblown" stock torque dip that doesn't go away no matter what you do.

I/H/E/ Parts For My 2018 BRZ tS. Help!
 

Nono I do know what I am getting in. Since I got the car, I get something new very 4 months ish & it just slowly adds up over the last 3 years. I went with different exhaust again cause there was too much drones for me on the highway.

But I sorta got on the expensive side just because I believe in quality product.


I don’t know why you tell me about the drastic dip when you can just down shift.... for real.

And the dip is there anyway, if you are doing any serious driving you will be downshifting anyway isn’t it?


What is fun???


I think we all enjoy driving, but I think there are finite differences in how we drive. It’s just that base on your logic torque dip is so bad that you have to change it. I will tell you now I enjoy driving near redline for any serious driving at all times. The extra mid range torque actually only makes the car less fun for me, I just want more top end power.

And yes. I think tunes not aim for high rpm & top end power actually makes the car more boring and McDonald like. I don’t need you to tell me McDonald’s is nice. 👌I have a pretty small dip too. But is it a good change? I don’t think so.



Be real here, the only thing mid range torque benefits a car like the twin is stop and go traffic & long term engine wares on track.




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If you are worried about the torque dip the answer is E85 and Delicious. I would guess this would give you more bang for the buck of anything you have posted.