Problems at high milage?
 

So recently, ive been looking around for a gt86 and ive come across a couple that seem really nice, but with high milage, for example 90000 miles or so? My previous frs had only gotten to 21000 before i gave it to my sister, what are some generic problems an 86 would have at this high milage, i know everyone drives differently and different things break, and this is probably an impossible question to give a straight forward answer to, but what have you guys seen gave out most, through wear and tear? I just thought to get the communities opinion on an 90000 mile frs

not sure we've really seen enough to know. At 15k a year even the earliest cars are nearing 75k. There are probably a few higher but not enough to get anything near any working knowledge.

110K No issues. Only thing that has been changed is engine oil, tires and windshield wiper blades. Everything else is original. Plugs and TOB getting changed next week.

Loads of them with 100+ out there.
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=110955

Hello Zaraia and welcome to the forum ...... :clap:

That was nice of you to give your sister your FR-S.

OK, you're not stranger to this car, so you must know some of the problems some folks have had ........ although, I'm not convinced they are necessarily mileage related.

If I were looking for a high mileage FR-S, I'd stay away from any car that had heavy power mods (FI), or been tracked extensively.


humfrz

These cars are proving to be very reliable. As long as they are taken care of and proper maintenance is done, they should last a very long time :)

I'm at 70k and no issues so far. I did have to replace my TOB, while that was done I had my clutch replaced. My clutch felt okay before but later I realized it was much more worn that I thought. Other than that it's all good. Make sure regular oil changes have been done and 60k service was completed with everything on the list.

Just avoid anything built earlier then May 2013 (that was when the finally ditched the knocky tunes). But honestly there are are lots of options in that <60k for fairly cheap that might be more worth it to get one a little less used.

I got my FRS on the first shipment (5/31/12 pick up). 136k miles. I do tend to have a little knock here and there along with some blowby, but only when pushing the car hard. I have done a handful of Autox and just did my second track day (the first one was at 120k lol). I have been tuned on OFT for a while with full exhaust. I have an AT and tend to change it out early as the tranny seems to start shifting rough well short of the 60k mark. Nothing really major otherwise. When on stock Primacies I still get 30+ mpg on the highway.

For me was

At 60k

Fuel pump replaced (Not really an issue, just found the crickets annoying)

TOB replaced

And 5th gear synchros going bad


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What do you mean by knocky tunes?

Also, do you know when the coil packs were updated?

Lastly, I seem to hear a very faint knocking noise from the engine but it's only just started happening on these cold mornings. I haven't noticed it at all when the car is warmed up. It is very quiet. I've also noticed a little oil consumption, about half quart in about 5K miles. Car runs beautifully. Any ideas? You say your car knocks, isn't that really bad, like the motor is going out?

My March 13 seems to be working fine so far.
No ring lands or head gasket difficulties that plagued the 2.5 scooby engines.

The only things we've had to really complain about are social gaffes here on the forum.





oh, and mustangs

I'm about to hit 85k and my car has been fine. No issues so far besides the TOB and leaking valve cover but both have been fixed.

When he is referring to knock he is referred no to detonation. The knock I think you are referring to is rod knock. Obviously both are bad. Detonation will eventually lead to rod knock.

The early 2013 cars had a bad tune which caused detonation and was also causing the injector seals to go bad. This was fixed with a new tune which can be applied to any 2013.

Got the car on 11/1/12 and Im just over 75k. TOB failed and had leaking valve covers. Timing cover looks like it may be leaking as well. Ill fix it in the next month or so. I autox and track the car. Replaced spark plugs at ~70k. Trans and diff oil changed every year. Brake fluid changed a few times a year. Motor oil changed at the normal intervals unless a track day happened.

118,000 miles and no problems. The drivers side seat belt retractor is a little worn and the drivers side window seal has been funky since day one. And the transmission was replaced when it was new. Other than that, no problems at all.

117K miles, build date 2/2012, delivery Early May 2012.

Nothing I consider a real issue. Like @Tcoat mine is all original, including plugs, etc. (with the exception of fluids and tires). Well, I did have the fuel pump replaced under warranty just because I could (the cricket issue). Not really sure I had crickets.

I do have weepy tail lights and I most likely need brake pads (light just came on this AM for about 10 seconds).

The tail lights would be fixed by a new gasket I haven't installed yet, as I need to dry them out first.

Looking forward to at least another 150K miles out of it.

At roughly ~115k miles now. Did upgraded clutch at ~100k and now doing rotors/pads for the first time (upgrading those too), leaky boot on the differential so that's getting done, and finally needed a new battery. Other then that just been oil changes/wipers/tires/fluids as needed, these are reliable cars if you take care of them, no doubt.

https://www.consumerreports.org/car-...reliable-cars/ :party0030:

as long as the car drives fine and the gearbox feels good don't think there is much to worry about besides maintenance items..

^that's what I meant. I do not have rod knock but do have detonation at times but only under hard conditions. I monitor it and usually mixing in some 100 Oct fixes the problem (I'm in CA so this gets me to 93 Oct vs. the crappy 91 I got)



I don't know about the coil packs. I haven't loss one yet but now that I am tracking I am tossing it in with the wear items. Heat kills them from what I have seen.


I don't really have a ton of oil issues. My timing cover has been leaking for a while, but not bad enough to get it fixed. And the blowby is enough to measure in the catch can but not enough to see a loss between changes (I usually change my oil between 5k and 10k depending on what kind of driving I've been doing)


I do know a few other local owners who experience faint rod knock on cold start and they are around 60-70k miles on the car. Not sure how fast it is progressing for them though. Both of them track occasionally as well, like 3-4 times a year.

Thanks for the repiles guys. I'm hoping this discussion is helpful to OP.

I think my issue is more of a piston slap issue. The "knocking noise" is only present on really cold startups and has just started with the cold weather coming in. Non-existent when the car is warmed up. I'm going to try to get a video

Yeah sounds like rod knock. Dang that sucks. It will eventually get worse and then one day you will be winding it to redline and end up with constant knock when not under load. At that point the damage could be more than a simply bearing replacement. I’ve been there done that on a few cars. You hear it at cold start and think, “I really need to tear this thing down and replace the bearing(s)” ... “Nah, not in the mood for such a big job, I will do it in the winter” next think you know it totally spins a bearing and now you are potentially replacing a rod or crank. I did price out the rods and crank and they are reasonably priced. So that’s exciting.

My 2017 makes a light knocking noise on warm up since it got colder here too. Didn't think anything of it. It's not there when I drive off. Should I be worried?

No. Cars make weird noise until they warm up. It doesn't mean they are being harmed. Just don't go hot-rodding until it reaches operating temperatures.

Wow that is quite the conclusion to come up with based on the minuscule info provided.
Cold engine can knock it does not automatically lead to blowing them up.

You should NEVER have rod knock. Not even cold. Sure there are different noises on a cold start but it should NOT be rod knock. What he is hearing may not be rod knock. But the early stages of a rod bearing going will be herd on cold start.

Just saying it is a little early to assume it is rod knock at all.

True, but I definitely wouldn’t write it off and ignore it. That is all I was getting at. Something cheap to fix ($26 rod bearing) can turn into catastrophic failure (rod, crank or maybe block). Lots of labor though.

Curious as to how the suspensions hold up on these cars. Hopefully not like a lot of BMWs where the bushings are shot after 60K.

Mine still feels great 72K in. But then, I don't track it, so it hasn't had the abuse some others have had.

I think mine is a piston slap issue. Currently at 80K miles. I just started my car for the first time today and it didn't make any noise. It only happens when it's cold af. Ambient was about 60F and thr car had been sitting all night. I'm not too concerned. I've read these engines have loose tolerances to reduce friction and extract as much power as possible. My car sees redline at least once a day.

At 80K and I've noticed my steering bushings feel a bit sloppy and I noticed some stress marms on my diff bushings. There are poly inserts for the diff and subframe which install way easier than replacing the actualy bushing. They're affordable too. Rack bushings are relatively easy too. I used to have an E36 328i. The bushings on these cars last a lot longer then the Bimmers.

Mine is an early '12 build, delivery in May '12. I have ~63K miles, over 60K of it turboed. The only thing I've had to change was the clutch. No other issues (knock on wood)!

On RSR Superdown springs and all bushings, shocks and fittings still looked good when I got to take a look last time on a hoist. Now of course there could be some hidden wear but I have had no symptoms whatsoever.

I have 111k on my FRS and had the clutch replaced around 100K as well as the rear diff fluid swapped. I will be doing plugs and mounting some new tires soon. I'm the second owner of this vehicle and nothing outside of regular maintenance so far! /fingers crossed

91k miles with no issues of consequence. The dealer changed the fuel pump because the crickets bothered them and the timing cover was a little leaky a few months ago so they fixed that too. It's getting to be about time to do some more important regular maintenance stuff like clutch/tob because it's starting to squeal on cold start ups and I'll do all of the fluids again at that time. The rear brakes (pads and rotors) were good for about 85k and the fronts will need to be done soon. Really that's about it on my mid '12 build.

What is "TOB" ?

Throwout bearing

Also know as the clutch release bearing.

When you push down on the clutch pedal, it pushes a rod in the clutch master cylinder that pushes fluid through lines that pushes a rod in the slave cylinder that pushes on a clutch fork that pushes on the throw out (release) bearing that pushes on the fingers of the pressure plate that releases pressure on the clutch disk thus preventing the engine from turning the shaft in the transmission.

Get the picture ........:)


humfrz

Are these instances of faulty TOB , or is there something that can be done (maintenance …. lube) that can help prolong the life of the TOB ?

Problems at high milage?
 

It’s a bad design. In 2017 they finally released a TSB that covers 2013-2016 with a new part. Basically they revised the bearing for the 2017 car and now they suggest you use the 2017 bearing in all years. Too soon to know if this new bearing really has improved though.

New part:
SU003-07349

Edit: I updated the link because I realized I posted the link to the old part rather than the new part stated in the TSB.