A new transmission option
 

Hopefully they will post on here, but here it is. Comes with CF drive shaft, brand new Nissan cd009 transmission, and good for 800+ hp and 800+ ft/lbs torque. All that for less than the cost of a gear set. I have been waiting for a stronger transmission solution, this is it! I’ve got mine ordered already!!
http://www.mazworx.com/mazworx-favq-...t-frs/brz.aspx

I'm really liking this option. I wish you could buy it with out the new transmission just a kit. Used cd009 are very easy to source.

The transmission has to have some machining, I believe that is why they are going with a new one. Used transmissions are around $700-800 (I know, sometimes less). The new ones are only about $1800. I’m going to have a brand new engine and a brand new trans. I’m ok with it. Plus a one piece carbon fiber driveshaft for the win. I’m excited about it.

I'm sure they'd be happy to take your money if you called, but like the OP said, other work would have to be done.

Just got my cd009 transmission delivered. It came with a beautiful PST carbon fiber one piece driveshaft as icing on the cake. I will let you guys know how it goes in the weeks to come! Now I have to get to work!

Nice but what is the gearing set at can you order custom? What about final drive and diff match up?

What kind of weight increase are you looking at, if any?

It is a brand new Nissan vq cd009 transmission. (Same as found in last two years of 350z/g35, and 370z/g37) It is not a custom gearing setup, although aftermarket gear sets are made for it. It has been modified by Mazworx to work with the FA20, and fit in our cars. It comes with the cf driveshaft, and a clutch disc sourced from ACT I’ll make it work in my car. I am using an ACT pro lite flywheel, and an extreme pressure plate for our car, and ACT has an off the shelf Nissan clutchplate good for 450 ft/lbs torque as I recall, that has our exact clutch specs. It works on the Nissan spline. As far as weight I am not sure, but it will take 800hp and 800 ft/lbs of torque. I have a new engine that needs a more robust transmission. This will do the trick. Gear ratios aren’t too far off ours, but a quick check of a 350z/370z forum says:
1st 3.794
2ed 2.324
3rd 1.624
4th 1.271
5th1.000
6th .794
rev 3.446

Ours is:
1- 3.626
2- 2.188
3- 1.541
4- 1.213
5- 1.00
6- 0.767
According to Jacks Transmissions.

Gearing will be a wee bit lower in most gears, but I will have a higher redline due to the nature of my engine build, and will probably switch to 3.90 or 3.73 rear end gears in the future. Both things should more than compensate for my lost MPH in each gear.

I just picked up both transmissions by hand. I’m guessing 30 lbs heavier on the CD009 vs our stock. It’s definitely more beefy. Here are some side by side pics.

**I will have to get to my computer later to add pics. I can’t get my iPhone or iPad to size them small enough to post**

thank you for sharing new transmission system

three comparison pics:

How much work will be needed for clearancing in your transmission tunnel? Also, I'd be curious to see before/after to see if any drivetrain loss is gained/lost with the trans/shaft combo.

The transmission mount in the tunnel has to be totally modified, some of it removed. The new mounts have to be welded in place of some of the removed part of the original mounting configuration. It is a commitment to be sure. I’m doing it all myself with the much needed help of a friend. It is a tight fit, I will have to relief a little bit of the tunnel up near the front of the transmission too. Some body work tools and a hammer will make that happen. You can go see pics of it on the Mazworx website. http://www.mazworx.com/mazworx-favq-...t-frs/brz.aspx

The production parts are much nicer than those used in the photos on their site. You can see that in my photos. What you cannot see is the nice energy suspension rear mount that attaches the transmission to the mount. The new mount that actually attaches to the energy mount on the transmission, then bolts to the pieces that are welded into the tunnel. It is finished in the same, nice wrinkle black that is on the shifter framework.

Also, believe it or not, it fits in there now, but just. It doesn’t leave enough room for movement. I’m pretty sure firm engine mounts will be a must.

I've been through 3 transmissions in 3 months, with a built one on the way, but this definitely has my eyes on it, as a potential option for guys who don't want to spend as much as I am on mine...

I was seriously looking at going with a quaife sequential, but I wasn’t sure I would want to live with it using it on the street. This was a big welcome option!

Power level? What were you doing with the car when the failures occurred?

One had an input shaft bearing failure at about 220whp. On track. Live streaming too. I believe some track enthusiasts watched it happen live.

Second one cracked gears 1-4, and the 3/4 shaft failed completely. On the street. ~280whp.

Third one failed on track at 250whp. 4 laps in. Bent shift fork? Stuck between neutral and 4th.

Car is capable of 360whp.

Some pics of the and after the installation:

well crap, some of them are sideways or upside down. Sorry guys!

Are those solid or poly trans mounts?

If you have driven it, whats the NVH like?

There is a polyurethane mount on the direct bottom of the transmission, mounted with two bolts to the black “V” shaped piece. Haven’t driven it yet. I have several more things to accomplish to get it drivable.

any update?

Transmission works well, has nice shifting. A little noise in the shifter that I need to address, but I have a very y light flywheel, and very firm engine mounts. My engine is on a very soft break in tune right now also. I have made many changes, including Driveshaft shop axles. I have a vibration somewhere that I need to isolate. It is either the driveshaft or axles, as it also occurs with clutch pedal pressed and engine at idle. I will post again once I figure it out.

Other way around. If it happens at idle, not moving, then it is on the engine side.

If it happens only at speed, whether or not you have the clutch depressed, then it would be trans/post trans between the trans and wheels.

It only occurs when the car is moving. If I am at say 75 mph, and I press the clutch and let the engine drop to idle, the vibration is still there.

Ah, okay I must have misunderstood.

Def something between the trans and tires.

Have had this issue since my LS Swap. Interesting to see what yours could be. Doubt they are the same, but anything is possible. Currently rebuilding one of my DSS axles to see if it cures the issue.

What are your driveline angles like? The angle of the transmission output vs Diff?

Angles aren’t severe. I’m performance lowered, not stance lowered. I’m gonna put stock axles back in just to see.

What's the update?

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This looks like a really cool option. Extremely $$$, but nice.

I’m gonna be making order for this kit next week, looking forward to this along with some driveshaft shop axles :)

Any updates on this? I’m thinking about purchasing this for my build

If necessary, I have finished installing my own set recently, and could answer any question related to it.

https://i.servimg.com/u/f94/18/95/58/38/boite_13.jpg
https://i.servimg.com/u/f94/18/95/58/38/tunnel10.jpg
https://i.servimg.com/u/f94/18/95/58/38/boite_14.jpg

Nice! How much was all that out the door?

How much for the lathe, the end mill, and the GTAW? ;)

Yes. Yes, they do.

What needed to be machined on the input shaft? Mazworx states they machine their input shafts. Id like to do this project as a DIY along with a DIY turbo kit, however no info on what needs to be machined on the input shaft makes me wonder if its as simple as machining a little length off it or I could be well wrong.


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My main Hangup is the input shaft machining but if there’s another way worth exploring I’ll check that out too. Any pics from what you did to solve this? Seems like your solutions a good one.
As for the turbo kit, I’m confident on that end


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