3UR-FE Swap
 

Destroyed two FA20s in the past two years. The second one was built and had a very graceful death because of a broken valve spring unlike the first one that went up into flames.

Long story short, I'm putting a Tundra/Land Cruiser/LX570 5.7L engine in this thing. My mechanic is very capable and has done multiple swaps before but never in a twin or with a 5.7 but we'll manage.

The reason behind choosing this specific engine is because I'm obsessed with it since 2011. I've had a Supercharged Tundra that ran 11.68 in a 1/4 mile and it's still holding the record of fastest Tundra in the world. The same tundra is being rebuilt by Dynosty, which some of you might be familiar with. It made over 1000WHP on the dyno with twin 6262s a few months ago.

This build is unexpected so for the first phase it's gonna be relatively budget oriented so for now:

- NA
- Stock ECU
- R154 (maybe T56 or CD009 if the price is right)

Engine should be here this weekend or early next week. Transmission I'm not sure about and I would like your guy's input. Hoping to wrap this up before New year's.

Future plans:

- Haltech Standalone
- Forged internals (optional)
- TRD Supercharger

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Good luck.

I have decided to go with a T56/TR6060. Anyone have experience on how to pick them for best fitment on the twins? I know not to get the transaxle version that comes in 'vettes. Should I get one out of a Camaro, Mustang, Challenger, GTO, or CTS-V?

It will bolt on as following. 3UR (AB60) bellhousing, adapter plate between the housing and transmission. Re-drilled flywheel and probably a stock clutch. Picture is of the same method but with a R154. Done by a friend of mine in the Netherlands.

can't wait to see how this project comes along. i have a 3urfe swapped into a 2003 tundra. it is currently getting twin charged. who made the transmission adapter? never seen anybody offer any.

Are you doing this now because LS swaps are now a dime a dozen?

Engine is here. Still missing a few parts and accessories but nothing that can't be found in a scrapyard or a dealership.

Regarding the transmission, I found out Vorshlag makes a bolt on LS T56 and it would be perfect for what I'm doing with some modification. However it's out of my budget. So the stock transmission will do for now, just need an adapter plate. I have a South Bend clutch on it rated for 400TQ. I'll do my best to keep my foot out of it and de-tune it a bit so the transmission doesn't shatter but that's for later.

I also contacted AGT Engineering in Australia regarding their CAN BUS translator. They told me it should, I just need to know which signal comes from where.

It was made by a transmission shop in the Netherlands. Be careful twincharging the 3UR, don't go more than 8-10 psi or over 550HP. That's their breaking point. I got away with 560WHP for a year before blowing a head gasket. Forged internals are easily found now so don't cheap out or you'll lose a block.

You could call me a Toyota fanboy or a purist lol. I also have a TRD supercharger laying around and 6 years of experience with this engine. Most will say these have low aftermarket support but I know where to get anything I need to make this work.

It was made by a transmission shop in the Netherlands. Be careful twincharging the 3UR, don't go more than 8-10 psi or over 550HP. That's their breaking point. I got away with 560WHP for a year before blowing a head gasket. Forged internals are easily found now so don't cheap out or you'll lose a block.


my engine has been built for the last 5 years.

I always wanted to 1uz my FRS. The size of engine is what steered me towards the LS. It's in the plans if I ever get another one and somehow blow it up. Can't wait to see the progress

Then you're good to go! What transmission are you using? The stock clutches on the AB60 start slipping at 650HP/TQ.

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i am using the ab60. would have loved to do some sort of manual but using the stock transmission was easier. what did you end up doing with your transmission to make it hold?

It was sent to IPT and they machined it to fit more clutch packs. They also re-stalled and beefed up the torque converter with a modified valve body for about +$5000 total. I was going for a 1000WHP so it was necessary. You can purchase clutch packs from them way cheaper an install them yourself, you just can't install more than factory. I also have an aftermarket TCM controlling it so it's a true manual gear selector now unlike the factory sequential selector that doesn't upshift when you want.

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Custom adapter plate is installed. Now that the transmission and engine are mated and in the car we can see that we need to move everything 6 inches to the back. I'm still saving money by not getting a T56 but we still need to fabricate a new transmission mount, driveshaft and shifter linkage. Once that's done we'll move on to the engine mounts.

The oil pan is too low and would need some "trimming". The oil filter bracket also sits as low as the oil pan. With some welding and some fittings we can do a relocation kit and probably an oil accumulator just incase the shallow oil pan causes any starvation but that's for later.

Pictures of the engine are without the transmission mated to it. We were just eyeballing how would it sit in the engine bay and I think were all clear in every direction except the front where we might need to make some space for the crank pulley and most likely a "budge​" in the hood for the intake manifold.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...196ae8557d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e6994868f3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f59b602ed2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...145e0d0f95.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b67896ee4a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ba7cb5957f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...219793ab0b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...40ec2e1a7e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...239ecc3c20.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2c0f144289.jpg

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nice can't wait to see the engine mounted in the car! what sort of timeframe a you hoping to have it up and running in? on your tundra what size, brand and model injectors did you use to support 1000hp? i am looking at changing mine out before i send the truck to get tuned.

Hopefully by December but it should definitely be running before New year's.

On the Tundra I'm running the new ID1300X injectors with E85. You can getaway with the ID1050X if you're gonna run race fuel instead.

Unfortunately if you want to run any bigger injectors than the ones that come with the TRD supercharger you'll need to do a standalone ECU. The factory ECU can't scale that high as far as I know.

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Certainly among the last engines I would have chose for a swap but it looks like it is coming along really, really well. Nice to see somebody actually do something different instead of just talk about doing it!

thanks. did you need any adaptor for the injectors to work or are they plug and play? yeah i gave up on the factory ecu awhile ago.

No adapter needed, however we couldn't install the factory plugs to clear the fuel rails and had to use some potting material and extensions. Not sure if the stock fuel rails will interfere as mine are custom.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...848f4c216f.jpg

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Re-drilled the southbend flywheel to be able to bolt it on the 3UR crankshaft. Will be using both the 3UR flexplate and the SB flywheel so we can run the same SB stage 3 clutch along with the 3UR starter. Not sure yet how well this will go but on the balancer it had no problems all the way to 8000RPM. 3URs rev to about 6k so hopefully no vibration issue.

Engine and trans are in their final position. We moved everything back 5 inches. Engine and transmission mounts will be done by the end of the week hopefully.

Crankcase will be cut and modified to clear the crossmember. I'll attach a picture of a 3UR that was once in an 86. I'm sure everyone heard about it a few years ago. It was made by speed hunters but the project was cancelled before the car ran. The crankcase in the pictures looks like it will perfectly clear the crossmember with how the engine is sitting now in my car. If I run into any oil starvation issues due to the crankcase I'll probably end up using an oil accumulator.

There is no way the hood will close without modification, the engine is simply too tall. Anyone knows an aftermarket Hood with more clearance? If not I'll just have to modify the stock one. It's already been cut to install the Velox vents.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...67dce1f34f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1cb4abd19d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4c7c973599.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...05c433d91b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f6ec5d6ab2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...51e3f14ffb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ebbc531f27.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2bd8b27c42.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7c7c585e16.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...89cd3ad67f.jpg

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Awesome to see this coming along. Saw your Tundra last time I was at Dynosty(maybe right after the dyno?). Really impressive!

A little progress with the mounts. We used 1/2" steel plates.

The Transmission mount is good as is just needs a bit of trimming on the edges.

The engine mount will be trimmed, boxed in with additional plates on the sides and welded to the crossmember for extra support. It's not the prettiest but we're still using the factory 5.7 mounts.

The shifter bracket was also cut and shortened by 5".


Once everything is set, they will be sand blasted and powder coated.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...032a488862.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...d1d8b7ead0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...260b27df3f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...0fa720c2f1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...dfa1f43370.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f1b81cbf79.jpg

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Make a shaker style cutout?

That was the plan. Have you seen the new ZR1 hood? Maybe something like that.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7d48ffb2ff.jpg

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The swap is about 75% complete. Just waiting on the driveshaft and crankcase to be done. Once I get those back everything will get powder coated and will be installed one final time.

Meanwhile, we got the ECU hooked up to a CAN BUS analyzer. We got 13 IDs which is twice as much as usual on other cars. Once we figure out which ID is which a translator will be wired between the 3UR ECU and the rest of the 86 ECUs. We'll probably have everything working maybe even cruise control too. The throttle pedal even uses the same pigtail and outputs the same signal as a Tundra. Things are looking really promising :)https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...15679150ea.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...440c52451d.jpg

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I love people figuring out CAN stuff. Let me know if you need anything to get your project further.

Looks like a lot of those ID's line up with some older Toyota CAN messages that are decently documented on the internets.

https://github.com/fabiobaltieri/toy...er/toyothack.c

The above link seems to contain some similar ID's.

https://github.com/commaai/opendbc/b...Q_2009_can.dbc

The above link might be a bit too new and doesn't contain similar ID's but might give you some more insight into Toyota's packet structure within the ID.

EDIT: Also, only 13 ID's? Very, very common on new vehicles.

Thanks for the links! I'm actually kinda cheating by using my other truck to figure out which is which. I use the analyzer to send a code and see if one of the gauges flickers. Once that is found we convert the HEX value(s) into binary and it gives the value of whatever parameter it's providing. So far we found the Engine Speed and Coolant temp. I'll look over those links you sent and maybe find some matching IDs.

I used this link talking about Camry CAN BUS IDs to find the engine speed as they were the same.

http://tucrrc.utulsa.edu/ToyotaCAN.html

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I went out of town last week so not a lot of progress while I was gone.

Driveshaft is done, we ended up shorting the factory driveshaft by deleting the elbow joint and welding them together. 0 vibration while balancing at about 3000RPM (about 60 MPH in an 86/BRZ).

A new shifter linkage was made. It goes into every gear without any issues just like stock.

Crankcase was cut to fit the cross member. We will try to use the factory oil pan but might end up cutting it a bit for clearance.

On the electronic side of the swap, my friend Gerald over in California has all the CAN BUS IDs mapped out. Everything should work as factory with the exception of traction control which I don't use anyway.

We have Coolant temp, throttle pedal signal, cruise control (they use the same signal as the 86/BRZ), and a lot of other stuff Gerald figured out to make it work.

The factory 86 oil pressure switch will be tapped into the oil filter adapter plate to turn off the oil pressure light.

RPM is also working however we still need to figure out the multiplier on the 3UR side to get the exact RPM. Either way power steering will work now that we have a tach signal.

AC will be wired directly as it doesn't pass through CAN BUS on the 3UR side.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...93ec6b2384.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ace3da47a7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3206e7e0a9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4e6c7b0bfd.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...078d865d8c.jpg

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Traction Control may still work. I have found a definite difference between traction on and traction off during hard acceleration (I have traction issues up to 4th gear a lot of the time) and during Auto-X. I believe the system utilizes the rear brakes as a means to control rear wheel slip.

Also, the factory oil pressure sensor is a dummy sensor. It grounds out and turns the oil pressure light on when it sees 0 psi. Light stays off if not hooked up. I ditched it early on for a proper oil pressure gauge. So unless you absolutely want it, it's not needed. By the time that light goes off, your engine is just about guaranteed to be dead.

That's what my friend said as well about traction control. We only need to figure out where to tap the ABS signal from the 86 to the 3UR ECU to make it fully functional. It would take some time to figure out + "translation" but it's definitely do-able. I just don't really need it lol. The brakes may still come on to manage traction, Toyota calls this "Auto LSD" on their trucks. but with it not connected to the ECU to cut power it will just power through the brakes like in a burnout situation.

Good to know about the oil pressure switch. I'll probably just ground it now. I was going to run an oil pressure gauge regardless. One less thing to worry about, thanks :)

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Definitely powers through it, It helps quite a bit to help with traction, it just makes it noticeably slower.

You don't need to do anything with the wire to the light. It's off by default. If you were to ground it, The light would come on.

Got it :)

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The CAN BUS translator is done and is supposed to be shipped today. Ignition, AC, cruise control and the throttle pedal will be the only things needed to be wired other than the CAN BUS. All of the above use the same signals on both platforms, in this case a 2014 86 and a 2008 Tundra ECU.

Once everything is wired I can then reprogram the Tundra immobilizer for a new key and it should fire right up!

Here is a video of the CAN BUS translator in action. The engine and transmission mounts after powder coating along with the transmission adapter.

Engine bay was wiped clean for final installation and starter testing with the flywheel/flexplate and South bend clutch on.

We should have the engine and car running this week or early next week as the fuel system is fairly straightforward on the 5.7L with a single feed line and a single return line. Once we confirm everything is in order custom coolant and AC lines will be made and then finally modifying the hood for the additional 3.7 liters under it.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c671ccf83a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...698bdb7c6a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...142a8eb50c.jpghttp://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5a19ad12...98448934~2.mp4

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looking good! can't wait to see a video of it moving

With holidays in the states last week I still haven't received the CAN BUS translator and holidays here this weekend we weren't able to get everything installed in time but it's definitely gonna start and move under its own power next week.

Engine is in for the last time. Crankcase is done and can hold up 8 liters of oil along with the modified oil pick up tube. AC lines are done. All accessories are on the engine. Radiator and AC condenser are mounted and barely clear the compressor thanks to the low profile fans. Fuel lines are sorted out.

Things left to do:
Oil filter remote mount
Engine harness wiring
ECU Reprogramming
CAN BUS translator wiring
Serpentine belt

All are pretty simple and should be knocked off in a couple of days.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...490c71d63f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...16b59aab5e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9734dd762f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f6699d2c78.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3dfbb13117.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9ae083e320.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...46be412427.jpg

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Pushers will look cool from the front.

Coming together nicely. Good to see something a bit different.

We ran into a few bumps which is expected. I was way to optimistic in getting it running last week but we're getting there. Pretty much everything is done and installed:

- Oil pan / crankcase
- Oil filter adapter and remote mount
- All Accessories
- Fuel lines
- A/C lines
- Almost all water lines

We could not find a hose that would work between the filler neck and the thermostat housing and since both are plastic and so close to each other fabrication was not an option. We welded a filler neck on the water jacket pipe but didn't like how it came out. So I finally gave in and ordered an aluminum Koyo filler neck that we can work with.

We still have to make an intake and most likey it will be routed under the headlight.

With that said, the car is getting put back together as the intake pipe and the filler neck are easy to access later. Harness is going in tomorrow, then wiring the CAN BUS module, fuel pump, throttle pedal, cruise control, and A/C.

Pics of it's current state (water jacket will be fixed)https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...81121e0b6e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8d27b2ae14.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a13e0ee32e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2478c5f0af.jpg

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It's been a couple of weeks since my last update.

The car is back on it's wheels, we started wiring the ECU(s) last week and after 3 long days of diagrams and dissecting harnesses it finally fired up!

However we have discovered a few things along the way. Even though the diagrams look similar with the exact same abbreviations and wiring, some stuff did not work between the two systems.

The throttle pedal didn't work even though it shares the same plug as a Tundra pedal and all the wires have the same tag name. Fortunately a tundra pedal did work immediately and it has the same exact mount to the firewall. It's currently being modified so the pedal is in the same location as OEM.

The fuel pump also didn't want to cooperate. Hooking it up to the Tundra ECU didn't work. With the 86 ECU it primed but didn't pump fuel as the 86 ECU doesn't know when the engine is running. So now the fuel pump stays running with the key in ignition.

The CAN BUS translator seems to have been dead on arrival. Another one is on the way so the dash and power steering will have to wait.

Now that everything else is wired up, hooking up teachstream to the OBD port the software recognizes the engine ECU from a 2007 Tundra. Other than some emission and transmission related codes everything else is working as it should. This also means my local tuner can tune it as if it was a Tundra and delete all the codes mentioned above :)

We discovered a small oil leak in the crankcase but nothing crazy. At least we know we have oil pressure lol.

The car is a huge mess of wires at the moment so I haven't taken any pictures recently (yes a bigger mess than the picture below from last week). Here is a short video of it firing up for the 3rd time before rigging up the fuel pump. Enjoy the open headers :)

http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5a41434f...034621_380.mp4https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...40fabbcfd7.jpg


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Amazing progress in such a short amount of time!! Nicely done. Thanks for the info regarding the fuel pump. I was hoping mine would run off of the FRS ECU but based on your comments it sounds like it'll need to be reworked.

Its pretty easy to do actually. You'll find the fuel pump ECU behind the passenger seat and the plastic panel behind the door. If I remember correctly it had 4 wires going into it. Cut the grey one and hook it up to the ground next to the fuel pump ECU. Cut the green one and tap into the the red wire. Don't cut the red wire. Now the pump will come on with the key in ignition and stay on.

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Good stuff! excellent documentation for future reference