LS3 HPDE / Time Attack Build
 

This is my BRZ.

https://i.imgur.com/fL5x8qu.jpg

It has always been a DD/trackday car, and will continue to be one.

Some modifications before the swap:
-Ohlins Road and Track Coilovers w/ Swift 9k/9k springs
-SPC Lower Control Arms
-Racesceng Camber Plates
-Racesceng Strut Mounts
-Whiteline Positive Traction kit
-Whiteline Differential Bushing kit
-Whiteline 22mm front swaybar
-Whiteline 18mm rear swaybar
-AP Racing BBK
-JDL UEL Ceramic Coated Header
-JDL Overfrontpipe
-Nameless Muffled Track Pipe
-Velox Diffuser
-Velox Splitter
-Perrin Oil cooler
-Velox AOS w/ Drainback
-Innovate gauges
-Nexus 7 + OBD interface
-many more mods

https://i.imgur.com/obmToB2.jpg

Stay tuned for the sound of freedom

Apologies in advance for any unfinished thoughts. I'll clean everything up as things move along.

Weight

Last time I had the car weighed, it came in at 2680lbs.
Weight of FA20 and transmission: 480lbs
Weight of LS3 and Tremec Magnum XL transmission: ~578lbs
Total theoretical weight up: 100lbs

Total theoretical weight of car: 2780lbs

F/R theoretical weight distribution: 52/48. WAY better than stock (56/44) due to the weight of the trans and how far back the LS will sit.

Here's the vorshlag thread on the entire swap going into detail on this.

http://www.vorshlag.com/forums/showt...?t=8275&page=2

Engine

In order to not surpass the limit of the NASA TT2 of 8.0 weight to horsepower, I will be capping my competition tune power at 380whp (250 + 2780 / 8).
But on the street tune, I'll let it rip to whatever it wants to make.

Considering the stock C6 GS would dyno around 381/375,
I am going to guess that with the 2.5" catless exhaust system, the power output will be similar to this one below:

http://i220.photobucket.com/albums/d...rtedintake.jpg

To keep the engine cool, I'll be using an oil cooler and better radiator.

Plaguing the LS3 are also oil starvation issues.
To get around this, I'll be running an an Aviaid 3 stage dry sump system and mounting the 3 gallon dry sump tank in the trunk.
Another advantage of doing this: I can retain my whiteline front swaybar due to the added clearance.
I'll also be using an accusump to to prime the engine with oil in order to reduce internal wear before the pump can build pressure.
Something like:

https://i.imgur.com/L9dtayx.jpg

Drivetrain

For the trans, I'll be using a close ratio Tremec T56 Magnum XL. I already have 600hp DSS axles. I'm going to run the stock diff until it explodes and then change to an OSGikken unit.

Currently, I'm running 255/40/17 Maxxis RC1s.
In order to put the power down on the track I'm going to try and fit the widest tire I can on an 18x9.5 without cutting my fenders.
Currently looking at Toyo Proxes RRs in 275/40/18.

Practicality

I need the car to fully integrate with my existing Subaru FI system. I do plan on keeping it road legal (no inspections in ohio).
It just so happens that part of what I do at work involves working with CAN networking.
I'm hoping in the end, i'll have working everything on the meter, and of course, no lights on.
I will retain the OBD functionality of the GM FI, and run my nexus bluetooth gauges in order to monitor vehicle data

https://i.imgur.com/lUExWCg.jpg


The car in the end will be very similar to the LS3 S13 that the MotorTrend boys built, only the chassis won't feel like a wet noodle.
The weight of their 240ss comes in at 2808lbs, running a 0-60 time of 4.1s, and the 1/4 mile in 12.3s at 120.7mph.
I watch their video to hype myself up when things get slow:

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bL4kIk8mXSk&t=513s"]1993 Nissan 240SX Part 4: The 240SS Is Born! (With the Help of an LS3) - Ignition Ep. 120 - YouTube[/ame]

1/30/18

Have been waiting for parts since October. Car has been ready to go.

Work began on the engine, took off the wiring harness, stock oil lines, accessories, and finally got it up on the stand.

https://i.imgur.com/01zm9Zr.jpg

So in.

Love red on these cars, goes really well with the black trim (usually not a fan of red cars).

Really interested to read the story behind the two FA20s blowing up. Makes me a little paranoid...

Nice! Should be able to get some cash back from those headers! Looking forward to watching your build.

this should be interesting

Glad to see you posting a build thread!! Can't wait to see the swap progress. Good Luck and if you have any questions, feel free to ask.

I'm local. Any chance for a ride when that thing is done?

Sooo I am going to be the **** head here....


You list your mods and say you blew up your motor twice, but yet I do not see a modified oil pan or anything to say you went after oil starvation/temp oils??

If so, what did you attempt since it may be beneficial to any to know if it is worth even trying to keep the FA20 for racing.

Thanks man!

For sure!!

Hey man, sorry I forgot to add those and elaborate. See above post again.

I think the FA is fine, as long as it gets an oil pressure gauge, oil cooler, a high quality oil, and most importantly.. an accusump.
While I did use a cooler and best oil out there, and I never saw above 235F or below 45PSI on track, I should have probably ran 5w-30 instead of 0w-20 with an accusump.

Yikes. So many FA20s blowing up on the track this year it's really making me uneasy about mine.

Sub'd.

Same! If you ever make it back to an autocross in Cincy/Dayton!

yikes, this reminds me of my own BRZ. it went on the track too. the rod snapped in half. I'd love to see where this goes. good luck!

subbed!

While I understand the premise of the change, I do have a question about the original engine:

Was the original engine problem ever found?

Other people have inferred oil starvation on the first engine, but I didn't see any information to support that claim. I may have missed it?

Secondly, I attempted to Google around for another long block and have seen prices from 2 - 5k. To me, that seems quite reasonable as just your coil-overs or just your AP Racing calipers cost that much. Is there a reason why these aren't viable solutions for cheap, especially seeing as how you believe you know what the problems are now and you have all those parts?

Aside from that, no issues with an LS3 change. If that comes with the factory wet sump solution, that would be an enjoyable engine. However, in terms of total cost and time, it is still quite a project.

Good luck on your endeavor, and thanks for taking the time to answer my questions. I am curious, as my proposed build of a BRZ was going to be identical (with 200TW tires) and I was disappointed to see oiling failures at that lateral G-force level. Agree that heavier weight oil should have been considered.

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ASAdkJydBFU"]Motor Oil | Fine Print and Misconceptions - YouTube[/ame]

interested in seeing how you go. what gearbox are you using?

No the problem was never found. I don't believe it to be oil starvation, but it's possible. The engine ran, but was down on power a little. I was leaning toward broken valve spring or maybe even a a faulty crank position sensor. The misfires were occuring at idle, and the FI ECU was having trouble pinpointing which cylinder it was coming from... MY13 curse probably.
I think you will be fine with your build as I realize my case is an oddity.

And, I could have put another FA20 in, but while I really enjoyed the experience, I was growing tired of it after four years and just wanted something new. I enjoy wrenching on things so I don't see the swap as a tiring project but rather something exciting to build.

The motor was sourced out of a Grandsport - so it came with the factory dry sump. But, I'm ditching it for a 3 stage aviaid system since the factory system has some limitations.


It's going to run a Tremec T56 Magnum XL

2/11
Took the oil pan off to install the dry sump oil pan.....

https://i.imgur.com/SBycuCS.jpg

and found four needle bearings......

https://i.imgur.com/4HrRa9d.jpg?1 https://i.imgur.com/J3HH76R.jpg?1
https://i.imgur.com/K9vc1MC.jpg?1


Looks like I need to rebuild my rocker trunnions and pray that I find all of the needle bearings that dropped.

edit: Rockers looked fine. Its most likely from a lifter. Looks like the heads are coming off..