'17 OEM Exhaust?
 

Hey does anyone know what they changed on the newer cars? I noticed the tips on my '17 are different from previous years but is that it? Haven't been able to track down much info on this.

They changed a fair bit. Since they were bringing more air in they needed to get more exhaust out.

For some reason I find the idea of reducing exhaust pressure loss strange. Isn't pressure loss the reason exhaust systems exist?

The whole thing is riddled with poor translations. I don't think they meant to say to not lose pressure but more to not lose power through increased pressure.

I know. I just love "English as she is spoken" translations. In humfrz daze English as translated from "ENGLISH" was a hoot. Back when Cook Neilson ran the late Cycle Magazine, he or Gordon Jennings wrote a hilarious piece on it. I have a 72 Norton shop manual rife with words many here would find impenetrable. "Pressing in the gudgeon pin" sounds so happily naughty.

So the header was the only major mechanical change, and the rest was just a material change to be more aesthetically pleasing by better resisting corrosion....on parts under the car....that virtually no one can see unless you shove a mirror under your car in a parking lot.

They also apparently changed the flange between the mid pipe and the axleback. So there are basically no axlebacks that fit the 2017's.

I bet there are a couple of doxen threads om here that say "my exhaust is rusting already is that normal?" . People just don't get the fact exhaust rusts anymore. Back Until about 20 years ago you were lucky to get 5 years out of an exhaust before it rusted through someplace. Many a soup can and some gear clamps saw the underside of my cars back in the day.

Why is that strange?
I'm assuming they want to achieve better exhaust gas velocity.

I know, but that's my point. People see the outer surface corrosion and freak out thinking their exhaust is going to produce a dozen holes and or fall off the car tomorrow. And I get that it doesn't look great, but again, unless you get down with the intention of looking at the underside of the car, you're never going to see the corroded plumbing, and at the end of the day it's still going to work just fine for several years. So they made changes to the post-header plumbing just for aesthetic reasons (according to the documentation you posted) to stop the complaints from the aforementioned couple dozen people who find it abnormal or worrisome. Nevermind that some people can't even wait for the car to experience a handful of heat cycles before they're ready to throw an aftermarket exhaust on it. It's just such a non-issue to me, and I know I'm preaching to the Tchoir.

Unless I have missed something, I believe the tips on the '17+ cars are the same as the ones they changed to in '15 & '16 to help fill in the cutouts better than the original U.S. ones. Of all the cost-cutting measures they made for the stateside cars that was easily one of the worst to me. And even these newer style ones still don't look as nice as the ones on the European and Asian versions of the car that actually extend past the diffuser section, but are better than the ones we originally got.

The flange change Jasonb mentioned is news to me, but I think other than that and maybe a hanger location they didn't change the axleback section in any functional way.

I don't think you realize, but this post is gold. I have been trying to find this information for some time, albeit not that hard, a simple google search didn't bring it up though.

Yeah, I want an axleback on my '17. Don't know what I can use. FT86Speedfactory still lists the parts as 2013+.

axle backs are limited to like 1 or 2 companies. the flange at the axle back if different than the '16- models. let me see if I can find it..



**edit:

https://www.86speed.com/products/rem...uble-wall.html

does this apply to the AT 2017s?

Ok, So I guess what I actually want is a catback. I don't know why but when I first thought catback I included the frontpipe, but that has a cat in it that I want to keep.

Look deeper there is a couple that state 2017MT. Get those. Do not beleive anything associated with the intake and exhaust will fit if it states 2013+.

Is there really a point to getting a Catback over an Axleback for the MY17's though. From me looking around because I too am interested in getting a new exhaust, it seems like changing a lot of the exhaust is a waste of money unless you're going FI, which you would then need to change all the way up to the headers.

My main issue is I want the car to remain legal lol, but want a bit more of a snarl for a price that isn't wasted money, but exhaust shopping is so damn hard for a noob and Axleback pricing compared to Catback is all over the place

It's all just for noise really.

Exhaust shopping too hard.

I'd just start with a header. Keeping it legal could be an issue. You'll get a check engine light unless you get a ecutek tune or an OFT tune.

But getting a header seems wasteful considering the MY17 updates, no?

No, there are still improvements to be had. I have a JDL UEL header and an OFT stage 2+ tune and it's definitely an improvement. Almost no torque dip, and even with the rest of the exhaust stock you get a nice tame rumble to the exhaust note.

Per dollar is that actually worth it though, considering my personal main goal is sound first. I would need to buy a header/tune which ends up being a lot more than either a Catback or Axleback.

Would this also not create a bottle neck? because you're opening up an area that is getting the exhaust first, but the remainder of the system is unchanged, which would be expecting stock levels of exhaust flow??

Not really.
Pretty much all catbacks are just for noise.

Not like it makes a huge difference, but I'm pretty sure the MY17 tips are the same as the MY15 and MY16 tips.

This is making me think that changing your exhaust at any point is a poor decision..

There are many perfectly valid reasons to change the exhaust. Most depends on your goal though. If you just want noise and simple cat or axleback is plenty. If you want performance than you need to open it up with a header and eliminate the cats. The actual muffler (even stock) will not be your bottle neck. Once you start messing with the whole system you can get some noises that may not be what you expect though. There is zero point in changing any of the exhaust without doing something with the intake and tuning the car for the change. Sure you can get more exhaust out but where is the advantage if you are not bringing more air in or changing the tune to be able to make use of that freer flow?

So really, I should essentially get them all at the same time. Intake and exhaust headers down. I wasn't thinking about it simple enough and overlooked the small part of more air in equals more air out, but regarding legality, if none of this can really be done without hassle then manipulating the sound may be the only thing I do.

Ultimately I want performance, who doesn't, but under strict requirements

You really don't even need to replace the intake either.
If more hp is what you're after, header and tune is your best bet.

Agreed. Just did a catless JDL UEL header (on an otherwise stock exhaust) and an OFT stage 2+ tune. Definite improvement and basically eliminated the torque dip. These were my first 2 mods to the car, and it definitely woke it up.