Subaru BRZ Build opinions
 

Hi,
First time poster here.. sorry if this is in the wrong place mods please move

I have just bought a 2017 brz and have big plans for it I was wondering if you guys could give me opinions on my build list so far. I am looking for roughly 300+ whp and I plan on doing occasional track days.
I love in Queensland Australia so some things may not be legal or available please keep this in mind...

Handling:
- MCA red coil overs
- MCA traction mod
- Kartboy short shifter
- Tanabe front strut bar
- GrimmSpeed master cylinder brace
- Whiteline steering rack and pinion bushings
- Perrin steering rack lockdown
- Perrin transmission mount
- Perrin Shifter bushing
- Perrin 19mm front sway bar
- Perrin 16mm rear sway bar
- Perrin front and rear poly endlinks
- Whiteline diff support and outrigger bushings
- Whiteline sway bar mount supports
- Voodoo13 rear lower control arms
- Michelin Pilot Super Sport Tires

Engine:
- JDL coated UEL header
- Invidia overpipe
- Invidia catted front pipe
- Invidia R400 catback
- Omni power 4 bar map sensor
- Perrin light weight crank pulley
- Perrin light weight accessory pulley
- Velox fuel rails
- Velox fuel rail covers
- DW 700cc injectors
- DW 300c fuel pump
- JRSC C38 kit
- JRSC high boost pulley
- Clutch Masters FX400 clutch and fly wheel

Exterior:
- INTEC carbon fiber japan tail lights
- DT MOTO smoke side markers
- Seibon FA style carbon fiber hood
- Seibon carbon fiber roof panel
- latch and pin locking kit
- Hood gas struts GrimmSpeed
- Seibon FR carbon fiber fender inserts
- Stancenation X Aimgain Type 2

Interior:
- Cusco acceleration pedal
- OEM GT 86 arm rest
- flossy heavyweight grip tape shift knob
- OEM Audio+ CF kit
- Braum elite series racing seats


Thanks all for your help


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inb4 driver mod

HELLO MyZC6 and WELCOME to ....... The Forum ....... :clap:

I have no comment on your mod list .......... however, are you sure you bought the right car .......:popcorn:


humfrz

What do you mean?


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He means if you just bought it you have not driven it enough to really get a feel for it, yet if you are willing to dump as much money as that list will take, maybe you should be looking for more expensive track toys.

Easy way to achieve said goals:
Sale car, buy any RWD with a V6 or more.

If you bought this car for power, you bought the wrong car.

You're looking at about 25 grand right there. Should be equally exciting and horrifying for the wallet. So you're looking at having one cat in the front pipe? Just to clarify, you do mean coated header and not catted header?

I thought he meant he was going to spring for the ceramic coating.

I didn't get the sense that he bought the car for power.

I got the sense he bought the car with the intention of completing a long list of mods he'll get about halfway through before something else shiny gets his attention, at which point he'll put it on Craigslist priced at what he has in it to try to recoup his money for a new project to half complete.

But I could be wrong.

Well give me a list of mods that won't cost so much but will still achieve 300+ whp reliably

That list is just a compilation of what I have heard/read and have been told is the way to go, I'm not used to the whole new car/JDM scene as my pops and I have been doing up old mopars and painting Nita s my whole life


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Nah man I'm talking about this one:
https://jdlautodesign.net/shop/ft86-...length-header/


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Stop focusing on the number, it means nothing. If you've been dealing with old mopars there is a very good chance this car is lighter than anything you've experienced. Just drive the car for a few months. Decide what you want to do with it. Is it a dd? A track toy? A little bit of both? A show car? etc.

How much do you want to spend? What can you do yourself? If after a few months you really want 300+ hp ignore all those other things and get a turbo kit. Then drive it for a few more months, get all the usual kinks out, and just see what it feels like then.

There are a lot of good people with a lot of good advice here, but the mentality you are taking is all wrong, it will end up with a car with a bunch of parts on it and there is almost a 100% chance you will hate it. Take it slow.

^^^^This.

A thing that happens often with these cars is that people will build them in their heads before they buy and drive them, and the result isn't exactly what they're expecting. The disappointment leads to reduced enthusiasm, the build stalls, and then they start thinking about selling. Since they have so much money in the car, they want to get their money back out of it, but they can't because mods don't increase the value of the car in a 1:1 ratio. In some cases they actually decrease the market value. So they're either stuck with a car they don't like and can't sell, or they have to accept taking a bath on the build costs.

Whenever a newbie comes in here with a grand list of mods, we're all pretty skeptical about that car's future. The only time I wouldn't be skeptical is with someone who had been building and racing these for a while, knew exactly what he wanted to achieve and already knew exactly how to achieve it. If that's not you (and it honestly doesn't sound like it is), you'd be much better off making one or a few changes at a time and observing the effect rather than firing the parts cannon at it from the outset.

I suggest you pay attention to @why? 's posts.

My point was that if you feel you have to do all those mods to a new car ....... maybe, there is another car on the market that would be better suited to your needs ...... pretty much out of the box.......for the same amount of money (your purchase price plus mods).

However, if your goal is just to tinker with the platform ...... by all means, carry on ....... :thumbsup:


humfrz

Start with a JRSC base kit, factory tune, and tires. Drive it for a couple months. Don't forget the oil cooler. Then, upgrade with HBP, injectors, and fuel pump, Delicious tune. If you read the JRSC thread, you will see that EL header is recommended not UEL. Without rebuilding the engine with stronger internals (connecting rods, pistons, valve springs ...), you cannot talk about reliability, 300+whp using HBP is just a stunt. I don't know your budget but, in case you have a limited budget as your choice of sports car implies, you need to prioritize the modifications. If you start like this you will be wasting your money and you will be up for an engine replacement soon. I would recommend starting from your center piece, which is JRSC, and slowly/gradually build up from there.

-Fast
-Cheap
-Reliable

Pick 2.

In all seriousness, the key to these cars is simplicity. If all you're concerned with is a number, then there are better options out there.

You'd be surprised how quick these cars can be with very minor modifications. A good set of tires paired with headers and ECU tuning is enough to give some high hp cars a serious hard time on track with the right driver.

How does that song go?
... dreamer, your nothing but a dreamer...

So much of this.

I remember when I first bought my car and slammed it immediately. Got tired of crawling every time I went to drive the stupid thing. Sold the coils, got light wheels, sticky tires, header, tune and lowering springs and it's about as perfect as I could possibly want.

$30k...no brakes.

Ok.

So I have people saying stick with the JRSC and others saying go with a turbo what's your opinion, the car is gonna be my DD with occasional track and a lot of shows/meetups around my area

Looking more for fast and reliable and the reason I chose this car was because I love the look of it (even with the widebodys) and how versatile the platform is


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How about considering kits that are available in the area that you live ?

Yeah there isn't much going here in Australia most our vendors get them from overseas


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Harrop, Bullet(Sprintex), SME, Coyoda . All local mate.

Did I miss something?
I didn't see anything on your list that's going to get you 300 HP. Just spend a lot of money.

:slap: ....... pay attention, old man ........a JRSC and a tune should get him close to 300 HP ....... ;)


humfrz

In your opinions are all the handling mods neeeded? I definitely want more power out of this car but do I need to dump money on other things as well?

And ignore the exterior stuff as that's purely personal preference


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Tires improved grip and the coilovers reduced roll. I would suggest those two to get that "on rails" feel

i don't see the point of extensive handling mods on this car. handling is already very neutral. yes definitely bigger grippy tires (i have MPSS as well and love them) and maybe a small drop with springs or coilovers, but you definitely reach a point of diminishing returns. If you are a skilled enough driver that the suspension and bracing is a limiting factor on this car then you are likely a professional race car driver.


as far as power, either accept that you are driving a quick car that is not exactly fast, or go forced induction. smaller mods to the intake/exhaust/ecu systems can smooth out the feel and squeeze a little more power out of the powerband but they don't fundamentally alter the feel of the car. after intake/headers/exhaust/tune you still have a rev-happy somewhat underpowered car, just one with a smoother powerband. A decent turbo or SC setup with bolt-ons can get you easily in the 250whp range but higher than that you will need upgraded engine internals, higher rated clutch, and definitely a big brake system. You are going to wonder why you didn't just buy a used Porsche 997 or Cayman. assuming you are old enough to drive.

I don't understand all the hate. There are plenty of people that want a powerful LIGHTWEIGHT rear wheel drive sports coupe. And unfortunately, while countless auto journalists preach on ad nauseum about how we're enjoying a "golden age" of performance cars, options for small lightweight cars have never been worse.

I'd start with what mrg666 advised and go from there.