Any UOA for manual transmission fluid?
 

I am going to put Motul 300 into both my trans and diff. However, I read an article on oils recently:

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/file...nsaxle_oil.pdf

One of the comments scares me a bit:

When we use a GL-5 product in a transmission that requires GL-4, we normally find 2 to 4 times as much copper in the used oil as we would with a GL-4 product (with used oil analysis). Eventually the synchronizers wear to the point that they no longer make contact with the other half of the cone, bottoming out before stopping the opposing gear.

We know the trans oil in 86 is spec-ed as GL-3, which has less EP than GL-4. So GL-5 oil is going to eat away our transmission even quicker? Since Motul 300 is both GL-4 and GL-5 compatible, I am kind of confused. What does it mean to be both GL 4/5 compatible? How does Motul managed to do that? Is Motul 300 is going to destroy our transmission quicker than OEM? Any advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

PS: Another scary comment:

You need to realize that an oil with GL-4/GL-5 on the label is a GL-5. It is not appropriate for synchronized transmissions.

Pentosin is GL4, but it is 75w80. OEM is 75w90. I am going to pick one from the two. Should I pick Motul or Pentonsin? Thanks.

Motul or gtfo

I figure as long as what your putting into the gear cases follows the specifications in your manual ....... it don't make no difference ......for average driving.

I'm ah feared you're overthinking this oil thing .....;)


humfrz

Any UOA for manual transmission fluid?
 

From someone on bobistheoilguy.com that is an oil blender:

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ub...ion#Post729255

That's why some uoa would be helpful. There is one from BMW. Seems to be okay.

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...Number=1165727


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Those deactivators work by creating a coating on the soft metals, protection them from the corrosive action of the EP additives. However in the case of synchros, their fundamental mode of function causes the coating to flake and chip off, which also takes a portion of the base substrate with it. Stick with GL4 or lower and it's not an issue.

Well, the spec calls for GL4 75w90 gear oil, here are two that fit the bill exactly. the problem is that both got bad reviews from 86 drivers. I choose pentonsin and motul b/c they got relatively less bad reviews. in fact, i have bought motul already. but i am okay to buy 3 qts other oil since i can use motul next time for diff anyway

Redline MT90,
https://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=46

Amsoil MTG
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-produc...r-lube-75w-90/

A while back I asked at a local parts store and the guy pulled out a Pennzoil (I think) GL3 75W90.

I did it back in 2015.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=88580

Nice. Thanks! Seem Amsoil is pretty good. Have you heard any negative feedback for Amsoil? Thanks.

I got the dimple magnet plugs should I buy 3 more for the fill and drain plug for differential and transmission?

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I switched from the oem fluid to the Amsoil MTG. Similar feel when cold and shifting in to 2nd gear. Other wise it's nice and smooth and I have no complaints with it.

I've got Amsoil in mine. It's ok... I am going to switch to Pentosin though. I think it had redline in it when I bought it (fluid was awfully red when I drained it...) and it shifted better than the Amsoil.

I only changed it because I wasn't sure what it had in it and wanted to be sure it wasn't the stock junk.

I'm running Amsoil MTG right now. Better than stock, especially during morning (80+ deg F. for me). Still having some issues with higher rpm 3rd to 4th shift, with a bit of grinding. Otherwise, it feels great.

Can't go back to stock fluid, since its impossible to get. Won't use any Valvoline products either. Will try Redline next.

Since I have already bought Motul, I decided to give it a try first. There is a link here with a lot of information.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19218

Additionally, this website has a much more graphic illustration. It is very easy to follow.

https://howtune.com/articles/158-rep...n-a-scion-fr-s

I removed the fill and drain plugs for MTF. To my surprise, there were almost no metal shavings on the drain plug. But I made a mistake when I put the under cover back. The four bolts that secures the undercover near the engine actually have smaller heads than the rest 7. It took me a very long while to notice this and almost did this three times before I got it right. This is a very basic error and hope others won't have this problem.

The Motul bottle did make things a lot easier. I easily dumped two entire bottles into transmission. Then I poured 0.25L from a third bottle into an empty bottle. Then I dumped all of it into transmission. The Motul bottle is basically a measured bottle with a flexible spout. This makes life a lot easier. Also I noticed that when I took the fill plug off, it is absolutely clean and dry. So I am wondering one might overfill the transmission if he keeps pumping MTF until it overflows a bit. It is a lot safer with Motul bottle.

The diff drain plug did have a lot of metal shavings, which is consistent with what others have reported. According to my previous experience, I expect to see a lot less metal shavings next time. Currently I have 30k on my BRZ. The next MTF and diff gear oil change would be minimum 40k later. I cannot put 1.3L gear oil into transmission. It started to spill out at about 1.2L.

I am very tired after engine oil change, tire rotation, MTF and diff oil change. Will test it tomorrow or on Monday. This is also my 1st 30k 'maintenance package'. I feel very comfortable to put engine air filter, cabin air filter and brake fluid to some distance future.

Why is it impossible to get?? Dealers should have it.

The factory fluid is not available in North america.

After driving with the new Motul Gear 300 for about 200 miles, my impression is that the new fluid is slightly better from 4 to 5, and from standstill to 1st. It is actually a bit worse from 1 to 2, and from 2 to 1. The characteristics remind me of the car when new. So my current theory is that the actual driving will 'shear' the MTF and make it thinner. Therefore the same MTF would change its characteristics during its life. I slightly prefer the feeling before the fluid change, but the difference is minor. If it is indeed due to age and use, it seems that one has to accept this kind of result.

I won't change it again for at least 50k miles. My next experiment might be Pentonsin.