ECUTek accelerator pedal adjustments
 

Can anyone advise on ECUTek settings to get rid of the horrible dead zone in the first few cm of the accelerator pedal?

I've gotten used to the dead zone, but I still loathe it very much. I came to the BRZ from several previous RX-7's, and the DBW dead zone at light pedal inputs is extremely annoying.

Thanks for any information!

Straight after ecu reflash the fist part of accelerator pedal travel will be dull.


however this should disappear after a few drive cycles.


If it permanent you may have other problems like throttle pedal sensor or throttle body. or fueling problems.


Have you driven another brz/86 and is your much worse ?


You can remap the pedal input to output with ecutek, its under the basic racrom features. You could have 4 different pedal maps depending on the map mode your using ie 1,2,3,4 but you would need the racerom extension to edit this.


you should have access to map 1 accelerator mapping with basic ecutek kit, as long as your tune is unlocked or your self tuning.


ecutek maps pedal input percent to pedal output so you can re map it to say 10% input gives 20% output or whatever.


but I suspect you have other issues with tune or hardware

hah I think your problem is here


http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...postcount=1540


Perrin 3" maf intake
This will likely cause issues.


Put stock intake back or rescale maf to suit the new intake.


Unless your turbo a 3" intake just causes you a pile of headaches for basicly nothing

Those logs are both fresh flashes for comparison of a stock rom with the Perrin MAF values vs the rom I paid to have tuned. I'm going to be going back to a full stock exhaust, and only have the Perrin 3" intake, and inlet tube. I'm not experienced with the flashes/tuning to know if a fresh flash affects LTFT, but I'll be taking some new logs after a week or so with the recent flash to see if those change.

Before those fresh flashes for those logs yesterday, the early pedal was definitely better. I was unaware a fresh flash would cause that to happen, which is likely the issue. I was hoping to get it even close to DBC feel, but I think I'll end up just having to be ok with how it is once it's used to a flash.

Thanks for the replies!

When i got my 2017 tuned with ecutek the gas pedal was horrible like there was a huge dead spot in the first cm of the pedal. After 400km it started to be better and now after 1000km+ the pedal feels a lot better than when the car wasnt tuned

happens whenever you reset ecu it looses all power or you reflash ecu with any tune system. Ecu learned parameters are reset to default values

The question is:
Can you CHANGE the ECU default values somehow so the learning is 'better' if you have a reflash or something like lose power from a battery disconnect for some reason?

Well you can avoid the throttle learning by using the pedal trick after a reset/flash. Fuel trim learning occurs quickly but can be improved by a better tune. There's not much else in it. I never have any of these issues.....

Yes if you do the accelerator pedal trick after flash, let car idle for minuite or so ofter flash or rest for cams and your maf scaling is good then learn time is quick

Would you be able to help me out with this. My pedal had a dead spot that won’t go away for about an half inch. When I compare it to my buddies 86 his is wayyy more sensitive with zero deadspot.

AFAIK stock throttle mapping in stock ecu tune is non linear, with more power commanded at less initial pedal travel, to fake feel of more powerful engine.
Thus some decide to change that map to more linear in ecu tune for finer partial throttle control. It should be requestable/tuneable by most tuners doing ecu tuning. By chance are cars of your buddies tuned?
Then there also might be issue of for whatever work disconnected battery or reflashed tune and ecu not yet relearned full pedal travel. One can google for "dead pedal fix". In short, after reasons that may have caused it, eg. disconnecting battery or reflashing, switch car to ON without starting engine, do few full press/release of throttle pedal, then switch Off, for ecu to relearn pedal travel. Then start engine and let it idle for 1min w/o touching throttle to relearn idle rpms. Then keep driving normally.

If your throttle pedal has a dead spot for that much travel, that doesnt go away it very likely its a hardware issue with ghe throttle pedal itself ot the throttle pedal sensor or throttle body.


You need to logs throttle pedal position and see if the valie changes as you touch car throttle if it doesnt change in the dead spot it likely connecrion to throttle sensor or the actual tthrottle sensor. Log ghe same on your friends car and check the difference. Theor are several throttle logging parameters and somerimes the naming is not clear if you !onitoring throttle pedal, or throttle plate in throttle body.

ive done this multiple times and no change has happened

I was looking at the throttle parameter and accelerator parameter. ill slowly push the pedal in and I wont get any response until I get out of that dead zone.. but when I look at the pedal parameters in the tunebot section of my oft you can clearly see its getting a signal when barely any pressure on the pedal. I have no idea how to fix this dead spot

If your car is NA on petrol with stock intake, try flashing back stock tune and see if it goes away

thanks for posting this i just reflashed my car for 700cc injectors and i have a hugh dead spot from 500 to 1100 just sent my tuner the email to see if there is anything he can do

I’m on the stg 2 e85 map

Ok well flashing to stock no go till your on petrol.


Can you​ post a log of tune with

• 
  
  
• Engine Speed (rpm)
• Throttle (percent)
• MAF Voltage (volts)
• Engine Load (g/rev)
• Ignition Advance / Total Timing (degrees)
• AFR
• Commanded AFR
• STFT (percent)
• LTFT (percent)
• Oil Temp (F)
• CL/OL / Fuel Sys Status (2 = CL, 4 = OL)
• IAT / Intake Air Temp (F)
• IAM / Ignition Advance Multiplier
• FLKC / Fine Learning Knock Correction (degrees)

Please post log to www.datazap.me