what mods should I do next?
 

I have a 2013 Subaru BRZ and i have done borla uel, invidia op, fp, and catback all from invidia. I have K&N cold air intake, open flash stage 2 tune for flex fuel, I have their kit for flex fuel. i've done the tom's tail lights. I just want the best thing for my car. Thanks in advanced

I would suggest tires but what are you trying to improve? Do you feel something is lacking or has the mod bug bitten?

Pine scent air freshener.

Maybe some f/r strut bars? I hear they would as advertised.

LS3 swap

Something cheap and relatively easy: Lightweight crank pulley.

Something more expensive: Lightweight rims, or a good set of coilovers (+LCA and camber bolts for alignment).

HPDE

FRS badges.

My friend, you have a long way to go, with plenty of options :)

Here is my mod list...

Window Tint (previous owner put it on) - $0
Interior LEDs (previous owner put them in) - $0
DiodeDynamics Always-On Module - 59
Black Steering Wheel Trim Piece - 27.40
OEM Armrest - 200
OEM Audio + - 1499
D4S touch-up paint - 14
Fatmat Sound Deadener - 55
Luxury Liner Pro Sound Deadener - 70
25mm/30mm Spacers - 267.70
Side markers - 50
Camber bolts - 24.24
Lowering Springs - 180.97
Exhaust Tips (for OEM exhaust) - 80
Tein Flex Z Coilovers - 795
Ambit RE02 Wheels - 500
Hankook Ventus V12 tires - 615.15
Mount tires on new Wheels - 150
Rear CARSMO Spoiler (already painted D4S) - 300
Vibrant Exhaust Resonator - 50.59
Muffler shop work (to get resonator placement right and some other stuff) - $100
Resonator install (second round of placement) - 60
Upgraded Trans fluid - 66.72
BasonR Front lip - 65
Crystal Eye Tail lights - 250
Sprintex 210 Supercharger - 2050 (included shipping and extra pulley)
TopSpeed Axleback Exhaust - 400
Extra midpipe (since I want to retain all my factory OEM parts and I already had the resonator welded into my stock midpipe) - 50
Anarchy Motive Shift Knob - 85
Bendy-Arm Phone Mount - 20
Shitty Lug Nuts - 25 (regret... but... not willing to pay 150 for lug nuts)
Window Visors - 50
EcuTek license - 350
MotoEast Tune - 200
OFT Tuner - 425
Gruppe-S UEL header - 515
MTEC shift springs - 38.09
Raceseng Sprintex 72mm Pulley - 100
Redline SC oil - 19.40
Motor Oil - 170.11
Local Performance-Shop Alignment - 185
Stock Tail Lights (to be painted -- broken by accident) - 100
Front bumper (replacement with paint) - 550
Front bumper repair (my DIY attempt before I caved and bought new bumper above) - 75
Shorty Antenna - 20
'Supercharged' Badge - 11
Moto East Flex Fuel kit - 550
Android HeadUnit Stereo - 305
Subaru Blue Coolant - 30

Sold: OFT (-400), Spacers (-100), Lowering Springs (-75)

Total: 11228.37

+ 2013 Car (22,000) + Taxes (1700)



Grand Total: 34362.37

EDIT: Planned mods: Hmm... maybe some catch cans. Maybe an oil cooler at some point (oil to water), but no real need while running E85 so far on street.

Not mods. Repair or maintenance items.


Still an impressive list.

Fair point! If I had to do it all again I wonder what i'd do differently. I'd certainly save on all of the screw-ups or self-broken items. Can't regret those things though... worth the learning experience.

Anyway -- OP -- Why not some cheaper mods to keep the modding-bug away? Perhaps a front lip, MTEC springs, or sound-deadener? All were worthwhile mods IMO (don't go expensive on a front lip.. it gets beat up anyway and looks almost no different depending on the look you are going for).

Buy a 2017. It's a modification.

Drivetrain mods are simple and cheap. Here's what I have.

Whiteline transmission insert - $30
MTEC shifter springs - $40
MTEC clutch spring - $40
Kartboy short shifter - $225
Kartboy rear shifter bushing
Torque Solution shifter carrier bushings $36
Grimmspeed master cylinder brace $100
Clutch adjustment - free

Weight reduction
LSx swap
NOS

Porsche Cayman mod.

OP, what are your goals?

Personally I'd start off with coil-overs, fully adjustable dampening and ride height. (You'd be surprised on how much better your car looks/performs lowered)
Wheels and tires with some nice lug nuts.
A front splitter (AeroFlow Dynamics or APR)
Side skirts and rear spats.
Convex side mirrors, Broadway mirrors.
It's all up to you. That's just based off experience from myself and other people that I've recommended.

lol. Good point. I had a 14 frs and got my 17 PP late January. As a daily driver there is not a huge difference, but as a track car it is amazingly fast. I have installed a front strut bar and change tire to Michelin PSS 225/45 R17. Lap time at NJMP Thunderbolt is around 1:42.


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Lightweight crank pulley, bigger throttle body, better tires, good coilovers, weight reduction.

No and no.
Both are a huge waste of money and the crank pulley can damage the crankshaft if it's not properly balanced.




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I've done both changes and they were not a waste of money. If you tried these options and you didn't see any changes, then please share your experiences. :)

There are two kind of mods, to improve lap time or just makes it look better. I know nothing about the second one. For the first one, change tire is essential. 235 or 245 max performance tire like PSS, re71r and you will feel a huge difference on track. Next, exhaust. Brings a little bit of horsepower and most importantly, can let you hear the rev of engine so you know when to shift (too many loud cars on track). Seatbelt is also a good choice. Stock seat is good enough but it is still not able to hold you in place, racing seatbelt is very useful. I'm using the Schroth Rallye 3ASM, no harness bar is needed, goes to stock mounting point but is a pain in the ass to install. Before you have a VERY GOOD plan, do not touch the powertrain and the chassis. Factory setting is awesome, if you don't have a professional helping you, don't mod it. I was way faster than a 250whp turbo frs on track.


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Here is a nice guy who knows what he is talking about. Seatbelt is not only for protection. In fact it is there to help drive faster! Without a good seat belt, you'll find fighting with yourself to stay in place :thumbsup:

Eh, if you're asking people on a forum what to mod, then that means you don't know what to mod, which means that you shouldn't mod anything. Modding for the sake of modding is stupid, and every mod you do should fulfill some purpose, even if it's just for looks.

Look at the car, drive it, figure out the things you want to improve, then make your mod list. If you're modding for a specific goal though, such as tracking or autoX, then you will need a specific set of mods.

lol. Thanks dude.


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Better shocks and struts would be my next choice. Bilstein makes a bolt in set for stock springs.

For a lot less money you will find that rear subframe bushing inserts are cheap and very effective. Transmission mount insert is a good idea, adds a bit of gear noise, also cheap and easy to fit.

MCA traction aids are an excellent mod, eliminates wheel hop and improves drive out of corners.

Finally, a front anti roll bar increase to 20 mm makes a big improvement as does fitting softer rear springs from the 2017 model year. Both help you get drive down onto the road in hard cornering.

Although I fit better tires first if I had a do over I would fit better tires last. Increasing the grip available first just makes the other modifications more important. Doing the suspension first and then adding better tires makes more sense to me now. Bonus to doing suspension first is you can explore the limits of the car more effectively after the suspension changes so you'll be in a better position to decide how much better grip you want and also enjoy the higher limits safely.

Trouble with fitting better tires first is everything gets faster and more demanding right away with grippier tires. Sticking with the stock tire lets you explore the car's amazing handling at safer and lower speeds.

Best advice on the thread.

All but one of my mods was done because over a period of months or years I kept thinking, "I sure wish this car had _____." My comfort mods, like the FRS armrest, padded knee panel, Cusco accelerator pedal and ceramic window tint all came about because I would think, "Damn my knee hurts," or "Damn that sun is hot." Cosmetic mods came about the same way, where I would look at the car and just not be quite satisfied with the way it looked stock.

The only performance mods I have are the wheels and tires, which I didn't swap on until the stock tires were worn down to the tread markers. The car just doesn't need much unless you're trying to shave every second off your track time.

Oh, and the one mod I did because I got caught up in mod fever? Beat Sonic Blaid antenna. The most idiotic mod ever. Eventually I came to my senses and took it off. I should sell it, but the ad would read something like: "Piece of shit Beat Sonic Blaid antenna for sale. If you want to make your car look exceptionally stupid in a single mod, this is for you."

weight reduction is free. Just strip the car as much as you want. Also an aluminum driveshaft is a good mod, as is a lightweight flywheel and depending on how you use the car a lighter battery is nice too.

but it really depends on what you want to do with your car. People here mention sound deadening and the like and that to me is a waste of money, but I've been in a friends car who did a ton of it and he took the time to do it so well you literally could not even hear the windshield wiper motor. It was really amazing.

When I bought the car I wanted to gut it, get it down to <2500 lbs because racecar. Now I'm looking forward to turning it into more of a GT car eventually, comfy cruising with fun on demand sounds like a great combo. A little softer on the suspension and a bit of sound deadening, fix up all the rattles, start taking care of the paint, etc.

I'd love to beat on it all day at the track and take the long way home the next day.

:burnrubber: