Throttle Delay Fix.
 

I have searched and searched, but there doesn't seem to be too much information on fixing the slight delay between pushing in the gas pedal and the engine revving. Occasionally I find myself yearning for my old 240's instant response.

I have a K&N filter, Gruppe-s UEL header and the Openflash Tablet with OTS stage 2. Is there anything I could do to eliminate or lessen throttle delay?

Thanks.

And yes, I am aware that there are limitations to throttle by wire but any additional insight is greatly appreciated.

Pedal dance. Cut the vehicle stability system out of the circuit. It's my pet peeve so I'm the guy that does it even in stop&go traffic.

Does holding down the traction control button help? I tend to drive with the sport setting, but never really compared it to traction off.

VSC traction buttons only effect the stability control setting does not effect throttle response


log the tune make sure you ltft are fairly low at lower rpm like 5% or so also log when you jump on the throttle at lower rpm see if it bogs, you may need to either adjust load limits or lean out the low rpm/high load are of the ol fuel table


check your iam=1 and for any significant knock flkc or fbkc when you open throttle agressivly, knock correction and low iam will dull throttle response


as will running too rich

No. Holding down traction control does not reduce the latency or whatever the hell it does. It still processes the accelerometer, wheel sensor, steering wheel position... all those inputs.

Pedal dance.

I'd be keen on figuring out a way to prove (or disprove) it but I still swear that shit interferes with my right foot during normal operation.

It will reduce throttle if loss of traction stability etc is detected. You can see it in logs if you log throttle pedal position vs throttle plate.


But im pretty sure it does not switch in a separate throttle map like in some subbies with the sport/sport sharp.


but yes to be 100% you would have to wade through the code.


ecutek do have features to remap throttle but this is extra ecutek racrom code not in stock code

Thanks for all the replies. Looks like an E-Tune is in my future(not too keen on messing with tunes myself.)

It pulls throttle, or to be more accurate, feeds throttle more gradually if applied mid-turn. This is even before any loss-of-traction event is detected AND even if TCS is disabled via the button. I've picked out a specific corner and tested this enough to convince myself but I don't have hard numbers. :(

Time for a standalone ECU!

How the ECU reads tables, effects how it reacts to inputs
 

The resident man of knowledge about these ECU's had this to tell me about the DBW tables;
"Well, the basics are 3 sets of tables - requested torque base, which is effectively a denominator that is used in conjunction with the requested torque A/B/C tables (which are different SI Drive modes) which feeds into the target throttle opening table.

In a nutshell, the requested torque at a specific RPM and accel pedal opening is divided by the relevant number in the base table to give you a ratio (e.g. 200 divided by 250 in the base table). This then gives you a ratio, that is the axis of the target throttle angle tables.

These tables can be tweaked for a more or less linear feel to the pedal - i.e. you can have it got WOT with very little pedal action (the stock approach) - which feels more 'peppy' but is less linear - or you can even it out to have a more 1 to 1 feel (i.e. 50% accel pedal equals 50% throttle). "

In my research about changing the DBW tables I found out that the ECU reads from right to left, so tables that have "filler" columns, (columns essentially the same as the column next to them) on the right side of the table will cause the ECU to react slower, than tables with the "filler" columns on the left side.

This is part of the reason there is a delay after throttle input. The solution, get a tune.

:burnrubber:

Is that delay of reading columns measurable in logs?

It would be, if that was the only thing changed. But, since anyone who is modifying those tables would be changing a lot more, it's not really something that is done , if you know what I mean. The throttle could be made super-responsive, but it would be the cause of other problems. Drive-ability for one. There are also multiple types of delay. The delay from idle to acceleration is one. The delay from slow acceleration to fast is another. Which delay is bothering you the most?

Probably the one that bothers me most is the idle or slow to acceleration, once I'm hard on the gas it's a tiny bit harder to notice.

wait, the pedal dance will remove the delay?

I thought it was just an after effect of the stupid drive by wire.

Nope. Prepare to be amazed. It acts like a regular throttle. Been preaching this for a couple years.

OMG. This just blew my mind.

Other than the clutch (which you can't feel at all) the throttle lag has been the only? (that I can think of right now lol) complaint about this car. Holy cow.

Did you try it? It's subtle but very real.

Now, for the clutch, have you seen my one and only mod thread? I'm not really excited about the SS braided line but what the hell.

DIY - Swap clutch slave cylinder and hydraulic line for improved feel and control

Yeah, I've swapped the slave and removed the spring. Still very unhappy with the clutch feel. It works, but most other cars I've owned/driven you could really feel when the clutch starts to engage. I feel like this car kills that some how. I've learned to live with it haha.

Did you lower the engagement point as well? I hear that make a world of difference.
I have the Mtec clutch spring in order, gonna adjust when I do the install.

Have you removed the clutch helper spring from the pedal assembly. it makes a world of difference. There's a sticky somewhere with instructions. I think it took me all of 10 minutes.

Umm...

Yeah, it's better but not wonderful. I understand that the clutch was specified for the torque limit of the transmission, which makes sense. I wonder if all other things being equal, just installing a stronger pressure plate would do the trick. Not anything radical, just one with a bit more spring constant.

Anyhow, to OP, apologies for the thread jack. This is about throttle response. :cheers:

Well, that or buy one of these.

http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/mig-...ator-2007.html

If you haven't done the clutch mods start with that. I know it sounds stupid, but even with a tune the gas pedal drove me nuts. I didn't notice it nearly as much when I took out the spring in the clutch pedal. I still haven't done the slave cylinder mod though, I actually like the clutch like this. :iono:

Are you running a tune or stock?

Delicious Tunings latest (to me, I haven't seen my car in a few months) tune seemed to fix the garbage low load throttle response. I'll take the occasional bucking of an undamped throttle over the stock feel any day.

I'm bone stock. Been threatening to start tinkering for a long time. I'm leaning toward first learning how to swap ECUs so I know I can quickly get back to stock if I brick my beater one. I'm chicken.

Bawk bawk bawk!

Once you get the mod bug, you can't stop :P

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1TphEh0Qgv0"]Arrested Development - Chicken Dance (Whole Family) - YouTube[/ame]

I'm always late to the party.

http://i.imgur.com/UTbveEY.png

I don't think there's much risk of that anymore, not with ECUTEK. But I can appreciate that worry. I keep a spare phone incase my modding bug cause me to brick my daily driver. It happened last weekend actually. I managed to get it back to life, but there was about an hour where I was getting pretty nervous.

The risk of "bricking" ECU is pretty small with any flash system as long as you follow some simple checks. applies to all systems

its actually pretty difficult to brick them unless you do something weird or are extremely unlucky.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=99171



swaping out an ecu is pretty easy, any 2012-2016 ecu will work as long as you have ability to flash the correct rom into the new ecu.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2579291

ive seen ecu for as low as $60 in usa but i doubt you will need one

Thanks, Steve. I've been following you and your friends' stuff since I first joined. It's all a matter of practice and practical experience. You are amazingly supportive to all us noobs. :cheers:

oops. haha, read too fast.

I thought I was the only one.
I'm about to pull fuses FFS.

So many morons are going to be driving around in pedal dance mode, thinking they're excellent drivers... until they're not.

Then there's the flip side; people driving with traction, stability and other aids on that drive way past their limits because they think the electronic aids will save them. When I turn off traction control it's always in the back of my mind and I drive like I could lose traction at any corner.

You say that like every single car ever produced has a sky hook to keep it on the road. The only people who are going to have a problem, are the ones who have relied on it for far too long.

how long ago did you flash the tune? i know that every single time ive ever had to reflash that the first few degrees of pedal travel get 'numb' for the first 50-100 miles of driving. dont know if this is what you're feeling but i have mods not crazy dissimilar to yours and other than this self correcting issue ive never felt like there was a throttle delay.

You might be a magical driver, but others aren't.

It's not there for when everything is going great. Modern stability control and traction control is friggin amazing. It does things that no driver could ever do.

It's there to help you if you're on the road with other drivers -- unpredictable, stupid drivers -- who will cut you off, slam on their brakes at something you can't see in front of them, swerve around, have shit fall off their trucks and give you a split second to react.

Leave the pedal dance for the track.