Carbon Fibre Fiber Vinyl Car Wrap
 

Hello fellow DIY enthusiast,

I am trying to wrap a Toyota 86 Dash with Carbon Fiber Vinyl Wrap. The problem is the first time I did it...FAIL, I think I bought Vinyl Wrap that was for external use not for internal use.

I am looking for some 5D or 6D Carbon Fiber Vinyl Wrap that is of at least $20 like my last order.

I am hoping someone can get in touch about this soon so I can get started and not make the same mistake again?

Cheers all



Link of stuff I bought previously:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/221692061...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

If your car is RHD, you could consider the TRD real carbon fiber interior parts. Cheers.

Yes I've looked into that, but a bit expensive.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Toyota-FT...oAAOxy4dNS8MuH

$314 for the kit

I am going the the Vinyl Route as its cheaper with the same result. Though saw this on e-bay also for $100, which is just the Dash side Carbon Fiber.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/13-14-SCI...MAAOSwAuZX02T4

Ordered some $13 5D Vinyl Wrap that is unbranded, this time I know I need to heat the Vinyl Wrap with a hair dryer or something to allow it to be more flexible + take time to do it and don't rush.

No-name vinyl is usually not a good way to go, the longevity of it isn't the same as the good stuff and perhaps more importantly for interior wraps it can be extremely difficult to work with especially on complex shapes.

3M 1080 vinyl comes in carbon fiber if I'm not mistaken, usually a safe bet, tried and trusted. Its more expensive than the cheap no-name stuff though. Good luck, post results up

After a first failed attempt I believe I used the wrong Wrap for the Job, Im sure it was External Vinyl Wrap, but now after some serious fiddling and with help from a family member....finally a $13 Vinyl wrap actually looks sweet and glad I made the effort. :w00t:

Two other cabin door sections I did today, getting the hang of it.......:w00t:

What a Tit this was to do...............:mad0260:

I just did my interior pieces for the second time. My first wrap lasted around 2 years and I began to see minor bubbles in a few areas -- this may have been due to my prepping. I don't remember if I cleaned the surfaces before hand. The vinyl I used the first time had no gloss coating, you could feel the ridges that gave it the cf look.

This time around I bought the 4D stuff which has a semi-gloss to it and you cannot feel the texture. It looks like there is now even better stuff out there with more of a glossy look so I may switch over to better stuff soon.

This wrap does the interior wonders. I hate the silver painted parts, wish they had just gone with a plain black. I need to figure out what to do with the plastic on the steering wheel and the vents. Have you wrapped those? And if so, did you remove them or do them in place?

Here's my last 2 nights of wrapping. The pictures do not give it justice, when the light hits it right, it's amazing how well this looks like real CF.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...228_182527.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...228_182550.jpg

Hi B-R-Z

Its a bit of fun and you get to know your car. I recently cleaned out my air con filter for the first time, easy 10 min job.

I haven't attempted to Vinyl Wrap my steering will even though I want to. The steps seem quite simple, but it includes removing the air bag on the steering wheel. Looks fair simple from the video or the guy that I followed to do the other Vinyl Wrapping, however I don't want to void my warranty on my car or stuff something up.

The center gear shift peace is not the perfect job (has air bubbles) and I might want to re-do it in future or buy the $50 peace and just get it done.

You can follow the video of how to do the steering wheel, let me know if you get anywhere.

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AAS_1a7sgvs"]FRS/BRZ: How to Remove and Vinyl Wrap Steering Wheel Panel - YouTube[/ame]

Chris

I'm nervous about removing the air bag, that is why I have not done mine.

For the gear shift I just bought the black oem piece along with the black buttons.

This is the cheapest Carbon Fiber Gear Shifter Surround Trim I've seen, looks good it things get out of control lol:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/121490959...84.m1436.l2649

for those who've wrapped the steering wheel trim piece, is it ok to just remove the airbag from the wheel and not disconnect it, then remove the trim piece ? Or is that not suggested? thanks !

Watching that video it does look pretty simple and I might go for it. My fear is/was the bag blowing up in my face.

It looks like you can pop the airbag out and then remove those screws to get the plastic piece out without ever having to actually disconnect the airbag wires. I think I'm still going to disconnect my battery beforehand bc I don't trust airbags.

Give it a go..................BOOM :eyebulge:

i was thinking the same,

disconnect battery > take airbag off > take trim piece off > wrap then re-attach trim and airbag when all done

let me know if you get around doing it. i need to order some 3m wrap until i can try

Will do. Any specific reason you're going with the 3M wrap?

Centre Coil Area Wrap with custom red boarder
 

Attempted to do my center console with the Coin area, found it very difficult to cut out with the coin area being very odd shape.

I ordered a red boarder peace from US to help me cut out the Vinyl Wrap. It came out nice to be honest.

Only reason is because i wrapped other bits of the interior (door handle and the circle around the shifter) so i want to keep the car the same consistency in terms of material and color

Re-did my interior this weekend with the glossy '5D' wrap. This stuff looks so close to the real thing it's insane. Had enough to do door handles, both dash panels, sides of climate control area, circle vents and steering wheel panel with a 5x1 foot piece @ $7. Thinking about doing my side mirrors, too.

http://i.imgur.com/86dlahr.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/9TJ35Zl.jpg

Looks good spent $13 Aus Dollars on some 5D wrap myself, I'm thinking of doing the side climate control area next. Just need to find out how to dismantle the area.

When wrap did you use mate and how did you do the circle vents I found that really had to do as it was such a small piece.

The climate control sides are the only hard/annoying pieces to remove, aside from the steering wheel piece which requires removal of the airbag. The vent rings are a little annoying, but not nearly as bad.

I used this wrap: http://www.ebay.com/itm/281791346935...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

When heated, it molds better than the 2 previous wraps I've used. It was a bit warm today and the corners around my radio lifted a bit and I took the piece out to apply some heat gun love to it to hopefully get it to sit.

I expected the circle vents to be much harder than they actually were. The wrap went on surprisingly easy. The hardest piece hands down is the piece that goes around the radio.

http://i.imgur.com/5ulwWeu.jpg

Looks like you used the simular wrap to mine.

I cannot believe you removed the airbag......I am tempted, but really don't want to. Does it seem dangerous? - how did you remove the climate control side?

Chris

I didn't do the steering wheel piece yet, likely this weekend though. It looks pretty simple, you just pop a screw driver into 3 holes to release it, balance the airbag in the area, remove the bolts/screws holding in the plastic piece, rest the airbag in place while doing the wrap, then re-install in reverse order. I am just popping it out and not going to disconnect any wires.

Climate control sides are annoying. There is a youtube video that I used, just search brz interior wrap. IIRC, its the bolts under the center console rubber, the bolts under the shifter surround, bolts under the radio surround (these bolts are actually holding the pieces in place). Then I think you have to pop out each of the sides and then you remove a screw holding the silver piece into the black side.

Cheers B-R-Z

I tried today to remove the reverse lockout pin and install a new reverse lockout (RED colour), but epic fail

I realised that you can only take the pin out once that's it doesn't bother trying to put it back.

I will have to buy a custom reverse lockout line $120 that has Allen key nut that allows you tighten the reverse lockout instead of having to hammer the pin back in.

I also tried to install a wifi front camera today in the grill, but again fail. I have to look into what I am doing wrong.

Front camera will probably be just as easy to wire in (non Wi-Fi). What is the purpose of front facing camera?

I thought about a side camera to help me park to avoid curbing a wheel.

Basically so I dont bump the front some roads still have old coucil curvs.

But is it used while you park or while driving?

I supposed it can be used for both, but mainly while parking in tight areas.

The plan is to install an android head unit then use the wifi function of the head unit to wireless connect to the camera. As at the moment I just got a phone mount and my android phone.

I kinda want to do that, except like I said on the sides for when I have to park along a curb. My wheel came within less than a centimeter from curbing a few summers ago and was super lucky to get no damage.

I think your setup will be just as easy running a wire from the cam to the radio -- I don't know why you're trying to get fancy with a wifi connection. Wired cams are dirt cheap and simple to set up.

The problem is one port will be used for the reverse camera, so not sure I how I wire it up to the head unit. The camera has a lot of interesting flexible wires that allow you to change the reverse view and enable and disable lines on the picture.

However, it has a remote wire on that I think is causing a problem for me - I think its suppose to be ideal situations as a reverse camera so when you go into reverse it turns on via remote wire. As at the moment I haven't got it to work for some reason there is no picture.

You need to figure out what voltage goes into the trigger wire. You then will need to get crafty and feed it that voltage when you want the front camera to be turned on--easiest will probably be a toggle switch. You also need to figure out how to input the video signal to your radio; I'm not sure whether your unit is built to handle auxiliary video inputs, or if you have to fool it into thinking your reverse camera is on. Either way, it's doable but you may need to use relays and/or a voltage reducer (if it needs 5V+ instead of 12V+).

I am going to see an electronic guru at my University who does a lot of soldering and geeky wiring I am sure he will point me in the right direction, but it seems to me that the trigger wire is the problem here or the voltage is being drained somewhere.

Here is an example of it how wired up:

Attachment 153444

This is relatively easy to do yourself. You just need to make sure the camera is getting the voltages that it expects. Just so you know, the OEM radio outputs only 6 volts on the camera power line and your camera requires 12 volts so if this is how you have it wired up, it will not work. You need to connect the power wires directly to a 12VDC power source and then give the trigger wire the voltage that it expects -- this voltage is not specified in the image you posted.

I was in the same boat as you when I added a reverse camera since my camera requires 12VDC. Take a look at this thread, I explain a bit how you can easily fix the issue.

Some people, and as your instructions indicate, tap into the wire that powers up the reverse lights, but I would advise against this as a power source.

I connected the wifi transmitter to the battery, it seemed to work as before my old camera. I tried to connect the new camera to the battery with a switch, so I can turn off the wifi transmitter and camera when I don't need to use it and not use power on the battery. The only wire that I did not connect was the remote wire, I didn't really know what to do with it.....I assume at the time after a lot messing around that it's why it's not working or the wifi transmitter has packed up as I can no longer reset the wifi transmitter to the factory default.

I am holding back connecting it directly to the factory head unit as I want to upgrade in future to an Android version.

I see what my Guru friend makes of it, maybe he can work his magic on the wires.

You need the remote wire to be connected because that is what tells the camera to turn on. If you're familiar with car audio amplifiers, it's the same principle as the remote turn-on wire on the amp. While the camera has power being fed to it, it's not being 'turned on'. You should try connecting the remote wire to 6 VDC+ and see what happens.

Here's how your wires should be connected:

• + = 12VDC +
• - = 12VDC -
• Back/Reverse trigger = The voltage for this wire is not specified, you should contact the vendor to confirm what this wire needs, or check your instructions. My guess is 6VDC, but it could need 12VDC. This should only get power when you want the camera to turn on
• Camera RCA input = This should be labeled 'Camera RCA output' since it outputs the video feed from the camera. This is connected to your wifi transmitter? or directly to the radio video input

Since you're using a wifi transmitter, it would be best to allow this device to only have power when in reverse so it does not drain your battery. I can write up a wiring diagram for you, I just need a list of all wires and their respective voltage requirements.

Ah yes, the more I talk with you the more it's making sense now, yes I remember back in my younger days when I installed an amp in my older car, remote wire tells the amp when to come on when you switch the car stereo on.

I've sent an e-mail to the supplier asking for the remote voltage spec

Here is the 903 wifi transmitter spec:

https://www.amazon.com/WishRing-Back...TTSX872RV1062V

@FRS2017

Based on the images, it looks like the transmitter does not have a turn on wire--when it gets power, it turns on. You will need a relay if your radio outputs 6V on the reverse wire, which you need anyway to power the camera since it also needs 12V, so this doesn't require any extra work/wiring. It's very easy to wire up, I would even do it for you if you cover the cost of parts.

I'm guessing the camera remote wire is 12volts, as it says under IMPORTANT part of the picture.

What are we talking about price here? - I have a current switch for the Wifi transmitter, so how is the remote wire going to work? - some sort of loop back to the 12volts wire or something? - As I said I am waiting till I can save up for the Joying head unit, which looks like the perfect head unit upgrade for the Toyota 86.

I appreciate the input though it's certainly clear things up :)

I think that Important comment is referring to the power, not remote wire.

Relay is only a few bucks, plus shipping the stuff to you.

I have a unit sold by Eonon, same family of android radios as Joying. Perfect fit and I love it. This pic is 2 years old with the first cf wrap that I did.

http://i.imgur.com/TvwzUon.jpg