Lakitu's Toyota 86 Journal
 

2017 86 daily driver with focus mostly on an enjoyable daily drive experience.


----- Phase 1 - Intake/Exhaust/Suspension/Wheels/Tires/Brakes/Steering ($9564)

[x] Exhaust: $880 - FT86 SpeedFactory V1 Resonated Catback (DONE 09/22/17)

[x] Intake Filter: $52 - K&N Drop in Filter (DONE 10/02/17)

[x] Tuning: $500 - OpenFlash Tablet (DONE 11/03/17)

[x] Inlet Hose: $95 - Black Perrin Inlet Hose (DONE 11/07/17)

[x] Header: $766 - JDL Catless UEL w/ Grimmspeed Gaskets (DONE 12/7/17)

[x] Intake: $330 - GrimmSpeed Cold Air Intake + intake snorkel cut (DONE 12/19/17)

[x] Wheels: $930 - Black Enkei TS-10 18x8.5 +45 (DONE 05/03/18)

[x] Tires: $907 - Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 245/35R18 + Labor (DONE 05/03/18)

[x] Clutch Spring: $0 - Removed (DONE 05/04/18)

[x] Suspension: $995 - BC Racing BR Coilovers (DONE 06/09/18)

[x] Front/Over Pipes: $749 - JDL Catted Only (DONE 06/13/18)

[x] Bushings #1: $63 - Perrin Shifter Bushing w/ Whiteline Trans Mount Insert (DONE 07/21/18)

[x] Shift Springs: $33 - MTEC Shift Springs (DONE 07/21/18)

[x] Drive shaft: $945 - DSS Carbon Fiber (DONE 07/21/18)

[x] Studs & Lug Nuts: $204 - ARP 100-7716 + Muteki 32905B SR Black (DONE 07/22/18)

[x] Brakes: $635 - FT86 SpeedFactory Stage 1 Brake Kit + DBA T2 Rear Rotors (DONE 07/22/18)

[x] Strut Tower Brace: $135 - GrimmSpeed Bar (Black) (DONE 08/12/18)

[x] Bushings #2: $135 - Whiteline Subframe Inserts + Whiteline Rear Diff Inserts + Whiteline Steering Mounts (DONE 08/12/18)

[x] Rear Lower Control Arms: $579 - Velox Lower Control Arms (Red) (DONE 04/13/19)

[x] Rear Toe Arms: $295 - Velox Toe Arms (Black) (DONE 04/13/19)

[x] Brakes Brace: $76 - Radium Master Cylinder Brace (DONE 04/21/19)

[x] Engine Mounts: $260 - STi Engine Mounts (DONE 04/21/19)


----- Phase 2 - Exhaust/Suspension Revisions ($5602)

[x] Front Pipe #2: $399 - JDL Catted+Resonated (DONE 05/23/19)

[x] Over Pipe #2: $232 - Invidia 2.36" (DONE 05/23/19)

[x] Suspension #2: $1800 - RS*R Sports-i Coilovers (DONE 08/18/19)

[x] Exhaust #2: $1071 - Perrin 2.5" Resonated Catback (DONE 09/25/19)

[x] Suspension #3: $1800 - RCE Superstreet-1 Coilovers (DONE 05/11/22)

[x] Over Pipe #3: $300 JDL Overpipe 2.5" (DONE 05/04/25)


----- Phase 3 - Forced Induction ($6230)

[ ] Turbo: $5135 - JDL UEL V2 Turbo (GTX2860R, welded pan, 3 bar, silver hot, black cold, VTA, 2.5in, bumper)

[ ] Tuning: $1095 - Delicious Tune


----- Phase 4 - FI Supporting Mods ($919)

[ ] Turbo Blanket: $178 - PTP Lava Turbo Blanket

[x] Clutch: $741 - Exedy Stage 1 Clutch + Exedy Flywheel + Verus Fork & Fork Pivot


------ Cosmetics/Support

[x] Tint: $100 Labor (DONE 08/12/17)

[x] Floor Mats: $110 - WeatherTech Floor Mats (DONE 01/10/18)

[x] Shift Knob: $140 - Raceseng Smoke Translucent (DONE 07/18/18)

[x] Reverse Lockout: $25 - GCS Reverse Lockout (DONE 07/20/18)

[x] Cup Holder Mats: $15 - Smabee Red Slot Pads (DONE 07/30/18)

[x] Side Markers: $63 - Helix Smoked (DONE 12/25/18)

[x] Button Decal: $3 - 86 Vinyl Decal (DONE 12/25/18)

[x] Auto Headlight Bracket: $27 - Verus Auto Headlight LCA Bracket (DONE 05/11/22)

[x] Steering Wheel: $300 - EASSAFEX Carbon Fiber (DONE 06/13/25)

[ ] Trunk Cover: $200 - TRD Aero Trunk Cover



----- Updates

08/17/25: Installed LED Underglow Lights Kit

07/19/25: Car Released from Shop with Fresh Coat of Paint

06/23/25: Car in Shop for Repainting for $3600

06/13/25: Installed EASSAFEX Carbon Fiber Steering Wheel

05/04/25: Installed JDL 2.5" Over Pipe

05/11/22: Installed RCE Super Street-1 coilovers, and Verus Auto Headlight Bracket, removed Perrin sway bars, removed Perrin end links

05/09/22: Received RCE Super Street-1 coilovers

05/04/22: Ordered RCE Super Street-1 coilovers

01/13/20: Ordered Verus clutch fork, Verus fork pivot, Exedy flywheel, Exedy stage 1 clutch

09/25/19: Received and installed Perrin catback

09/20/19: Ordered Perrin 2.5" resonated exhaust

08/18/19: Installed RS*R coilovers, added Perrin front/rear sway bar, Perrin front/rear end links

08/15/19: Received RS*R coilovers

08/09/19: Ordered RS*R coilovers

07/16/19: Changed RCE coilovers to RS*R coilovers

05/29/19: Added Perrin 2.5" resonated catback

05/23/19: Installed JDL catted+resonated front pipe and Invidia overpipe

05/22/19: Received Invidia over pipe

05/17/19: Ordered Invidia over pipe

05/14/19: Received JDL catted+resonated front pipe (can't install, shaped differently, need OEM-style over pipe replacement)

04/21/19: Installed STI engine mounts, Radium master cylinder brace

04/20/19: Received Radium master cylinder brace

04/16/19: Removed IP Ignition Coils, added TRD aero trunk cover, ordered Radium master cylinder bracer, JDL catted front pipe (catted+resonated)

04/13/19: Installed Velox lower control arms and toe arms, uninstalled BCC rear coilovers

12/25/18: Installed Side Markers and Button Decal

10/15/18: Received Velox lower control arms and toe arm links

10/09/18: Received STi engine mounts

10/06/18: Received smoked Helix side markers (5-month wait..)

10/05/18: Ordered STi engine mounts

10/01/18: Ordered Velox lower control arms and toe arm links

09/25/18: Changed Perrin engine mounts to STi engine mounts, ordered 86 Vinyl Decal

09/24/18: Changed STi engine mounts to Perrin engine mounts, added Velox lower control arm and toe arms

09/21/18: Removed Mishimoto catch can, Door sills, Enforced Aero, front lip, GR side skirts, Toyota underpanels, Toyota armrest, FT86 rear diffuser, Seibon TS hood

08/27/18: Added RCE SS1 coilovers

08/18/18: Removed Jackson Racing radiator and oil cooler

08/12/18: Installed GrimmSpeed strut tower brace, Whiteline sub member assembly & differential bushings

08/01/18: Received GrimmSpeed strut tower brace, subframe/steering/diff bushings

07/30/18: Received and installed Cup holder mats

07/22/18: Installed DB rotors and ARP studs, added PTP Lava Turbo Blanket, Whiteline subframe/diff/steering inserts, STi engine mounts, changed Exedy lightweight flywheel back to Exedy OEM replacement

07/21/18: Installed GCS reverse lockout, MTEC shifter springs, Whiteline trans bushing, Perrin shifter bushing, DSS carbon fiber driveshaft, Motul Gear300 75w90 Synthetic Oil in transmission and rear differential

07/20/18: Changed strut tower brace from Hotchkis to GrimmSpeed, changed JSRC supercharger to JDL turbo, removed Hotchkis sway bars, added JDL bumper bar

07/18/18: Received and installed Raceseng shift knob. Received GCS reverse lockout, MTEC shift springs, DSS carbon fiber driveshaft

07/15/18: Ordered Smabee slot pads

07/14/18: Added IP ignition coils

07/13/18: Ordered Perrin shifter and Whiteline trans bushings, MTEC shift springs, DSS carbon fiber driveshaft, GCS red reverse lockout, Raceseng smoked shift knob

07/06/18: Added Hotchkis strut tower brace and sway bars

06/27/18: Added DSS carbon fiber driveshaft, Whiteline and Perrin transmission mount bushing, Toyota OEM underpanels. Change flywheel from Exedy Stock Replacement (21.43 lbs)

06/13/18: Received and installed JDL Front and Over pipes

06/09/18: Installed BC Racing Coilovers, EBC Red Stuff brake pads with Motul DOT 5.1 brake fluid, removed Subaru OEM Brembo calipers

06/07/18: Received and installed Replacement OEM driver side mirror

06/01/18: Ordered replacement OEM driver side mirror

05/31/18: Added "Intermission" section to resolve issues from car wreck before anything else can be done, added trunk liner

05/23/18: Ordered Helix Smoke Side Markers and rear DBA rotors

05/22/18: BC coilovers received, added Mishimoto Catch Can, Deatschwerks fuel pump and fuel injectors, Helix side markers

05/21/18: Changed calipers to Subaru OEM Brembo

05/15/18: Changed calipers to ATS Brembo kit, added Jackson Racing Radiator and Oil Cooler, Raceseng shift knob and more cosmetic items

05/12/18: Added Subaru OEM Brembo

05/10/18: Brake kit received

05/09/18: BC coilovers received (wrong coilovers)

05/04/18: Ordered BC coilovers, FT86 SF brake upgrade kit, JDL front pipe (catted), removed clutch spring, merged tuning and supercharger

05/03/18: Installed Enkei wheels and Firehawk Indy 500 tires

05/02/18: Enkei TS10 wheels received

04/26/18: Ordered Enkei TS10 wheels

03/22/18: Changed suspension to BC Racing BR, changed tire size from 225/40R18 to 245/35R18, added Exedy flywheel and clutch

03/15/18: Changed front/over pipe to JDL catted, changed wheels to Enkei TS-10, changed tires to Firehawk Indy 500 or Pilot Super Sport, changed suspension to Bilstein B14, changed supercharger to Jackson Racing C38, added Delicious tune

12/19/17: Installed GrimmSpeed cold air intake received

12/15/17: Ordered GrimmSpeed cold air intake

12/14/17: Changed Perrin intake to GrimmSpeed intake, added Weathertech Floor Mats, removed spoiler

12/09/17: Added Perrin cold air intake

12/07/17: Received and installed JDL UEL Header , OFT stage 2+ tune flashed, added Eibach lowering springs

11/30/17: Ordered header

11/20/17: Added Innovate supercharger

11/19/17: Wheels plasti-dipped to black

11/06/17: Received and installed Perrin inlet hose

11/03/17: OFT received and stage 1 tune flashed

10/31/17: Ordered OFT and inlet hose, removed Grams 72mm throttle body, moved header above wheels and short shifter above brakes, added shifter springs, changed wheels from 18x8.5 to 18x8 for tire size availability

10/22/17: Added JDL Ultra Quiet front pipe (catted only)

10/21/17: Changed header from FT86 SF catted UEL to JDL catless UEL

10/03/17: Changed from individual pieces costing $800 to SpeedFactory stage 1 brake kit, added inlet hose

10/02/17: Received and installed K&N filter

09/29/17: Changed header from FT86 SF catless UEL to FT86 SF catted UEL

09/28/17: Added motiv catted front and over pipe, added Grams throttle bottle as undecided

09/25/17: Added K&N drop in filter

09/24/17: Changed tires from 18x8.0/18x8.5 staggered to 18x8.5 squared, and going for cheaper summer tires as opposed to Michelin Pilot Super Sport (will upgrade later, this is just so I can have the wheels $500 sooner), moved brakes further down after header

09/22/17: Received and installed FT86 SF resonated exhaust

09/16/17: Ordered exhaust, removed supercharger, removed license plate frame, removed mud flaps, removed valenti tail lights, changed exhaust from Invidia N1, changed and merged wheels & tires

12/16/16: Car purchased new from Toyota, 23 miles

Tint was done a month ago, 15% sides, 5% back.

Sounds promising...we need pics once the wheels are on :thanks:

Nice exhaust choice, very mature and mellow sound. I think you will like it.

Exhaust installed on Friday night, the day before yesterday. Hardest part was getting off the damn oem muffler... SHEESH. Getting the hangers off the rubber pieces was a pain in the ass because the hangers themselves had capped endings. But a little DW40 brought me to victory!

I've just discovered the 72mm Grams throttle body. I'm contemplating getting one for a small gain and throttle response after I'm finish with headers and tune. If anyone knows of any red flags I'm unaware of, please let me know. Going to be doing a little more research about this interesting thing in the meanwhile.

Edit: Not doing this.

Got the OFT in today, hooked it up, made a backup of stock tune and it told me to email their sales team an ID for my specific car. They sent me the tune files in less than 5 min. I uploaded them to the device and flashed Stage 1 tune to the car. I'm currently running 93 oct with stock header and intake (with K&N drop-in filter).

First impressions: Car feels weird... It doesn't feel faster, but it does feel like gear 1 is an actual usable driving gear that you can steadily take to 3K RPMs, not just a temporary gear that you need to quickly get out of. It definitely makes it harder to drive like an ass in the first few gears, and more like a sensible being. It's more consistent.

But the drawback is I have to be more aggressive on the throttle than I did before on 1st gear to get going. It feels like the car is under-revved and underpowered, whereas before the car felt over-revved and underpowered, which is what I got used to. I've noticed my downshifting habits also need to change. Seems I now need to downshift at a bit higher than my normal 2K-2.5K or I end up too low in RPMs and start lugging.


Honestly, I don't think I like it. Maybe it will grow on me with time? It's almost like driving a different car, not the one I have been driving for 9 months that I've become well-acquainted with how it performs. I am just thinking of cases where I really need to get the car moving quick. I am accustomed to being able to burn past 1st and 2nd gear, getting high up in RPMs (while possibly sounding like an asshole) for making quick maneuvers, such as going from a dead stop to merging into high-paced traffic. Kind of worried that 1st gear has gotten a lot of its aggressiveness toned down.

It's late (1:30am) and I need to get a second or third look at this before I make a final call to reset the tune to stock. I'll drive it around some more this weekend. I'm hoping it grows on me. Maybe the evenly-spaced power bands is how most manual cars are meant to be driven, and is how most people expect to drive a manual.

The tune does not change when you have to shift. First gear can go to red line the same as any other gear so not sure why you would be shifting out of it at 3,000. The whole idea of first gear is to get the revs up fast at take off.

You will redo the tune anyway for that UEL header in your list, right? The sound of that catback exhaust will change with UEL header too. I would have started with the header.

Yeah, will be overwriting that when I get the header.

I know the sound will change, but I figure since I went with a resonated catback going catless shouldn't make it too loud and raspy and droney, shouldn't it? I've had to have watched over 30 youtube exhaust videos and came to find a few that were dead-on for the sound I was looking for, loud but a deep loud, somewhat more neighborhood-friendly of a daily driver. Ultra quiet JDL frontpipe (dual catted) will still be an option afterwards if I decide its just too loud. Going for getting as much power and torque out of the header as I can, so I switched from FT86SF catted to JDL catless. That and it being $200 bucks less makes it fairly appealing. But I'm not 100% hard-set and I've got time to change my mind. Thoughts?

Hm... It's possible that they gave me too aggressive of a Stage 1 tune? The car feels reeeaaally different. It's opposite of what it was before in gear 1 and 2. There's a lot more play in the throttle before it starts revving up, almost causing the car to stall before taking off unless I pick up the pace and pressure on the gas pedal. It's like its been desensitized.

I've also read that you need to drive it around a bit before it starts to feel better. Maybe that's it.

Do you have the header installed? Are you running the header tune without the header? Stage 1 is Stage 1 there are not different levels of it.

OH I just noticed your other post where you say you are getting the header. I think that is what is going on.

If I were you, I would choose ACE header and Delicious tune. Did you see this post?

Just saw that post, those numbers don't make any sense to me! 207whp with just a header and a tune! That's nuts. Unfortunately, it's outside of my budget! Plus, if I go EL I worry about losing the rumble that UELs have, according to videos and reviews.

Definitely something to look into in the future, though, if I decide I want more power on NA.

Coming from CSG, I believe that number is real. But emission laws are strict in NY, I would have gotten ACE header on top of JRSC with Delicious tune otherwise.

Regarding the UEL rumble, it is the sound of unbalanced pressure between the two rows of exhaust header. There is nothing magic about it. A good catback will give you the rumble without disturbing the balance of exhaust pressure.

Got the Perrin inlet hose, came with a license plate frame, which I swapped the dealership one out for.

During installation, accidentally pulled out the whole piece of the sound tube and no idea how to put the section back that needs to be capped. I read that this is optional?

Cranked it up, no strangeness going on with idle, and OK with a couple revs. Drove it around and noticed 2 things:

1. My normal control of clutch+trottle is no longer accurate in 1st gear. Car dips too low and almost stalls so I gotta give it more gas than I had to. I noticed this after the Stage 1 flash too, so it's only just a little more noticeable now. I'm certain there is no vacuum leak as I carefully connected and tightened those friggin hoses as tight as I could, making sure there is .500" clearance from the hose and serpentine belt. I noticed the OEM inlet had a little extra compartment for extra air to collect and be stored on standby, I presume. I wonder what the pros and cons are for that thing.

2. The engine winding-up/winding-down whistling noise is gone. But in its place is the hollow sound of flowing air in cabin as if I have the AC on when I don't. I'm guessing this is why the tube needs to be capped and not ripped out completely? I need to find out how to put it back so I can remedy this lol :P


I did a couple fast 7K-RPM shifts from 1st to 5th, and man does this thing roar. Smooth transitions after 2nd gear. The torque dip is still there but not as bad, but I notice after the torque dip the car doesn't all of a sudden lunge out at 5K rpms (like v-tec just kicked in!) like it used to. Seems to be more gradual and more consistent. I'm probably mixing more of the aftereffects of the tune into this report for the inlet, though. The tube mod probably doesn't contribute much other than cabin noise.

Though, I regret to say on one of the full open throttle accelerations I attempted I accidentally grinded gears with a partial shifter engagement to 2nd or 3rd, whichever, can't remember. I feel terrible... Maybe I should bump some priority into a quick shifter, maybe... Or stop being lazy and make sure the shifter is where it needs to be before I let off the clutch.

The Perrin inlet does away with the sound tube. You do not need to cap anything. Throw it away (or put it aside with the stock tube). Any sound you are hearing now has nothing to do with the sound tube.
Drive the car a bit and let the ECU change to adjust to the new tube. You can't change parts and expect an immediate response from the ECU.

Yeah. Like Tcoat says I think you might be mistaking that the ECU needs a good few I’m to re-adjust itself.

My battery ran flat while I was on holiday... started the car and had that spongy, weird pedal feel for about 50km while everything sorted itself out. Then it was back to normal fun.

Well, The smell is gone. I don't know if its because I've been running the heater as its Winter, or because I tuned the car with OFT, or because I took the car in for an oil change. No more waterlogged wooden cabin odors in my cabin!


Thinking About FI

Now that I've had the car for almost a year, I'm becoming curious for a little more power, specifically in the low and medium power bands, and with a budget less than $5,000. I am looking for immediate, readily available boost from 0mph, so centrifugal S/C and turbos are out, leaving twin screw. The Innovate S/C appeals to me at a cost below my budget.

After I finish with the intake (just filter and inlet) and exhaust mods (catless header, dual catted front pipe, catback) with the OFT tune for a gain of +20whp, I should be at 190whp, or 220hp.

After that, I will be looking toward the S/C for a gain of +50whp, putting the car at 240whp, or 270hp.

I feel is fairly modest and would be plenty for my daily driver with the occasional spirited run. Trying to stay on the safe side and remain "almost like OEM" with a notch up in performance, to get past the feeling like I'm constantly trying to catch up with automatics from the red light, and to hopefully cater to engine longevity.

Then I'll pick up a couple stickers for +5hp each to sweeten the deal.


$4,695 Innovate Supercharger complete kit (0.01630hp/$)
173.9whp -> 226.0whp (+52.1whp)
138.3tq -> 180.1tq (+41.8tq)

It's going to be a while before I have 5 grand to drop on this project (2~ years), so I've plenty of time continue to revise what I want as things change.

Installed the header last night, took about 3-4 hours, including a trip to borrow a 14mm deep socket from a friend and waiting for drizzle to stop. Didn't go 100% smoothly but I got it on there nice and snug with the Grimmspeed metal gaskets. Had to use the OEM gasket for the overpipe as the one that came with did not fit up to the stock overpipe. I'm guessing that's for a wider overpipe/frontpipe assembly. Thankfully I was proactive and lined them up before tightening them down, or I'd have had an exhaust leak for sure.

Took the OFT and flashed it to Stage 2+ (not sure what's the difference, maybe Stage 2 is EL and Stage 2+ is UEL?).

No CEL, but have to wait for the ECU to re-learn all over again... (sigh) first two inches of throttle is completely dead, no response at all, and it throws me off.

The sound is very pleasant with my resonated catback, definitely got a "angry growling dog" sound, or I guess we call it "subie rumble". But man, it is LOUD. Downshifting has me feeling uneasy a little bit as someone could get the wrong idea and think I'm revving at them. Finding myself paying more attention to throttle control, trying to shift between 2k and 2.5k rpms for minimum sound lmao. Definitely going for JDL Ultra Quiet / Dual Resonated frontpipe. I like the setup, but there's still more to do!


Two problems that I discovered:

1. The header didn't come with a heat shield wrap for the oil pan, I'm not sure what its called but I've seen a couple videos where people did get one with their header to keep the heat from the exhaust from overheating up the oil pan. Probably need to get one.

2. I noticed that some time after I installed the Perrin inlet hose, on the filter box, the opening where the inlet hose is connected has a dent in it about the size of an index finger. If I have to replace this entire unit I may as well just go cold air intake. Need to figure out a plan for this before anything bad happens....

GrimmSpeed CAI is installed, also did the snorkel mod, cutting the bottom half. Was annoying to do with a retractable razor knife, but it got it done.

Didn't notice much or any difference. Probably because the intake is performing like-stock because of the OFT tune I have. This is exactly why I went with GrimmSpeed - tested and proven backwards compatibility with no MAF tricks.

Still missing 2 inches of throttle pedal on the press, waiting for that to come back... I'm hoping it does.

I do at least have peace of mind that I've fixed a possible intake leak with the stock intake and Perrin inlet. Will take pictures of the engine bay and the stock intake box.

Wow. So, I re-flashed Stage 2+ and after 100 miles my car is BACK!! with tight throttle response, even at 6th gear. This is how I imagined the car should feel and it feels amazing, responds to even the slightest throttle tap, not sluggish like before. Having to push the gas pedal in so far down before the car does anything was annoying and just felt wrong. I was cackling like a maniac at how 1st gear hit 7000 rpms so QUICKLY. Now I have to adjust my own reaction time to match the car. This combination of mods is A+ for my needs right now and I couldn't be more happier! More than half way done with what I want to do to it.

Some pictures, didn't get any of the FT86 Speedfactory exhaust or the snorkel mod I did. I was able to do it all without removing the front bumper.　I am absolutely loving this setup.

https://i.imgur.com/DeY56Ck.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/C1IUoea.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/gxDzKpZ.jpg

New wheels with new tires are finally on, and what a difference in driving feel.

http://i.imgur.com/S8HWp2u.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/IswdYDj.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/WCXmFq2.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/a6BCos2.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/JIjXVf2.jpg

I'm starting to think I'm the only person who doesn't like those Firestone Indy 500 tires.

Great wheel choice though. Can't go wrong with Enkei.

I didn't know anyone hated these lol. They're rated pretty highly on tirerack, and I knew I could get them on credit directly from Firestone. And now I can immediately buy coilovers without waiting for next pay. The car feels so much more different than when it was on those HP Primacy. The ride feels more smooth with less vibration, less tire noise, feels more planted and stable on the road, less rolling resistance, and looks fairly more aggressive to boot. Lots of wins! I'm really happy with my build path so far.
:burnrubber:

I have the same tires and found them louder than stock, but it could be that I have some poly bushings in the rear. They're stickier than stock so the rolling resistance would be higher, I would imagine.

Nice build so far. Looks good.

Any plans to lower?

Absolutely! Ordering BC Racing coilovers today!

Is there still time to not order or cancel the order?

Save up and get something nicer...

There's time to still cancel, but I was sold on the price, fair amount of reviews on youtube, and expect it to be fairly cheap and entry-level. What would you recommend instead?

I've spoken with some friends and they told me BC Racing is the best budget coilovers you can buy to get lowered without much hassle, at the cost of full adjustability. Though, it's not what they run on their cars. They recommended against it if going for racing or tracking. I know at least one of them mentioned dropping $5,000+ on suspension alone, lol.

In that price range I would go for Tein over BC. Just my opinion. :)

WTF, I lost 3 paragraphs of everything I was typing because stupid session timed out...

Long story short, I started installing open-ended Muteki lug nuts and couldn't get some of the OEM ones off. Took it to the shop that installed my wheels. They tried to loosen one but broke the wheel stud. Told me I need new studs and $200 for labor. I politely decline.


I'll do it myself when I do my brake upgrade. It can't be that hard with the right tools and resources. Internet ftw.

I hate when that happens.

Studs aren't awful to replace. You might need a slide hammer to get the rear hubs off if you live where they salt for winter.

Coilovers and brake kit came in, but have the coilovers are for a Cadillac CTS and the brake kit is missing 2 rotors. Fabulous!

Frustrating... Been smooth sailing up until the very last few mods of my phase 1 todo list. So, I have been told rear rotors are not included in the brake kit. So, everything else came in fours except rotors. That doesn't make sense. How can this be called a kit? So now I have to order 2 more rotors which happens to fall below the $200 minimum for free shipping. So either spend another $20 on some misc part that I don't need right now, or fork out for shipping. That's awesome.

Whoa whoa whoa..broken studs on a 2017 car?


Who tightened your lug nuts last?? I would take it back there and demand they repair it.

Sounds like whoever tightened them last either cross threaded them and/or blasted the lugs on with an impact and not a torque wrench.

The same company that put the wheels/tires on were the last to touch the lug nuts. I initially just thought they were over-torqued so I took the car to them to have the lug nuts loosened and torqued to proper spec so I can get them off myself to do my upgrades, and they broke a stud off and tried to charge me for it!

Instead of throwing a fit, I decided to just take this as an opportunity to learn to do it myself, and save myself money in the future if it happens again.

But what sucks is I can't think of any way to safely put new tires on wheels and balance myself, other than taking it to a shop... My trust of mechanics continues to grow thin.

After some research, its apparent that the studs used on these cars are fairly cheap, all the more reason to NOT use an air wrench on them. I am replacing the studs with ARPs that have really excellent reviews and doing the install myself. Replacing rotors anyway, so its just one more thing to do before I'm finished.

If possible, perhaps put your car on jack stands and take the wheels/tires in to be balanced yourself?

I'm guessing you took it to a big box tire shop maybe? It's probably time to find a new shop! A performance-based one if possible.

I used to work at a run-of-the-mill tire shop and you wouldn't believe the kind of shit they do.

Yeah that was my mistake. I went to a generic tire shop that didn't specialize in performance. To be honest I'm not even sure if those guys even take pride in their work. Probably just working for a paycheck. I'll tell you one thing, its not happening again.