Oil Cooling - An In-Depth Look
 

Hey guys, Eric from Verus Engineering here with some more cooling information gained from another lifetime. I hope you find some of this information beneficial and helpful :cheers: . It's a lot of verbiage and not a lot of pictures but if you're interested in cooling your oil, it's a great primer.

https://static.wixstatic.com/media/b...c5883~mv2.webp

This will be a discussion for oil cooling, in which there are two main ways to cool oil. Engine oil, transmission oil, hydraulic oil, power steering oil, differential oil, and even shock oil can and will need cooling. We will focus on engine oil cooling in this article but the two cooling methods apply to any heat rejection application, each with their positives and negatives. There is not a lot of information regarding either of these methods, the positives, the negatives, or why sometimes they work and other times they do not. We want to help bring light to this somewhat “black art” of cooling the engine oil. The information we are pulling from is gathered from over decades of experience as engineers for the world’s leading cooling system supplier for motorsports. Working with ALMS, to Tudor World Series, to NASCAR, IndyCar, F1 and Trophy Trucks, we have firsthand cooling experience at the pinnacle of multiple motorsports ventures.

Why does Engine oil heat up?
Engine oil serves two functions, to lubricate the engine and to remove heat from components that coolant cannot (IE under the piston, rods, crankshaft, cams, etc). As a result, engine oil heats up from friction and from internal combustion increasing the temperatures of the engine.

Typical Oil Temperatures:
Before diving into how to cool the oil, we feel it necessary to express the large misconception with oil temperature that seems rampant within the aftermarket community and even some race series. Engine oil temperature IS NOT engine coolant temperature. Coolant temperature in passenger cars is generally kept between 180-215 degrees Fahrenheit (85-100 Celsius) with some reaching up to 230 (110 C) safely. Some race series run coolant temperatures up to 260 degrees Fahrenheit (127 C); however, these engines are designed to handle this without distorting the block or cylinder head.
Engine oil, on the other hand, is expected to reach much higher temperatures! Anyone telling you otherwise should be questioned intently. Engine oil needs to reach *at least* 100 degrees C (212 degrees F) to burn off condensation (water) build up within the engine *which is perfectly normal and happens in every single engine*. If oil does not reach this temperature, the oil is unable to do its job to the best of its abilities and increased engine wear will result. It is a wise assumption to believe oil temperature sampling is anywhere between 85-95% of the hottest points in the engine, which means engine oil needs to be 90-100 degrees Celsius minimum to burn off condensation.

So what temperature can you run in your car/engine?
That is quite a loaded question and near impossible to answer without a lot of testing. We can give it our best shot, though. Most passenger cars are perfectly fine with oil temps up to 240-260 degrees F *utilizing the OEM recommended oil weight*, with some being designed to handle temps up to 315 Degrees F and higher! How can this be? Standard oil these days have flash temps well over 200 C (400 degrees F), and as long as there is sufficient oil pressure, the oil does not care what temperature it is at. That being said, utilizing an OEM engine and OEM clearances, we would suggest sticking to the OEM oil weight up to around (240-250 Deg. F). If it makes you feel safer, run a bit thicker oil but with thicker oil, comes increased engine wear at cooler temperatures and increased heat into the oil through more friction and less flow (flow and pressure are inverse, as you increase pressure, you decrease flow). Above this temperature, we would recommend increasing the hot temperature weight to ensure sufficient oil pressure. Due to each engine having different optimum operating conditions, we cannot recommend a pressure/RPM to shoot for.

How can we get rid of this heat?
There are two ways to reduce the heat that is transferred into the oil. Oil to water (or O2W for short) transfers the oil’s heat into the engine’s coolant system through a unit typically called a heat exchanger. Another route is oil to air (or O2A for short), which transfers the oil’s heat through an exchange with airflow through a unit typically called an oil cooler. Both of these systems can be implemented incorrectly and work poorly, both of these systems can be implemented correctly and work great. Individual applications tend to favor a certain method over the other but ultimately that decision should be an end user choice as each person has his or her own goals, objectives, and ideals. Both can and will work great when properly executed.

Air to Oil (A2O) Oil Coolers:
https://static.wixstatic.com/media/b...7b41e~mv2.webp

These are the units you see on the front of cars and are generally square in shape and not that large. These use ambient air to cool the engine oil which flows through small tubes with internal turbulators, working very similar to radiators but with increased cooling directed at the slower flowing, high-pressure oil. These units are easy to implement across a wide range of applications as they only require application specific bracketry and lines. Overall, they are generally quite effective but have some pitfalls. The units are small enough to be placed in various places throughout the cooling stack, be it in front of the radiator, behind the radiator, or in front of the front wheels. Below are listed some positives and negatives for this type of cooler.

Positives:
-Extremely simple design and operating principle
-Easy to implement on a wide range of applications
-Costs are generally reasonable
-Large delta T (change in temperature) for increased heat rejection
-Wide range of possible locations for mounting
Negatives:
-Performance is highly dependent on airflow.
-Airflow is highly dependent on coolant stack pressure differential, which increases from adding another heat exchanger (engine oil cooler) to the stack.
-With higher coolant stack pressure, flow through ALL UNITS is decreased.
-You can see a reduction in radiator performance from adding an oil cooler.
-When placed in front of other heat exchangers (radiator), hotter air is now reaching the radiator, reducing efficiency even further/
-Pinhole leaks from rocks are possible.
-Highly recommended to run a thermostat on the engine oil cooler to reach operating temperatures quicker, increasing costs.
-Very easy to over-cool the engine oil with an improperly setup system.
-Lines are typically long and increase pressure drop of the system.

Oil to Water (O2W) oil coolers:

https://static.wixstatic.com/media/b..._2304_s_2.webp

https://static.wixstatic.com/media/b..._1728_s_2.webp

These are the units generally found on OE applications where engine oil cooling is necessary. Utilizing the engine’s coolant to heat the oil quickly during initial start and to cool the oil when the engine oil reaches operating temperature, this system is quite ingenious and reduces cold start wear and hot running wear. However, it comes with its own pitfalls of course, just like nearly all designs, compromises are necessary. Typically they utilize a portion of the engine’s coolant flow which surrounds internal turbulated tubes, extremely similar in design to the O2A tubes, which the oil flows through. These can be constructed from stainless steel or aluminum. Through this interaction, engine oil temperature is reduced and coolant temperature is increased. Below are positives and negatives regarding this style of engine oil cooling.

Positives:
-Ability to be packaged in small spaces
-Ability to be packaged without any airflow consideration
-Heats up oil when beneficial and cools oil when beneficial automatically by design
-Does not require a thermostat
-Very low chance of leaking
-Great at regulating an adequate temperate for proper oil operation
-Does NOT add a unit to the cooling stack, thereby decreasing delta P for the cooling stack as compared to O2A
Negatives:
-These systems are generally more expensive as they are typically application specific.
-Inputting more heat into an already taxed coolant system can lead to overheating.
-Due to the lack of delta T, engine oil temperature will likely be higher than O2A counterparts unless airflow is an issue.
-Possibility to leak oil into the coolant system or coolant into the oil system. Extremely rare for this to happen though.

Conclusion:
We have witnessed *both styles* successfully used in nearly every motorsports venue. That being said, if ultimate oil cooling is required, an O2A is still recommended though typically much larger than what is commonplace in the aftermarket community and *behind* the radiator (see below photo). For those that drive their cars on a normal basis, off track, we would strongly urge you to look into O2W units as they offer a lot of positives geared towards daily driving. When airflow is hard to come by, we would also recommend looking into O2W as reducing airflow through the radiator can be very detrimental. Systems have to be looked at as a whole and not just single entities.
https://static.wixstatic.com/media/b...c50ed~mv2.webp

Regardless of which style you utilize, please keep in mind that temperatures below 100 degrees C are not recommended and can actually be detrimental to engine health in the long run.

As always, please let us know if you have any questions and we will do our best to answer.

Thanks,
Eric

Thanks Eric. People like you are a huge asset to a car community. Many props and lots of respect!

Thanks, I appreciate it. Thanks for asking me to write it!

I have one other cooling article regarding high performance vs. low profile fan performance. If there are any other good topics we should look into for blog/forum posts, I'm all ears as well :thumbsup: .

Thanks,
Eric

:thanks:

Every time I read in a forum that someone got an oil cooler and a low temp thermostat I want to smack them :slap:

I wish just this quote was stickied here in this forum somewhere. Hot is good!

Most of these cars are used for daily use and not track only duty, which is the scary thing to me.

:party0030: :cheers:

Thanks,
Eric

Yeh getting a nice oil cooler is great bling but for a DD it's not needed. I've been eying the Subaru O2W system that many on here have used with success. I'll track the car in the sping/summer months a few times a month. To me no need to get a fancy expensive cooler. Waste of time and $$

our main issue on 86\brz seems to be keeping suffient oil pressure at high rpm when oil is hot and its viscosity less.

While the modern synthetic oils are cabable of handling high temps like 290f, our issue seems to be keeping suffient oil pressure once oil temps get past 230f or so especially if your staying with 0w20 oils.

If you not seeing temps over say 220 then 0w20 seems the choice, if your going north of that like 230 then a W30 oil may be better suited, unless your going to keep the temps under controll with a better oil cooler

your thoughts @VeloxEric ?

I use the OEM Forester unit and am quite happy with it.

I wrote the article to encompass all vehicles and to be a good primer for any car/track car owner, not specifically for the FA20. I agree with a lot of your statements though for the FA20.

Thanks,
Eric

Did you use the throttle body method or the actual forester method (with the extra piping and such)?

I started another informative thread on low profile vs. high performance (profile) fans for those interested. Fans are often overlooked but quite crucial to DD performance. http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=114585

I used a modified Forester method. I accidentally had it hooked up backward and to my surprise, I had 2-3 degrees C hotter oil when it was hooked up backward. I'm sure as you started pushing the system (I only used it for a week that way, very early on in the build), the difference would reduce as the delta between oil and water increased.

I go into a little detail in the shop car build thread in this post on fluid flow: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...0&postcount=43

Basically, routing goes from right after the t-stat (coolest water, coming from the cool side of the radiator), and goes to the oil cooler. From the oil cooler, my routing goes through the turbo. From the turbo, water goes back to the heater hose which used to go to the TB. I capped a TB hose on the top of the engine and the TB no longer sees coolant.

Thanks,
Eric

As a guy who DD his car mostly, and probably hit the track 1-3 times every summer.

Would you say its necessary to get an oil cooler?

Or should i switch just to 30w for my track day? then switch back to oem standard after the track day is finished.

Thanks!

Personally, I think you're the perfect person for the OEM Forester, or similar, oil to water oil cooler. It heats the oil up for daily use (good thing), it cools the oil for track abuse (good thing).

I wouldn't even personally worry about changing your oil. If you keep oil temps under 230-240, I *believe* 20 weight is perfectly acceptable for an NA car. I'm pretty sure I've seen a few guys track above this for seasons without issues. And if you want the added security of a heavier weight, you have an oil heater which heats the oil up to operating temps faster!

Thanks,
Eric

Eric (and many others) know more about this than i do. But to be honest, dont buy an oil cooler till you need one. Next time you hit your AX/HPDE, monitor your oil temps to see if you are very high. As you progress or get faster you may require one. But, dont add one till you need one. If your HPDE keeps getting cut short due to heat soak and high oil temps, then you need an oil cooler. But I dont see the reason to buy one just cause you hit the track a couple of time. Its just another place to check for leaks anyway.

Plus the car wont really let you hurt it. It will start retarding things if the temps go too north of 300*F.

Thanks for the useful input,

Im not that type of hardcore track rat who stay on for 20-30 minutes per session, I usually do 1-2 warm up then 2 hot laps and 1 cool down lap. So i guess i wouldn't even need an oil cooler in my situation, considered the cost, installation labour and potential leaking issue after installed.

Except the oil pressure north of 240 is well out of manufacturer specification, that should realistically be the point you look at oil coolers. A novice can easily get there within a few laps on a stock fa20.

Im not confident that the ECU will save the engine if oil temps get to high.

Ecutek and Romraider guys have discovered tables in ECU that apply a timing reduction on intake air temperature IAT this is active in stock roms and could be adjusted by tuner.

there is also a table for ignition timing retard vs Coolant temperature , however this table is not used in stock rom/tune, but can be used by a tuner.

These are likely intended to reduce knock, rarther than save engine.

Their does not appear to be a "discovered" table that retards timing or reduces throttle input etc for oil temp. This does not mean it does not exist though.

I saw perrins blog where they hinted that high oil temps caused a loss of power but they did not appear to be monitoring coolant or intake air temps so ill take it with a grain of salt.

If you read this info by ecutek, see the section on custom maps. Ecutek are suggesting you can create a custom map using oil temp as an input and apply a torque reduction or timing reduction or completly knobble the throttle to say 30% max as oil temp increases.

http://www.ecutek.com.au/ecu-product...t86-scion-fr-s

This seems to suggest that their might be no facilty in the standard rom software that "saves" the engine in time for ecesssive oil temps.

Its certianly possible that the ecu could trip into "limp home mode" on severly excessive oil or coolant temps. But the damage may already have been done especially on modified engines or during track use.

Thier is also no oil pressure info sent to ecu on these cars, the idiot light for oil completly bypasses ecu from memory and just lights the dash light. Its just a switch and as long as oil pressure is above about 2 or 3 psi it stay off. It should be relabeled "replace engine" :-)

Stock their is no oil pressure sender only a oil temperature sender.

Ecutek guys also did some work on using an external oil pressure sender to feed info into the ecu and use a custom map to use oil pressure vs rpm to create a safety trip map if you get low oil pressure at eny rpm, ie less than whats in the custom map.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95989

This is where the problem is, hot oil looses viscosity even the race type oils (they loose less viscosity though), as temps rise pressure drops and at high rpm and loads damage can result from to low a pressure rather than the oil physically breaking down.

Like I said, you all know more about these cars than i do for sure. I get all my cars tuned, but i am not a code monkey, though i love reading all the information i find here. Steve99 you definitely have words of wisdom.

But, my posts intent was just to make all the information simple to the average driver. In other words dont over think it. You will know when an oil cooler is needed. I am about to pick up my 4th BRZ (no the other 3 didnt die because i refused to buy an oil cooler, quite the contrary) and the first thing going on it will likely be my JR radiator/oil cooler combo. In fact its sitting in a box on the floor waiting for my 17 BRZ to be delivered. I know i need an oil cooler.

I dont know what tables are in the ECU, and I can not claim to know anything about the process. But, what i do know with multiple BRZs i have tracked....is that the car will let you know the minute its not happy. Once i see oil temps around 315F give or take the car cuts revs. You will know it when it happens. And that means take a cool down lap or two and its time to go park. There are many factors with this, that track guys will likely have learned. As far as oil weight, and interval to change and so forth. Luckily this car is the easiest oil change in the world. My wife thinks it is still work, when i go out do it. But she doesnt know that changing oil on this car is something i find fun and relaxing. It gives me about an hour to myself in the garage. :D

But for a new-ish guy i was just trying to say dont think you can't go turn some laps without an oil cooler. That, the car will let you know if you need an oil cooler. That being said, because the BRZ runs such lite oil, and the oil temps can get high fast in stock form. Having some way to monitor oil is a great idea in this car if you plan on hitting anything longer than an AX.

So, again I am no expert. But, new guys dont get overwhelmed with the knowledge shared. Just take it in and keep it in mind. You will know when its time for an oil cooler, it literally is the first thing i would buy for my twin. But, if you are not on the track I dont think you would need one.

Dear god, please install an oil pressure gauge... for science! I want to know what pressure looks like near redline at 315 :confused0068:

I get scared of the pressure deficiency (about 20 below MFR specification) at 245F on thick leaning 5w-30 oil.

That actually would be good. I know i never saw it higher than 100psi, but to be honest i dont remember to well sincethis was a grind session at Eagles Canyon to see what the BRZ could do on the track....prior to any real mods.

Now i did have all motul fluids in the car, and i was running 5w-30. That being said, once temps got above 265F boy did 300F come damn fast. And I tried to go back out on the track an hour later, and found that i couldnt complete more than 2 laps in that session. So I called it a day.

Wish my memory of the day was better, but when i managed to look at psi i dont remember any less than 30 or more than right at a 100psi. But it was 4 years ago.

Anyway, I dont even touch a track without addressing oil now in any car of mine. But for you new track guys, please dont let that scare you from beginning your track journey. You will know when its time for more cooling, at that is all my butt was trying to say. Try tracking the car then, see if you need to add mods for cooling or braking or whatever.

Again, i just dont want anyone to not track becuase they dont have this or that. Track first, unless your damn gifted...oil temps should not be a big concern.

Great read, thanks Eric.

I'm planning on the Forester OEM cooler for mine since I do a lot of long windy roads, (think the kank cruise, driven hard,) a few local mountain passes that are fairly extensive, autox, occasional track day.

As peace of mind, it's a nice part. I see my oil pressure dipping a bit towards the end of these longer runs, which I'd like to negate.

Is it a plug and play part?

I have all the ingredients for the oem kit, but I failed myself by nearly stripping the block off bolt you use under the engine. And the throttle body route is out of the question.

I have a well modified FRS, but i plan to keep it NA for a while. Would an O2W cooler be beneficial in a NA setup? These cars heat up a lot, even stock, so i want to get one, but i'm worried about overcooling or incorrect cooling setup. I don't have numbers right now, but i do notice performance drop after driving the car for sometime.

"Chasing speed with patience"

I propose that this is an utter myth! Obviously, water evaporates at temperatures at all temperatures, not just when boiling (that's why e.g. streets dry up after it has been raining).

Next, living in the country (Germany) with probably the highest failure rate of FA20 engines I would strongly advise against running oil temperatures above 100-110 deg C (212-230 f) on a daily basis. The reason for that is simply that the oil degrades much faster due to thermal breakdown - at a rate twice as fast for every added 10 deg C (18 f).

Almost every single reported engine failure (non-modified NA engines) that we have here occurred because people drive their cars regularly above 200 km/h (125 mph) on speed unrestricted Autobahn while sticking to the factory specified oil change intervals of 15.000 km (9320 miles).

Funny enough, for comparison, not a single car that is being tracked here ever blew an engine - pretty much everyone that tracks their car regularly has an oil cooler installed.

Personally, I run a 9-row oil to air cooler with the prescribed 0W20 oil. I am perfectly happy with oil temperatures of 80-90 deg C (176-194 f) on the street and 105-115 C (221-239 f) on track, and I still change the oil twice as often as prescribed by Subaru.

Non-aggressive daily driving the engine stock, without an oil cooler, it runs between 90-95 deg (194-203 f).

From the empirical evidence that we have with the correlation between subjecting the engine (or rather the oil) to high temperature, sticking to prescribed oil change intervals and engine failure rates, I can only say that this part of your write-up is extremely bad advice and may lull people into the belief that "it is okay" to daily see oil temperatures way above 212 f, when in actual it's the perfect recipe for an engine failure.

I don't think you'll ever run into 'overcooling' problems with a O2W cooler. From what I've seen and having spoke with a couple of guys using them, oil temps will still get hotter than 240-250 during a 20 minute session on track. Still better than with no oil cooler at all.

With an A2O unit, even with a thermostatic switch, people have a hard time getting up to operating temps under normal use. It will keep the temps floating around or under 240 on a NA car during 20 minute session on track though.

What about stacking a forester O2W with a O2A? Then you mitigate against over cooling on the street, but have better cooling on track.
I've never seen anyone do this.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

mishimoto guys did it on wrx, appears to be enough clearance to do same on brz/86

http://engineering.mishimoto.com/cat...oler-kit-2015/

Looking at oil cooling options atm. There seems to be a lot of oil cooler threads on here so I figure I won't start a new thread lol.

Anyways, for those that run an oil cooler, how to do you do an oil change? Do you just accept that the change will retain about 600ml of the old stuff or is there actually a way to drain it? I'm surprised this isn't built into most oil coolers.

Second, without a thermostat, you could potentially do the easy solution of a drop in barrier to block the radiator and/or simply warm the car up before driving. Also what about a simple manual operated valve - this works because you know when you are gonig to be tracking or spirited driving for a prolonged period before you drive.

Third, what exactly is the mechanism in the thermostats for air based cooling?

All of this research is making me dizzy and if it weren't for the prospects of oil spills from a proven system, I'd have a jolly crack at DIYing my own solution.

Most accept the remaining 600 ml. There is 900 ml more old oil in the engine anyway as 5.4 liter oil is required for a normal oil change, but it takes 6.3 liter to dry fill the engine. So it's normal for some old oil to remain in the engine.

If you drive the car under conditions where an oil cooler is required, you may want to consider to change the oil twice as often as well. That will mitigate it somewhat.

I see no good reason not to run a thermostat. The cost of a thermostat is negligible. However, even with a thermostat, you might want to consider blocking off your oil cooler in certain situations.

The easy solution looks like this:
https://s14.postimg.org/wqmf5i2f5/IMG_6279.jpg

At low temperatures, the water cooler will have plenty of cooling even with 1/3 of the air intake blocked off.

Here is a log warming the engine up at 0 deg ambient (40 f) with the cooler blocked off:
https://s16.postimg.org/84lfko0ad/Sc...t_00_13_15.png

The vertical lines are 5, 7, 10 and 14 mins.

1) The oil cooler has no function without air flow, so it's very effective to block it off - just as effective as disconnecting it all together.

2) The car heats up just as fast as with no oil cooler installed.

Here is a log with doing a few pulls to 180 km/h (111 mph) on autobahn and then leaving the autobahn and driving normally on back roads:
https://s11.postimg.org/jrh7osdpf/Sc...t_00_18_28.png

Previously, I had the problem to get the temperature properly up when driving the car on autobahn at ambient temperatures of 5 c (40 f) or less. And that the temperature would drop quite a lot once getting off the gas. With "properly" and "drop a lot", I mean I would have temperatures of low 70's deg c (160 f).

Here you see the oil temperature remains fairly constant and that coolant temperature is unaffected. Obviosly, you would want to do your own readings to decide when it's appropriate to block off the cooler and that it doesn't have any adverse effects.

Here in lies the problem why you still need to block the cooler even with a thermostat installed:

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l6Z2q-ttyOA"]How does it work? - Mocal thermostatic sandwich plate - YouTube[/ame]

This is because of your supercharger kit using/blocking the throttle body area?

Are you trying to offload the parts? I only really need the heat exchanger and the longer bolt nut thing.

I could get to the throttle body, but it would be a lot of trouble. But yes, installing the Cosworth kit requires you block off the 2 TB locations.

Got it makes perfect sense. If you're trying to ditch those two parts, shoot me a message with what you're looking for, I'm happy to entertain the idea! :thumbsup:

This seems like the way to go. Anyone ever tried a setup like this?

Working on it. Eric knows all about these. :D

http://i.imgur.com/o7JitXf.png

I would think that bypassing at the sandwich plate would be better. Haven't had a look at the sandwich plate design to know if it's possible though.

Better or worse depends on the requirements. Mine is thermostatic control of oil temp to below 200 F in all conditions.

Please correct me if i am wrong, but i thought positive displacement pumps like the FA20 oil pump create flow, and what we see as pressure is the back pressure from the flow passing through restrictions. Also, hydrodynamic bearings in the engine need the right amount of oil flow and right amount of oil viscocity, right? So it follows naturally that at high temps (back)pressure will drop significantly due to a viscosity change, but volumetric flow will not. So as long as the flow and viscosity are within spec for the bearings why should we care about pressure? i have seen so many threads and posts freaking out about low pressures at only above average temperatures and then condemning the FA20 engine and its choice of 0W20. As long as my brand/formulation of 0W20 is stable at the temps that i see on my car, why should anything else matter?

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho....php?t=2714154

Lots of good info. on the thread above. With 5W20 as the viscosity drops with temperature (as the graph shows at 220F / 7.5 cSt) the oil pump seems to fall off the back end of its curve, losing pressure and flow rate due to slip.

This isn't my area of expertise but I'll do what I can to answer as much of it as I can.

It is a positive displacement pump and bearings do need the right amount of oil viscosity. At higher temperatures, flow will increase and pressure will decrease, correct.

Pressure is a measurement of the oil's viscosity, that is why we worry about pressure. I'm not sure what sensor measures viscosity, or if there is one, but our engines certainly do not have a viscosity sensor so what we have to work with is pressure. Pressure dropping is a sign of viscosity decreasing.

I completely agree that people over-exaggerate about oil temperature. If you are pushing your oil temperatures over 230-240 degrees, you are driving aggressively. The owners manual even states to run thicker oils as you drive more aggressively, and that is to ensure proper viscosity at these higher temperatures.

The NASIOC thread posted above, which I skimmed, seems to be a pretty thorough thread on oils. I started this thread to discuss different ways of cooling oil, which is what I would say I know more about than actual oil properties in the engine. Hope I helped answer some of your questions though.

Thanks,
Eric

any updates?