Getting boosted in a week...what to expect?
 

Hey Guys,

So i ordered my Edelbrock Kit with a Delicious tune which will be installed on the 10th. I'm beyond excited. I've never done modifications to this extent before so part of me is a bit nervous. Just a few questions.

What can i expect? As much as my mind is thinking crazy amount of power and torque everywhere...thats probably not realistic.

What are some supporting mods i should consider? (hood vents, boost gauge...etc.)

I want to keep this as reliable as possible and so any sort of supporting mods that would up the reliability would help.

For those of you on the Edelbrock kit...any major issues i should keep in mind or be aware about? Also what kind of power are you making reliably. I'll be on 91 Octane. Most likley no E85 as it's not in a convenient location for me.

Do you regret your decision at all?

Thanks in advance for the answers and help!

Oil cooler and catch can. I didnt think so but i was creating crack case pressure and creating oil leaks so... ya... oil cooler fixed the issue with timing being pulled when car heated up tomuch.

Clutch, the factory just wont last.

Exhaust that breaths helps the car rev faster.

Motor mounts and transmission mounts made it easier to disengage the clutch. Factory motor mounts and transmission mounts cause a nasty vibration.

Just get ready to spend 10k

Oil cooler if you track it or illegally drive as if you were tracking it. Not a necessity for a daily driver as much unless you do one pull after the other repeatedly.
Catch can also not a necessity unless tracking. It might collect a few drops of oil here and there.
Next oil change switch to thicker 5W30 for keeping viscosity at higher temps.
If you haven't already upgraded your tires now you will be thinking very seriously about it while spinning in 1st, 2nd and 3rd.
Xxyion, couldn't help but notice you list your colour as WRP. World Rally Poo?

I'm currently running the Edelbrock kit with a Delicious tune on an otherwise stock car.

No other modifications necessary if the car is driven normally, although I would try to adhere to a shorter OCI (oil change interval).

As far as oil coolers, I'm still waiting for a proven setup that is 100% compatible with the Edelbrock kit before I make the leap. Current oil temps are around 200-210F during my commute.

Oh i used the same 1 as all turbo subis use. Heats up oil quicker when cold and keeps the oil alittle lower as im spanking red light to red light.

Goto the subaru dealer and order all the same hoses and pipes as the factory forester xt uses. Looks like complete stock. Parts guide is on the forums.

5w30 oil is a must

You ordered the kit and now are asking what else you need?

http://www.skepticalob.com/wp-conten.../10/image9.jpg

1. Boost/AFR and Oil Pressure Gauge (If you want a third gauge get Oil Temp)
2. 5w30 oil
3. Catch Can
4. Motor/Trans/Diff Mounts (i went with STI mounts as it was stronger then stock but isn't as harsh as perrin or cusco)
5. Clutch (Depending on power levels)
6. Fuel Pump/Injectors (Again, depending on power levels)
7. Oil Cooler (Depending on how you drive)
8. Radiator/upgraded fans (Again, depending on how you drive)

IMO, the first 4 are a must to get you started for FI, and as far as i know, vented hoods isn't as necessary compared to if you went the turbo route, but will be beneficial for your driver and passenger coils regardless. (As demonstrated by Velox)

I agree with your list. Your better safe than sorry. Don't be cheap and blow you shit up like so.... many do on the forums.

Cusco mounts are rock hard, the engine/transmission has like no movement at all. The idle vibration was noticed after install like instantly. But with the Cusco mounts the car gives a sense of something has been done to the car feeling when someone sits in it for the first time. The turbo with this exhaust is very very stock sounding until I give it a decent amount of pedal.

Again whatever you path is, please don't take the cheap "well maybe next time route". Get a complete list together and do it correctly. Your better spending the extra $200 on an oil cooler than 3k on a short block.

Show me one Turbo Subaru that doesn't have atleast the oil cooler below installed from factory. You wait, you won't find one.! The link is below.

Forester XT Cooler
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50427

I don't recommend the 2 piece barb for the block. JEGS has a 1 piece that doesn't leak. I can provide the PN that I used if PM'd

Any EJ turbo engine, that isn't an STI.

Hahaha sorry I should have stated that I've already done most of my research. Everything listed so far seems to match up with what I've looked at. I do this though on the off chance someone mentions something critical that I overlooked during my many hours of forum browsing. Just my own fail safe.


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Hahaha. World Rally Pearl Blue. Is that not correct?




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Thanks a lot for the responses guys. The one thing I never thought of was the radiator. Will look into that.


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May as well look at the Jackson racing dual radiator and oil cooler

Unless you are a hardcore racer, radiator is fine. If you are driving in 85 degree weather every day and want to check oil temp and coolant temp, get an ELM 327 BT OBD2 dongle for $20 on Amazon, then download Torque on an Android device. There is an extra step to install oil temp plug-in.
I have monitored temps NA on a track and doing lots of pulls while FI both with and without an oil cooler.
With my setup I made the following observations:
-While NA on the time attack track, it took maybe 5 mins to reach dangerous temp. 125 C/230 F is where most 0W30 thins out.
-FI with oil cooler can go all day no oil temp issues
-FI without oil cooler gerts up to 120 C after several pulls on my drive home from work.
-Coolant has never gotten far above normal range ever.

Conclusion- Oil cooler definitely advisable, but not ESSENTIAL for daily driver. Upgraded radiator not needed. If your hot days are that bad, get a lower temp thermostat. Not Mishimoto, supposedly they are having breakage issues.Catch can highly variable. I collect a few drops every few thousand miles, literally.
Do use thicker oil especially if no oil cooler. I don't recommend the oil warmer/light cooler from Subaru EJ and FA20T engines. It is probably mostly there to heat up the oil quicker for the turbo. Not much cooling effect vs conventional air/liquid heat exchanger.

Awesome thanks man. Will invest in an oil cooler. This will be more a light daily driver main weekend car but not too much track time yet.


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Heat soak and IAT are increased without air ducting modifications.

@Xxyion - Neal advised against the Jackson radiator/oil cooler due to the way the lines are routed. The Perrin oil cooler works fine - that's what was on the car that got an Edelbrock when I was at the shop yesterday.

For iOS you can use DashCommand to monitor temps. It's $10 plus another $10 for the 86 specific PIDs. You'll need a wi-fi dongle instead of Bluetooth. Be careful with the OBD2 port - my cheap wi-fi dongle bent the pins after repeated use. I recommend getting an OBD2 extension cable and plugging the dongle into that. Can post some Amazon links for you later. Happy to demo the app for you at the shop or a local meet sometime.

I have one of the OEM liquid coolers. The highest I've seen it reach is 109C, it usually stays around 90C with normal driving. I have noticed it does not do exceptionally well at keeping peak temps down, but recovery/decrease times are much better than without it. The fact that you can get up to operating temp so quick is worth it's price tag alone imo.

Does the Edelbrock kit come with a map sensor? If not, you'll definitely need that.

Thanks so much man! Yeah I was already looking at the Perrin Oil Cooler as it was recommended to me from a few friends. I'll definetly have to check out that app you suggested. I'm curious if I can actually use my Dashlinq head unit and side load an android app and connect via Bluetooth. It would keep the interior a lot cleaner


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There are definitely some people using the Torque app on Android head units. Seems like a really clean setup.

Oil cooler w/ 0W20 will have MPG benefits on a daily driver, compared to xW30 without oil cooler.

A TMAP is included with the Edelbrock kit. It's unlikely that anyone will outgrow it :)

Your engine to blow up.


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2.5 bar Bosch.

it does, but it's utter rubbish that you need one if it didn't. It's not a turbo.... You can't overboost. In fact, why do you think the D-Box makes such a difference? You wouldn't have that issue with the OEM MAP sensor, nor a TMAP with the same range.

D-Box? Can't say I'm familiar with this 'd-box' you speak of. Boost amount can vary by atmospheric pressure and weather dictating density. Even with a set amount of boost per the pulley...I would not want to risk my ecu not being able to properly correct fueling/timing because I didn't want to spend 90 bucks on a MAP sensor.

Because of the TMAP's location.

Like this guy...realistic, common sense answers...

Almost everything fueling/timing on this car is done via the MAF. The MAP has some input, but a full range sensor is not critical in any way nor will it have massive impact on output. The only real benefit is to allow SD tuning. It'd be more crucial to have charge temps monitored than the pressure to account for the density changes you noted.

Anyone running a Spritex kit is running the OEM sensor. I've run my car for over 2 years boosted, including a run or 2 over the Pyrenees, all on the OEM MAP sensor. The E-Force suffers the same issue as the Sprintex, in that pressure pulses in the manifold cause sensor output oscillations and that negatively impacts output. If you run a smaller range sensor, it doesn't detect these and then you get more reliable output. The D-Box smooths out the oscillations to give the same result. ;)

Thanks. Nice 5 pce BTW.

Cool...Delicious has some cool shit (MK 1 upgrade to their FF kit) thanks for clearing that up. I brought it up because Delicious only tunes off of speed density. Maybe they tune off of MAF if you request it but to my understanding everything they do is SD...at least their F&G is.

buy a bus pass

My tune uses speed density tables with Ecutek. If you get a custom tune that is likely to be the case as well. My tuner had me upgrade to an Omni 2.5 Bar MAP sensor beforehand.