Built engine cost?
 

To all of you with built engines how much did it cost you when it was all said and done?

The specs of the build will make all the difference. Are you talking about just pistons and rods for boost or literally every aspect of the motor? The name of the companies on the parts replaced (and doing the blueprinting, polishing, assembly/honing, etc.) will also play a role in the cost.

Too many variables to list...

You can buy a stage 1 block from Full Blown for a little over 3K. I think Outfront Motorsports is about the same.

Say just rods and Pistons. I'm more curious as to labor costs. Part costs are easy to find out

I, too, would like to know this, but I suspect it would be quite a bit.

The going rate for just the shortblock (botom end), meaning starting and ending with the engine on a stand, is about $2000 plus or minus 2-300. That's just labor, not parts.

A reasonable shop that's selling the parts at cost and making everything on the labor is going to charge you $3100 +/- 100 to build the bottom end.

For a shop to do the full monty including pulling and reinstalling the engine, all accessories, clutch... It's a crap shoot. Ask your local shop. I don't know anyone in TX.

$7500 installed is my guess

Probably looking at around $100 an hour for somebody that will do it right.

It's something like 23 hours book time to do rods FYI

I got quoted $8K give or take for the full monty on the fa20

No way!! It's closer to $7400.

Or $9991.09 AUD

or $197,563 CAD

...

Up here, a subie specialist built an engine for a BRZ using the PTuning turbo with water-meth injection. The cost was 10.5k CAD parts and labor.

Actually we are a hair better than the Assuies at $9981.86

I'd go to Element Tuning for a time attack and standalone, for serious track work at high HP. MAP and Full Blown can do great for a drag car or street car with a EcuTek tune. A lot of Subie shops are great at the EJ, but the FA20 is different. Maybe some of them have good experience, but I'd ask to see what they've raced and what they've broken. They'd have to have solved everything from oiling to cooling to direct injection tuning. MAP and FullBlown are worth a call. Maybe Prime Motoring.

A fully built Element motor, without tuning, is $7400. Add oiling and cooling, and you're looking at at over another $1000. Then a high-end turbo kit for $6000+, exhaust for $1000 if you buy off the shelf, header for another grand, and finally tuning for cheap if you want an EcuTek, but you'd be an idiot to do that, so you want Motec or Hydra for another $2k at least, and maybe much more. Now you can work on your transmission, which will pop on your first hot lap at 500HP and 9000RPM. God knows how much that will cost. Meanwhile, you're still running on stock suspension, wheels, tires, and brakes. Time to get some aero too. You're now going so fast, you need a full cage and a seat and a HANS device and an extinguisher. Some netting would be a good idea too. Did I mention fueling upgrades? No, I don't think so. The list goes on, biatch.

We've built quite a few and the quotes range from 6000 up to 10,000 for fully built LONG blocks. Short blocks are easy to do, but to properly assemble a long block takes much more work and there is a lot to potentially mess up.

Generally most folks should get at least the following (brands chosen based on what we used, others are likely just fine):

GSC valve springs
Reimax oil pump gear
Manley or Carrillo rods
CP or JE pistons
ARP head studs

Those are the mid range in terms of price, and will easily hold 600 whp.

If you plan on 9,000 RPM the the carillo rods with CARR bolts are the way to go, above 600 whp we may put in the stronger wrist pins, and the standard ARPs may not be enough to hold 35+ psi long term.

Anything above this basic build list will jack up the price significantly, and you will likely be no longer using an OEM gearbox and not driving the car on the street. Hooking up over 500 whp on streetable tires is a challenge below 80 MPH.

Spinning to 9,000 is also not something we would recommend. Though you can put enough valve spring in there, cams that make power that high will make terrible power down low, and using rockers the chance of failure is exponentially higher once you go past 8,000 RPM. Can you do it? Sure, but for how long....

But price wise a lot of this depends on your motor starting off. If it is in good shape then just basic machining to deck the blocks and heads is all you need, along with a quick hone. If there is scoring or the cases are shot, then you can expect to add 500-1200 to the cost. If the heads are high mileage then it costs a bit more to change out all the guides and seals.

What's a good recommendation for aftermarket cams?

Could you expand on what you mean by "but to properly assemble a long block takes much more work and there is a lot to potentially mess up"?

$13,000 almost done

We don't recommend them unless you're going to go for north 8,000. We hope someone will prove us wrong here, but our experience has not been positive with cams or aftermarket intake manifolds. The 17 OEM is the best option IMO.

As long as you keep a short block clean, QC all the parts, and take your time--they are actually pretty easy to do. Not the first time, but once you've done a few it is very routine. Clean, inspect, assemble, disassemble and check clearances, file rings, then reassemble. Really straight forward. Doing a flat 4 long block involves many alignment pins, two timing chains, head/lash clearances, resealing what must be about a hundred yards of silicone, then the tally of the multiple o-rings, VVT filters, pesky rear main seals, making sure all machine work is 100%...it's a lot more work. There's a reason most shops don't do whole long blocks--its much more liability.

more than you can afford pal

...Ferrari?

Smoke Him

I'm using an aftermarket manifold and found that with the power doesn't drop as quickly when in the higher rev range. I'm probably after a 8600rpm limit.

I know HKS make cams, but apparently they are configured to work with the 2.1L stroker kit? (I want to stay in the 2.0 liter category(for motorsport classes))

Is there a difference between the price of an N/A build and a turbo build?

Easily 2-3x the price for equivalent or half the horsepower, from my experience anyway.

LOL. There's no reason to build an NA engine unless there are specific rules about it in your class. Otherwise, an engine built for a turbo will perform way better with a turbo on.

Definitely, but there are people like me that prefer N/A over turbos. If cash was no object, I'd do a build like celek's and rev the piss out of it all day.

If money was no object and you wanted NA....

http://www.junauto.co.jp/sale/jun-sy.../index.en.html

I really don't see a reason to prefer NA to turbo. Turbo has great torque across the rev band. What's not to love? Only reason to prefer NA is that it's harder to get into legal trouble.

mmm!! Only $70k!

For track/competion:

Throttle response, less heat issues to solve, less blown transmissions, less consumable costs, less worry, less wear on engine components.

That's more an argument for less power. Also, you don't need to build an NA engine to get it to work well at the track. Some bolt ons and that's it.

YES a LOT!

Technically its about 4 times And I have seen 4CYL insane build make upwards of 400 NA but not streetable

Maybe that person wants to make a point that a real engineer can build an engine to make power vs booger welding a turbo on the car
#Triggered

Apparently you know nothing of engine building and TQ

Cool story, Tom Celek.

$30,000