Rear camber crazy from .75" drop
 

Installed trd lowering springs and dropped car off to be aligned. Got call back saying rear camber is at -2.5 and -.9. Tech saying he cant adjust rear in the green. Saying something about "slotting" something as an adjustable arm isnt possible. I apologize. I know solid axles in 4x4s. Not to familiar with these independent setups. I have no idea what to do. Whats my cheapest option?


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I read over and over that the 1" drop coils. Trd eibach or any others you dont need to buy anything to adjust camber as its not big enough of a change in height to warrant extra parts. I soecifically bought these coils so i wouldnt have to mess with adjustable alignment stuff. Uhg


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<1" "not warrant extra parts", as in miscellaneous roll center adjustment kits, diff riser, expensive coilovers and so on. But as car naturally gains negative camber, when lowered, basic camberbolts for front/rear LCA won't hurt to get right & better camber. I don't get though why difference is THAT big left to right in rear. Maybe some installation error, when installing those lowering spings? Car hasn't been in crash?
Bolts/LCA usually are still within reasonable budget (cheapest probably ~$250-300 new with spc bolts front, reusing oem crash bolts & SPC LCA), unlike what's needed if going for unreasonable drop, where spendings will be more then tenfold of that, at lest if you want for car to still handle well and be comfortable enough.

Rear camber crazy from .75" drop
 

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No installtion error. Everything fit back smooth and simply.

No accident.

Just recently did new wheels and tires and installed lowering spring.


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Are you the original owner?
Just because there isn't a recorded accident doesn't mean it was never slid into a curb or something.

1) are you 100% sure your springs properly installed?
2) are you 100% sure there's no accidents or bent suspension components on the car?
3) cheapest option is to slot rear lower control arm. next cheapest is SPC rear lower control arm.

-alex

I am 100$ sure the springs were properly installed. I went step by step and everything installed easily. Springs are seated properly tophats as snug as can be. Bottom bolts are tight.

Theres no recorded accidents but a good ding on running board from previous. Possibly could have hit curb and bent strut


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Rear camber crazy from .75" drop
 

I hit about 5 million speed bumps driving into my complex and it doesnt make any clunks. But i do hear an odd clunk driving in random situations. Think im just hearing things. I dunno. Next time im leaving it stock. Lol


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One thing that did sorta get me was when i removed two rear struts. I had to put then inside and walk to the store to buy some go through wrenches. I mixed up left and right side struts. I searched online for an hour and looked hard at both. I saw no Left or right markings. Visually they looked the same. So i assumed they were the same for left or right. As top hat can be placed at whatever angle.


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Never mind. Phoned toyota. Asked them to search rear shock absorber. Theyre both the same for either side. No difference in part number


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Same part number != correct, without any possible mistakes, installment. difference of almost two deg of camber per side .. my only versions are some error installing (springs on shocks, or whole shock assembly), or that such difference was already there (from some crash in past? But then again shouldn't such difference in alignment per side be detectable by "butt dyno" by abnormalities in car handling/stability? I somewhat doubt that servicemen that did installing & alignment took for test ride or dropped car from lift and bent during time car was left at shop) as lowering springs should affect toe/camber at similar pace on both sides.

Yah i dont know. Im confused. Car drives great. Always has. Still does.


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Rear camber crazy from .75" drop
 

But the shock assembly is simple. Open end of coil on bottom of shock. In its proper seat within 10mm. Closed end on top. Bolted up and done. Its as simple as rotating tires. So i take it as an insult questioning if the install was done correctly.


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I would get a second opinion on the install itself, as well as the alignment.

If all else fails here are some adjustable rear lcas for a decent price.....http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=112652

Stance LCA will lower his rear more.

True, but would make his camber adjustable and he seems to be on a budget.

Whiteline or spl would be cheaper anyways, lol.

I did overlook this step last night. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...5bf37ed7fe.png

Does the pic work? Ill have to get under there when its dry out and see wich ends are pointing which way


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That is probably your issue. One spring isn't situated correctly.

https://youtu.be/oJw-ZzLmfho

3:06 or so...

We shall see. I guess that will be my issue if so!!


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Yeah watched every video on youtube before i did the install.

Did you see my photo. Says one end needs to point to rear other to front. Which he doesnt mention. Nor does any other installer. The springs are seated properly in their perches. I just will have to see if the ends are pointing in the correct direction


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When I installed TRD springs, the post-alignment rear camber wasn't even. The important part is to get your toe zeroed out. A degree of camber is sub-optimal, but it won't destabilize the car or burn through tires.

IIRC, we ended up with 2.1 & 1.0 degrees. It has felt great for daily driving and autocross this season.

If you need it even, SPC is the cheapest lower control arm option. It's hard to justify other LCA's unless you're dropping much lower (or you just like car jewelry).

Rear camber crazy from .75" drop
 

Yah toe is great. Its just rear right camber thats in the red. I dunno man it looks really weird. One tire is tucked into sidewall and the other pokes out quite a bit. Im assuming the direction the coil end is pointing is off. If its not the coils and its installed correctly.

What about lca bushings? Dont they allow for +\- .5 degree? Would let me get one side to -1.5 and -2.0. Much closer.


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I also think theres a little clunk on rear corner that is -2.5. Im going to re install the rears making sure ends are pointed in proper direction. Then pay for another alignment


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You'll pay with the bushings in labor...

Did you have similar difference in the tires before the springs? If not, something seems to have changed somehow with the install. I am unsure what it might be since there really is very little wiggle room on the rear install. I suspect the camber has always been off.

Rear camber crazy from .75" drop
 

Not that i noticed. Looked fine before!! And how will i payvwith bushings jn labour? I dont want new lca as i dont want to be any lower in rear!!


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Bushings have to be burned or pressed out for replacement. So there is labor costs.

Only certain rear lcas lower you.

Assuming you refer to the whiteline bushings that allow camber adjustment in the rear... They're a pain to work with. That eats time, which costs (either good will if its a fixed rate alignment or in hourly rate).

Rear LCA won't make you lower unless you go with a lowering LCA like the Stance. Whiteline won't, and is among the lower cost options.

There really is no room for geometry change in the back beyond bushing compliance. That's a possibility, you mention noise IIRC. Verify full range of motion without binding without the shock, and be sure it installs easily as a place to start checking.

What aboutthis step. I dont get it. Attachment 145581

Level with what!?!


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Is that essentially. Leaving the bolts loose and putting tires on. Putting car on ground and then fonishing torquing bolts. I assum thats what leveling the arm is mimicing


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Level means level... Not sure what you don't understand. Perpendicular to gravitational pull. Its an absolute measurement. The car should be raised so its level as well, as best you can.

Not necessarily. A level driveshaft (not arm!) may not be the same as static rest position, and with tires on you need to roll the car or it won't settle right/evenly.

I googled your location. Looks like there are several speed shops around that could help.

Yah i noticed it was friveshaft and not arm. Re did rears today. With proper spring placement. Seems to be a little better


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Not really? There are two tuner style shops. One claims u dont need to tune an frs after installing headers exhiast and intake. Even if youre throwing cel and idling weird. The other doesnt do chassis. Theres one good alignment shop in the whole province. Ill be going there this week


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Idk, but you probably need some eyes on help at this point and just get someone to fix it. Good luck.

I highly doubt there's only one good alignment shop in all of BC... I'd suggest talking to some local racers to see where they go.

Only one i know of. I phoned best tuner shop in bc yesterday and he said same thing


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Pretty much i guess to be straighforqard i seek the cheapest way to 1 degree of variance in rear and 1.5 degree upfromt. Whitelines for front, put bottom bolt up top? Im only 3.6mm closer to suspension than stock setup with my tire and rim now. Will i need something to not hit suspension?

And spc lrcs is cheapest route for atleast 1 defgree in the rear?


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I'm just going to quote myself here for you to review.

If you want cheap, the options are listed here.

-alex