Front camber? Noob
 

I understand the physics of adjusting front camber negatively to increase turn in response and reduce understeer. Which is something im definitley interested in. Plus id like my front tires to be tucked in a bit.

Hopefully this can be answered simply.

17x8.25. 245/40. Trd 1"drop coils.

Daily, tracked, and aggresive canyon backroad driven.

I dont want anything extreme. I plan on leaving rear alone.

Just how much neg camber should i ask alignment tech to adjust to. And do i need to buy bolts? Like whitelines? Or can it be done with stock components.

Ive been told -3 is the sweet spot. Is that possible with just stock. Of do i need like whiteline bolts. They say only 1.5 degree of +\-

Thanks again everyone who helps out!!


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There is no camber adjustment stock, you must buy parts to get it.

-3 will accelerate wear on the inner shoulder if the car is driven daily.
Depending on the purpose a more modest angle will likely be adequate.

There's a couple very informative threads out there about the details.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25001
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=103609

Thanks!


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Yes you'll need camber bolts. Or even camber plates if you want -3. I'd suggest to keep it around -1.5 to -2 at most for a car that you'll be driving daily. Bolts will usually yield -1 degrees... -1.5 if you're lucky. You can try doubling up (one in bottom of strut and one on top) on camber bolts to get more. To reduce excessive wear, have 0 toe.

I have -2.7 on my fronts, slotted struts, daily driven with no problems or no additional wear that I can discern - maybe when it gets close to no tread I can see it, but doubt it will be a big deal. As other have said, you won't get anywhere near -3 with a single set of camber bolts - might get there with upper and lower cam bolts.

-3.5 f
-2.5 r
zero toe front
slight toe in rear
i have been this way for about a year and a half / some auto x and daily even through winter
i havent noticed too much "uneven" tire wear.. on my RE760

I didnt realize so much was needed to go to -3. Is there even a point to getting whitelines? I didnt want to spend hundreds on camber. I dont want crazy stance or anything. So i figured -1.5 would be good? No? I need to buy a bunch of aftermarket adjustable stuff to even get into the -2s?

Ive read about people getting their oem bolt to go to -1.6!?! Then im told it is not adjustable


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Norinradd: just get two camberbolt sets for both upper & lower strut holes (eg. Whiteline KCA416 for top, SPC 81305 for lower). Should net you -2.1 to -2.5 camber front (or more, if lowered). Bolts are cheap, two sets won't bankrupt anyone, but if you need to save over that, get SPC only, and for top reuse OEM 14mm crash bolts relocating them from lower hole to upper. One still needs adjustable LCAs for rear though. SPC LCA cost more then those front bolts, but imho affordable enough.

@Norinradd well I have dialed in those camber numbers in the front using the camber plates that came with the coilovers.
and for the rear those were "natural" camber resulted from the lowering of the car in the back with coilovers.
I should get LCA in the rear and dial the camber back to -0.5 ish in the back and dial back the fronts too and see how my contact patch plays out..right now with my driving style i dont think i am using the full width of my 255's

Do this OP, if you want more, any camber plate will get you the rest of the way for $400-$600, or it will come with a set of coilovers you decide to purchase.

It's not any more complicated than that.

If you're confused about 'camber adjustment on OEM bolts' re-read the threads I linked, you must have skipped a few paragraphs or not watched Dezoris' video.

Depending on the offset on your wheels, you might need camber plates to get near -2*. I've got -2.3* front with camber bolts and slotted struts on 17x8 +45 and 225/45/17's, and have barely any clearance between tire and spring perch.

Hm im +35


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You're 10mm further out than I am, but also have 20mm more tire so you'll have roughly the same clearance I have.

So may i ask how the fuck my rear drivers tire is at -2.5 after the lowering springs. One rear is -2.5. The other is -.9. That seems like somethings is really messed up?!?! No!?


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I dunno what i need to buy for the rear now. I thought with 1" drop i wouldnt need to adjust rear camber. Wtfffuhg


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Just get rear LCA, which stands for lower control arm. SPC (same as whiteline & eibach) should be cheapest.

Google is your friend. I suggest you do a little research on double wishbone suspensions.

Hah yes i know what lca stands for.

Once again. As i said. I read you didnt need to buy anything for such a small drop. I dont want to spend 800$ on lcas. That is ridiculous.

Why is the camber -2.5 on one side and -.9 on the other?

That makes no sense to me. Is it the springs settling?


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Front camber? Noob
 

I have. Google didnt answer my question. Do you have an answer? As to why camber is -2.5 one side and -.9 other side.


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Not yet.

Did you measure the camber before you lowered it?

FWIW, I run -2.5 up front, and -2.0 at the rear, and have yet to notice any uneven wear on my Michelin Pilot Super Sports.

No i dont know how to do that. Just visually it looked okay. But the drop may have excentuated it. Alignment tech says most probably answer is the strut is bent


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Did this alignment tech ever look underneath the car before taking those measurements?

Again, google up on double wishbone suspensions. If you find a picture you'd like to discuss, post it up here. Let's start with the absence of a "strut" on the diagram. Shock, yes, but if your guy blamed the asymmetry on a bent shock, you need a new guy.

Did he not show you what was going on down there? Next time you have a chance to look, ask. Most guys will be happy to give you a brief rundown. I know I would.

Front camber? Noob
 

I already know whats going on? Everything looks good underneath. He looked on the hoist aswell. I installed the springs, i was underneath yesterday. I understand camber. He said bent strut.

Now, What i dont undrstand is whats causing the 1.5 degree variance in camber. It could be a bend barely visable to naked eye in a handful of components. I was just hoping this had happend to someone.


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And what diagram are you talking about?


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Although i did read over this step. Upon re reading instructions. I dont understand the "75-85 degree" business. Im gonna have to check if the coils are pointing the correct way. Might have overlooked that!!

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...43a4d12266.png



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Any old diagram illustrating the components of a double wishbone suspension. I'm trying to help you understand with clarity the reason your shocks have absolutely nothing to do with your rear wheel alignment.

When i say shock i nean the entire strut assembly.

Are you saying the whole strut and spring have nothing to do with alignment? As they most certainly do.


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Front camber? Noob
 

One look at the suspension and i understand how it all works. What does what. I just havent learned. Names yet. A control arm on a jeep is compleltey different looking than a control arm on the frs. Lol


But you are trying to tell me the strut assembly has nothing to do with camber?

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All they do is set the resting position of the 4-bar linkage. The geometry of the linkage determines the camber function. It is not static.

I asked you to come up with a picture you would like to discuss partly so you would have the opportunity to start from a place of familiarity, partly to get you to invest a little in the discussion.

It seems like you're more interested in not being insulted than you are in learning.

Lowering of the spring causes a change in the overall geometry though? No!? It must.

And i dont understand how looking at a photo together would help? I dont know what you want me to ask? Haha.


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Front camber? Noob
 

Lowering of the spring causes a change in the overall geometry though? No!? It must.

And i dont understand how looking at a photo together would help? I dont know what you want me to ask? Haha. Not trying to be rude!

I just want to know what can be done and why my rear camber is out by 1.5 degree. Most likely after installing lowering springs. But Just may have excentuated it with the new wider wheels tires and springs.

Im going to re install the rears tomorrow and pay for another alignment. As there is also a clunk in the rear that is -2.5

Wasting your time with this one Ultra. He will change his story and reference his "jeep with the one ton suspension" a thousand times. Then when he finally gets it he we say he knew that all along and call us all jerks that don't know anything. Save you help for somebody that appreciates it.

Front camber? Noob
 

Thanks tcoat. The trolliest troll in thr trollverse. Keep it in your pants


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Your welcome. Not trolling at all and my statement is supported by documented facts throughout several threads. If you want hep don't argue with every single person that says something. Ultra is trying to help you LEARN what is required not simply spoon feed you. You claim to know but then have no grasp of even the basics. Just try listening to them and not resist everything they say.

Front camber? Noob
 

So explain to me how a lowering spring doesnt change geometry of suspension? Then explain how a posting a photo of a rear end will help me learn? Help me learn what? Terminology? Cant figure that out by reading the diagram myself.

I dont own any aligment tools. So i dont understand how learning how to do an alignment will help atm.

All i want is opinions on what to look at. Be it new parts or existing. Not treated like someone who doesnt know how to turn a wrench.

95% of my posts are positive interactions. Like why did u even need to come in here just to shit on me? Once again. For like the 15th time. Cant you just leave me alone unless you have something productive to say? Geez man. Youre going to make me create a new account


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95% of my posts are positive interactions. Like why did u even need to come in here just to shit on me? Once again. For like the 15th time. Cant you just leave me alone unless you have something productive or positive to say? Geez man. Youre going to make me create a new account


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What's your new user name bro?

majority of the time on a tech forum an op is stressed out and in a bind about something that theyre stuck on. Coming on here just to be a nag and try to give attitude adjustments is ridiculous. Not the place man. Straight answers. Opinions. Ppl Dont need to be policed and put down.

I think in the 50 times uve came into one of MY threads and posted. Maybe twice its been helpful. The other 48 have been extremely negative and sour. like you hope to get a rowled response. The definition of a troll.

Ive even asked you.
More than once to stop posting in my threads. Yet you cant help yourself


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