Full-Race Motorsports Turbo Kit Owners Thread and FAQ
 

We want to shed some light on the Full-Race turbo kit and allow the owners and potential owners to discuss the kit in more depth. We are dealers for the turbo kit, have owned the turbo kit, and can help with answering questions, concerns, and packages. We are not only located close to Full-Race but also work closely with them.

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About Full-Race:
Full-Race, over the course of the past 14 years, has established themselves as a leader in the turbocharging industry and set the standard time and time again. They have some of the best quality turbo manifolds in the aftermarket used in all forms of racing, be it drift, road course, time attack, or drag.

Link to the 7163 specific kit: Here

Website: http://www.full-race.com/

We personally decided to go with this kit for their reputation, their quality, the completeness of their kit, and Borg Warner's EFR turbo technology used in the kit.

Standard Kit Includes:
-Turbo Manifold
-3” Downpipe
-3” Over-pipe
-3” Front-pipe
-Charge Air Cooler
-All Charge air piping/clamping/couplers
-All coolant and oil lines
-Belt/Pulley Heat Shield
-Crash beam w/ Setrab OC mounting
-Slim Fan

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Options:
-3” Aluminum cold air intake
-3” dual exit exhaust
-Ceramic coating
-Turbosmart twin port IWG
-4 port solenoid

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Borg Warner
EFR (Engineered For Racing) turbos are specifically designed for competitive racing. The turbos are all inclusive in most forms, including a BOV, an internal waste gate, an actuator, and a boost solenoid! The Gamma-Ti turbine wheels are the pinnacle of turbo technology, which offers unparalleled transient response and spool characteristics. We personally chose the 7163 for our kit, though the other offerings are great choices as well.

7163: Utilizing the latest generation compressors combined with state of the art 'Mixed-Flow Gamma-Ti Turbine Wheel' design allows for remarkable spool and huge powerbands. This unique turbocharger is an off-the-shelf Indycar turbocharger, used by all 2014-present IRL teams. Packed with the latest technology, we knew we had to go with this specific turbo. It also matches very well with the FA20, offering great power potential and spool characteristics. It can provide high 200whp safely on pump and much more on E85.

Features:
-Mixed Flow Gamma-Ti turbine wheel
-Forged milled extended tip compressor wheel
-Military-grade dual ceramic ball bearing assembly with silver plated metal cage
-Stainless steel turbine housing
-Water cooled light-weight Aluminum bearing housing
-Large internal wastegate
-Compressor re-circulation valve (BPV/BOV)
-Boost control solenoid valve
-14.6 lbs including all accessories

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Full-Race Oil Cooler Kit:
https://www.full-race.com/wp-content...er-Final-2.jpg

Mocal Oil Cooler Core and T-Stat sandwhich plate
Bolts to crash beam
SS braided lines

FAQ:

Will add to this as they are asked throughout the thread.

Thanks,
Eric

Dyno Graphs:
We will continually update this with dynos that are posted. Please include fuel, dyno used, turbo, and any other pertinent information. Comparison dyno sheets to OEM-ish setups are appreciated.

Link to 7163 Twin Scroll T4 Kit: http://www.velox-motorsports.com/pro...d-d7878eb5adfb

We'll start with the Velox shop car:
http://imgur.com/cZsvQjs.jpg
E80 @ 13.5-14 PSI
MAHA dyno
7163 Twin Scroll T4 0.80 AR
Stock long block
Car made 270ish whp on 91 at 10psi

Comparison with OEM graph, no boost:
http://imgur.com/4leNP1Y.jpg
________________

Joey Kim
http://imgur.com/wx5zCpR.jpg
Mustang Dyno
7163 Twin Scroll T4 0.80 AR
Stock Long Block
E85, 14psi tapering to 10psi at redline, actuator will fix this
________________

DDPerformance LLC: http://www.ddperformanceresearch.com/
Another Full-Race Turbo Kit Distributor for you Texas guys
http://imgur.com/0HmuTGk.jpg
6758 Twin Scroll T4
Built Engine
E85, 27PSI by 3500RPM, 4-port solenoid with twin port IWG.

Joey Kim @Joeyk 7163 Twin Scroll build pictures and dyno below.

http://i.imgur.com/wx5zCpR.jpg

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SETRAB Oil Cooler Mounting, since has been redesigned by Full-Race to sit upright

Thanks,
Eric

I'm loving this kit. Thanks for the thread!

It's ok ...

I can't wait to get mine.
@Joeyk can you give us some insight on your oil cooler setup? I'm guessing that someone does not sell a kit with everything precut the correct lengths.

I'm leaning towards doing this myself, so if there are any suggestions or "lessons learned" from installs, I'd love to hear them!

@djwishbone

I have the 19 row setrab cooler. With mocal sandwich plate.
You can run a smaller cooler or larger if you want. Just make sure the bolt holes line up. Or re-drill your own holes.

Custom length lines with AN fittings.

I'm also running a custom radiator shroud since the stock one was too close to the manifold to my liking.

Yeah I plan on running the Velox radiator to save space. Did you make the shroud yourself?

Origin Fabrication in Cumming, GA made the custom shroud.

Just discussed the oil cooler situation with Geoff from Full-Race and we will be working on an oil cooler kit that can be purchased with (or without) the kit in the coming months. Both him and I have a lot to do for SEMA but once that rush is over, we should be able to have a kit available.

Thanks,
Eric

Great news!!

Got a few short videos uploaded on youtube, they are listed below.

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5hlnl1r1GDI"]ID1300s idling on Velox Motorsports EFR7163 BRZ - YouTube[/ame]
ID1300s at idle. They are like 4 little hammers.

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JZQGe-XvfL0"]7163 Full Race Turbo Kit Pulls at 13.5psi - YouTube[/ame]
Few pulls on E75 @ 13.5PSI before I'm forced to go back to E50. Arizona passed a law that reduced E85 gas stations to E50.

I'll have a few more videos up soon, let me know if I can grab something specific and I'll work on obtaining it. The video I'm working on now has the dyno pull and a trip down the 1/2 mile recorded in it.

Thanks,
Eric

Glad to see this up here finally!
This will be the kit I get if I don't end up going to a GT350R :bonk:

With what turbo would there a way to get a bit earlier spool? I may be looking at grabbing one of these. Right now my goal is 300 (easy).

6758 EFR would spool earlier by about 500rpms

Do you sell separate parts of the turbo kit ? I only need intercooler & crash beam.

What @ATL BRZ said. You have two options for turbos smaller than the 7163, both offer slightly quicker spool with less power potential but both will hit 300whp on E85 without an issue on a stock block. The 6758 and the 6258 would be the EFR turbos you'd want to look at, with the 6758 being the unit I'd personally suggest if you don't want the 7163.

I'll ask Full-Race and get back with you.

_______

Last weekend we tested out the turbo kit with some 1/2 mile racing. Had some fun, didn't blow the car up, ran a 137MPH, turbo kit did great. Can't complain! Below are some pictures. Ran a total of 10 times by noon, ranging from 134 to 137 trap speed.

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Going through some of the data logs I took during the event and check out the intake air temp! This charge air cooler is performing very very well given ambient *air* temp was 97 deg. F (36 deg. C). That temperature reading is at 130+MPH after 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th, and going into 6th gear at 13.5 PSI.

http://imgur.com/BzNy5Os.jpg

I'll be working on a video with some footage of the 1/2 mile event and the dyno day.

Thanks,
Eric

I received confirmation today, they are willing to sell the charge air cooler and crash beam combo. I am waiting on pricing from them and then I will PM you.

Thanks,
Eric

know of any way of making the washer tank still work?

If you don't use the "cold air" intake and are willing to use an open element in the engine bay you can leave it in. Otherwise you will have to get a smaller one. I think there's a company that makes one but not sure if it fits with this kit. I'll be looking into this as well.

^PTuning.

This is not just aimed at this particular kit (which looks like a very well built example) but why do almost all manufacturers place the turbo towards where the washer bottle and standard air box would be? You can still make an equal length manifold and position the turbo on towards the passenger side of the engine bay. Obviously you would be limited due to leaving enough room for the dump pipe.

Does anyone have a good reason for this? Or is there someone that makes a twin scroll equal length manifold that places the turbo more towards the passenger side? I've been looking for one for quite some time

Planning on getting this kit too, just waiting on the oil cooler option.

Is the 6758 the fastest spooling option?

If I were to guess it would have to do with piping complexity and exhaust routing. There are a lot of kits and keeping costs down during R&D must be a priority. The exhaust already runs down the passenger side so it makes the most sense to have it pointing that way.

The exception would be people like full blown or avo turbo. FB places it to the rear top so they can build a proper intake on the passenger side but they have a lot of intake piping and exhaust routing to deal with. On paper it should have less response and potentially build pressure slower, but overall I really like their kit.

Avo mounts the turbo under the engine. I like this design the most since it places the turbo so close to the exhaust. It also allows the use of the stock airbox which is ideal for "cold air". I didn't care for their turbo choice, IC, or longer path to intake.

I went with FR because of the EFR turbo, local support and optimized pathing for the best possible response. Look at the dyno, this thing spools so damn quick. However, I've never liked the intake path provided by this particular design. You can leave it in the engine bay and suck in hot air or take your bumper off every time you need to inspect or clean your air filter. It's all a trade off.

You can see that the turbine is fully divided and has a port for each volute in the below photo. This divide is kept all the way to the flapper door, just like running twin external wastegates except it's all kept internal and dumps back into the exhaust stream just after the turbine. It's a very well designed turbine housing.

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There is no issue with the BPV being where it is located. It is honestly one of the most effective BPVs I've witnessed first hand. I haven't heard any surge which means it is doing a great job at venting any excess pressure in the pressurized intake tract.

I see no reason to run another BOV unless you want more noise.

Thanks,
Eric

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So it begins...

I finished my short video of the Full-Race kit build, dyno, and 1/2 mile run. I apologize in advance for the lack of creativity and flare... very much an engineer and not a videographer. Someday... someday...

Anyway, I hope you enjoy . I like watching the wastegate actuator articulate, haven't seen that in many other videos.
https://youtu.be/m1zWSUOVM8Q

Thanks,
Eric

Has anyone had any overheating issues with it being a front mount turbo kit? Does anyone make an oil pan with a prewelded oil drain fitting (would the full blown oil pan work)?

The issue with the FB oil pan is the size. No one has verified that FR header will fit over it. It was designed for their headers. Blitz makes an oil pan with a return line welded and it looks like in this right place but no one has verified that. The oil lines are setup specifically for you to weld an AN fitting to your pan. So there are options but YMMV. Lots of people run front mount turbos with no real issues. Your AC can suffer in extreme climates and an oil cooler is recommended for extreme use (heavy track).

That makes sense. I've been researching this kit and I really like what it has to offer. I'm just not a fan of having to weld a fitting on/cutting into the radiator support. I would definitely get an oil cooler when I go forced induction.

I agree. The cutting isn't optimal. There are some solutions out there that don't require that but I still feel this kit has some of the best tech and response around. Lots of options out there though!

Sorry for all the questions, I appreciate the help though. Is there any performance gain or engineering reason for the intercooler piping to come out the top forcing you to cut the support beam as opposed to an intercooler like the ptuning one or a universal mishimoto? Just curious haha. The twin scroll turbo is my favorite part about this kit and I'm having trouble justifying any other kit besides ptuning.

I have no had any issues overheating currently with the kit even in stop and go traffic with 120 degree ambient Phoenix heat. No issues at the 1/2 mile event I've been at either. We run our radiator and hood louvers though, but I'm sure other radiators could work as well.

I (Velox Motorsports) offer to weld the fitting on if you send me the oil pan. The radiator support needs very little trimming which can quickly be done with sheet metal shears. It really is not bad and ensures the charge piping doesn't bang on the support.

The intercooler piping is designed to be as short as possible. This helps response and power. Reducing the number of bends reduces pumping losses and less area to fill with pressure, increases response. Again, when you actually get in there and take the tiny bit of the support out that you do, you'll see how it's not a big deal at all :).

Thanks,
Eric

I'm so pumped to get this kit. Should be putting an order through within a few weeks. Finally decided on going with the 7163 .80.
I love these new Borgwarner turbos. Truly next level tech.

Wow, great information. I appreciate the help, you answered all of my questions!! :w00t:

They really are the next level technology in turbos. They're used on the vast majority of OEMs and strictly race vehicles for a reason :).

You're very welcome, let me know if you have any other questions.

Thanks,
Eric

does the fp fit both auto and manual trans

I don't see why it wouldn't. There's quite a bit of space between op/fp and the manual trans. To my knowledge this kit hasn't been installed on auto, yet :).

oh ok thats good, some people say that 3" fp's wont clear that auto

@Joeyk Did you route both of your coolant lines up? It looks like FR shows pictures of it routing down under the turbo towards the radiator side, but it looks like it would be dangerously close to the exhaust manifold. I'm guessing that's why you routed yours over the top of the turbo? Also, did you use any special tools to tighten the turbo bolts? I'm not sure exactly how to get to those back ones to properly torque them down.