What am I missing about getting a flush look
 

I've been on the wheel directory for idk how many hours looking at different setups. At first I was set on getting work kiwami wheels 18x9.5 +38 and st coilovers to drop the car about an inch but now I'm worried about there bring too much poke and i dont want the wheels all cambered out and looking broken. I pick 18x9.5 because I like the deep concave look. I would want to do 18x8.5 in the front but I feel semi concave wheels up front and deep concave wheels in back may look funny.

My question is what else am i missing in getting the stance you want for your car because some of the other wheels running the same specs look perfect to me and then the wheels I'm looking at are poking too much on the directory. I don't know much about camber bolts and stuff either so I don't know if that plays a part or is completely irrelevant. Any suggestions, help, or 18x9.5 pictures to show me I'm wrong and it won't poke appreciated.

As of now I'm tempted to just make the purchase of 18x9.5 all around and hope for the best or get 18x8.5 up front and hope for the best. I figured I'd ask the much more knowledgeable people on the forum first though.

Whenever someone asks for advice about stancing their car, my answer is always this:

Don't do it.

Are you going for just stance or do you want good performance?

Just looks right now.. and when I say stances I don't want the car slammed to the ground with the wheels sticking out. Just lowered a bit with a clean flush look. The more I look at the forums I'm leaning towards 18x8.5 +38 all around. The wheels would only be semi concave then :(

Seeing this thread I'm about to say fuck it and order the 18x9.5 all around. I don't even want to drop mine as much as he did

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...t=20907&page=5

If going just for looks, might as well go staggered. The 18x9.5 is really too wide up front.

For a more performance oriented option, 18x8 +35 square setup would sit pretty flush.

18x10 all around

Jesus, this forum.

1. don't go staggered.
2. with 18x9.5, +38 and a 255/35 tire... you'll need something like 1.5 to 2 degrees of camber in front to avoid rubbing the fender. that's hardly "stanced."

Go read the meaty tire thread and see what's been done. Stop posting junk threads. And the rest of you, stop giving bad advice and being "performance" snobs.

@sdemo is totally correct. The amount of perceived "poke" is going to be determined by how much negative camber you're running as well as wheel offset and width.

In the front, with a 1.5" drop, you might need 1.0 - 2.0 degrees of negative camber to "tuck" the top of the wheel and prevent it from looking like it's poking (even though, technically, the bottom of the wheel will be). Don't worry about that, in the end it works and looks good. Most achieve this with either camber bolts or adjustable top hats.

In the rear, if you drop the car 1.5" you'll get roughly -1.2 degrees of natural negative camber. That should be enough because the rear fender clearance is better.

In general I avoid buying staggered setups if that's not what came from the factory. The last thing you want to have to deal with is a RWD car that understeers like a FWD car because the balance of front and rear grip has been thrown for a loop just to get a look.

You just contradicted yourself. You care about understeer and then call others "performance snobs". I was just giving a couple of options to consider. A lot of the stance guys do staggered because it looks better. That's all some people care about.

Personally I think it's retarded to use an 18x9.5 wheel on an 86 with stockish power levels. A light 18x8 with a low offset would be a good compromise.

I care about understeer? When did I say anything about that? OP just wants some wheels that look nice and are semi-flush with the fender... not hellaflush, not stanced, not any of that other nonsense.

To turn this into a stance v. performance thread is ridiculous and likely confusing for the OP.


EDIT: @DAEMANO we must be brothers from another mother... both with RSR Sports-I and SA10rs heh

Thank you for giving me the exact info I was looking for. Your amazing. I just got my car 2 weeks ago this is just the first mod I plan on doing.

First off I did look at that that thread as well. That's part of why I'm asking the question some of the cars look perfect to me and others don't but have the same specs.

Second don't call my thread "junk" when I in fact got the exact answer I was looking for from @DAEMANO. I was looking for an explanation as to why some cars looked different with the same wheel spec and @DAEMANO provided that for me. Im new to modding cars as I didn't care to mod my auto frs I initially had. Id like to have a full understanding of what I'm getting myself into before I spend a few thousand dollars and end up upset so I figured I'd ask the forum seeing as I thought that's what the forum was for. I spent plenty of time on other threads including the meaty tire one before making this one.
Thank you as well for telling me the amount of camber I'd expect with those wheels

Op from what you've posted I really think you will be unhappy with 9.5

Look how many wider wheels are for sale in classifieds.

IMO you sound like you want a 8.5 with a higher offset. 38-45 is good.

I have staggered 8.5/9.5 +45 I regret. Then 9.5 +45 even pokes in the rear imagine up front.

To turn this into a stance v. performance thread is ridiculous and likely confusing for the OP.



I know what stance v is and hate it. Looks broken to me and would never do it

Sorry, I must have combined your post with another one in my head. That's what I get when I try to write posts on my phone. :bonk:

lol what? there are wide wheels in the classifieds because that's what most people buy, so of course there are more of them for sale. it's not because they're unhappy with the width - more likely that they've bought a new set or are selling their car.

18x9.5 +45 surely only pokes in the rear on a stock suspension car with little to no camber. What exactly are the supporting specs for this claim? (tire size, suspension, camber, ride height...)

EDIT: and up front, I have the same spec wheel on my moderately lowered car (with 255/35s) and I want to space them OUT, if anything. I rub the inner fender liner at full lock... and a lower offset (closer to +40) would be better

I think we just have good taste. Love the wheels and the coils... so much.

Really though, the coils were a godsend. Had them on the car for about 2 years and 20k miles now. They really do everything @Moto-P set them up to do. For the price, the comfort and performance have been a total win.

My only issue with the wheels has been that curb rash is hard to mend due to the gorgeous two-tone finish. Eventually I'll probably end up fixing the rash on mine and then powdering them bronze like the new factory bronze version. My car is black so it'll end up looking something like the FT86SF car here:http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=109671

As-Is
http://i.imgur.com/V3GVXfn.jpg?1

To-Be
http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/imag...onze_brz_1.jpg

http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/imag...onze_brz_3.jpg

I'm most likely going to end up with 18x8.5 +38 all around. I'm now thinking about if I want to do +47 up front instead +38. I know still looking at other threads

Both those cars are sitting perfect 💜

Get the +38s.

For reference, I am at 18x8.5 et 45 up front and run a 15mm spacer for an effective offset of et30. I still have about 10mm of room to come outward (poke more) in the front that would still tuck.

I run a 225 section tire that gives some space, but could easily go 245 in the same brand (BFG Geforce Sport Comp2s) which run very wide.

I am lowered 1.6" in the front with 2.0 degrees of negative camber. Here's a close up.

http://i.imgur.com/qw30bbG.jpg?1

What is missing? EVERYTHING.

The following is needed to have an accurate comparison if you are only looking at pictures:

change in static ride height vs stock
camber
tire size
tire type
wheel width
wheel offset
wheel maker

of the above items I listed, 5 out of 7 are not consistent measurements across the industry. 18x9.5" +38 can vary by as much as 5mm in each direction on the front face, depending on who makes the wheel.

In practice, you should lay out goals you want and then go from there. If you are set on wheels then you can remove three of the 7 things I listed above.

-alex

I'm set on the kiwami wheels. They only come in deep concave for 18x9.5 and only available in +38 which Is what I was looking for. If I go down a size 18x8.5 (they don't come in 18x9) they'd only be semi concave.
I understand what your saying about the many things that vary. I feel like it'd be a safer bet for me to go 18x8.5 +38. Especially after the pictures provided.

I think you just sold me on the +38. That looks perfect! My car is black as well

If you want a really agressive fitment and don't care much for square setup and don't mind stagger you could do 18x8.5 +35 front and 18x9.5 +40 rear it'll pretty much line up flat with car body but leave enough room to not scrape ender wall. If you do go 18x9.5 all around front wheel will stick out more than rear. After that you'll probably want coilovers if you don't already have it, find one that'll give about 3 in drop adjustable, than get some LCA to adjust camber in rear , optional to have camber bolt in front to adjust camber. -1 ish camber won't be noticeable which will give you some room for tinker with.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...03e9486d2c.jpg