Best way to sell my FR-S? N Indiana / Chicagoland /Michigan area
 

I put my FRS up on Craigslist for the blue book value but I'm wondering if it is priced appropriately for the area and if there are better ways to sell than craigslist.

Have a look and let me know your thoughts on how I am selling this. Also, if anyone is interested, give me an offer.
Has anyone tried selling or buying through eBay motors?

Here is the listing.
So I guess this is a question AND a listing.

How much would you pay for this car?

[quote]2013 Scion FR-S (Toyota)

condition: excellent
cylinders: 4 cylinders
drive: rwd
fuel: gas
odometer: 25500
paint color: silver
title status: clean
transmission: manual
type: coupe

I think it should sell for about $16,000 and you throw in the winter wheels.


humfrz

stand on the corner and get good dancing with a sign

http://weknowmemes.com/wp-content/up...ng-pro-gif.jpg

i know someone that will always buy your car for an 'appropriate' price...and that is the dealership!

Pfff!

The "stealership" isn't any different than GameStop when it comes to sales and trades.If he sells it to the dealership,and it's in really good to great condition,they will surely try to sell it for about $20k or a little more,in this area.Unfortunately for private sellers,that's just the way it works.

If the OP is really trying to get rid of it fast,I'd say check out Carmax and see how much they will offer you,as they give you an amount that they are willing to pay right there.

I meant that with full sarcasm hence the quotes around 'appropriate'..don't deal with the deal-ership

If you really want to sell a car quickly, with no hassle, and a "reasonable" price, CarMax is the place.

I've sold 3 cars to CarMax instead of trading at a dealership. Been very satisfied with each transaction.

Honestly, I think it's overpriced. I've seen cheaper listings.

I also bought my BRZ that had 19k miles for only $17k...last year. Came with an extra set of wheels/tires/brake pads/oil cooler as well.

I think $16k would have people interested, and people will want to buy it for under that. Definitely include the winter setup with the sale at no charge. Winter is coming up, making this sports car less desirable, to some.

Yeah,I thought so,but just in case the OP wasn't sure...

I'd remove the "aggressive stance and excellent traction" part. That tells me you possibly drove it harder than "normal" as a buyer.

Ditch that whole write up. Reading that I would have moved on after about the first three sentences. I almost expected to read "bro" after each line and if I read "also" one more time I would wake up screaming in the night.
Give the basics and leave all the editorial stuff out.
For sale:
2013 Frs
Xxxxxxxx miles.
Well maintained and in good condition.
Some suspension modifications.
Great on gas.
$111111111
For more information contact ...

Nobody is going to buy an FR-S for $111 million with 10 million miles...

Actually the price the dealer will give you is completely appropriate. Why should they give anybody top dollar for the pleasure of taking on the work and risk of selling it? You want to get full value then you sit on it and go through all the hassles of selling it.
I know everybody wants to buy low and sell high but when everybody calls dealers "Stealership" for wanting to do the exact same thing it bugs the crap out of me. They are entitled to make some money for their work just like everybody else.

What can I say. The Canadian dollar sucks right now!

So miata's are running about $140 million now I guess...

:D

Or whatever other random number of times I hit 1.

I'm not from your area, but I did recently sell a car in Toronto (an equally sized major metropolitan area to Chicago). I listed my MINI Cooper S on Autotrader and Kijiji. Generally I found the Kijiji ad did better. 80% or more of the responses on Autotrader were scams I could sniff out instantly. Offers to take it sight unseen, negotiate unseen then offer to use PayPal (never, there is no coverage for cars there), shipping scams, you name it.

Post a variety of pictures and keep your description fairly objective. List out the facts people will want to see, discuss condition, and anything else that is pertinent (accident history, emissions tests, etc.)

If you aren't in a rush to move the car, then keep it at the price you want and wait. You will have to keep in mind the market though, and if you are the most expensive car off its type, well... You might be waiting a while. Since these cars only really come one way and without many options, is really easy to compare apples to apples. Used car buyers are price sensitive generally.

I priced in the lower middle range of MINIs of similar age and mileage, despite having more options. Sold for the middle of my target price. Could I have held out for more? Probably, but I wanted the hassle to be over after just two weeks. Depends on your partridge and tolerance for tire kickers.

Sent from my ONE A2005 using Tapatalk

everytime i dealt with a stealership they always ended up trying to lowball me...everytime ...not even me asking for full value...just wanted an appropriate price but nope they tried to rip me off...not even the kbb value for trade in

Whenever sombody says "every time I tried to do xxx" about a dealing with sombody else my default thought is "well maybe it is you and not them". KBb is a guide and has several levels for condition. Maybe you think your cars were perfect but I doubt the dealers did. My experience is totally opposite and I feel I always received a good price for my trade ins but I went into them knowing that my cars were almost valueless due to high miles.

in this case my car and even motorcycles met the conditions otherwise i wouldn't bother presenting them the kbb value but nope they want to be like gamestop and buy it for a low price then sell it for a higher price even if the vehicle is not 3 years old and under 50,000 miles in near showroom condition minus regular wear and tear of course that comes with driving....it's probably because all the dealers i seem to go to have european looking loan sharks working there

my friend we give you great price on your car, best deal from us, yes?

I never said that it wasn't appropriate. I said that it was a shame for the person selling the car that they hardly ever get more money back than what the dealership sells it for.

And me calling it a "stealership" isn't just about their trade and resale practices,which to be totally fair,we consumers ultimately dictate. They make more money off of parts and service than anything else.

I live in roughly the same area as you, and the pricing seems to be roughly in line with what other '13 FRS with similar mileage and what not are going for. That being said, none of them are worth that much or will actually sell for that. I'd expect to get closer to $16k. And there are better deals out there. Like this one:

http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/cto/5693847902.html (A couple ricey things on it, but less than half the mileage and cheaper)

I'm not a big fan of the first sentence in your description or the sentence structure either. It comes off somewhat as being written by someone in their early 20's or younger, which can lead potential buyers to assume it was more likely to have been driven irresponsibly. But that could just be my overly-critical nature, particularly having a background working in marketing.

GLWS

So someone went to buy my car in eBay and then visited these boards, found me somehow, and then backed out after he saw posts where I was worrying about all sorts of little things about my car. He grilled me about if my gears would grind and I said no, unless I was downshifting and tried to drop it into gear before the pedal was depressed (basically I was accidentally hot shifting occasionally but since it wasn't on purpose, the gears weren't 100% meshed and I created a "grind"... I just stopped that from happening by pushing the pedal half way before switching gears and voila, butter). That was probably my downfall. I scared him with TMI. Anyway, if I could delete all my posts I would. This is a lesson in online presence I guess. But since I am here and since I can't seem to delete all my posts, I will tell the tale of what happened because I want to.
I had it up on eBay then found out by ebay's auto check that the car was in a fender bender, which I never knew about when I bought it because carfax didn't tell me that. Don't use carfax anymore. So, I went to carMax and they tested it and auto checked it and said my bumper and quarter panel was replaced and painted after the fender bender. They offered me $14k on the spot. I listed it in eBay for 15.5 and took $15.1k after I took copious videos and photos, citing the nicks and scratches as reasons for the lower price (my honesty didn't work out here). He backed out after he saw me ask about the gear box and why the shift points are so narrow. That is what burned me because no matter what I said (that someone from the dealer drove abs said it was fine, that the Blackstone labs gear oil analysis came back and said it was fine, that someone from turnin concepts tested it and it was fine) he didn't want it anymore.

No one could know more about a used car going into the purchase than he did but hey. What can I do. It's an interesting lesson.

Also, if anybody wants it, I'll sell it to someone on these boards for $14,900. This is $100 under my lowest price on eBay and Craigslist. Come have a look. You know the full history Pm me if interested.

I have always traded my vehicles through a "real, primary" dealership except for 3 vehicles. All the rest have been traded. Why? EASY. Sales tax credit when buying the next car. Traded in car does not need to be perfect. I don't want to hear the buyer bitching about tire wear, shit he heard on the internet (OP), paint swirls, blah blah blah.

If I had a PERFECT example of a car .... then I would attempt to sell it privately.

I'm at a point in my life that I do not like to deal with buyer-seller hassles.

I should have done that. I didn't realize that I would get a tax credit on he next purchase by doing that. Really learned two things today: 1) I can haggle down private sellers with >$10k cars as a private buyer 2) never sell a car more than maybe $5k privately if I am going to buy from a dealer. We ended up getting a volt and I thought I could do better to sell privately than trade in. I was wroooooong

After all of the trouble you seem to be having,you should just take the $14K from Carmax and call it a day.

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

you get a tax credit for trade ins? hows that work?

They subtract tax you paid. Its not really worth it.
Yes you do get tax credit but you lose $1-3k for trading in.

But you also possibly save a bunch of headache and time. Not saying I would but good to have the info that it helps balance teade in a bit more.

I would still check Carmax first though