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Rear and front camber opinion.
I just had my alignment done. Its seem like my front camber did not change. I had the spc camber bolt in the front on the bottom hole. Its this number look ok?. I was hoping -1.4 up front. Any though would be great! Thanks
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Your shop didn't adjust them, take it back or find another shop.
Ideally this issue should have been raised before you took your car back. |
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You need to tell the tech what your goal is. If you want -1.4, tell them to try and hit it.
Personally, if you just have camber bolts up front, I'd tell them to aim for as much as they can get up front to gain more negative front than you have rear. (Even though.) Do you have any other mods, or just camber bolts? |
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Alright, then my suggestion would be to hit around -2.5 if they can, and when you have components to dial back the camber in the rear a bit, you can play with the fronts more.
Also, zero toe. |
Ok thank you!
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I would try a different shop or different mechanic. With Whiteline camber bolts (identical to SPC), I was able to get the following alignment:
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Also if you're at a shop that doesn't do specific alignments (i.e., just puts it within factory spec), it might help to tip the mechanic with money or beer. Sears is like that but I once was able to get a custom alignment by tipping the mechanic a $20. |
+1 on finding another shop. In Tempe/Phoenix you should be able to find a shop that specializes in Subarus and does performance oriented alignments that knows this platform very well.
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Latest alignment discussion: http://www.azsolo.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=14487
All the recommended places will do a custom alignment for you. |
If you're lowered with camber bolts and that's it, I would max my camber myself and then take to a shop to have them set the toe.
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Ok thanks everyone!! Yes i forgot to mention i do have lower spring- sportline
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http://www.ft86club.com/forums/attac...8&d=1371515612 |
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2) lifetime alignements usually mean you have to take it back multiple times for them to get it right (I know I do). Try aday theh are normally slow so they dont rush it. I persoannly use it only to get my toe in line from time to time and pay a good shop when I have specs I want to hit |
Network Alignment on the west side of town did my alignment. They work with fully built race cars all the time and will get it to whatever specs you provide, given you have the correct parts to achieve said specs.
Then you have like 60 days if you think something is not to your specs for them to throw it on the rack again free of charge. Also I have my camber bolts in the same top slot.:thumbup: |
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I would recommend following the instructions on bolt placement. Different part numbers have different instructions. The top and bottom bolts are different sizes. Also the position of the "lobe" for camber adjustment is opposite if you put them on top. |
I went to the different shop, they said they not able to get the camber more than -.08 in the front. Did i installed the bolt wrong?
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I hope to god you didn't pay for that. |
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-.08? For real? Or was it -0.8?
Which shop did you go to? Hard to install this wrong. I've posted elsewhere but a lot of places will look at their database, see "front camber not adjustable," and tell you that they won't adjust camber (honest places) or make up a story about how they tried and couldn't get more than X camber (dishonest places). In particular if you went to one of the places in the thread I posted, and they didn't bother to get you any camber, I'd like to know about it to warn others. If you're using the SPC bolt there is no reason you shouldn't be over -1.0 at a bare minimum, unless you got oddball hardware from the factory. I'd also like to see pics. |
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Really recommend you just do it yourself so you know it's done right, then get a toe alignment afterwards. Loosen both bolts, carefully place a jack under the brake rotor and jack it up some to shove the strut inwards, then torque the nuts to spec before loosening the jack. For a tiny bit extra loosen the three nuts on the top hat when you do this. |
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Looks like you need to rotate the tab 180. That should move the shaft of the bolt (and the bottom of the wheel) out. From there you should be able to rotate the bolt and the lobe will fine tune your adjustment. Torque back to spec when done.
Disclaimer: Due to stock class autocross rules I have never installed an eccentric bolt for camber purposes. |
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The tab seemed right. But you have to rotate the bolt too, where the arrow points towards the wheel. The arrow indicates the highest point of the slop
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Correct me if I'm wrong but the washer is simply that. A washer with a tab.
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