Door Lock Actuator - Repair Manual Request
 

I posted this post in a different thread a while back. I am pretty certain I know the issue with my door lock. I found the part number and cheaper place to order it.

I was just wondering if anyone has the repair manual for the actuator?

First of all, I have removed dead keyfob battery, or car battery issue as the variables. I have a "hunch" on what is going as I have some background with door locks.

My issue is that the door would not lock/unlock (drivers side) at times... There are days when i walk up to my car and its already unlock but when I start it, the alarm goes off. Meaning the car "locked" but the actual physical lock didnt dis-engage.

Other days, I walk up to my car and unlocking it using the touch sensitive and the car would try to unlock (4 consecutive beeps) but never unlocks...

So here is a first video that show's its a hit or miss for me.. sometimes the car would lock or unlock.

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9r9InMCBjU4"]Door Lock Actuator Issue - YouTube[/ame]

Teh second video shows the actuator cannot lock the door at all. Keeping the door open does not matter once the car is off.

The car will only not let you lock the car if the car is running and the door is open.

Also, you can hear that the lock is engaging and disengaging but that is the passenger side door that you hear.

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o1EyNdYWVD4"]Door Lock Issue 2 - YouTube[/ame]

I know it is the door actuator because I work for a company that sell those motors. The DC motor in the lock meganism have issue. Either the teeth of the gears are wornout, or the actual motor itself. I tried removing it over the weekend but it was hard to access the mechanism. it will require removing the door handle outside (maybe).

I found a replacement part available online. and I might buy it to replace mine. The only issue is there is no DYI anywhere that shows how to replace it.

I might buy the part and have a dealership install it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2013-2014-SU...3D131374528187


I hope this make sense or its the same issue people are seeing.

Have you tried giving it a shot of silicone spray ...... before you rip it apart .. ??


humfrz

This should help.

Any updates ? My 2013 scion Fr-s has the same exact issue you described.

Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk

I have exactly the same problem and would love to know if replacing the actuator fixed it for you before I order one.

Thanks!

Holy wow. This post is old. Update. Havent gone to the ddealership to replace it. Looked at the part and its 90 bucks.

The worst thing is...both door locks are messed up now. My passenger side just started acting up today.

I don't really know what to do with this issue. @volksman @neo95

Yes you do. You just haven't done it.

lol

Well honestly I dont know. Easiest way is swapping part but what if there is an underlying issue and cause it to go back?

I am busy prepping my car right now for track so all my budget is going to that. It will just be an issue this winter not being able to just unlock with my key fob. I park outside (no garage) so a little sacrifice. But I managed to live with it since i posted this thread in July.

I doubt it is the motor or gears since it is sporadic. If the motor or gears are damaged or worn it would do it all the time not just sometimes. More likely a signal or control issue.

The driver's side hasn't gotten any worse?

The driverside is completely inoperable. I have to unlock the car with the key on the keyfob. Btw i have limited so i have to slide the key out.

:mad0260::thumbdown:

It could be the motor since the driverside door went completely dead. I have to see if the harness get any power. Fuses are okay.:mad0259:

I have had both mine replaced under warranty, first one went, no idea how long my was unlocked for before i realized.
Passengers side was done first, drivers two weeks later the drivers side went on me.
Been paranoid they will die again now its out of warranty.

Yeah mine started happening around 37k just right after my warranty expired.

I researched everywhere on how to replace it and it literally tells you to remove everything on the door. Strip it all the way. Even remove the glasses and window lift motor just to get to that door lock mechanism.

Luckly, I have experience doing it as I had to help strip my friends FRS for a race car conversion. It just takes a long time and putting them back together is a different story.

If you're really patient you can disassemble the latch. Maybe something is just binding. I got an extra few years out of one on a Camry.

Wouldn't count on it though. :(

I thought about that but still you have to get that whole latch assembly out of the doors...which means you have to take the whole door stuff out (window glass, regulator, motor, etc)

I work for a company that does door lock. I would just find a motor sitting in the office and swap worms if I could.

That sounds painful, Hopefully the replacements last longer.

I was glad it did it just before my warranty ran out..
unlike my water pump, that went a month after it finished..

@Tcoat @Ultramaroon

I have to revive this thread as I finally did fix it and did investigation.

The main culprit is the motor. Grease built up on the commutators that prevents full contact to drive the motor. The worm gear or connections are totally fine.

I completely replaced the whole door lock assembly (40 bucks used on EBay). Replacing it was really easy. I just didnt want to do the work of removing the panels, window, and part of the regulator assembly. But I was bored and the car was sitting in the shop.

I tried mending the old one but it was impossible to open the door lock housing with out breaking tabs and ruining part of the mechanism inside. I knew I wasn't going to get it back together so I just tore it apart.

With my background with motors, I opened it and immediately found the issue. Cleaned the commutator and the motor works fine now but I cannot put it back together.

There you have it. If anyone wants to do this, it's easy. 2 years of procrastination didn't help.

Oh well, better late than never. Makes perfect sense. Interesting failure mode. Sloppy application during assembly, or design oversight allowing grease to sling in there?

So that was probably why it was sporadic at first. If it stopped in the wrong place it wouldn't work. If it stopped where clear it would. Eventually the whole thing just got so gunked up it didn't matter where it stopped. Makes sense. Thanks.

It can be anything. There are many materials in the car that can outgas "silicone" which is basically grease. Over time it can get to the motor which is the failure for this. To fail at 36k though it is probably assembly and they just added too much grease and migrated to the motor.

Probably a bad batch or something but not a lot of people get them.

Yep exactly. When I ran it first just motor only, the motor didnt run but once I spun it a little it moved.

So, 2 years after having mine replaced, they are playing up again..

And I doubt Subi will care about any warranty after i told them to get fucked and trying to screw me over. .

I reckon i could rebuild the existing one, but need a spare, just in case..

I was able to figure out how to get the lock actuator out of the door without taking out the glass. But after examining the housing I couldn't find a way to safely take it apart to fix the motor so it looks like I'll be replacing the actuator as well. Any idea what the part number is? I've found used ones on e-bay but they don't list the part number and I'd like to try O'Reiley or Napa to see if I can get a remanufactured part.

Anyone have a part number for the lock assembly?

Just started experiencing this issue :-(

Just look up BRZ door actuator in Ebay.

i have the opposite problem...

No concerns opening / locking my doors with the key FOB electronically

but the door won't open with the manual key. no matter how much i wiggle, push, pull, turn left, turn right, grease, lube, nothing works. I tried both keys. Had to replace the battery before I could get back into my car..

now i walk around with a spare battery attached to my key chain because the physical key itself does not work on my door lol

Hey, I know it's been a minute, but how did you get it out without removing the glass?

https://i.imgur.com/yBEq3Iy.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/wuooH2x.jpg



Never mind. It slips right out behind the window rail.


I did disconnect the bar that connects to the outside by just dropping the latch down and pulling up a bit on the bar.