Going to dealership for new brz
 

So I need a new Brz and plan to go to dealership tomorrow to check out a wrb limited that is 29k and a red premium for 26k. With the new 2017 launching in the next couple months I was wondering how much I could get the price down for either models. Any tips or suggestions on how to get the lowest price possible so I get the best deal for either?

Visit on the last couple days of the month - if they have any factory targets for a dealership bonus, they may be close enough to give you extra cash off.

That said, if I was you I'd wait until the '17s arrived. Then find and buy a leftover '16 at the end of whatever month that is. That's about when you can maximize your savings.

29k for a Limited is way too high, IMHO. I paid 27,350 for my brand new Series.Blue.

I paid $25k for my Limited (with the interior lighting package, trunk mat and garage door opener/rear-view mirror) about two months ago.


At that price, you'd be a FOOL to go with the Premium, lol. Unless you were really just looking to keep your payments low. You could probably pick up the Premium for $21k or so.


The dealer I bought from had NINE BRZs on the lot, which also helped my case. So maybe look online and see who has the most BRZs to choose from.

https://www.carbuyingtips.com/
http://www.fightingchance.com/
http://www.realcartips.com/

starting places

Agreed. I paid under $27k for my 2016 DGM Limited in March.

Yeah i paid 25k$ for my '16 WRP Blue Limited BRZ. What the first response said wait till the end of the month. Wait till the new model is actually out on the lot. Also you want to make sure they arent sold out of the '17 model. If they have some in the lot it means that they REALLY want to get rid of the previous year because the new year isnt selling as fast. Also try to go on a holiday. I bought my car on memorial day and got a lot of stuff either discounted or free (like warranty). I recommend also start talking to one of the guys there. Try to get someone who looks like they are kinda new. Build rapport with them. Generally the newer guys are really trying to make sales to prove they can do the job. I was talking to my sales rep for about 6 months before i bought my car. He called me his "premium internet customer" (whatever the hell that means. But it meant i got the latest model of the '16 down from 30k$ (i'm in CA) to 25k$ and i got free coating on my car as well as free warranty on my windshield and tires.

Car salesmen negotiate prices using a shell game. If you don't like the price, they'll switch over to the financing and talk about monthly payments to make it seem like you're paying less than you are. If you don't like the financing, they'll switch over to the value of your trade and try to confuse you with the fact that more is less and less is more. Any time you start to make any headway toward a good deal, they'll switch to something else to keep you off balance. Some of them even use a silly diagram with four squares in it (called a four-square) to move numbers around inexplicably to confuse you. If a salesman pulls that thing out, laugh at him and say, "Put that away or I'm leaving."

With that said, you'll get the best deal if you pay cash and don't have a trade, because it takes those items off the table. All the salesman can negotiate then is price and options, and there aren't many options available for this car. He doesn't have as many shells to move around to hide where he's screwing you. You'll usually get the best price if that's all you're negotiating.

If you must finance, shop around to credit unions for the best interest rate you can find and get pre-approved for the loan before you go in to negotiate with the salesman. You'll usually get a better deal on the loan, and it takes financing off the table so you can concentrate on getting the best price. Many (if not most) credit unions will lend to you even if you're not already a member. When the salesman tries to switch to financing, just say, "I already have financing in place," and shut him down.

If you have a trade, consider selling it outright instead. You'll usually get more for it, and it takes that off the table as well so the salesman only gets to deal with you on price. If the timing is such that you simply can't sell it in its own time but need to do it all at the same time, just refuse to talk about trade until after you get a price you like on the new car. Every time the salesman starts talking about your trade, just say, "I'm not sure I'm going to trade it," and go back to talking about the price instead. When you finally get to a price you like on the car, then say, "Okay, what can you do for me on a trade." Then negotiate only on trade and refuse to budge off the price of the new car. Doing it one at a time will keep him from moving shells around.

You will usually get a better deal at the end of the month IF the sales team hasn't made their sales quota. If you drive by the dealership at 7pm on the last day of the month and the lights are on and the floor is full of salesmen, you'll likely get a really good deal if you walk in there ready to pay cash. Sometimes the sales bonus is enough that the dealership can practically give the car away and still make money. Once they make that quota, however, they're not under as much pressure.

All the tips to how to buy is little out dated.
I was salesman for a while and I think people think too much.
1. Call or email few dealers for best otd number.
2. Go with lowest.
3. Don't get tricked into extra fees
4. Try to get ur own financing thru Union and use that to negotiate.

But I must say, please don't be that guy who calls every dealerships in state, do not drive 500miles for 100dollar better deal. I have met too many people like this and they are the worst of the worst.

What ^he^ said. I found all the Series.Blue models within even a half-days's drive of me, and found the one with the lowest price (which was the $27,350 price.) That seemed eerily low for that model car, and I assumed it was a "false" price posted online just to lure you into the dealership. So I emailed two OTHER dealerships saying, "XXX dealership has a Series.Blue for $27,350 but I'd rather buy from you." I fully expected them to laugh at that price, but one of them said, "Sure we will match them. Come on in." So I did, still expecting them to change their tune when I arrived (and not really meaning to buy the car) but when they stuck to that price I was just like, "Fuck it."

I could probably have haggled a tiny bit more, but I feel like people take this car buying/haggling thing to such levels that they give themselves a stroke. The way I see it, if you've done the research, you'll know what price you'd be happy with. Once you get to that point, just buy the fucking car. I was happy with that number, so I bought the car. Easy peasy. No haggling, no nothing. I'm happy. They're happy. Done.

I hope you don't find of those salesman who tells you it's AWD, twin-turbocharged, etc., but if you do, share the story lol.

For 30k I'd get a WRX.

Haggle extras. I got TRD exhaust, gps and intake. Call around, check Toyota dealers too. Local one here just sold a hyper blue for 26k with 4k miles.

Never go into dealerships - search inventory online and email dealers to give you the best deal.

That's an incredible price for a Series.Blue - 3k off msrp!

29K is too high. I got my series blue for 28.5k.

At this point in the '16s life cycle, you can do much better than $29k.

I factory ordered my '16 DGM limited-automatic (with factory sub) for $29k back in September 2015. I still can't decide if that was a good deal or not, but I've already made memories with road trips and autocross.




Plus the dealership doesn't give me any hassle over warranty work.

Maybe he wants a sports car instead.

I was behind a brand new STI with the dealer plates still on in the drive thru at Starbucks this morning and hadn't really realized how bloated it is in comparison. The guy was sitting almost a foot higher than I was. I could barely see over that car's fat ass.

I understand the appeal of the Impreza and its performance derivatives, but I don't understand why people try to compare what's basically a modified family car with the BRZ. They're not really similar at all.

Does it have to be new? Couldn't you find a low mileage used for $10,000 less than the listed figures?

Not really comparing. I was just saying if im paying $30k for a new Subaru, id get the one really worth $30k. New BRZ you can find cheaper than x<27k otdp now with new models coming out. Just got to dig.

Concerning appeal of new WRX...well for me I like the stiff suspension, awd, real boost, FA20 DIT, 4 door for more stuff, more people, easier access and overall look. I'd probably work on the rear tails but overall its not as ugly as the bug eye they released a whiles ago. That's my opinion. STI not my style... even if its same chassis [?] but diff engine. Too much sport for me like buying a Corvette.

FIFY

I honestly don't know why or how this turned into a "dealership negotiation for dummies" thread. OP never said he couldn't work with salesmen.

As many people have said already, wait until a few weeks before the new model is released, or right afterward, and at the END of the month. With luck you'll walk in while they are both trying to get rid of the rest of the old models AND meet their monthly quota. The only "tip" I would give is to just be knowledgeable of the BRZ, which I'm sure you are. Even if they are in a squeeze to sell the 16's they will still try to raise the price as much as they can. If a customer is ignorant about relative prices and package options then this makes that easy for them.

Also, don't buy a BRZ for 29k. I got my 14 limited for 19k with only 21k miles on it, and there are 16's out there for 25k>. The series.blue is cool but not worth an extra 5k.

Um...

http://www.bklynlibrary.org/sites/de...amental__1.jpg

I found cargurus.com very useful for zeroing in on the car you want. A lovely used 2014 Limited popped up at a "Tyota" dealer with every extra everything, looked like it spent life in the garage except when he took it to have the next thing installed, and "used" meant 6800 miles. Oh, and priced at 23,000. Needless to say, I fell over myself getting there before anybody else did. And, it was in the next state, where the sales tax was half what I would get dinged at home.

It all depends . . .

:cheers:

Consider also that the best deal on paper may not be the best, real world 'deal'.

Push stupidly hard to save a few bucks on payments, and you may find yourself on the losing end in terms of your 'prick factor' rating. If something goes wrong, or if you want your dealer to 'help' with mods, you may find yourself the low man on the scrotum pole.

The sales, service, and admin folks are a team at many dealerships. They're human beans, and they're just doing their jobs, as you are at your work. Prick and non-prick customers grapevine quickly.

Negotiate firmly, but respectfully.

Realize also that you're not buying a best-selling family sedan. In some markets, the twins are pretty rare, and dealers will be able to sell every single one they acquire.

Sometimes that means you take it up the ass.

Yes, you buy more of a car with the WRX.
:thumbsup:

Going to dealership for new brz
 

I got it for 26k, I never said I would pay sticker price that's obviously the dumbest thing anyone can do. Maybe if this car just came out in 2013 I would understand but my question was basically how much lower I could negotiate it down to. Most people said 25k.

if I waited till end of month I'm sure I could of gotten it a little cheaper but probabsly wouldn't of gotten the color I wanted which was WRB or red. The premium red wasn't even on the lot but they had the limited WRB with 5 miles on the odometer. Which is exactly what I wanted and couldn't wait till end of the month since I was paying out of pocket for a rental after my insurance wouldn't pay anymore for it.

They tried to get me to pay 26553 the price of the premium red but I wanted 25-26k and told them 26k flat otherwise it's a no go. Especially since in so cal there was a dealership 30-40 miles away with 4 wrb premium and limited Brz sitting on their lot. So I just walked away and they told me they would do 26k flat even after trying to get me to pay 26338. Found it funny they didn't want to even do 26k until I walked off. Only downside is it has the ugly chrome trim installed already.

Congrats!

Because until then, they didn't know you were serious. Most people will cave.

dealerships are a scam, kudos for to you for sticking to your guns and paying $26k!