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Product Guide: What do you need after Opti Coat/Guard
This guide is for everyone who had their cars opti coated/guarded. If your detailer suggested different products, no worries. This guide should be loosely followed as it includes products I use on a regular basis.
Let me start out by saying that opti coat/guard is NOT an invincible product, so don't attempt anything you normally wouldn't with your paint otherwise. It is considered to be very hard clear coat, and should be maintained as such. That means weekly washes, and claying of the coating when necessary. If you wash your car weekly, soap and water + a good set of brushes is all you'll ever need: http://www.autodetailingsolutions.ne...l-brushes.html You could rinse the brushes as you are done with each wheel, or have a bucket handy. If you are as OCD as me, you'll want to scrub the tires and fender well as well, for that, use this: http://www.autodetailingsolutions.net/d10332.html Use the short handle brush for wheels, and the long handle brush for fender well: http://www.autodetailingsolutions.net/85-808.html http://www.autodetailingsolutions.net/85-637.html Use #0000 steel wool to clean exhaust tip (Alongside Meguiar's APC+), you can find this steel wool @ Home depot or the likes. To polish exhaust tips, use this: http://www.autodetailingsolutions.ne...lish-8-oz.html Now we're down to the actual wash, Have two 5 gallon buckets handy (Again, from home depot or whatever), and get two of these: http://www.autodetailingsolutions.net/grit-guard.html For proper two bucket method, go on youtube and search "2 bucket method", watch the video made by "Auto Lavish". Get this for wash mitt: http://www.microfibertech.com/Autofi...itt_p_268.html Or if you prefer wool, wool mitt of your choice. Use this for soap: http://www.autodetailingsolutions.net/d11001.html And this to aid drying: http://www.autodetailingsolutions.ne...nr-gallon.html Get one of these to dry: http://www.microfibertech.com/25-x-3...ack_p_253.html Use this as tire shine if you prefer a semi gloss finish: http://www.autodetailingsolutions.ne...ant-32-oz.html Use whatever you got handy as applicator for tire shine For clay, use this: http://www.autodetailingsolutions.net/c2000.html I know you're all thinking, I just spent good money for the opti coat/guard process, and now you're telling me I have to spend all these extra money to maintain it? Well yes, spend the money and you will have a perfect/near perfect finish YEAR AFTER YEAR, plus you'll save tons by doing this yourself instead of going to the car wash week after week. |
to go along with what mike said, you should be washing your car weekly regardless if your car is opticoated or not.
when the paint has been opticoated, i noticed that washing was very easy. nothing seems to want to stick to the paint once it has been coated with opticoat. |
good stuff!
but some links dont work |
I think it's because I copied and pasted the links over from another forum I'm on. I'll fix it later when I have access to internet on my laptop again. Current don't have internet/TV at the new house I just bought
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http://www.microfibertech.com/25-x-3...ack_p_253.html
http://www.autodetailingsolutions.ne...nr-gallon.html http://www.autodetailingsolutions.ne...ant-32-oz.html Could be wrong, but I think those are the broken links. not sure about this one: http://www.autodetailingsolutions.ne...lish-8-oz.html |
Nice list! I actually bought that wash mitt, drying towel, and a pack of microfiber towels from microfiber tech. Some good stuff. Also bought some ONR and the Optimum car wash.
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What is your suggested regiment for people without opticoat? (between the detailing I hope to have you do on my car when I get it) Might be a good idea to make a separate thread for this as I am sure many are interested. |
You would maintain your paint the same way even without opti-coat. Proper washing techniques and quality products will go a long way.
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Following Opti-Coat:
Weekly commercial wand foam and rinse, dry and application of Opti-Guard Instant Detailer is the trick: Use of microfiber waffle towels for drying and microfiber pads for application is essential. Invisible Glass is a good product, particularly in the foaming can. Cleaning the glass first with a paper towel, then again with a pad and/or towel is quick and gives best results. For the difficult lower part of the rear window try wrapping a double layer of microfiber towel over the end of a nylon spatula, holding the excess material in your hand against the handle while working to the bottom of the glass. Tire/wheel cleaner and dresser is just a once a month thing for me, but I'm a low mileage driver. |
Make sure you don't get the invisible glass on the paint. Strips wax right off. I would imagine it cuts into opti-coat too.
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Prima makes the best window cleaner I've tried, but I can't remember the name of it for the life of me lol. The trick to have streak free window is to use 2 towels, one for the initial wipe and the other for final buffing.
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:party0030: |
actually, the proper method is the three (3) bucket method. this prevents any dirt/grime from the wheels, which are always the dirtiest parts of the car, from getting onto your paint.
1. strictly for wheels 2. shampoo only 3. rinse water if you can get past the blatant product promotion, this video is quite helpful [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X0Sqi1lAj1A&list=PL96D52AF54166C886&index= 1&feature=plpp_video"]Audi R8 BLACKBIRD: Basic Car Wash Techniques - DRIVE CLEAN - YouTube[/ame] |
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I never understood the 3 bucket method... you're using a wheel brush to clean the wheels.... and most likely rinsing the brush after each wheel, if it doesn't touch paint then why? I see it as a scheme to suck out more money from consumers/hobbyists/enthusiasts. If that was the case you might as well have a 4th bucket for the lower panels of the car too... and triple grit guard it while you're using a 4th bucket... lol. I have seen people use double grit guard though, I suppose for the peace of mind
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Have you ever heard of Ammo NYC mike, there's so many new products...Aero Products, Ammo, Garry Dean's.... |
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Any suggestions on alternatives for the Meguiars Hyper Wash? I dont want to buy such a large amount in case I'm not happy with it.
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Meg's Hyper Wash dilutes 1 oz to 5 gallons or something along that line. very very little is needed to wash the vehicle. it is a gentle soap as well. |
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Bump back to the top, please sticky!
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Gave in and ordered a few of these items. I currently have a microfiber mitt but its not quite of the same style (much less pronounced, smaller little extensions coming out of it). If that makes sense at all.
How big of a deal is this? Probably looking to wash my car again in the next 1-1.5 weeks. Just like it shiny! |
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Oh and don't forget I cheat by using a pressure washer and foam cannon, lol. |
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What sort of pressure washer and foam cannon do you use? |
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Foam cannon I use this one called Auto Glos, forum member and fellow detailer autoaesthetica is the one who carries it. |
Please note* that all products that Mike has listed above can be purchased at autoaesthetica, he is a user on this forum. Please PM him, he ships throughout the US and in Canada.
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Thanks. |
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http://www.pwmall.com/p-139832-bay_k...ing-brass.aspx You'll need this as well http://www.pwmall.com/p-133176-14075...ple-brass.aspx |
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The faux sheepskin mitt he uses marrs the snot out of medium and soft paints - its acrylic, but I would be willing to bet he sells this with this line. The other thing not mentioned is the fact that regular sealant wax users will probably have a shorter life of protection with the foam gun. Think about it, soaps are designed to remove dirt and oil. Wax is a lipid by nature. Constant hand washing over time removes body oil and dries your hands - same idea but with non living things. Its not a new practice to use a QD or a spray wax to avoid water spotting - OC/OG coated or not, you guys should be using a quality QD to add slickness to the paint while drying. Though I would be very carefull driving around the block after drying, you will be rewiping a street dusted car which in some ways may not be the best idea... |
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What this does is it knocks loose and takes down majority of the dirt, thus reducing the chance of marring and swirling up the paint during the actual 2 bucket method (It also allows me to get a little sloppier with my 2BM technique), that's why I said I "cheat" |
Mike, car was scratched (see thread http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12827 )
Any recommendations. It does not look too deep and perhaps didn't mess up the full depth of the opticoat. |
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Thanks for the terrific list, Mike. Will be trying this after I get my opticoat installed
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Would you guys like me to just build maintenance product kits that WE KNOW work perfectly with subaru and toyota vehicles for your aftercare?(Both coated and non coated)
Interior and Exterior Kits? Say the word - and I can build them for you guys. |
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