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2017 BRZ VS Current BRZ
Hey all! First post on here, thought I would wait till I had something really good to ask! Lol
So with word of the 2017 BRZ facelift finally coming down from Subaru, what are your thoughts on getting a new 2016 or new 2017? What would sway your opinion one way or another? Also, as far as performance goes, how do you think the engine will respond to the mods and bolt ons that are on the current BRZs? Do you think we will see similar gains to the fantastic results that UEL headers and tunes have brought to the cars? I don't even have the car yet, but I've already started planning what I want to do once I drive it around stock for a while, and I'd like your opinions on how you think the new engine will respond. And while we are talking performance, do you think the engines will respond similarly to FI? I know it's the same FA20 engine, but new parts like valves and intake manifolds and all that can potentially change the outcome. And what are some of the positives and negatives of the 2017's in your eyes? The facelift topic has had a lot of opinions discussed, but what are some more things that haven't been touched on a whole lot? Been following the community for quite a while, and I must say that it has been very informative and interesting, and I can't wait to own a BRZ very soon!! |
Personally I would hold out for the 2017 Limited or Track Package upgrade in the Winter.
I like having the latest and greatest so I would go all in and get the Track Package. If you're on a budget, get a 2016 Limited but I'm not expecting big price cuts. In terms of bolt ons, I don't think it will make much of a difference when comparing model years. I'm expecting really no "noticeable" difference for FI. Some perceived butt-dinos might say otherwise. Im not a huge fan of facelift models years because they normally have about 2-3 years max before a new model generation. If I wanted something now, I would just get the latest Model Year available or wait for next generation. I enjoy getting the first MY1 or MY2 as I normally lease or sell my cars once the new generation is available (if I like it). 2017: Really the only things I don't care for much is the Dash Trim around the Deck and the Tail Lights but the Pros outweigh the cons for me. FYI the a few things I f*cking hate about the BRZ/FRS 1) Flywheel Rattle (Manual Models) 2) Creaking panels (fixable) 3) Power (Needs a bit more [50hp]) Hope this helps, |
Definitely appreciate the opinion!
As far as what I'm looking for, I'm planning to get a Limited manual model. As much as I'd like to have the performance package, I've been saving for this car for a while, and the itch is starting to kill me 😂😂 Plus, I would like to track the car, but I probably won't be there every weekend, or even month lol, so the brembos and dampers don't really appeal for me at the moment (even though they are brembos). May just have add them later on down the line. Sent from my SM-N915T using Tapatalk |
I like the new dashboard, that's about it. I feel like the BRZ needs a more techy interior.
The Brembo option is probably overpriced and cheaper to get it done aftermarket. They tried charging me $500 for tint when local shops charge like 300. I do like the new headlights, but I can get that done aftermarket/myself too. |
Everything new on the car looks great. In reality, you have to ask yourself:
- Do I want a 4.3 final drive with revised ratios because I want better acceleration? Or do I want to replicate this myself with an aftermarket 4.3 final drive? - What is 5HP and (assuming) no torque dip worth to me? - Aftermarket parts are great, but will I mod the engine? If so, 2017 improvements are pretty much moot from a car purchase POV. - Nice gauge cluster, but how am I going to use it? Same with the head unit, am I keeping it stock or swapping it out? - "Track mode" is pretty much the same as what we have now with higher threshold. Is it worth it? Or can I live with doing pedal dance? All the other stuff are a toss-up. You just have to ask yourself: BRZ Limited is close to $30k. Performance package will be at least $34-35k USD. Is the price premium worth it? Easiest comparison is the old 350Z with the "Track Edition". It was a 350Z Enthusiast Edition with essentially larger wheels, better tires, and a Brembo brake setup for several thousands more. -alex |
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Is a 4.3 final drive confirmed? I don't recall seeing that anywhere |
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What is confirmed is revised gear ratios in the transmission. Without a change in the FD ratio, this will be useless and detrimental to the current EPA mileage rating, something neither Subaru nor Toyota want to mess with given the MPG scandal plaguing some of the Japanese car makers. -alex |
2017 model will be better comparing to the current brz model. If you don't want to modify yourself, then choose the 2017 model. Otherwise, find a good deal of a new 2016 model and do the changes yourself. You'll be surprised how much this car can get better even with simple changes (not including ecu, headers, fi etc.).
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Without pricing, it would be incredibly hard to make a recommendation / justification. Not only is the 2017 likely to be more expensive (dramatically so with the Performance Package), but dealers will be more motivated to get rid of the 2016 BRZs (like mine was) and discount them. You could end up saving a LOT of money with a 2016 for what would likely not be very significant upgrades in the grand scheme of things (far less than the difference between the 2015 Camaro and the 2016 Camaro for instance).
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Will be interesting to see a dyno comparison of 2016 motor vs. 2017 motor. Yes, only 5HP peak change but maybe the area under the curve is different and maybe that crazy torque dip has been fixed?!
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Also interested if they changed actual components in the engine/exhaust. Or are all part # the same? |
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Thanks everyone for the replies! I think this will be beneficial to anyone who may be in my shoes as well, as far as deciding whether to wait or not.
Everybody seems to think that there won't be a dramatic increase in price for the base and limited models. The track package, however, will be pretty high like mav1178 said. I really like all the changes, other than the steering wheel. I'd prefer the plain steering wheel for a car like this, but that's why there's aftermarket steering wheels. All the other changes are positives in my eyes. My only concern was that once you start messing with the engine, things start to change as far as the way current mods affect performance. I've been planning the headers, exhaust and tune that I want to get with the car next year, but if I go with the 2017, I'd like to see the same gains that nearly everyone else has. P.S. nothing to do with the topic, but I plan on buying in August, so that's why I'm a little torn between getting a steal on a 2016, or waiting for the 2017 with the new goodies, which is what I'm leaning towards right now. Sent from my SM-N915T using Tapatalk |
i like new performance package but like others said, it's over-priced
if i dont mod anything, i would go with 2017 but i would try to get killer deal on 2015-2016 models. i like new 4.3 FD and prefer older tachometer |
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I see no reason why anyone with the money would wait to get a higher-priced 2017 if you can score a deal on 2016 sitting on a dealer's lot right now. There is nothing the 2017 model offers that is going to drastically change the driving experience. It's just a very mild mid-generation refresh. Honestly, it's not like the current cars aren't already great machines. |
Also consider it's a Subaru and you're likely going to be able to swap in 2017+ parts to older 2013-2016 models to upgrade later on in the future when they start to show up in the junk yard.
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Once you get the car, you will begin look at a bunch of cosmetic mods.
For example, the new Valenti Revo Taillights, new rims/tires/wheels, and things that will boost the HP/Torque of the car. The new "upgrades" isn't even close to being impressive. You can get the same increase in power by swapping out single pieces, which is basically what they did. If I were you, I'd take the 2016 at a good discounted price and then mod it with the money you saved by not taking the 2017. The only thing that tore me was the dashboards update. I always felt the BRZ lacked technology in the interior and although that dashboard shit is useless to me, it's still "technologically improved." If you don't care much for that, I'd take the 2016. Oh and depends if you like the current BRZs front bumper/grill or the new one. |
As odd as it looks, the new intrusment panel is kind of appealing to me.
I'm lucky enough that either way I go, I can get a good price on one, whether it's a 2016 or 2017. I just don't want to get a 2016 and then regret the decision for the small updates, though I doubt that would happen. Just torn right now between the 2016 and waiting a month for a 2017!!! Sent from my SM-N915T using Tapatalk |
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I ordered my 2016 BRZ in October or 2015, I got in 2016 March. But if you get the 2016, you'll get it right off the lot or at most a week for them to find one in the area. Order the 2017 and it might come in the middle of Winter, and then you're fucked. (If you have winter in your area) |
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But we'll have to wait and see. Definitely wouldn't want to wait until December or January just to get this car honestly. |
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If you are going to mod and want to get what we can get out of the current car, then don't bother with a 2017. If you want to drive the car as-is and maximize your enjoyment out of it, get a 2017 as it has improvements over the current car. You already answered your own question... unless you are modding for the sake of modding, and don't even know what you are trying to fix on a car you have yet to own. -alex |
not worth it. just get a clean used one. its 99% the same car and costs several thousands less.
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I'd like to drive the car stock for a while and enjoy it in its natural form for a while. But I have done extensive research about the car, and found that the biggest gripe is the torque dip in the 3000-4500 RPM range. I wouldn't mind a 2016. I've almost bought one multiple times lately. But as the time frame that I'm planning to buy in lines up with the release of the new model, I am stuck with a dilemma. |
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I'll tell you this: I know of the torque dip and I have no problem driving it flat-out on the track with stock headers and stock ECU tune. To each their own, just don't mod for the sake of modding. -alex |
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And mods must be purposeful and tasteful. All other mods are considered "rice." Lolz |
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As for mods, some people just don't modify the engine as much as others. If you need that straight line, planted-in-your-seats acceleration, no amount of modding will solve that problem for you. People these days truly have no appreciation for what this car gives you. 15 years ago you can buy a DC2 Integra Type-R that gives you wonderful acceleration out of a 2.0L 200HP FWD car... but makes the road noise and creature comforts of the FRS/BRZ feel like a luxury car. Again: mod to address an issue or deficiency to you. Don't mod just because you read about some torque dip. -alex |
Thanks for the insight. I'm not looking for blindingly fast straight line speed. A bunch of my buddies are all about, "Who can pull the hardest on the freeway??" I'd rather cruise the back roads and canyons any day.
I'm looking forward to the simplicity of the vehicle and the reward of driving it rather than the car doing all of it for you. I would rather have something light and nimble than have a car that's fast but feels like a boat. Sent from my SM-N915T using Tapatalk |
Go test drive the current one first. If you need to get moving just downshift and rev it out. If you like to drive lazy then there is no replacement for displacement.
This kind of midrange torque dip is nothing new, even Porsches have that. Myself I went with a little higher clamping pressure clutch and clutch cover setup, that alone gave me a better feel of acceleration. |
I've test drove the current model a couple times, and I really, really enjoyed every second of it. And I'm looking for as much driving engagement as possible.
Let me throw this out there. I know we can play the what if game all day and all night, but if the 2016 and 2017 cost the exact same amount, which would you take and why? Sent from my SM-N915T using Tapatalk |
While running up the revs is often fun, having some mid-range grunt has its advantages - you don't have to have the car screaming like a banshee and attracting unwanted attention in order to make a quick pass in dense traffic.
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I think because the factory has already started producing the 2017 cars ("E" chassis) it would be impossible to order a 2016 ("D" chassis).
I think someone already posted that Subaru started taking orders for the new car at the beginning of this month. The dealer probably just ask for a deposit to be in line even if nothing is finalized yet. If price is no object I would take a 2017 with Performance Pack, get the best base as possible. |
Wait for the magazine reviews at least and see what the verdict is.
Also, keep in mind that buying a first year refresh could have issues like when the MY13s came out. You might have more quirks with your car than the MY18 or MY19. It should all be covered under warranty though. Just don't get disappointed if they announce something even better a year after you get your car. |
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