Code P000d Toyota information
 

My FRS threw the P000d code with a couple P0024 so it's going in to the Toyota dealer to get fixed, hopefully under warranty. I know Subaru has a TSB out for this problem but I doubt the guys at the Toyota dealer will care. So does anyone know the TSB number for Toyota? I want to be able to cite the TSB to help avoid warranty issues.

Update. That's has no TSB for this and if you are tuned, they will not warranty. Low battery voltage may have caused this problem, I'll be sure in the next couple days

their is subaru tsb its known problem http://www.ft86club.com/forums/attac...0&d=1352490977


did you tell them you had tune ? or are you turbo ?

even then they should still warantee a known issue like cam actuators as its difficult to see how even a turbo would contribute to the problem unless its melted wiring or something. but they will likely give you a hard time

There is a Subaru tsb but no Toyota one so they don't care. No turbo but since the cam timing is changed that's what caused the problem. Also they are physically incapable of working on the car, even outside warranty, unless it's stock...

No they are saying they don't want to work on your car.

Plenty of dealers work on modified cars.

Yup. I've already moved on. It's looking like low voltage may have been the cause all along

if its just header and tune, put beck stock header flash stock tune and send it in
its highly unlikely they will work out it has a tune unless you tell them or its plainly obvious due turbo\sc.

plenty of dealers work on modded cars, they could refuse if mods physicaly interfere with them gaining access or charge you extra for the extra time it takes though.

They could probably refuse on safety grounds if their uncomfortable with stuff like electric supercharger high capacity batteries and wiring etc.

I'm on headers and e85. If I have more problems I'll go to the Subaru dealer

Update! Code is back, battery didn't fix it. I now have codes for both banks: p0014, p0024 p000b, p000d. The local Subaru dealer is willing to throw parts at it but claim their diagnostic equipment won't give them reliable information because of the tune.

Last time I changed my oil I put 5w30 in(amsoil gave me the wrong stuff and I didn't realize till it was too late). Could the decrease in viscosity cause "blocked" oil passages? Anyone else have a fix here? Looks like the early adopters of the FRS had these same issues. Some got new cam sprockets, some new sprockets and ECUs. New actuators are 200$ each control valves are 75$. Should I replace a valve and see if that fixes it, then move up to actuator? Labor looks intensive for the actuator

that oil weight will be fine as long as it was quality full synthetic SN rated. been running that or 10w30 for last 3 years

Techstream will connect fine even if car tuned.

yes tune will alter the cam timing from stock, but what their looking for is a difference between what the ecu commands and what the cam actuator does or the sensor thinks the actuator has done.

if it was me i would be bending over backwards to keep them happy, even if that ment flashing back stock tune. That cam issue is difficukt to fix and isolate and can be a combination of expensive assemblies like actuators cam sprokets sensors oil control valves and possibly even the ecu itself. These bits can be worth thousands help them out as much as you can

that oil viscosity wont be a problem

+1 to what Steve said. Your 5w30 didn't do it. Neither did your tune but put it back to stock anyhow.

Yeah, +1 to this too.

If oil doesn't fix it then I'm going to replace the oil regulator valves cuz that's easy and next on the list. Then I'll go back to stock do they can work on it. Oil viscosity "shouldn't"be the cause but I gotta rule it out

Mate check out this thread

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=104695

this guy is pretty smart and good with diagnostics etc , its just a hard fault

put it to stock and let the dealer do it under warantee, save yourself a lot of hassle, worth it even if you have to pay to get it fkashed to stock

Already shot down for warranty service

what about back to stock and try different dealer ?

I suppose that could work. How does Toyota not keep track of this stuff?

note sure mate, privacy laws might stop it

I'll give it a shot if this doesn't work. I'll keep you guys posted, thanks for the replies

Did you ever get your car fixed?

Dealer has worked on my car a few times to fix the p000b code. I had the same issue. full NA bolt-ons with tune. I reverted back to stock with base tune and the code came back on.. they have currently had my car for a week trying to fix. :-P

Double post

Yes but you're not gonna like it... dealers story was that I spun a bearing which contaminated the oil which plugged the cam control valves, which locked in a "low oil pressure" alarm in to the ecu. Fix: new short block, all cam sprockets/actuators and control valves replaced, new ecu. I'm not sure if the bearing spun first or a valve went bad and starved a bearing. Total time for repair 5 weeks with a regional technician being called in from Kansas city for 2 weeks.

For reference, I had a thread going about cam timing. Same issues, but I had no CEL.

I went ahead with replacement of all 4 cam actuators. Turns out, 3 of the 4 were broken, but not "enough" to throw a cell.

Likely, either your cam sprocket spring has broken and/or an internal lock/pin is broken.

Is yours a 2013? This issue seems to happen most commonly in the 2013. Subaru/Toyota released a revised part number in 2014.

They're saying somehow magically the metal particles made it past your oil filter yet were big enough to jam your VVT mechanism? :bs:

The only way I could see it working that way is if the oil traveled past the crank to the cam actuators, then the filter. It was covered under warranty so it doesn't matter to me I suppose.

Mine was a 2013

Yeah, but it doesn't work that way. Fresh oil washes through the journals and drips straight to the pan. Glad it was warrantied but it was chickenshit of them to feed you a line like that.

Once I heard a bad cam valve would starve the crank I pretty well figured that was what happened and they were idiots/liars. It did take them 5 weeks to fix it after all...

Yup. That's most likely how it went down.