Need feedback on JRZ RS Double vs JRZ RS1 vs Tein SRC
 

Interested in your impressions if you are an advanced driver, if you use(d) either of them on track and if you have a preference.
Please PM me if you've had any issues or concerns about either of these, including if something about them turned you against them in your research.
Currently running Ohlins R&T with custom springs and valving and like them very much for HPDE. Looking for potential upgrade.

Thanks

I ask that anyone who answers this please post in here instead of PM-ing. I am 99.9999% set on the Tein SRC's, when I get finally get off my wallet, but would love to hear more real-world experiences. There is an absurd amount of information on how to slam your car but not enough info out there on proper competition coilovers.

Interested in seeing the responses here as well. Suspension is my next area to mod.

@CSG Mike

We've run JRZ quite a bit and helped with the initial specs. We did a brief write up on the RS1 way back. No experience with the Teins though. I'll see if I can get Myles in here to comment.

What's the rest of your set-up like? Tire choice? Cage? Shock tuning experience?

- Andrew

What's wrong with the Ohlins?

I think I'd take the dampers with dynos and known quantities and improve on that before jumping on a totally unknown train and likely ending up having to go through the same effort and expense to dial in the Tein's, JRZ's, or something else.

More money doesn't always equal better performance or quality. Nobody is cheating physics, not even when you shell out >$7k for Penske's, it's still a piston moving through fluid.

HPDE only, 35+ track/ax days over 5 years, intermediate-advanced (HPDE3 in NASA) group, 235/40-17 Toyo RR on RPF1, Whiteline suspension reinforcements, -3.5f/-2.5r camber, no cage, no shock tuning experience or desire to spend too much time on it. Like simplicity of single adjustables but wouldn't mind double adjustable since it appears to be worth it with quality dampers, for as long as I was given good starting values for double adjustables and direction for adjustments.


Regardless of what I get, I will keep Ohlins as spares and will have them resprung to 500lb front/600lb rear and revalved the next time they get serviced. It takes around $1k to service Ohlins shocks and probably around 30+ hours of tracking before they need service. Would appreciate some info about serviceability of the three dampers in the title.


Thanks

Nothing wrong with Ohlins, evaluating upgrade options and want two track sets so I have a spare.

30 hours for a refresh? That seems abnormally low. That's like ~12-15 track weekends depending on who you run with.

Gotcha.

The JRZ RS1 are a great single and IMO have a sizable edge over Ohlins on track. We just found them to have superior valving...especially on the compression side. More low speed, more digressive.

But I'd say a 2 way such as the JRZ RS2 or RS Pro would make more sense for you though. If you're set on keeping the Ohlins as a back up, getting something with a little more flexibility (i.e. something with more potential) as your primary set of dampers would be much more worthwhile in the long run. The 2 way JRZs (espically RS Pro) are a fairly serious set of dampers but are still relatively easily approachable/tunable and definitely streetable. You can do a lot with them...HPDE to time trials to wheel2wheel racing. And support stateside is awesome.

We've had mixed results with revalved Ohlins depending on who's doing the revalve, but either way they still have limitations. JRZ's valving philosophy just works really well. Good digressive compression valving to control unsprung weight, "platform", and not too excessive rebound. Keeps the car stable, flat, compliant, and easy to drive fast.

Hope that helps. Send me a message if you'd like to chat or give us a call to talk to Myles.

- Andrew

@dp1 Danko, give me a call when you'er out of your meeting.

It is what it is, probably around 30-50 track hours, depending on few variables. To me it translates to once per year.

As a data point, I sent my MCS 2-way remotes in for rebuild this winter after 30K miles on the street plus auto-x runs. They didn't feel any different than when they were new, but I just wanted to have the internals checked. MCS said that the shocks looked great inside and didn't need to be rebuilt. Since they had them apart already, I had MCS refresh all of them anyway.


Next time I go to at least 60K or when something feels off. Also the turnaround between shipping the shocks out and getting them back was one week.

Ordered JRZ RS TWO from CSG after lengthy discussion with @CSG Mike. Much appreciate all replies though it appears that few run these...unless they missed this post. Will get Ohlins rebuilt/resprung to 500lb/600lb and revalved, then swap at the end of each season when the used set gets serviced.

I'm going to guess the price is outside the normal range for folks that make as lot of noise about their purchase... And fewer would have had the comparison you sought. Look forward to impressions. I have maybe 3500 miles and 16 AutoX events on the Teins. I'm reasonably happy with them, but suspect you do get more for your money as you spend more. :)

Great feedback, thank you. I book track events before the season starts and it's hard for me to make up lost time. Also I could lose as much as I pay for service or more if something goes wrong during the busy track season. I've been there ;)

All the best

@dp1

A quick question for you. I used the Ohlins R&T for a while with 350F/425R Eibach springs. With this setup, the rear of the car sat higher due to the increase in spring rate. When you go to 500lb front/600lb rear, what springs will you use? Are there shorter springs which fit?

I'm currently running the TEIN SRC coilovers. But like you, it would be nice to have a second set of coilovers to switch out to. I'd also like to send in the Ohlins for a rebuild and revalve to handle a higher spring rate.

Need feedback on JRZ RS Double vs JRZ RS1 vs Tein SRC
 

Hi, I'm using Eibach 375f/425r. Ohlins service tech ordered and installed them for me during last service. I would recommend reaching out to them. I'm at a racetrack now and I just realized that I've been a couple of clicks too soft before...big difference between-12 and -10. I wonder if 425f/500r or 500f/600r would be more optimal for Ohlins track use...if somebody can chime in, please...

Pics show current gap (resprung Ohlins)http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...a1d5f3506a.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...06f3504fa1.jpg

You can independently adjust height. Keep in mind that with a stiffer spring, you will have overall less bump and droop stroke, since you have less spring articulation. The major challenge with the Ohlins is the limited range of height adjustment int he rear...

@ImperiousRex has experience with the JRZ RS(2) and Tein SRC on track...

I went from ohlins to jrz and our cars seem very similar. We better become friends and start trading notes.

Hello friend :)

I'll pm you

I'm running JRZ RS Pro also. Great coilovers but I haven't tried anything else for the FRS. I had SRC on my s2000 but it's a different platform.

Here's our brief write up on the JRZ RS dampers we tested for them way back in 2012:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11759

Myles did a LOT more with them than what's in that thread. :)

- Andrew

Cool, and you're one step up with external canisters on the Pro. I talked to several people on the racetrack about JRZ and everyone raved about them though nobody has them on a twin. Not sure if the range of clicks is the same bw TWO and Pro lines - would like to exchange notes about cursory settings for street and track as I'm still learning about 2-way adjustability. Thanks

I'm still trying to figure this out myself. It's been a few track days but I think I'm getting closer.

To echo what Kristo said, I had the second set of MCS DA shocks made for our cars and they have been on my car for 3+ years now. They still feel the same now after 20K street miles, lots of autocrosses, and track days. I'm taking mine off tonight to get refreshed and revalved for stiffer springs in the future. Turnaround again should be maybe two weeks. They aren't cheap but neither are the other options mentioned. The J in JRZ is the one who started Moton/MCS btw.

Of those of you who use(d) JRZ RC doubles, what springs/sways/damper settings do you use track vs street, out of 14 clicks for compression and 24 clicks for rebound?

For example, for front springs (~500lb/ft or 9kg/mm) + rear springs (~600 lb/ft or 11 kg/mm), JRZ recommends below settings as a starting point for street and track.
First go full clockwise to full soft, then go counterclockwise to the first groove/click - the starting/0 point - then stiffen by going further counterclockwise for a specified number of clicks. In other words, C6 below means it refers to the compression knob and once you get to full clockwise/soft, go counterclockwise and stop at the 7th groove/click (fist click is 0 then 6 more from there).

Street Front C6R8
Street Rear C4R5
Track Front C8R12
Track Rear C7R8

I understand that rough surface at Sebring will benefit from different settings than a brand new smooth surface at Watkins Glen. I have more to read up on, from resources shared by @CSG Mike and web pages like http://www.renntrack.com/forums/show...e-As-requested, https://rideapart.com/articles/suspe...ession-damping, http://www.hyperracing.com/pages/tec...y_no_more.aspx, etc.

Please PM me if you prefer to keep your settings private, thank you.

Just have ken set up your car, if he can manage to not spin out :bellyroll:

Or I can do it.

On my adjustable setups (motorcycle and car), I start with the adjusters in the middle, spend some time getting comfortable, then analyze what the car is doing that I want to correct from there.

Ken will die. We'll be at Buttonwillow on 5/28.

@dp1, @enivid has also gone from Ohlins to JRZ. He may able to shed some light...

Thanks! I've been in touch with @enivid and he's been kind to shed light. Much respect for his TT experience and happy for his lower lap times with JRZs :)

He's been playing with the adjustments, but even with everything out of whack, he was STILL 2 seconds faster than his best time on the Ohlins. :eyebulge:

His latest lap time is 6 seconds faster than his best on the Ohlins, on a 100 second lap.

He's also on the same 9k/11k that we got for you, which did have a bit of a learning curve from the understeery biased Ohlins.

Thanks...good times...bye bye comfy understeer...I can see busy hands (in the corners) in my future :)

Quick hands, quick driver.

We're 50 emails deep already. He's my new best friend.

Need feedback on JRZ RS Double vs JRZ RS1 vs Tein SRC
 

Recommended settings for JRZ RS double adjustable dampers, out of 14 clicks for compression and 24 clicks for rebound.

These settings from JRZ USA are the starting points for 9k (~500lb) front and 11k (~600lb) rear springs, so ask your vendor or JRZ USA how to go about fine tuning from here on. I bought these through CSG and they gave me recommendations for initial settings (not the same as below) and instructions on how to adjust from baselines based on observed behavior.

First go full clockwise to full soft, then go counterclockwise to the first groove/click - the starting/0 point - then stiffen by going further counterclockwise for a specified number of clicks. Stop at the count of the last groove/click. In other words, C6 below means it refers to the compression knob and once you get to full clockwise/soft, go counterclockwise and stop at the 7th groove/click (fist click is 0 then 6 more from there).
- Street Front C6/R8
- Street Rear C4/R5
- Track Front C8/R12
- Track Rear C7/R8

Please post your settings when you've dialed them in to your liking, and note spring rates if different and sway rates if not stock. Thanks

Need feedback on JRZ RS Double vs JRZ RS1 vs Tein SRC
 

Anyone knows height of the front vs rear springs on JRZ RS double adjustables? Just the main springs without helper springs. Is it 6" front and 4" rear? @CSG Mike?

That is correct for your setup; use the helper springs in the rear.