Car Won't Shut Off!
 

Weirdest thing happened yesterday. I pull over to the side of the road (actually to check on a stray dog that looked like he had a broken leg), and I turn the key off. I get out of the car and it sounds like its still running....and it is! I take the key totally out of the ignition and it is STILL RUNNING. The digitial odometer and MPH go blank and I can still drive the car without the key in the igninition. I start driving and the engine light comes on.. I plug in my scanner and it says "lost communication with vehicle dynamics". I erased the code and then it felt like the throttle as a "dead spot" when pulling out - similar to when I first flashed OFT and car was learning. I thought maybe plugging it it messed with my tune so I reflashed to Stage 2 UEL. Maybe it needs to relearn.... Anyone else have anything like this happen?

Thats weird, I am gonna subscribe to see the out come of this. I wonder if some of your computers lost connection with each other or something..

Screw the car, what happen to the stray dog? Did you take care of it? Called Animal Service? Subscribed to learn more about the dog.

Yeah once I was driving and saw doggie get hit by car then semi. He was yelping and barking in the middle of the street, so I pulled over to try to help. He had injuries beyond repair so I got my wheel crow bar, said a few words and finished the job. Then moved body to corner of sidewalk and called local animal control. Took them 40min to get there. Imagine if I would have left the dog there chocking on his own blood. I love dogs. It was painful to give em a push, but humane imo.


Now I've never had issues with petrol engines not shutting off, only diesel. Usually a ecu reflash fixed it.

I tried to get closer and then a lady came out of her trailer (probably 100 yards off) and called the dog. He limped home however she didn't seem too concerned? I got out of there before she tried to blame me for hitting the dog.... who knows what people will do these days..

Isnt there a recall for this? I believe it was for the Automatics.

Okay I have to clear the air Packofcrows....is that you in your profile picture? Because that does not look like a gearhead who would wack a dog in the middle of the street (humanely or otherwise).

I have the manual....haven't heard of any recall? It was the strangest thing though..

Oh well the automatics had a recall because you could take the key out with the car still on and in drive.

Is the car lowered a lot? As for the dead spot that's pretty typical after clearing the ecu, the ecu is trying to re-learn the throttle plate position right after you clear it.

That's exactly what happened.... I should reflash to stock and take her down to the stealership and see what the deal is maybe? Or is there a better way to find recalls

Never hurts to call and ask a dealership about any recalls for your vehicle.

Never heard of this before either... I'd say talk to the dealer or Toyota directly but you flashed with OFT :|

Lowerd an inch on Eibach Pro.. And would erasing a trouble code be like "clearing the ecu"

Yeah any time you erase a code, clear the ecu or take the battery off for more than a minute or two the ecu will need to relearn the throttle, so that part is normal.

I don't believe the manual has the connector in question mentioned in the recall it's in the foot well, also all the engine lights would stay on when the issue occured

:respekt: humanity restored.

Reminds me of back-in-the-day ..... late one night, while on maneuvers in the German countryside, my jeep driver hit a wild hog. The damn thing was laying in the ditch squealing, so I told my driver to take his M-14 and put it out of its misery.

He had his selector lever on full automatic and emptied the whole damn clip into the hog. What a mess that made! I admonished him for using too much ammunition ...... he said he just wanted to make sure it was dead.

About that time, a Forestmeister pulled up behind us with his little blue light flashing. Screw it, I was not about to try to explain what really happened ....... I figured he would tag us for hunting wild boar.

So, I ordered my jeep driver to take off through the woods, with the forestmeister in hot pursuit, in his little VW wagon.

Yep, we outran him .........:burnrubber:


What was this thread about .......... :iono:


humfrz

Hum!!!!! You know those guys never give up! Right now there is some old guy in Germany franticly checking flights to Washington. He has an outstanding poaching ticket for 20DM and somebody is going to pay it.

hmmmm........maybe I should have had my driver shoot him, after he reloaded...... :iono:


humfrz

Hard to work out what going on but


1. Tune is written to ecu flash memory and is not erased or altered if battery flattened or ecu reset or anything else. Then only way to alter or erase a "tune" is to flash in a new one.


2. You will get error codes sometimes if you plug/unplug devices including the OFT, Bluetooth adapters etc. into the cars OBD port (or the cable falls out or is loose or your obd port is worn). This is because the obd port is on the CAN buss which most of the cars control units including the ECU VSC Imobiliser and other units communicate on. Plugging/unplugging devices into the obd port while car is on can momentarily interrupt these communications causing weird stuff to happen and errors codes to be logged and sometimes cause ECU to go into limp home mode.


3. If you reflash or reset ecu with battery removal, or clear error codes with obd scanner this will effectively reset ecu and clear learned parameters such as knock correction table, learned fueling info, throttle and cam position sensor calibration ect, this may make the car feel sluggish or "different" for a few drive cycles. It does not however effect the "tune" stored in the flash memory, just erases the learned parameters in the RAM area of the ecu or other control modules.

I just changed my battery and let the car idle for 5mins then drove it around. Stopped at store then when I re-started the car and drove around for few mins, I went into WOT with boost 10-11psi where the car sputtered and lost power. I tried it again and same thing. Is this related the ECU reset and learning process?

The car was sitting for a few weeks, but never did this before.

that sounds like overboost failsafe activated and shut off power

That’s what I initially thought, but it seems weird that it never did it before the battery change. All my EcuTek maps and Boost Controller settings are the same.

Hey I know this is an old thread and I dont post in here often but I am having the same problem with my car not shutting off when I turn the key off. Only happens after at least a 30 min drive.

Throwing codes U0122 lost control with vehical dynamic control, P0463 fuel level sensor A high, and P0420 for my absence of my pre cat but that has been on and off intermittently for 3 years since I put the borla header on.

I kill the car by stalling it out since it's a manual. Once I turn it on again it will turn off perfectly fine and no codes. After a 30 min or more drive and I try to shut it off same problem traction control light comes on and it starts throwing codes.

I thought at first the alternator was backfeeding. Replaced the alternator and still having issues. Next I was planning on checking the ignition switch.

I also do have a sync up and drive device from t mobile plugged into my obd2 port. It monitors your car if there is a break in, has a GPS tracker and shows you engine codes. Next step also is unplug it and go for a drive and see if I still have the issue.

Here is a list of all mods to the car.


2013 frs
Rsenthalpy tune
Borla Uel header
Cat back
Coilovers, rear upper control arms and rear toe arms
After market radio with small sub and amp

Any advice is appreciated I will keep you guys posted if I figure anything out. Thank you.

You have a tune yet you still get a sporadic P0420? Wouldn't trust that tune at all if someone wasn't smart enough to disable that. Also you threw an alternator at the car without properly diagnosing it?

Also don't go plugging stuff into your OBD2 port like that crap tmobile device or any other device similar to what insurance companies want. You've got a canbus error so I can only assume that you should flash back to a stock tune, disconnect the obd2 device and let the car relearn and see if the issues continue.

Alternator was pretty easy to do that's why I tried it first but I guess I could have saved my time. Yea I pulled that scanner out of my obd2 port hopefully that helps.

As far as my tunner I installed my uel header the night before I got my tune. Check engine light didnt pop up yet. He asked me if I threw a code since he didnt see one.

Go see bob at drift office and get a proper tune.

LOL

I'm sorry, but your car might be possessed! XD