2013 BRZ replacement starter, correct part help
 

Hello. I've been unable to drive my baby due to my issue detailed here. I believe that I may need a new starter. Wanted to know if anyone had the correct part/location for me to order.

Still open to figuring out what the hell is going on with my car. Coils were another option for what may be causing it not to start.

It would be really unusual for the starter to fail on any modern car in only 2-3 years. The last starter I replaced was in 1992 on my 1988 Taurus.

If your car cranks (meaning the starter spins the engine over), then the problem is not the starter

What makes you think its the starter? Take it to a dealer for diagnosis

After reading your other thread, I get the feeling that you would be better off doing what @FRSBRZGT86FAN suggested and take it into a shop/dealer.


humfrz

From your other thread


In short,

On the highway in 4th, heard an odd noise, slow down as I'm making my exit, get down the gears proper to neutral before the light, no power.

All my lights cut on as if I just turned on the car for the electronics only. Same thing continues to happen when I try to start it now. It'll click, the electronics come on, but the engine won't start. No issues this morning driving to work, really not sure what's wrong.




That's very unlikely to be caused by the starter motor.


It likely to be and electrical issue that's caused the engine to shut down.


Best to take it to a shop unless your skilled at diagnostics and have obd scantool and multimeters wiring diagrams.


you would be better off scanning for fault codes via obd port. Might give a clue. and checking fuses and fusible links.


Heard of a couple of cars that had wiring short under bonnet, somewhere round the direct injection wiring loom from memory and it takes out main ecu fuse.



[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ow0EMCBYpOo"]BRZ 2013 won't start - YouTube[/ame]

take to shop and borrow a obd2 reader maybe something will show up. have them take a look :) they'll possibly even quick check for free (try several place, they might give you some inaccurate info)

if some does come up for example starter or alternator or etc call in toyota/scion and have them transfer you to parts department than ask them.

good luck friend

OH for crying out loud get the battery checked properly. Between these two threads the battery was mentioned so many times that I can not figure out why it has been cast aside for other scenarios. Every single symptom points to a bad battery. Trying to boost it once does not constitute a check.
The starter would not come into play with about 90% of the issues described. A $5 meter from any discount shop will tell you the volts and amps and then you can go from there.

Hence the comment to just go to the dealer, with all his/her fiddling around he's sure to blow something out. I wouldn't trust him to work on it anymore

As I find so often here people want to skip the basics and jump to the most extreme of any possible issues/solutions.
Check for codes? Replace starters? And my favourite in this case was the coil. Electrical issues you need to start with battery, move to fuses, onto relays, then to mechanicals and motors. Not to mention that the BRZs have an often discussed issue with batteries dying even if we haven't figured out just why yet.

I've noticed that as well and it doesn't seem like some statistical error. It seems that most of the BR-Zs seem to have more starter/battery issues than the FR-S in the issues section. I've got a feeling it's got to do more with the fact it uses more power in a parked state than the FR-S. It has a different alarm system than the FR-S (in fact it actually has an alarm) as well as the keyless entry fob detection active all the time. I surmise this may cause a bit more extra wear on the battery than the FR-S. Most likely Monograms, 10 Series, and RS 1.0s with the same alarm and key-less entry system should suffer the same issues that would totally narrow it down.

I have been watching this for a year (there is a tread someplace) and the reported issues are 10 to 1 BRZs. Since the FRS outnumbers them by about the same we are looking at a huge variance. I also suspect it is all the goodies on the BRZ creating a parasitic draw that the majority of FRSs are not subject to. Since the battery was probably speced to the FRS system (majority rules) it may not be up to the BRZ demands.

Also the stock Panasonic battery isn't too good, I remember when the car first came out a few people were having issues with the battery only lasting 2-3 years

For such a big heavy battery, it is pretty light duty. IIRC, the CCA rating is only 390. My lawn tractor has more than that.

Not to hijack the thread but since we are on a battery discussion I'm looking to replace my original 2013 Panasonic before the next winter. Any good suggestions? I use to go to Red Tops but that was years ago.

My panasonic battery lasted exactly 3 years...do what tcoat suggested

You guys know that you need to regularly add distilled water into our battery right?

Where did @sftateofmind run off to ....... to buy a starter......:slap:

@sftateofmind just check your car's battery. Here's how:

http://www.aa1car.com/library/battery_runs_down.htm

OR

take it into a shop for them to check.

So, we can put this thread out of it's misery ...... :popcorn:


humfrz

Optima red tops are still the way to go, don't have to worry about distilled water or anything and its a truly maintenance free battery. Also the CCA are almost double the stock panasonic battery so you won't have excessive drains and such.

Thanks...I have had great luck with them in the past and they seen to last for years. Will likely go that route again.

My car was doing the same. It's the battery.
Bought one today. Fixed.

Here is what I would do..make sure your OEM battery is not low on distilled water. If so, add it to the bottom of the filler plugs. Then get a jump but after connecting the jumper cables, let the other car run for 3-4 min while connected. Then try to start your car.


The only thing that worries be about your story is the knock you heard when it died. Hopefully not a major engine issues.

Important note if you are going to fill the batteries and not replace them with maintenance free AGM batteries, you should really only use distilled water if you want the battery to last that much longer

Engine actually died. Should be getting a replacement soon.

Thanks for posting a follow up but would love to hear more details!

How did you come to that conclusion? What exactly is the issue? Are you stock or modified?? (ie boosted?) Is this another case of oil starvation failure? Dealer picking up the cost??

Took it into a shop around here and the guy ran some test. There is a terrible knock from inside the engine and he believes it is dead. I'm considering sending it some where else to have a look as well but that was the diagnoses. He thinks something inside has gone astray.

I'm stock by the way. Could be an oil starvation issue, but I was within milage for my next oil change and none of my lights came on.

Sorry to hear. From what I understand the oil starvation issue and subsequent engine death can happen even with normal oil levels. Some have suspected it is from too much sealant in the engine from the factory blocking proper oil flow.

If you ever get an engine tear down/ rebuild, let us know what they find inside.

Good luck!