Adding Bass to stock system?
 

Hello friends

I can build a gaming pc with my eyes closed but I know nothing about audio components and would like help if possible.

I just basically want to add bass and not break the bank too much, but don't know where to start and don't know which sub is good and what not.

Any guidance, recommendations, anything would be much appreciated.


Thank you.

Your in luck. Now a days you buy good sounding stuff pretty much anywhere. Even Walmart. Example:

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Kicker-PT2...ifier/32983978

Under $200, all you need right there. Well, you'll need an amp kit. Which you can buy it there for $25.
Enough bass to sound nice. All in one box.

Want more of a kick?
[ame]http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007AQ2W6W/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1460293003&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=powered+subwoofe r&dpPl=1&dpID=51hZI-BZ%2B5L&ref=plSrch[/ame]

Hell, just google "powered subwoofer car" or on Amazon

You can go and buy individual parts. But in the end it comes down to how much you want to spend.

Once you pick out one you like post up here. Just avoid cheap brands like Duel and Boss. They work ok, but they tend die quickly.

Say... that Kicker unit from Wal-Mart... You can't stuff it in the space between the rear wheel well and the tail light can you?

I don't think so.

OEM+ makes custom enclosures for that space

Yes but they are quite costly. I was hoping for a less slick but less costly option as I can't/won't spend $1000 on a subwoofer

other options:
http://www.integrityconcepts.net/sci...-products.html
or
http://www.wickedcas.com/product.php...5&cat=0&page=1


theres an MTX option somewhere too

Still more than I'd like to spend but much much better than oem+

This is what I have in my car. Didn't want an elaborate set up, just desired a little more kick. I didn't do this myself, btw! Like you op, I can build a crazy PC setup but a noob when it comes to car audio (which seems really easy after some reading).

I might get a second sub after seeing someone's similar setup at the local meet.

http://i.imgur.com/jl6YmYt.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/GUYN5O1.jpg

$500+ for a sub and enclosure. I guess I might be an audio noob, but I just don't see the worth in spending that much just for a little more bass lol. like the OP, I am looking for a little more kick to the sound system but looking at the price tag is turning me away.

Seems like the self powered generic enclosures will be best bang for the buck. $175 for a sub that I Velcro down or whatever it's much more appealing than $500+ for one that tucks in the corner. If I need space that bad I'll take it out or wedge it in sideways. Im in another thread now where someone is working on enclosures for the rear fenders(where rear speakers are now), and that seems really slick to me. You'd never know they were there

For under $200 sub/amp combos will not be beat. Some how that 12" Rockford powered sub link from Amazon didn't work. But it's 300w. It's a bigger box but it's more of a kick.

Another one you want to take a look at is Pioneer sallow powered subs. It's a bit more price wise with less space but just enough bass. It's only 150w.

The OEM audio +, personally is way too much. Almost the same as the factory sub option.

I have some plans to custom make a sub box that fits in the rear speaker space. Either 8" or 6" subs but eh... I'm too old and fat now. One day when I have a 4 day weekend.

Unfortunately, $500 is the starting point for something decently low distortion and pre-built. Anything less than that and your looking at something with a ton of distortion. For instance, the cheapest subwoofer I would ever use, is about $175 just for the subwoofer alone, no amp no box. That sub will get moderately loud, with low distortion.

Audio is a funny thing, at the lower end, you pretty much get what you pay for. But the higher you get, the more than line gets blurred.


I am truly sorry if I offend anyone here with this statement, but it is a factual truth. Anything under $200 for a subwoofer, box and amp combined, is junk. It just is. Point to any specific set up like this and I can give you a host of reasons why.

It works for me. Price is good but that box is so big...
Checked dims on kicker one and it's bigger... Maybe cuz of the angled face.

Say, Mr. AC, obviously you know more than me and OP... the rockford unit doesn't mention "connectors"... I'd want to be able to easily remove it for autocross and such. Can plug style connectors be easily wired to it?

Well, think about it how much trunk space do you use every day? For me it only sees 4 grocery bags every two weeks. So I have a generic .75ft. cubic box. I still have enough room in the truck. For what ever. If need be it's only 30 seconds to remove it.

If you are stuck bream is a good alternative to bass

What about - http://subaruonlineparts.com/subaru-...er-p-1416.html

Someone else linked that to me in another similar thread. I'd pay a visit to a local Subaru dealer and get a quote for one to be ordered in. It has free shipping.

Big fan of clean OEM/OEM+ installs. Kinda tempted to get one for myself, but sadly the price (with current exchange rates) will push it uncomfortably close to 1k AUD.

I want bass to a stock system as well and have been reading up.

I've already soundproof my interior but it made it worse I think. The door speakers now pack more of a quality punch and the dash and back I can hear but it's worse because I know what I'm missing out on now.

I'm planning on either a 4 channel amp to power doors and sub or a mono channel to power a sub.

Sub I'm looking at is a Sundown E10 which is a 10'' and retails around $120. It's a great entry level sub.

if I just want to add a sub to the car, would the stock amp work? or is there a need for an aftermarket one? I would assume the stock amp is fine since there is an option for a factory subwoofer but maybe it's only to a certain wattage

See my post a few back. That is a factory sub that connects to the factory head unit. They even posted an install guide on the page showing the factory head unit being used.

That sub says it's "powered" under the description so I'm gonna say stock amp is not big enough

Wut????
Must be a UK thing. Or some bad joke I didn't get.


No the stock amp is baby joke of an amp. Barely pushing 50w. Also it's full range, so you'll won't get any decent bass out of it. You need a separate amp. Other wise you'll over heat the stock amp with extra load. It's literally the size of your fist when you take the metal housing off.



Just my 2 cents but, a 4 channel amp is overkill. It would be ok if you had an extra 6" speakers in the rear, but our 3" are just tweeters. Not really worth it unless you upgrade everything
A newer 2 channel amp would do the job. Just make sure it has the option for 3-way mode. That way you can power the doors and the sub with the proper fq cut offs.

Never hear of Sundown must be new or something. But really there is no entry level subs, hell, those pos audio speakers at the local auto part store will sound good enough....with proper installation. Will they sound louder, last for a long time? Nope. But it will work.


You mean that $500 one?

It's really not a big deal to add a sub/amp. Hell you can buy that harness plug so you won't have to tap into the wires. All it is is 5 wires you need to tap into.

And yes I still use my factory head unit.

Actually...

"Subwoofer Kit #H630SCA000 Provides powerful deep bass, and also assists in clean sound reproduction from all vehicle speakers. This is achieved by its integrated 100W amplifier and a passive crossover network. The self-contained unit mounts in the trunk of the vehicle. Manufactured for Subaru of America by Kicker."

http://subarupartspeople.com/product...ubwoofer%20Kit

I even found it cheaper for you :)

I have been wrestling with the same decisions. I want better sound. I have been considering the OEM Audio + system, but without hearing it, I don't think I can bring myself to drop that much cash. Adding a powered sub, or sub/amp combo is the direction I'm leaning.

Here are a couple subs I have been considering...

JL Audio's ACP108LG-W3v3 MicroSub

It's available in powered and non powered versions. There is also a 10" version in an enclosure that's only slightly larger.

The Subaru OEM sub is not even on my radar. I like that it tucks into the corner, but OEM optional subs rarely meet expectations, IMO.
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.
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Sundown has been around a long time, mostly on the spl side. Although they now have a few sound quality based designs that haven't been produced yet.

Personally, I have Infinity Reference speakers in the door as a gift (60w RMS) and the sub I chose is a 500w RMS. I'm not powering the rear or dash, just the door and sub so the 4 channel I'm looking at can also go into 2, 3, or 4. For that much power that I need I think it's better in my position.

By entry level subs, I mean towards the $100 range and NOT a kicker, pyle or boss.

Some decent entry level brands are Alpine SWS, American Bass, CT Sounds, Dayton, Image Dynamics, Infinity 100.9w, JL Audio, RE Audio, Rockford Fosgate, Soundqubed, Sundown.

bazooka bass tube

Looking over the specs, it's an 8" speaker in a 0.46 ft^3 ported enclosure with a 250W class D amp. That should work very well in this car. You can adjust the crossover and the levels to get it to match your existing speakers.


I'm eventually going to build a system using these exact same speakers but in smaller sealed enclosure. IMO, this is a very good match.

I appreciate your comments. I like accurate bass, and figured an 8" would probably be a good match. It would be nice to have DSP, but i did not want to invest the $$ and time in an overly complicated system. I really want the OEM Audio system, but...

The PnP aspect and positive testimonials of the OEM Audio + system is compelling. However, at a price point of $1,500 I have to audition first. I purchased my Home Theater speakers on line for big bank. The difference? Ascend Acoustics provides a 30 day audition. You just pay return shipping if you find the sound unsatisfactory.

The May 1 Boxerfest is one of the largest Subaru events on the East Coast, but it looks like OEM Audio won't be there again this year. They should have a demo vehicle on hand. :(

I wouldn't add Kicker on that list. Remember they do make Solo-Baric.

Ah I see. Dam 500w. That's a lot.

That JL would sound nice. Anything would sound nice if adjustable.

That oem+ would sound great but that price. For the same time it takes to install that is pretty the same time it would take to install a typical amp/sub.

OEM+ sounds as good as my home theatre system (klipsch thx ultra 2). That's saying something. My home theatre is worth about half the cost of my car!

I think OEM+ is great value!

Accurate bass can't be had for under $200 for the sub/box/amp combined, unless you don't listen loud at all. It takes $150 just to get a decently low distortion subwoofer than can reach moderate volume, without the box and amp.

Well we are not talking about audiophile quality here folks.
The point of the thread is the best bang for the buck. The mass average person would be more than happy for an all in one under $200 set up.

I'll still chose my own set up over OEM+ for that price range.

How about a Bazooka basstube? I'm using the simple, 8" 50w powered one, and it's pretty sufficient at adding to the lower frequencies. Enough to rattle the rear mirror to the point you can hear it rattling. lol

Those are great. They where the first in the game with small enclosure back in the 90s. They where pricey back in the day. Don't know how much the go for now.

The one I got, the BTA850FH, ranges from 100 to 150 bucks. I essentially got it for free since I had some company points. haha.

Not for the basshead, but for someone who will occasionally remove it for trunk space, and for something that is PnP, it's a great choice. Now, I still have to have my bass two spots from maxed out, and the gain on the tube itself set to about 60%, but it's sufficient bass for my needs. I've had a 10" Type R in a vented box in my previous car, and I don't think the FR-S requires all that.

Exactly. A 100w system will fill up the cabin with much needed low end bass. No one is going to hear you coming from blocks away but at highway speeds it would get you in the groove to your favorite jam.

It's surprising what 100 watts can do. 200 watts is only 3dB louder. Traditionally this is known as the minimum volume (SPL) increase that is discernable. It would take 400 watts before you get another 3dB.

However there is one thing more important than volume (SPL) that power can provide. Accuracy... As a speaker is pushed forward, there must be power to pull it back again. If the amp is low on power, the inertia of the speaker will carry the cone forward and the amp is unable to pull it back in time to create a coherent wave. This introduces intermodular distortion. The wave created by the speaker moving forward interacts with the wave of the amp trying to pull the speaker back. This creates inaccuracies in the frequency response and distorts the sound.

tl;dr
Buy a powerful amp to give accurate sound. It's not about volume. It's about accuracy of sound reproduction. You should match the amp to the speaker's maximum power handling if you want accurate sound. If you underpower, your sound will be distorted.

Intermodulation distortion is caused when a speaker is playing two different frequencies at one time. It is not caused by running an amplifier without enough power. As long as you don't run the amp into clipping, underpowering a speaker can not cause distortion.

Another way to think about this. If underpowering a speaker without clipping the amp caused distortion, then your speakers would distort more and more as you turned down the volume.

Just throwing in 2c, I have a jl 10 wxv2, @175w. It's not loud per say, but it's plenty accurate, and pretty low as cost goes