Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community - FT86CLUB

Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community - FT86CLUB (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/index.php)
-   Wheels | Tires | Spacers | Hub -- Sponsored by The Tire Rack (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=24)
-   -   Please help asap (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=103702)

Carnewbee 03-29-2016 11:06 PM

Please help asap
 
Just got 18x9 +38 wheels and was advised 235 front and 245 back. I'm on 1inch lowering springs. Will these fit or they going to poke like a bitch unless I get coil overs camber bolts and control arms?

churchx 03-30-2016 12:33 AM

Not sure who advised that, but on these cars instead of staggered setup i'd prefer square same sized tire setup to not fsck up handling and keep ability to rotate tires.

swarb 03-30-2016 02:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by khantran04 (Post 2602777)
hmm sorry not much experience here but I'm doing the same thing you're doing. except I'm getting rohana rc10. 19x8.5 front and 19x9.5 rear. rohana recommend same setup as yours for tire. I think it makes a lot of sense. since you're RWD it'd help with traction and if you do burn outs xD more tire to go. overall it helps performance, but @churchx got a point you won't really be able to rotate but performance or convienent :)

about the poke the forum has a wheel/offset/camber/lowering adjustment calculator, that's what I use to configure my new wheels. check the offset enough have it just behind the fender line for a good flush look without having it eat rim or fender :D

www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25177



Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk

Wrong. Square setup is best for this car unless you are building the car for drag strip only. If you cared about performance, you wouldn't get 19 inch wheels.

245/35 or 235/40 or 255/35 are your choices. 245/35 is the best all around for the 18x9 wheels.

churchx 03-30-2016 04:42 AM

khantran04: define performance for you then. After all, even guys going to track or ones developing suspension, advise square setup. And even forced induction/burnouts is not much of reason to put different tires on car ends. If you have forced induction and want more grip, simply put wider but both of same wider width on front and rear. Suspension of our cars was engineered around square setup, electronic nannies like traction control and ABS also expect that and may misbehave or less efficient when it's not. Reasoning that some more upscale cars may have staggered width setup doesn't work, as they simply are engineered to have it that way .. NOT like ours. From practical standpoint it also is good to have staggered wheels & tires setup, as it's easier to find set of same wheels, it's easier to eg. buy 5th wheel for spare if you damage one, without need to buy two or finding available of two different sizes depending if damaged was in front or rear, and as i mentioned above, you can simply rotate front-rear to even out wear and get more mileage from one set of tires. Tire choice for staggered setup often is much more limited, as it may not come in sizes as needed for one of ends. My friend has MR2, that was engineered to have staggered setup. He mostly has only negative comments on that, due all the limitations/extra inconveniences it brings. He'd be more happy to have normal common square setup, if his car wouldn't need staggered one. In general, for this platform most do staggered setup only when they do that for looks reasons (to me it looks more like posing, instead of being cool though), as they try to put very widest ones they can, and it's possible to put wider in one end. Everybody is free to do whatever he wish to his car and money .. but please, don't reason staggered setup with "to improve handling or for more performance". It will not improve, rather will make worse handling/worse performance/less safe/with more issues/more expensive/less practical/limit tire & wheel choice.

go_a_way1 03-30-2016 09:15 AM

Tire compound is far more important the width. I am sure my 225`s will pull more G`s on the skid pad then your 255's, not to mention significantly lighter. just some food for thought.

Ashikabi 03-30-2016 09:21 AM

Churchx is right guys. Seems like you already have the wheels so use one of Swarbs suggestions but get all the same size. The wheel company didn't engineer anything for this car so they probably don't know enough about it to make a sound recommendation. The difference between 235 and 245 is less than your pinky finger anyways. Not exactly a huge gain in performance. For burnouts it won't make the tires last longer either because the tire isn't thicker just wider, it'll be used up just as fast as a skinny tire

KendallH 03-30-2016 09:56 AM

You can easily fit 255/35s on 18x9 and they will look perfect with no stretch.

jasonojordan 03-30-2016 10:05 AM

I get what people are saying with the square setup but im running 265 on the back of mine and 245 on the front and have not had a single issue handling wise. Car handled the same with the 265 on the rear as when I had 245s on the read. Maybe im just not pushing the car hard enough?

Ashikabi 03-30-2016 10:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jasonojordan (Post 2602991)
I get what people are saying with the square setup but im running 265 on the back of mine and 245 on the front and have not had a single issue handling wise. Car handled the same with the 265 on the rear as when I had 245s on the read. Maybe im just not pushing the car hard enough?

This is likely. A lot of people will say:oh this will ruin the handling, or that is trash. But unless you are really attuned to how your car feels or you are at the track all the time you won't notice a difference. You get this a lot with heavy(ie cheap) wheels and aero/body kits. Tires it just comes down to convenience for rotating. If you don't drive hard enough to benefit from the staggered setup(assuming you benefited) then why do it to start with?(no pros but several convenience cons)

jasonojordan 03-30-2016 10:35 AM

I guess my main reason for going wider in the rear was better traction for when I end up going FI

go_a_way1 03-30-2016 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jasonojordan (Post 2603013)
I guess my main reason for going wider in the rear was better traction for when I end up going FI

Again compound is far more important then width. Now if your going for 400+ WHP then yeah sure you want to run a good compound that is also wide

jasonojordan 03-30-2016 11:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by go_a_way1 (Post 2603016)
Again compound is far more important then width. Now if your going for 400+ WHP then yeah sure you want to run a good compound that is also wide

for sure I get that. I have continental DW so compound is pretty solid tires. Great for all applications above 40degs. Under 40degs you have terrible traction.

go_a_way1 03-30-2016 11:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jasonojordan (Post 2603050)
for sure I get that. I have continental DW so compound is pretty solid tires. Great for all applications above 40degs. Under 40degs you have terrible traction.

haha cant win them all. If my summer tires see -9C they crack and are ruined, if they see rain I am lucky to get to work :lol: Because racecar

Also a lot of people think they need max grip tires but forget that at that point you are overloading the stock suspension. You need to increase your spring rate and get damper to match. Its a fine balance between aero (if you have any) Tire grip and spring rates for max performance. Most people probably wont ever reach that point though.

Ashikabi 03-30-2016 11:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by go_a_way1 (Post 2603058)
haha cant win them all. If my summer tires see -9C they crack and are ruined, if they see rain I am lucky to get to work :lol: Because racecar

Also a lot of people think they need max grip tires but forget that at that point you are overloading the stock suspension. You need to increase your spring rate and get damper to match. Its a fine balance between aero (if you have any) Tire grip and spring rates for max performance. Most people probably wont ever reach that point though.

Speaking of springs. Didn't you get 8,9k? What brand were those and why did you choose then over the competition other than the future upgrade?

jasonojordan 03-30-2016 11:15 AM

Yea I have ISC coils on my car already so got that handled straight away. Not going the power then handling route like I did with my WRX that was a disaster. Anyway back on topic!

go_a_way1 03-30-2016 11:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ashikabi (Post 2603068)
Speaking of springs. Didn't you get 8,9k? What brand were those and why did you choose then over the competition other than the future upgrade?

I have swift springs (they make custom rates from 4k to 24k) on my coilovers (fortune auto) I went with 7k front and 8k rear for more balanced car. Most people forget to take motion ratios into account when picking spring rates. A 7kg/mm front 7kg/mm rear will be stiffer in the front then the rear on our cars.
The reason I went so stiff is I will be running an aggressive alignment on competition tires. Had I wanted a more DD car I would have gone with a 5k 6k or a 6k 6k spring rate

Edit: yeah to stay on topic any more questions pm me :D haha!

Ashikabi 03-30-2016 11:26 AM

No on topic. You are out of team derail if you keep this up

MisterSheep 03-30-2016 12:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Carnewbee (Post 2602647)
Just got 18x9 +38 wheels and was advised 235 front and 245 back. I'm on 1inch lowering springs. Will these fit or they going to poke like a bitch unless I get coil overs camber bolts and control arms?

You'll be much happier with 245/35/18 or.. 255/35/18, but whatever you do... go squared! I have 255's on a 9.5in wide wheel and it's a little of a stretch.

Toyarzee 03-30-2016 01:00 PM

+1 on going with a squared setup on this car.

And back to original question, about -2* camber will fix most of the poke and won't be too bad. You'll get that naturally in the rear from a 1" drop, and camber bolts should be sufficient to get close enough in the front. Coilovers not necessary.

Enjoy your new wheels!

Leonardo 03-30-2016 01:08 PM

First of all... Post a few pics of the wheels please!

Secondly, camber bolts, should be in a different category than coilovers and other suspension parts. You can get them for around $35. Cheap coilovers are still hundreds. Get some camber bolts.

Additionally, I would suggest 245/35/18 all around. Get tires that fit your driving style.

churchx 03-30-2016 02:27 PM

Ashikabi: while many may see problems with shifted grip balance only on track and almost none on good tarmac in warm countries, many may see them in daily driving too .. if they live in countries with cold winter weather, when grip is very limited on snow/ice. On winter track .. or unplown/frozen public roads too, i prefer rather controling oversteer then understeer (though this is possible too, with mass transfer via brakes and accelerator liftoff and of course with lower entry speed), if car tends to push front out too much. I guess, it may be seen during heavy rain, near to aquaplaning speeds, aswell. And enthusiastic "canyon runs" are not that far from mild track use. Yes, grip can be reduced on back and added in front with some suspension upgrades/tuning .. but why introduce something that needs to be fixed with more investments in first place? Hence i won't agree that it won't matter and most drivers won't feel difference if daily driving only. Some won't .. but if they won't use this car as it was designed for, for bringing driving fun in curvy roads, it's just wasted potential of it.

Ashikabi 03-30-2016 02:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by churchx (Post 2603386)
Ashikabi: while many may see problems with shifted grip balance only on track and almost none on good tarmac in warm countries, many may see them in daily driving too .. if they live in countries with cold winter weather, when grip is very limited on snow/ice. On winter track .. or unplown/frozen public roads too, i prefer rather controling oversteer then understeer (though this is possible too, with mass transfer via brakes and accelerator liftoff and of course with lower entry speed), if car tends to push front out too much. I guess, it may be seen during heavy rain, near to aquaplaning speeds, aswell. And enthusiastic "canyon runs" are not that far from mild track use. Yes, grip can be reduced on back and added in front with some suspension upgrades/tuning .. but why introduce something that needs to be fixed with more investments in first place? Hence i won't agree that it won't matter and most drivers won't feel difference if daily driving only. Some won't .. but if they won't use this car as it was designed for, for bringing driving fun in curvy roads, it's just wasted potential of it.

How many people use this car to it's potential? Not many I expect. Now ice never used a staggered setup nor have I been in the mod game that long but I do know that everyone says heavy 18" wheels will make the car handle like trash. When I went from stock to heavy 18s I noticed 0 difference. Now I don't have twisty roads to drive on to push the limits but for DD... There was no difference. So I guess this experience has jaded me to many people's proclamations on how much handling is affected by things. Sure it's degraded or improved by XYZ but in such a small amount that it's not usually noticeable


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:01 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2026, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.3.0 (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2026 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.


Garage vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.