PCV Valve Replacement with STI Valve
 

I just installed the SPD kit on my car and I picked up a STI PCV Valve since a lot of people were recommending replacing it since the stock one is plastic. However where I would assume the PCV Valve is installed is right behind the intake manifold where the passenger side hose is going to from the intake manifold, right? Mine is metal (maybe the inside piece is plastic?)
So my question is am I looking at the right thing to replace? If so did you just use a socket with an angler to replace it, because it is kind of a pain where it sits right now?
I'm sorry if this isn't in the right section. I figured it would be with forced induction.
I've tried to google it but all I come up with is replacing the small plastic elbow, but that was hollow and replace with a straight metal tube during installation.

Delete it and install a catchcan.

I'm planing on installing a catch can in the summer, just holding off a little to recoup a little bit of funds

I know how you feel but catch can and oilcooler is a must. The engine will take a beating even if it's a 7psi basemap tune with DD car.

I had oil leaks from anywhere the damn pressure could get out during WOT. Pcv delete, catchcan fixed it real fast.

The JRSC instruction manual has instructions for installing it. That would be a good place to start. It has specific placement. I would go into why placement is important but I don't feel like looking through the KWSC thread for where it's mentioned. Hope that helps.

Thanks for that, they installed a one way check one the hose I was thinking about, so I'll just swap the valve at the end of it. Thank you!

Ya, I'll probably order the dual radiums next week and just install the valve in the middle of the line temporarily until they come in

You don't replace the stock one because it is plastic, you replace it because it was never meant to see boost, so it opens up(under even 1psi from my testing) and lets boost into the crank case (bad)

A 19mm deep socket and a medium extension will get the old one out (it will be tight, but comes out) Screw the new STI one in by hand and then tighten down with the socket/ratchet.

Yea idk who said the stock PCV is plastic; it is very much metal. I put in the one from the FA20F WRX.

Any reason they say to use the STI one? Is it better? Didn't even realize those were compatible.

Shouldn't be much difference. WRX/STI, both were made to see boost, so they both work for the application.

its definitely metal. i drilled out the check valve in mine so it was wide open for my atmospheric vent catch can.

BINGO

Yep. Blow by creates presure in the case. If the valve is shut over boost then the crankcase can't let the presure out. The front case vent isn't enough.

Put a cap plug on your intake plenum and vent to atmosphere. a filter popped on the barb is better than back presure. And BOOM!

When I boosted my Busa, I left my crackcase vent wide open. Not worth it not to.

Ya, I'm not sure were I heard that it was plastic. Thanks for the replies guys.

I run a VTA can and just replaced the valve with a hose fitting of the correct threads, boom done.

I did it just for simplicity, one less thing to fail.

We did the same thing with both our race cars.

Most factory turbo cars get around this by having the PCV vent before the compressor inlet so the valve never sees boost, only atmospheric pressure or vacuum. Many people still install catch cans to avoid sucking oil into the turbo and ultimately coating the intercooler with oil. It's possible to install a catch can that does not vent to atmosphere though. That's what I did on my MR2.
-Matt

The problem is not the material of the valve, plastic, metal, solid gold. The problem is the circuit was never intended to see positive pressure. Its not rocket science but it needs to be rearranged for boost.

Drilled out stock piece, no plastic

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...psqiwmnfj0.png

Plunger is metal, sticks to a magnet just fine

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...psr1h0q68i.png

If people are paying for a "metal upgrade" what can I sell this High Flow Fully Ported valve for?

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...psjmyc7isz.jpg

Where is this pcv located?

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Do I retain the stock one of I have a boomba valve. I'm running with a radium dual catch can set up


The passenger side hose on the intake manifold cover, follow it down and on the block is the factory PCV.

Yup you are good with the boomba valve.

So leave the stock valve in place and run the Boomba inline with it?


Also thanks!

Yes

I bought the STI PCV valve for the EJ PN 11810AA040 and the spout was much smaller than the hose. PN 11910AA141 for the FA in the WRX has a proportionally fatter spout based on pics. Can anyone confirm the part numbers?

Got a few private messages about this. Confirming part number 11810AA141 fit when I installed it.

should this the right part#? 11810AA131

https://www.blingstrom.com/diy-proje...0the%20vehicle.

So we should get the FA - 11810AA141 and not the EJ 11810AA040, am I correct?

Thanks!

You guys should just consider just modifying the PCV system so it's the same as on a WRX/STi. VTA is going to create unwanted crankcase pressure vs vacuum. I definitely recommend managing the blow-by with a can or AOS to scrub clean before going back into the engine. Many more benefits to running a closed loop system.

Nice thing about the FA is the internal baffling is pretty good. The venting capacity could be better (and changing some parts can help that), but it spews WAY less than an EJ engine!

So which part number should I be buying?

11810AA141

I got this installed

Thanks, yes I already installed it as well.