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Nasa TT/TD disccussions
Need help with classing? Want to discuss parts specific to TT/PT? Is it related to the twins?
This is your thread. |
Crap - Mike beat me to it....
Thanks for getting this started. |
Figure I'll throw this out there for people who haven't read the 2016 rules.
NASA has increased the minimum competition weight (car + driver, measured immediately after you come off track) again for 2016. Year -- Comp Weight 2014 - 2775 lbs. 2015 - 2885 lbs. 2016 - 2940 lbs. So, if you are competing in TTD-B classes you will need to take points if your car with you in it is lighter than 2940 lbs (or add ballast). While I think these weight increases were unnecessary, these are the rules. That said, I'm looking forward to competing in TT4 next year (planned weight/power ratio of 12.0whp/1lbs) when they introduce the new class. I'm prepping for it this year and will most likely end up running in TTB, even though I'll probably be quite under powered. |
When will NASA TT come to PNW? :wub:
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I really don't think dyno reclass is the way to go with this car, especially for TTD. Best build in my opinion is: 5pt exhaust (header/fp/catback) 5pt decent coilover (like KW V2 or something) 6pt 225 Hoosier R7 2pt BBK or diffuser maybe 1pt Clutch type LSD 0pt E85 tune and lots of bushings |
There's more to dyno reclassing than peak horsepower.
If you're serious about competing, schedule a consult with me, and I can show you the light. |
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YAYYYYYYY :)
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I, for one, would like to see this thread succeed where the other one failed.
My name is Chase and I am really hoping to go through the NASA HPDE licensing program this year and hopefully race in TTD. I have done quite a lot of reading with regards to classing rules so I am really excited about see how everything turns out! I look forward to learning and sharing in this thread! |
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I was able to get my car (not including me) down to around 2600lbs while leaving the interior completely stock. My lightweight mods include: Removing trunk junk - about 40lbs. Lighter wheels (Enkei RPF-1) - about 16lbs Essex Sprint BBK - about 20lbs. Driveshaft Shop Carbon Fiber DS - around 13lbs. ACT Pro-lite Clutch and flywheel - around 12 lbs. Shorai 5lbs. battery - around 20lbs. So that's about 120lbs right there from the car and you can get another 20 pretty easily by moving to a lighter cat back from the stock one. When you want to remove even more than that, take a look at @Anthony build thread: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42284 |
My name is Faber - 2013 BRZ Limited - NASA Central.
Car currently has too many points, would be in TTC.... debating how much money or time I want to spend to make it back to TTD before this season. This will be my first NASA season. Plans for Spring: 4.56 Final Drive swap Maybe 4 Point Roll bar w/ seat/harness/hans Maybe 17x8 w/ R Comps Current Parts Combo: (Finish while I am not at work) |
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So, 2900 - 70lbs of ballast - 215 for driver and gear = 2615lbs for the car at around 1/2 a tank of gas. You can see in my videos that I still have the full stock interior (well, I guess you can't see the back, but its all there too). [ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IBAxIFB4Gww"]Fastest Lap @ East Coast Championships - 2:12.605 - YouTube[/ame] |
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This year will be very different though and I may need ballast to hit my power to weight limit for TT3. |
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Mine was weighed at two different tracks with two different organizers at 2610 with similiar mods |
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I'll be competing in NASA Central TT3 (pending new dyno classing) |
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Unless you are on a very low speed track, I think you will find that the Final Drive will make zero difference. The exception to that is if you are constantly finding yourself in between gears or feel that the gearing is too tall but I think the cost will be far more than the benefit. |
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I spend way to much time in the 6500-7000rpm range in 3rd at the two tracks I use the most. Hoping the FD will make 4th more inviting. If I can find my self more comfortable in 4th thru most corners it will cut out a lot of shifting. |
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The new HP rules for TT3 look to have distinct advantages for some platforms. I know my buddy is dropping from TT2 to TT3 in his Civic cause of them, he is very excited. |
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Remove spare tire/tools/manual, lightweight pulleys, rear seat delete, inlet tube & filter swap w/ noise tube delete, aluminum driveshaft (won't do CF, blew 2 on my Vette), lightweight battery, Perrin OP, HKS FP and Spec-L catback, remove rear bumper beam. Can still replace the front beam with Beatrush, AP Sprint, HKS Header, and SPEC flywheel/clutch and shed an estimated 42.4lbs more to bring it down to 2,601. Remember that's on a full tank of gas (@6.3lbs/gal). Leave out 4gal and you're below 2,580. YMMV. :) @Anthony has put together an exceptional thread on component weights here. Pick and choose what you're willing to lose and what your competition ruleset allows. |
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Hi Everyone, quick question as I am getting ready for my first event with NASA. Still trying to figure out the points thing. Have been seeing many different "views" when it comes to OEM Spoilers.
I have a BRZ Limited, which comes with the spoiler from the factory). Does this mean the spoiler is BTM, or since the BRZ Premium model does not have a spoiler, does that mean my limited automatically takes the +4 for the OEM Spoiler. |
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My undertanding was getting hit with 4 points for it. I understood BTM, but had been seeing lots of posts in regards to BTM being linked to the specific model vs the car: Limited vs Premium, SE vs none SE, and all sorts of comparisons. I am at that point where I will end up running TTC because I don't want to deal with pulling body parts off my car for a couple events per year, so wanting to make sure that everything is 100% before ordering stickers. |
Yes, you would take 4 points for the spoiler. BTM is always linked to the base trim model with no options (so premium for the BRZ, which does not come with a spoiler). I think there are a few special cases with other cars with major upgrade packages, like the Mustang Boss302, where they are classed separately from the base mustang, but for our cars there is no special classing of for the different trim levels.
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Where did you find the base class for our cars? The classifier spreadsheet doesn't list that and the 'base class' field is only a dropdown, not referenced from anywhere else. *EDIT* Nevermind, found it in the rules. Thought it was in their 'classifier program' like they said on the website. :bonk: |
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Your best bet is probably TTC, it'll give you plenty of wiggle room too. With 0 suspension mods, on 200tw Direzza's and just due to my minor street mods (OP-Back exhaust, pulleys, slightly less weight)... I fall about 3 points from TTC. That said, the car is already competitive with TTC times so putting the extra 23 allowable points into suspension/tires would make it a formidable competitor. |
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Not sure if the brz can compete with an S2k w/ aero. |
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Came to that conclusion about 30 seconds in. :lol: |
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They aren't worth the points, that's the problem. I never built anything to TT spec (or really any spec for that matter) so backtracking to add up points shows how silly a lot of it is. I'm in the same boat as you on the intake. Perrin silicone inlet to get rid of the noise tube and the HKS snorkel. Neither make any appreciable competitive difference, but they fall into the category that includes doing a true cold air intake because non-BTM. :( No, definitely not. @Aero :) It's all in how you build the car though. Ideally, the best way to hedge your is you have to pick only 1 race series and build/spec your car to their rules eeking out every points advantage you can. Don't do anything extra or 'wasteful'. Ie, rather than Z2's, pulleys, and the snorkel, those points would have been better spent knocking a set of R888's or RE71's down to +2. |
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Can you give me a quick TL;DR vs TTC/TTD? I'll read the full post later when I'm at a computer... |
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