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Hello! I think I have a problem...
Album for your enjoyment: https://imgur.com/a/YCCUl I just used this awesome method to install the springs, but I've run into a problem. I was checking the tightness of each shock top using both the pass-through wrench and the allen key. 3/4 four corners were tight and immobile, which is good. However, when I got to the rear left, I noticed that the nut spins freely while the shaft from the shock stays still. So, in summary: 3/4 corners, nut spins with shaft, when nut is tightened with shaft held steady with allen key = no movement 1/4 corners, nut spins FREE of shaft, when nut is tightened with shaft held steady = nut continues to move freely Weirdly, it's also completely asymptomatic. I am super sensitive to weird noises, especially when they weren't there before. Nothing new at all. I've tried to maniacally screw down and unscrew the nut as well, but the nut does not move vertically at all with my attempts in BOTH directions. Have I stripped the nut, or worse, the shock shaft? I'm getting an impact driver adapter in the mail in a couple days, so hopefully I can sputter it off with that... |
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The rear left is pictured here. The nut spins freely when the car is jacked up by the rear left control arm (I can spin it with my fingers). It is more difficult to spin with the car jacked up (more resistance to turning with ratchet). It does not move up or down with clockwise or counterclockwise turns. It spins independent of the hex center shaft. I tried using an impact wrench in every position with no luck. https://i.imgur.com/KkUDcby.jpg This is the rear right nut. It is tight. Notice the basically identical thread engagement (9 threads on both left and right sides). https://i.imgur.com/hA0fkZL.jpg Any ideas? I’ve been up to 120mph with this and no problems. The car does not exhibit any strange clunks or noises. What gives?! |
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I've never thought I could do struts before. Looks like we'll find out. Your instructions (along with the article to which you linked) inspired me. Thank you. |
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LCA = lower control arms. Corner balance (via Google) = the process of shifting the weight carried by each wheel to approach optimal values. Although some weight can be shifted between wheels by physically relocating parts of the car, the corner balance process is focused on shifting weight by adjusting the suspension spring height. |
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Man, I'm really pushing my seventh set of tires now. Costco begins their Michelin sale next month and I need a new set of PSS's BAD. I actually put up a youtube video of me hydroplaning on I-65 and the SUV in front of me spinning out at 75 MPH. [ame="<div style="display: none;" id="ame_noshow_post_1535722181_2"> <a href="" title="YouTube" target="_blank">YouTube</a> </div> <div style="display: inline;" id="ame_doshow_post_1535722181_2"> <iframe width="640" height="410" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/b8lnmtqB56I?start=" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> </div>"]<div style="display: none;" id="ame_noshow_post_1535722181_3"> <a href="" title="YouTube" target="_blank">YouTube</a> </div> <div style="display: inline;" id="ame_doshow_post_1535722181_3"> <iframe width="640" height="410" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/b8lnmtqB56I?start=" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> </div>[/ame] You can see I need new rainx too. |
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I just came here to report that I followed this DIY with the RCE yellow springs. I don't have the "Thank you" button yet, so please accept this message as my thank you.
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I just replaced the right rear shock and didn't have to compress the spring at all. I just removed the whole strut assembly and held the allen screw while removing the nut. There was no spring tension at all. Then transferred the spring, bump stop and cover to the new shock and remounted it. If you don't need to compress the spring to mount it then why would you have to compress it to dismount it?
*******IMPORTANT POINT******** I already had lowering springs. If you have OEM springs USE A SPRING COMPRESSOR. |
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